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Re: RF Tracking - adjusting T1, 2, 3

 

Yes Joel….I did it ?and found some improvement, but the rig I was working on had had a hard life.
顿补惫别….骋4顿础齿.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2022 at 02:37, Joel Weder <jweder@...> wrote:
Has anyone actually done this part of the FT-301 alignment? On 4.0 MHz you adjust T2 & T3 for maximum output power. Then adjust T1 for best Rx sensitivity. Problem is that all three of these in the "Tune" or preselector section are seriously "gooped" in place. I could remove the hardened resinous material, follow the procedure, then use something to lock them in place again. But is it worth it??

This radio is putting out about 82-85 watts on 4.0 MHz, and sensitivity is pretty good. Maybe not worth it, just to do a "complete" alignment...?

Joel, VE6EI

RF Tracking - adjusting T1, 2, 3

 

Has anyone actually done this part of the FT-301 alignment? On 4.0 MHz you adjust T2 & T3 for maximum output power. Then adjust T1 for best Rx sensitivity. Problem is that all three of these in the "Tune" or preselector section are seriously "gooped" in place. I could remove the hardened resinous material, follow the procedure, then use something to lock them in place again. But is it worth it??

This radio is putting out about 82-85 watts on 4.0 MHz, and sensitivity is pretty good. Maybe not worth it, just to do a "complete" alignment...?

Joel, VE6EI
Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

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Hi Fred,

?

Thanks for your ideas. I've never even heard of friction modifiers, but hey I guess I learned something today. Sounds like I might be making a trip to Canadian Tire on the weekend.? Check them out online, great store! Everything for cars, trucks, bikes, home, back yard, kitchen, whatever...

?

Joel Weder, VE6EI

?
Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

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Joel,

I'd look at Tri-Flo, or the special mix I use...50/50 synthetic motorcycle chain lube and Park Tool synthetic bicycle grease.

I've reconditioned many Yaesu and Kenwood VFO drives with this formulation and it works.

Any grease with added friction modifiers is suitable, though.?

73 - Fred, N8YX?



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone


-------- Original message --------
From: Joel Weder <jweder@...>
Date: 3/22/22 10:14 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: Joel Weder <jweder@...>, [email protected]
Subject: Re: [yaesuft301d] Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

Well darn, that shaft was NOT bent. But still several points in rotation of the shaft where it "sticks" momentarily. Perhaps some fresh grease might help? Anybody have a suggestion for a good grease for this sort of purpose??

Luckily if I can't get this smoothed out I have an FV-301 I can pirate the Jackson drive from...

Joel, VE6EI

Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

Well darn, that shaft was NOT bent. But still several points in rotation of the shaft where it "sticks" momentarily. Perhaps some fresh grease might help? Anybody have a suggestion for a good grease for this sort of purpose??

Luckily if I can't get this smoothed out I have an FV-301 I can pirate the Jackson drive from...

Joel, VE6EI
Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

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I uploaded some photos, including a couple of the shaft in question, but forgot to click the "Notify..." button. The photo folder is called "FT-301 VFO Mechanism Repair" for whoever's interested.

?

This little gadget is a very complex way to connect a small gear to the VFO knob. I guess they ran out of room for one more gear. It provides about a 5:1 reduction, though I can't for the life of me see how it works. Some internal interaction between the springs and bearings perhaps? If anyone has a good description I'd love to hear it.

?

I've taken a quick look at the aluminum shaft. It doesn't seem to be bent, but I'll look again in the cold light of day.

?

Joel, VE6EI
Photo IMG_7055 Small.jpg updated #photo-notice

[email protected] Notification
 

The following photos have been updated in the FT-301 VFO Mechanism Repair album of the [email protected] group.

By: Joel Weder <jweder@...>
Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

Hi Joel,

That sounds familiar! If you roll the shaft on a flat surface,like a glass desktop or similar,you will probably see that it’s a bit bent.?

I took a bunch of measurements and made sketches (will be an adventure? to find) but i bet you will be able to “see” what needs to be done. ?

I scoured the interwebs for a similar part, ended up just straightening the bent shaft. I believe it’s called a Jackson vernier drive…

Maybe someone online has a tip on how to do that without a lathe?

73’蝉

Jon WB1AJJ?






On Sunday, March 20, 2022, 10:09 PM, Joel Weder <jweder@...> wrote:

I've disassembled the VFO mechanism sufficiently that I know the culprit. I just don't know what to call it, as there's no mechanical drawing in the manual, or list of VFO mechanical parts that I can find. The problem is with the shaft, bearings & gear that the VFO knob connects directly to. Everything looks to be brass except for the aluminum shaft.

Once I backed off the knurled (and spring-loaded as i discovered) brass nut that holds it all together a bit, the "catching" stopped. But now when I tighten it even hand-tight (it needed wrenches to remove) it again catches at several points around its rotation. There is some grease inside along with the three bearings, though my disassembly/reassembly may have caused some to be lost.?The knurled nut on my FV-301 is quite tight, so I doubt that tightness is the problem. Perhaps I need to get some more grease back in with the bearings?? If so, any suggestions on specific type? (something hopefully available at Home Depot or a repair shop?)

As a bit more description of the components... The aluminum shaft is inserted into the hollow brass shaft, and has a flared area near the end that captures the bearings, which are inserted thru holes in the side of the brass shaft. It all is held in compression by a spring inside the end of the brass shaft, with another smaller bearing between the spring and the end of the aluminum shaft, and a spring inside the knurled nut.

Joel, VE6EI

Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

I've disassembled the VFO mechanism sufficiently that I know the culprit. I just don't know what to call it, as there's no mechanical drawing in the manual, or list of VFO mechanical parts that I can find. The problem is with the shaft, bearings & gear that the VFO knob connects directly to. Everything looks to be brass except for the aluminum shaft.

Once I backed off the knurled (and spring-loaded as i discovered) brass nut that holds it all together a bit, the "catching" stopped. But now when I tighten it even hand-tight (it needed wrenches to remove) it again catches at several points around its rotation. There is some grease inside along with the three bearings, though my disassembly/reassembly may have caused some to be lost.?The knurled nut on my FV-301 is quite tight, so I doubt that tightness is the problem. Perhaps I need to get some more grease back in with the bearings?? If so, any suggestions on specific type? (something hopefully available at Home Depot or a repair shop?)

As a bit more description of the components... The aluminum shaft is inserted into the hollow brass shaft, and has a flared area near the end that captures the bearings, which are inserted thru holes in the side of the brass shaft. It all is held in compression by a spring inside the end of the brass shaft, with another smaller bearing between the spring and the end of the aluminum shaft, and a spring inside the knurled nut.

Joel, VE6EI
Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

I travel for work for months at a time. Bringing projects with me saves my sanity!

Make sure to have a plastic bin handy to catch the tiny balls in the vernier as you disassemble and clean. They can be difficult to find in the carpet…ask me how I know.

You might find another way other than chucking it up in a lathe if it’s bent…it was what I had access to at work and it was easy to tweak and measure till it was pretty close. ?Who knows, yours might be a-ok.

I will be interested to hear what you find and if you get it sorted out!

73,s. Jon WB1AJJ?




On Sunday, March 20, 2022, 3:18 PM, Joel Weder <jweder@...> wrote:

Hi Jon,

?

Well I must commend you on your determination, working on that radio in a hotel room! Lucky that you had access to a lathe. I don't know anyone who has one, but perhaps I can find a way to manage it. I'll hopefully have some time tonight and tomorrow night to disassemble the gear mechanism. I'll update the group with my results.

?

As a backup plan I'll scavenge the mechanism from my FV-301. It's just a show-piece now anyway. Can't imagine anyone needing to work split today with one of these old beasts. (wanting to - that's another matter!)

?

Joel Weder, VE6EI
Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

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Hi Jon,

?

Well I must commend you on your determination, working on that radio in a hotel room! Lucky that you had access to a lathe. I don't know anyone who has one, but perhaps I can find a way to manage it. I'll hopefully have some time tonight and tomorrow night to disassemble the gear mechanism. I'll update the group with my results.

?

As a backup plan I'll scavenge the mechanism from my FV-301. It's just a show-piece now anyway. Can't imagine anyone needing to work split today with one of these old beasts. (wanting to - that's another matter!)

?

Joel Weder, VE6EI
Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

I had a similar binding problem on my FT-221. It turned out the central shaft in the vernier drive was slightly bent. I convinced it back into straightness with a lathe, a maple dowel and a bit of patience.

I’ll have to peek under the hood of my ‘301 again, but what I recall from the 221?is a couple enjoyable evenings removing the front panel (great time to clean n shine), one to take it apart, a half hour on the lathe during lunch break and back together the next evening. I was working on a hotel room desk, took tons of snaps with my?cell phone and kept the screws organized and away from the carpet. Sounds like you are halfway there.

It works as smooth as silk now, straightened, clean and lubed.

Hope this helps a bit…key is patience, lots of notes and pics, and keep in mind how nice it will be when you’re done.

73s

Jon WB1AJJ







On Saturday, March 19, 2022, 9:46 PM, Joel Weder <jweder@...> wrote:

Well I decided to get brave and just try it. A step by step procedure to remove the VFO assembly from my FT-301:
- Unplug RCA connector on bottom of VFO
- Remove white tape from connector at back of VFO and disconnect
- Unsolder white/orange wire from red LED at the Channel switch. (note where it goes back later)
- Remove two screws on crossbar at bottom front of VFO?
- You'll probably need to remove the Filter and AM modules to gain access for the next step
- Remove screws holding crossbar at top back of VFO
- Entire VFO, gear drive & circular plastic kHz display should now wiggle out.

You might need to remove other items - I already had the small lamp bracket out and front panel off. Those may NOT be necessary.

Joel, VE6EI

Re: Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

Well I decided to get brave and just try it. A step by step procedure to remove the VFO assembly from my FT-301:
- Unplug RCA connector on bottom of VFO
- Remove white tape from connector at back of VFO and disconnect
- Unsolder white/orange wire from red LED at the Channel switch. (note where it goes back later)
- Remove two screws on crossbar at bottom front of VFO?
- You'll probably need to remove the Filter and AM modules to gain access for the next step
- Remove screws holding crossbar at top back of VFO
- Entire VFO, gear drive & circular plastic kHz display should now wiggle out.

You might need to remove other items - I already had the small lamp bracket out and front panel off. Those may NOT be necessary.

Joel, VE6EI
Removing FT-301 VFO mechanism ?

 

Hi again,

I'd pretty much finished restoring my FT-301 analog rig, but have noticed that the dial has three spots in every revolution where it catches just a bit. Right around 14, 47 and 80 kHz positions (if I'm turning the dial slowly) it'll feel like the mechanism has just fallen into a little hole. Moving it beyond takes just a bit more pressure. If I want to (for example) dial in 14.212 (just below or above one of these spots) the mechanism will pull over to .214. Other than this, the mechanism is very smooth, no grinding or roughness at all.

This doesn't really sound like a congealed-grease problem to me, rather perhaps an issue with a mis-aligned or damaged gear. I'm considering removing the gear mechanism from the radio, but it seems rather complicated to get it all out. i haven't seen anyone's comments on how best to do this, despite quite a bit of searching. For example, do I need to completely remove the front panel ? From a look inside it does seem to be necessary, but if there are any shortcuts I'd really appreciate hearing about it before I tear the radio completely apart!

Joel, VE6EI
FT-301 No Tx Output - Solved!

 

Hi all,

I've had an FT-301 for a couple of years, waiting for restoration. Finally got it on the bench and have been working thru the issues. I thought I'd share information about the biggest issue, which I've just solved. The radio was receiving pretty well, but not putting out as much as a milliwatt. I discovered that the PA brick is fine, and couldn't see any issues with the 10 watt amp either.?After some probing with a voltmeter I realized that there was no Switched Tx 13.8v. So started tracing that circuit, and soon enough found that L2, a 35 uH choke connected to one of the feed-thru capacitors on the underside of the rig, was open.

I replaced L2 with a similar value inductor (with a diode "backwards" across it), and immediately on keying up I was startled by a small explosion and smoke!! A tiny black component going from the downstream side of the choke to ground had fried. Whatever it was, it wasn't in the schematic as far as I could tell. But then I noticed an identical part on the other side of the choke, again going to ground. This one was labeled as "6.8 20v", so a capacitor. Not a form factor I'd ever seen before, but perhaps an early version of a tantalum? (small, black, rectangular shape)? Old tantalums are known for "exciting" fireworks on occasion.

Anyway, I replaced both with 6.8 uF electrolytics even though, as I mentioned earlier, I could not find them in the schematic. Clearly they, along with the 35 uH choke, are designed to keep RF out of the Switched 13.8v Tx line. After that I powered up the radio again, and it now puts out a solid 90-110 watts, depending on band.

I've already replaced all electrolytics in the radio, tightened every screw, have cleaned the card-edge connectors and of course also the case and knobs got a good scrub. Before doing a full alignment my next chore is to do something with the dial and S meter lamps. I find them woefully ... BLAH !! I'm not sure how else to describe it, but they just do not do the radio any justice. I'm going to put in LED's, and may mess around a bit to find some sort of (slight) color filter to give them a bit more "pizzazz." Any suggestions?

Joel, VE6EI
Re: Low power output on 80 meters.

 

I rotated the band selector may times on the 80 meter position and now it is drawing 5 amps so now I am getting some output. I guess I better try to clean the contacts on the band selector.

Next is the carrier balance.? VR501 will not null out the carrier. It almost gets it but no null.?

Switching from CW to USB or AM, The rig momentarily goes into transmit. I guess, a good inspection and

contact cleaning is in order. The rig does not have a CW filter so I ordered one. Found a good deal for a new
Inrad 250 hz filter for 39 bucks on ebay. Last of the few from the manufacturer.
Re: Low power output on 80 meters.

 

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I would first check DRIVER output just disconnect the PWR AMP input BNCs on the back.
If driver making 5-10 watts out, then problem is PWR AMP LPF or band SW wafer switches.

On 2/1/2022 8:12 AM, Robert Holsti wrote:

I have very very low output on 80 meters. It is so low that it does not indicate any current draw on the meter.
I can hear the signal on another receiver. I did not start troubleshooting with the scope yet.?
I just need a starting point so I can start the trouble shooting process. Can anyone give me a starting point ?
Robert KH2BR
no output on 80 meters

 

I have no output on 80 meters, all other bands are ok.
Where do i start to troubleshoot this problem?? I can hear output on a external receiver.
Thanks !!
Robert KH2BR
Low power output on 80 meters.

 

I have very very low output on 80 meters. It is so low that it does not indicate any current draw on the meter.
I can hear the signal on another receiver. I did not start troubleshooting with the scope yet.?
I just need a starting point so I can start the trouble shooting process. Can anyone give me a starting point ?
Robert KH2BR
Re: Yaesu Ft-301

 

If the vox is not working, you can verify the ic mc14011. It's a trouble source.

PP6EW
Emerson

Em qui., 23 de dez. de 2021 às 03:29, <vorsterjanco@...> escreveu:

Good day
Im a new yaesu ft-301 user. I have a real head scratcher. My yaesu ft-301 works fine until you press the ptt key then its like it stays in tx mode and the sound output does not return to normal. If it does that you need to power down the radio and power it up agen. If anyone can give me a litil bit of inside why it does that it will be much appreciated.

73
ZS6LVJ

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