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Rex K0KP <rex@...> updated folder //Alignment Procedures The following items have been updated in the Files area of the [email protected] group. //N0EDS FT301 Restore.jpeg By: Rex K0KP <rex@...>

Your results may vary, hi. Let me know if this found it’s way to you. Big problem with these is they go microphonic because of the VFO. I took a few of these apart in the beginning and kept finding bit of plastic rolling round in the VFO. Well apparently they had a micro phonic problem and just glued a piece of plastic in place. Worked for the first 50 years? I think that is covered in Elcon manual about reversing the VFO. If you are going to bring one of these back there are some things you really need to do. Mirophonic, if your not familiar with the term is an old one goes back to hi-fi gear. Means when you tap it you get a boing, sorta echo? Anyway if you take the cover off the VFO and tap on it it will probably make some interesting noises on receive. Then look for the piece of plastic that has probably fallen down into the cheese grader and hope someone didn’t use a pair of pliers to turn the VFO. At any rate dig it out and bridge all the components in the VFO. I use copper braid on the big gaps. One problem solved. Get rid of the divider on the back of the pre-mix board. That was a bandaid they tried and it causes the radio to not track between tx/rx minutely. Just enough that it appears the other person is of freq. just a bit. Hence, “crab walking”. Very important to clean everything before starting. I really do wash them with soap and water as I did Collins and even TV’s back in the day. Water doesn’t hurt electronics components. Electricity hurts electronic components, if they are wet. This time of year not much sun so set in front of wood burner for a couple of days. I normally hose out all wafer switches an front panel switches at this time with fu-fu juice. I try to do it while still wet to displace the water. Fu-fu juice. Back in the day they called it tuner wash. But since TV’s don’t have tuners anymore it called contact cleaner. THEY ARE NOT ALL THE SAME! Use non silicon fortified cleaner! It only collects dust. De-oxit is aggressive but works. Hope this helps and found it to where it is supposed to go? Back to work here. Cheers Dave

Begin forwarded message: From: n0eds@... Subject: 301 Date: February 21, 2025 at 11:46:19 AM PST To: 94fph@...

Begin forwarded message: From: n0eds@... Subject: 301 stuff Date: February 21, 2025 at 11:54:29 AM PST To: g4fph@... I found these. There is more but am busy. Check the Elcon library for making the VFO turn in the right direction. Won’t work on analog model. Get rid of the scabbed on divider on the back of the pre mix unit PB-1434. That will fix crab walk problem. Dave

I can send pics of VFO strapping if needed. Appears not to be in VFO manual from Elcon.

For many years' now, I've had one of the early 'miniVNA' units from Mini Radio Solutions sat on the shelf. It doesn't get much use these days, as it's functionality is bettered in most respects by a nanoVNA from China that I also have. The oscillator in the miniVNA is a DDS-type, using the 14-bit, AD9951 IC by Analog Devices. Output from the 'DUT' (Device Under Test) BNC is a high-quality sinusoidal wave at exactly the right level to apply to the FT-301 external VFO input:-) I hacked together a quick programme for the PC (using the ancient BBC Basic for Windows language) to allow entry of data for band, stepping of the (RF) frequency and trimming of the DDS reference number. The programme does the necessary maths and formatting and sends the required data (simple ASCII text strings) to the miniVNA to get it to output frequencies in the 5 - 5.5 MHz range. While the stability of the internal VFO of the FT-301D I have on the bench is excellent, now I have a 'digital' alternative. Ironically, the reference crystal for the DDS in the miniVNA seems to drift a little until it's been powered up for an hour, or so. In fairness, this drift is not an issue when using it for what it was intended for. It would be a straightforward job to drive the miniVNA from an suitably programmed Arduino, with some buttons, display and shaft encoder and dispense with the PC altogether. One day, I just might...! Regards, Mark, G4FPH.

Does anyone have or know of a substitute for the 10 watt amp finals ?? the original part number is a s10-12 Rober KH2BR

I dont know how to send a private message on here, so this is the only way. Dave How much do you want for the 600HZ cw filter?? I discovered that the SSB filter will not cut it in CW mode. Or Do you know how to force the filter I have to increase its band pass ?? Bob KH2BR

When I switch from CW mode to USB, The t/r relay momentarily energizes and releases and the relay on the blanking unit energizes and de-energizes. When I switch from AM to CW it seems like the t/r relay energizes and does not release but I can receive ok. when I switch back to AM, the relay de-energizes. Is this normal operation or what should I look for. FT301D

I have installed in my radio a 250HZ cw filter, 8999.3 khz does anyone have a 500HZ filter they would like to sell or trade for the 250 hz filter I have?? Robert KH2BR

I am looking for a analog ft301s face plate and a PB 1433 RF board Thanks, Robert KH2BR

Hi again, I'd pretty much finished restoring my FT-301 analog rig, but have noticed that the dial has three spots in every revolution where it catches just a bit. Right around 14, 47 and 80 kHz positions (if I'm turning the dial slowly) it'll feel like the mechanism has just fallen into a little hole. Moving it beyond takes just a bit more pressure. If I want to (for example) dial in 14.212 (just below or above one of these spots) the mechanism will pull over to .214. Other than this, the mechanism is very smooth, no grinding or roughness at all. This doesn't really sound like a congealed-grease problem to me, rather perhaps an issue with a mis-aligned or damaged gear. I'm considering removing the gear mechanism from the radio, but it seems rather complicated to get it all out. i haven't seen anyone's comments on how best to do this, despite quite a bit of searching. For example, do I need to completely remove the front panel ? From a look inside it does seem to be necessary, but if there are any shortcuts I'd really appreciate hearing about it before I tear the radio completely apart! Joel, VE6EI

Well, after buying TIL306's and TIL308's and replacing them, now I have an FT301D that doesn't change frequency. Just sits on the low end of whatever band it's switched to. (3.500, 7,000, etc.). Anyone have any ideas? This radio is cosmetically great, and did receive very well; the only problem was the leftmost digit wouldn't display 2's, 1's only and the tenths of Khz digit (rightmost) had some segments out. I never should have worked on this over Halloween !!! Help. Anyone?

Can anybody help me respond to questions? Please. Dave -- Dave Bohlen

Hi to all in the group! I have started to repair an FT-301 that I acquired years ago. Must say I am mightily impressed with how Yaesu built these. Just love the plug-in card system - must surely be a candidate for the easiest radio to get into and fix ever made. So far, I have it working on receive - and sounding nice. On transmit, and without the booster plugged in on the rear panel, it produces up to 20 W of RF in SSB, but only a disappointing 1 W of RF in CW / FSK / AM. Sadly, the booster has suffered some mechanical damage in that the 'Jones' plug has taken a bash and the paxolin on the rear that retains the pins now doesn't. Might end up having to replace the whole plug. A couple of questions, if I may: Q1. Should the impedance of the companion hand microphone be 50 kOhm, or 500 Ohm? I thought I had read somewhere that, like the FT-101 up until the E/F, the microphone should be a Hi-Z type. I have both types here, but the 50 kOhm unit does not drive the '301 TX at all, whereas the 500 Ohm one does with gusto. Q2. The front panel meter on mine is open circuit. The circuit shows it as a 200 uA FSD unit. Does anyone have experience of taking one apart and making a fix, or am I looking at finding a (unobtanium) replacement? Regards, Mark, G4FPH.

Hello everybody, My FT301 has an HF output of 200W on all bands... I suppose that is not normal. When i reduce the drive (at half on the pot) the power goes down to 100W Is there an alignment to do? I didn't see anything about this in the manual. Thanks for your help an apologise me for my english... Best 73

I have always been curious as to what the final improvements that Yaesu made to the 301AD that justified a new designation. Or maybe, they were just using it as a marketing ploy to increase sales? Who knows. I would love to hear from someone that was at Yaesu that designed/worked on these radios at that time. Anyways, I am not that curious as to crawl through schematics for differences, but I did run across one. - Addtional caps around one of the voltage regulators - perhaps for stability (reliability? noise?) were added. I posted in an album. None of my other 301's have these differences. The ceramic looks to be 0.047 and the electrolytic looks to be 100 uF (per the schematic), I didn't want to disturb it just to read the value (on the backside). I am considering doing this mod to my other 301's it seems like it might be a good thing to do. Maybe if others discover more differences, they can post them.