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Re: tub rails...

Don Miller
 

What I did was remove the body, flip it over and fabricated new ones out of
a structural steel called "unistrut"...this is a very strong channel shaped
steel that has slots spaced every couple of inches or so. I cut and laid
the pieces directly on top of the old (barely there in some places and
non-existent on other places)channel. I tack welded it together (no solid
welding yet so as to avoid heat warppage) then welded it to the tub; again
skipping around to avoid heat warppage. I was having fun welding and
teaching my son how to weld so we probably welded too much but 1 inch of
weld then skip 3 or 4 or 5 inches would probably be sufficient. You may
have to drill some holes depending on how the holes on the unistrut fall in
relation to the mounting points on the frame. Good luck.
Don

---(0)IIIIII(0)---


'Ya gotta see this.

Kendal Jackson
 

Was goofing around and found this.... MB for sale :-) Anyone want to split
the cost? I would be willing to bet the guy would come down on price a good
50K if we talk real nice.



Do you think out off all that we could put together one decent Willys?




Kendal Jackson
--It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm
really quite busy--


Re: Electrical System

 

I just read Eric Lawson write up on the generator to alternator
conversion. Excellent write up. Everything in detail. Thanks Reed for
steering me in the right direction.

Bob


L-134 Generator Found

David H. Hatch
 

Hi...

Just returned from ham radio event. A guy there had a Willys L-134
generator. All nomenclature plates intact, all serials readable.
Donaldson air filter. Ran like a charm, 24 hours straight for the
event.

Not for sale that I know of, but for those "documenters" of such, I
can get serials for you.

Just ask.

Dave


Re: Electrical System

Sean R. Kerns
 

Bob,

As Reed has said, the write up on the 3B site is very good. As for a parts
source for the alternator, believe it or not, I was able to get one at NAPA
that worked for my application (a '48 CJ-2A). They have more than you'd
think, if you can convince them they have it and get them to look in their
books.

Sean

bob.dee@... wrote:

From: bob.dee@...

Good morning from New York:
I would like to remove my generator and regulator and replace it with a
altanator. Does any body know what altanator part number i need and can i
use the same generator support bracket. Is this an easy operation to
under take or is their a lot of modications needed. Question no. 2 : How
would i reinstall my plow pump, since now my generator would be gone?
This is being done on a 46cj2a, whiich is used soley for plowing my
driveways only. It allready has been converted to 12 volts since 1985
when i picked it up. Any help would be appreciated Thank you.

Bob
46 cj2a
48 cj2a( under full restoration)
--
Sean R. Kerns (aka Snake)
e-mail: music@...
Bloodspoint Studio - Home of Stalking Horse

"You're in a band... That's like a business class ticket to
cool, with complimentary mojo after takeoff..."


(No subject)

 

I have a 1947 cj2a and like all the early willys it has 2 spring clips (?) on
the inside of the windshield frame. I have known these jeeps most of my life
and it's time I asked someone what they are. Thanks, Jim Ford


Re: Electrical System

 

Thank you Reed. I am off to that site.
Bob


Yes! there is a Bernie Daily

 

Hi all,
Life, work, Willys they make such demands. Well, maybe not the willys. It is always there ready to take me anywhere.
Like last night. I went to a cruise nite 50 miles away. That's a 100 mile round trip. Going the temperature was in the 90"s, coming back it had cooled and my bright (really) 6 volt system showed the way.
the truck was a big hit. Everyone loves them as you know. Maybe the corvette guy next to me felt a little slighted (shouldn't have bought such a common car) I displayed the "Original SUV" decal and I got a lot of smiles.
I just got my plates renewed and had my year of manufacture '55 Commercial plate with the '59 tag, looks good.
since I only run a rear plate, I now have a motorcycle sized plate from '56 that was for pre-paid New York state Thuway use. Neat!
I haven't been back in a while, the list was hard to red with the blue border encroaching on the print, looks good now.
I started a new job and I may get back to regular email for the list. Maybe even regular contributions : )
we'll see.
Love the list!!!
Bernie


Re: Electrical System

Reed Cary
 

Bob,

There is an excellent write up an this, on the 3B site:



Reed (CA)

--- bob.dee@... wrote:
From: bob.dee@...

Good morning from New York:
I would like to remove my generator and regulator and replace it with a
altanator. Does any body know what altanator part number i need and can i
use the same generator support bracket. Is this an easy operation to
under take or is their a lot of modications needed. Question no. 2 : How
would i reinstall my plow pump, since now my generator would be gone?
This is being done on a 46cj2a, whiich is used soley for plowing my
driveways only. It allready has been converted to 12 volts since 1985
when i picked it up. Any help would be appreciated Thank you.

Bob
46 cj2a
48 cj2a( under full restoration)
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Re: Shift tower

Reed Cary
 

Rick, I think you are correct. On another T-90 the only difference is in the (tower)housing.
(different pt.#) This wouldn't show in a scan.

Reed (CA)

--- Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:
From: Rick48CJ2A@...

Ron,
I think I've figured out the differences in what we are looking at.
Apparently the shift tower for the M-38 is different from the one in my
pickup. I would surmise that this is because, M-38s were made to ford deep
water and my truck was not. Does anybody have a illustrated parts breakdown
for the M-38 T-90 that can be posted. I will scan one for the pickup as well
and post these pictures along with the instructions for each type.

Great job Ron. I really do appreciate this.

Rick S (TX)
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Re: Backup lights

J.Lewis
 

Since the boss is already cast in the shifter there must be a switch
manufactured specifically for that transmission. I'll bet that it was used
in other Willys vehicles, possibly the same switch was used in other
transmission models as well. I know that the T18 in my CJ-7 has a switch in
a similar position. I'm thinking that the T18 switch could be used for the
T90 as long as you had enough room in the casting to drill and tap the
correct size hole.

Someone needs to take a trip to NAPA and ask for a backup light switch for a
T90. Failing that, ask for a backup light switch for another transmission,
take a look at it with the measurements of the T90 in mind and determine if
it'll fit.

It might be worth a try. All you have to do at that point is figure out
what kind of backup light(s) you want. A whole other topic for discussion
that would be.

- Jerry

'46 CJ-2a #53681 (in many pieces)

----- Original Message -----
From: Ronald L. Cook <rlcook@...>
To: <WillysTech@...>
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 1999 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: [WT] Backup lights


From: "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook@...>

Rick,
That would probably work. You would need to machine the groove in the
shifter rail to smoothly lift and lower a follower of some kind,
probably one of the balls laying in the back of the shop that bounced
off someone's forehead. Actually, should be something a little smaller
I think. You could set it up with a normally open switch, so when the
follower dropped in the groove, the switch would make. Something akin
to a late model stoplight switch like most swing pedals use.

Ron

Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:

From: Rick48CJ2A@...

Since we have devoted so much of today to the T-90 gear shift control I
will
throw out one more question.

On the reverse shifter rail there is a boss molded into the control
housing.
On the reverse shifter rod there is a groove cut that would end up
directly
under the boss when the shifter is in reverse. Has anyone ever drilled
a
hole in this boss and mounted a switch to provide backup lights for
their
Willys. If so, do you remember what switch you used.
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Re: Electrical System

 

Good morning from New York:
I would like to remove my generator and regulator and replace it with a
altanator. Does any body know what altanator part number i need and can i
use the same generator support bracket. Is this an easy operation to
under take or is their a lot of modications needed. Question no. 2 : How
would i reinstall my plow pump, since now my generator would be gone?
This is being done on a 46cj2a, whiich is used soley for plowing my
driveways only. It allready has been converted to 12 volts since 1985
when i picked it up. Any help would be appreciated Thank you.

Bob
46 cj2a
48 cj2a( under full restoration)


Re: cj5 body mounts

Melanie Guilbeault
 

Hey Jesse,

this is Mat from Germany. I have a 69 CJ5 which I am partially
restoring. I had the same problem with the body mounts, and I ended up
making them myself. When I was finished I found an ad from "classic
enterprises" box 92 Barron, Wi. 54812 Tel. 715-537-5422 in one of my
4x4 mags. They have a picture of the strengthening ribs below the
floors and the rear cab mounts by the tail lights. Hope it helps!
Mat
--- CrAzYnSaIn@... wrote:
From: CrAzYnSaIn@...

HI I AND FROM CALIFORNIA AND MY NAME IS JESSE. I OWN
A 64 WILLY'S CJ5 THAT AT
THE MOMENT I HAVE TORN APART CAUSE THERE WAS EXTREME
RUSTING AT THE BODY
MOUNTING POINTS. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANY OF YOU
KNOW HOW I COULD REPLACE
JUST THE MOUNTING RAILS ON THE TUB. SO THAT I DON'T
HAVE TO BUY A NEW TUB.
AND KNOW THAT YOU ALL KNOW ABOUT ME COULD YOU PLEASE
TELL ME ABOUT YOU AND
WHAT WILLY'S YOU DRIVE SO THAT I DON'T START OF LOST
TALKING TO YOU.

THANKS, JESSE
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Re: willys woodies

Kendal Jackson
 

At 09:19 AM 6/26/99 -0700, you wrote:
From: "Morris G. Hill" <mgh@...>
...it was the "woven paper" coarse
weave stuff that came on all Willys wagons, at least all the ones I saw from
the 1940's and 1950's. I tried to find the headliner stuff about 12 years
ago, because the original headliner in my 1956 wagon was beyond reasonable
salvage, but lots of calls later I had managed to learn only that this
"woven paper" as they called it in the trade (1) had been cheap and not very
durable; (2) hadn't been made in years, and (3) besides Willys, had only
been used by Ford in their woodies around the 1940 period.
Cool! this is what appears to be the headliner in my Wagon and it is in
excellent condition. It is very dirty however. Anyone have any ideas on now
to clean it and not destroy it in the process?

I test-drove the1954 6-85 wagon and it ran and looked good, but I couldn't
afford the >$175 the owner wanted for it.

DOH!!


Kendal Jackson
--It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm
really quite busy--


Re: Jesse's Tub Mounts was(no subject)

 

Hi Jesse,
Welcome to the list. If there is enough of the original body mounts left,
you can cut them off and take them to a custom sheet metal fabrication shop
and have them make you a new set. Then you can weld the new ones back on. I
recommend that they not make the new ones out of galvanized metal. Most
welders will not weld on this stuff because it's toxic.

As for getting to know us. My name is Rick Stivers and I'm in the Air Force
stationed in San Antonio, TX. I drive a 1962 Willys Pickup with a 350 Chevy
motor installed. You can find out most of what you want about my truck at my
web site.

If you really want to know about us though, I would recommed spending a few
weeks going through the Willys Tech Archives. There is a wealth of info on
us in there. Our hopes and dreams are revealed to the world through out
postings.

And Jesse, YOU DON'T HAVE TO YELL! :-)

Glad to have you onboard.

Rick S (TX)

In a message dated 6/27/99 1:14:13 AM Central Daylight Time,
CrAzYnSaIn@... writes:

<<
HI I AND FROM CALIFORNIA AND MY NAME IS JESSE. I OWN A 64 WILLY'S CJ5 THAT
AT
THE MOMENT I HAVE TORN APART CAUSE THERE WAS EXTREME RUSTING AT THE BODY
MOUNTING POINTS. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANY OF YOU KNOW HOW I COULD REPLACE
JUST THE MOUNTING RAILS ON THE TUB. SO THAT I DON'T HAVE TO BUY A NEW TUB.
AND KNOW THAT YOU ALL KNOW ABOUT ME COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME ABOUT YOU AND
WHAT WILLY'S YOU DRIVE SO THAT I DON'T START OF LOST TALKING TO YOU.

THANKS, JESSE >>


Re: Backup again

 

In a message dated 6/27/99 12:58:36 AM Central Daylight Time,
rlcook@... writes:

<<
I am getting to be like Vern, and I am just using my fax line. Have no
daughter at home anymore. But, why not just use the end of the shifter
shaft rail to operate a switch. When you shift into reverse, the shaft
goes back and seeing as how you have no expansion plugs there, just
machine some way to hold a switch. The old KISS method just may work
here.
>>
Thanks for the posts guys. As much as I would like to take credit for this
entire idea I have to admit that I got it from the Dana 20 I dismantled. It
had a switch mounted on the shift rail that would apparently light a light
somewhere when it was shifted into 4WD. Unfortunately the switch was too far
gone to be used. The end of the switch had a rounded end so it could slide
in and out of the machined grove. That sent me looking at the boss on the
Shift tower. You guys have to admit that it looks like it was put there just
for that reason. That in turn sent me pulling the shift rail out and sure
enough there is a machined beveled groove cut there for a detent ball to slip
into.

I'm not a rocket scientist, so I figured somebody else had already discovered
this, and made the required modification to make it work.

I don't know it the switch that was in the Dana opened or closed when the
button was released, but either way I figure I could wire it up to work.

Ron, I'm not sure if I have clearance to fit a switch on top of my tranny
because of the floorboard. If not, I think your installation on the end of
the rail would be a good alternate solution. Either way I'm going to try to
get backup lights on this thing by years end.

Rick S (TX)


Re: Shift tower

 

Ron,
I think I've figured out the differences in what we are looking at.
Apparently the shift tower for the M-38 is different from the one in my
pickup. I would surmise that this is because, M-38s were made to ford deep
water and my truck was not. Does anybody have a illustrated parts breakdown
for the M-38 T-90 that can be posted. I will scan one for the pickup as well
and post these pictures along with the instructions for each type.

Great job Ron. I really do appreciate this.

Rick S (TX)


Backup again

Ronald L. Cook
 

I am getting to be like Vern, and I am just using my fax line. Have no
daughter at home anymore. But, why not just use the end of the shifter
shaft rail to operate a switch. When you shift into reverse, the shaft
goes back and seeing as how you have no expansion plugs there, just
machine some way to hold a switch. The old KISS method just may work
here.

Ron, should be going to bed


Re: 48 CJ2 Power Loss, latest theory

Michael S. Jackson
 

Thanks. I'll try putting the old coil back in and a new condensor (small
things like that justify parts swapping).

Thanks again,
Mike/Utah/CJ2A

K. R. wrote:

From: "K. R." <kr98664@...>

--- micatjackson@... wrote:
From: micatjackson@...

All my jeep buddies out there - I still have a
problem with my L134 losing power when engine is
warmed up.
snip

Dear Friends,

Hope you don't mind listening as I give a big spin to
the Advice-O-Matice. This one woke me up this
morning.

You mentioned installing a new coil. Was it NOS?
Lots of old electrical components don't age very well,
even if never used and carefully stored. The
insulating varnish on the wire inside the coil
partially breaks down and shorts out. This would be
especially prevalent during periods of high throttle
settings. A higher intensity spark is required due to
greater pressure inside the cylinder. If the coil is
marginal, the current will follow the path of least
resistance during those conditions and discharge
internally.

That would also heat up coil, which might explain why
it runs great briefly if it the jeep is shut off for a
few minutes. It might even explain the need for a
high idle speed. Do you still have the old coil? You
could try that if it ran OK before.

A bad condensor might do likewise. You can remove it
for brief troubleshooting and not hurt anything,
although your points will burn out much faster.

Full of Theories,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA
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Re: Backup lights

Ronald L. Cook
 

Rick,
That would probably work. You would need to machine the groove in the
shifter rail to smoothly lift and lower a follower of some kind,
probably one of the balls laying in the back of the shop that bounced
off someone's forehead. Actually, should be something a little smaller
I think. You could set it up with a normally open switch, so when the
follower dropped in the groove, the switch would make. Something akin
to a late model stoplight switch like most swing pedals use.

Ron

Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:


From: Rick48CJ2A@...

Since we have devoted so much of today to the T-90 gear shift control I will
throw out one more question.

On the reverse shifter rail there is a boss molded into the control housing.
On the reverse shifter rod there is a groove cut that would end up directly
under the boss when the shifter is in reverse. Has anyone ever drilled a
hole in this boss and mounted a switch to provide backup lights for their
Willys. If so, do you remember what switch you used.