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Jeepster T96 Transmission w correct overdrive. Steering gear and shaft from same About 30,000 miles Advise of interest Jeff Levey 25129 Maidstone Lane Beachwood, OH 44122 JeffLevey@... Home: 216-292-5759 Cell: 216-798-8824

I'm rebuilding the Ross steering in my 1948 CJ2A. So far I've managed to get all of the parts (sector shaft, bushings, bearings, etc.) I need except the 40-1/2" worm gear steering shaft. Walck's hasn't had this shaft for months, Kaiser Willys sent one that, simply stated, didn't work properly (long story). KW is accepting the return with full refund. Peter DeBella and Ron Fitzpatrick also do not have the shaft. Neither have any idea when it will be available. I'll put the old shaft back in and live with loose steering unless I can locate a vendor who has a new one. Who should I contact next?

Classification: Public Good morning. Has anyone used an oil cooler on their vehicle? I am thinking about it and wanted to know. If so what type did you get to work? My vehicle is a 1950 Willys wagon with a V8 1988 Corvette and want to get some additional cooling to the engine. Thank you. Todd Jones 1950 Wagon - Cream Soda

Full Disclosure: I also posted this on the CJ2A Forum. When I adjusted the valve clearance on my L 134 engine I discovered that one valve tappet adjuster was loose enough to turn with my fingers. This is the first time I adjusted the valve clearance since the engine was re-built many years ago. I sought the advice of the engine re-builder and his technicians. (In my judgement the tappet adjuster must have that loose when initially installed. However, since the engine was rebuilt many years ago and the company has changed ownership, they didn't take any responsibility.) They offered three solutions. First solution: Replace the tappet and adjuster which entails near-complete engine tear down. Second solution: Use a vise grip to squeeze the tappet flat spot in graduated steps until the distortion creates sufficient resistance. Third solution: Clean the tappet adjuster threads using lacquer thinner, set the clearance, then apply LockTight blue. I favor the third solution as a starting point because it doesn't result in physical damage. What advice can you offer?

Does this group still have a parts board? If so how do I find it? Were all of the photos on the old group left behind? Thanks Jim Ouimet

Any chance the front axle is engaged? … 4x4 on pavement causes binding of the drive train especially when not going perfectly straight. About an inch of “slack” in the Clutch pedal at the top per the manual?

Background…..46’ CJ2A stock…..virtually everything rebuilt minus transfer case….. I finally have the Willys on the streets(kinda)…..I’ve driven it around the block a few times.(1) It seems to have a pretty serious”drag”…..almost as if brakes are sticking. Last weekend I adjusted brakes w/feeler gauge all the way around and they SHOULD be good. Brakes work correctly when pedal is applied. Adjusted e-brake also w/feeler but it’s still not working correctly(cable MAY be too long)…..(2) It won’t shift while moving…..tranny rebuilt using Rick Stivers tranny rebuild video(by me?)….it will run/move in first gear and I’ve even started in 2nd and was able to get it moving but just won’t shift while moving. Clutch does catch near very end of release(adjustment needed??)……I’m gonna go thru shop manual and see if I can answer this myself also……but any insight from you all would help a lot more!! Thanks for any/all advice & sorry so long winded….Mike

Sounds like the key indicator is the clutch pedal is almost all the way out (up) before engaging. Was it this way before you rebuilt everything? Check your clutch release lever. It may not be seated properly. Can you install the clutch backward? Been so long since I've worked with one I don't remember. I suspect not. Throw out bearing/bushing isn't in all the way or is binding? I'd investigate the drag by jacking it up off it's wheels. In 2 wd with the engine not running push the clutch in and have someone spin one wheel with the other wheel held tight so the driveshaft turns. Does it drag? If not that eliminates the brakes. But if it does drag could also be wheel bearing etc. Repeat with tranny on neutral, then transfer case in neutral to help isolate the problem. Dan

It's been a quiet few weeks on WillysTech so maybe this post will elicit some activity. Full disclosure: This was also posted on CJ2A Forum. The problem: Loose steering. Sector shaft moving in and out 1/8" to 1/4 " as wheels are turned. The sector shaft doesn't appear to move laterally -- as though the bearings are worn. Four or five years ago when I rebuilt the steering box I didn't replace the worm gear shaft or the sector cross shaft because the gear seemed OK and the "nubs" on the sector shaft appeared to have little wear. nor did I replace the sector shaft bearings. I replaced the worm shaft bearings and followed the recommended procedure for shimming them. The worm gear shaft does NOT have any vertical play. The drag link parts were replaced and adjusted per instructions. I replaced the stock adjusting screw with a TightSteer and have lived with the looseness in the steering ever since. Now I want to improve the steering. So, I jacked up the front end, placed jack stands under it so the wheels were free to move, and worked the steering wheel through its travel arc from full right turn to full left turn. I loosened the TightSteer and with the front wheels turned fully for a right turn, tightened the TightSteer by hand until it was snug. Repeated this for left turn to test the tightness of the adjustment. Repeated this several times then locked it in place by tightening the lock nut. RESULT: the sector shaft movement was reduced but not eliminated. So, perhaps I'm looking at fully rebuilding the steering box complete with new worm shaft, sector shaft, and bearings. Your thoughts.

SUCCESS!!!!!! After too long a break from working on the Willys, I got back to cleaning up the grounding areas and,you read it….SUCCESS!!!! It “roared” to life!?? Which,of course , created more questions….& here they are….background-46 CJ2A stock,6-volt, new clutch parts minus clutch fork…(1)the engine starts and idles in neutral until I release the clutch and then it stalls. I haven’t a clue on this one……. (2)I have rebuilt the transmission via Rick Stivers T-90 transfer case video and am confident it’s good, but I’m unable to get forward or reverse motion. I’m not sure the transfer case is engaging….. I’m pretty sure there are IN and OUT (4wd) and HI,N,LOW(gear ratios) for the 2 handles. I may just need to roll it forward and back to engage to engage here….. ran out of time to troubleshoot here…….or it’s clutch related(adjustment?)…..hoping for some starting points to troubleshoot here….thanks for any and all help….& more questions to follow I’m sure…..Mike

It's been a while since I've been to the WillysTech Parts Board. Is it still active? I've tried to post twice and get an error when I hit the final submit button.

Now that mechanically the wagon islooking good.... Just thinking about getting the interior done on my wagon. So to start... Are the wood slats bolted on the other side of the floor? Like will I have to remove things like the gas tank and mufflers? Also... has anyone ever done a road noise dampening treatment on the under side? Or is there a suggestion on how to do that? Thanks

Im on the search for a 6-226 pickup starter nose. Starter # MDU 7003 Anyone have a spare laying around?