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Kendal Jackson wrote: Reed gives some excellent advice. I'll add that I'm painting my M38A1 now, its sort of an ongoing thing. The reasons I went this way were... - "Some assembly required" on my

Hello All ... I finally have worked up the nerve to introduce myself, after a period of silently spying on the list. I have a '54 (based on the serial number) pickup. The truck came to me, here in the

On the F-head block the factory stamped letters on the deck adjacent to each cylinder. I assumed they were related to customizing the rings at the factory for when the machine shop "oversizes" that

FYI, I got this from my West Coast Willys email group. Jim 56 PU L6 226 CA

http://www.jeepthing.com/cgi-bin/pawnbbs.pl?read=640 51 wagon in Missouri 1000.00

Most of you may no know this but I bought Hugh for my teenage daughter so that she would not destroy our Toyota. I think it the perfect car for a first time driver. Wont go fast, so solid that I truly

I have been searching high and low for this product. Where are you getting it? Kendal Jackson --It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm really quite busy--

"K. R." wrote:

When I got my 63 CJ5 it was in pieces. Took three trips to get it home. I am in the process of restoring it and putting it back together. My current puzzle is the master cylinder. It was completely a

Sounds fun, I am already planning on a remote filter because it looks like the oil filter may hit the front differential on full compression. I don't think that I have to worry about the timing cover

I wish I'd measured mine while it was in. I stuck it in temporarily to get the motor mount locations marked, took some pictures but forgot to take out the tape measure.

--- Arne Anderson <[email protected]> wrote: Dear Arne, In the 2A FAQ's, there is a little info, under the engine section. The two methods mentioned are either a puller set, or some of them have

In a message dated 6/22/99 12:22:23 PM Central Daylight Time, grover@... writes: << I don't want to confuse people, but this is a retitle of a divergent thread... Morris, Do you know which

--- Bill Lagler <wbl@...> wrote: snip Dear V6 Owners, I came across this in an automotive textbook recently and thought you might be interested. "The relief valve on Jeep V6 engines frequently

anybody have any tips on removing the starter bushing from the bellhousing on a l-head 134. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks arne

the easiest way to determine axle ratio is to jack up one rear wheel, put the tranny in neutral, mark both the tire and driveshaft. rotate the tire about 20 times and count the number of times the

I don't want to confuse people, but this is a retitle of a divergent thread... Morris, Do you know which vehicles had the 1-1/8" verses the 1-1/4" intermediate shaft? I have a Spicer 18 in my 49

Merl wrote: Just read the above, sounds like the 2A has the same axle...not true. The ratio is the same in the 2A but the axle itself isn't. -- "Never pound on the threaded **** end of

See the "classic" Jeep antithesis at http://www.slate.com/Features/GodzillaSUV/page2.asp Mike Boyink Holland, MI 1966 CJ5 1983 6.2 GMC Rally Van (towdog) http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/boyinkm.htm

Rockiehigh@... wrote: The ratio should be 5.38:1, same as for the 2A, 3A, M38, etc. The tag on the differential for this ratio is (if I remember correctly) 43/8. -- "Never pound on the threaded