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Re: drive line noise
Merl
Gkart65@... wrote:
I find this fairly curious. I wouldn't think that 1" of lift over stock would cause what sounds like a lot of driveline noise. Are you getting much vibration along with the noise? (The first time I changed my 2A's u-joints I put the rear shaft on backwards with the female part of the slipjoint to the rear. Man, that was *vibration city*!) You mention having removed the front driveshaft in an effort to eliminate that as a cause, I would suggest that you put it back on and remove the rear driveshaft and try it as front wheel drive only. If you still get the noise then your problem is in the transfer case. No noise and its somewhere from the transfer case output gear on back. Can you describe the noise that you're hearing? I had a noise in my 2A that I would describe as a "thrashing" that would happen under conditions similar to what you describe...under acceleration and engine braking no noise, but coasting to a stop with the tranny in neutral and I'd get this "thrashing" (very inconsistent, sounded like a worn gear wobbling on a shaft). It turned out to be a worn mainshaft in my transfer case. I isolated it by putting the rear axle up on jackstands (and blocks, and jacks, and a few other things that made me feel safe about it not falling off) and running it in gear. Once I isolated the noise to the transfer case I dropped the pan and was able to detect the gear/shaft wobble. YMMV. Merl, TX |
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Re: PARTS
Reed Cary
--- CJ2A1947@... wrote:
From: CJ2A1947@... Look Below. ------------------------------------------------------------------------=== _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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Re: (no subject)(WT Parts Board)
Tea Herb Farm
CJ2A1947@... wrote:
From: CJ2A1947@...Jim: AOL does not allow for clickable links from their e-mail software. You will have to highlight the URL below and then copy and then paste it into the location box in your browser window I hope this info helps you, if you have any further problems, please e-mail me directly and I'll try to help. MVP Moderator -- WillysTech -- '53 Wagon 4X$ (still in the shop) _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ TEA HERB FARM Browse Our Secure Online Seed Catalog 0ver 4000 Seeds -- 750 Dried Herbs 2332 Tea Road Tea, Missouri, USA 63091-1819 MAILTO:therbfrm@... PHONE-(573)437-3053 FAX-(573)437-3053 _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ |
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Dipstick Oil Mark
Read that someone had trouble identifying when
they were a quart low on a L134. I had an engine like that once. Maybe you could drain all the oil (at the next iol change) and refill with only 3 qts, start the engien to get it pumping, shut down and check. Then take a pair of wire cutters and cut divits into the dipstick at the point where you know it is a qt low. NOTE: cut the sides, not the face. You just want to make notches. This is not to usurp the good advice from the others who said not to worry about the 1 quart issue, but to add when it drops. However, making these marks will allow you to judge. Just an idea. Mike - CJ2A in Utah |
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CJ2A - Power Loss
First let me say you guys are the greatest. I have
had a lot of really good advice. I'm sorry I don't read my mail more often, but Uncle Sam wants to keep F-16s in the air a lot lately and I am busy with that. I just read my mail and will be flying to Colo Springs in the morning. When I return next Sunday I'll give your suggestions a try (the easiest first!). To update you: Scott and Kendall - Maybe I'm missing something, but my CJ2A L134 doesn't have a vacuum advance. Should it? Also, Rick, does it have a mechanical advance? I can't see it. I'll recheck the dwell. Vern - Good idea about the feul cap creating a vacuum in the system. I'll check it and let you know. Ross, Paul, Tom, Jeff - I'll re-route the fuel line to make sure it's not vapor locking. Didn't know about the condensor getting hot, John. I'll move it. Vern You're right about the 4.5 # fuel pressure. It bothered me also. I'll do the check you and John suggested (pump into gas can to check diaphram. By the way, the pump and gas lines are new and not clogged. And I am using a long hose attached to the gauge; I route it through the windshield (which is my air conditioner!) and the pressure doesn't drop appreciably when driving, hot or cold. Mark and Kendall - thanks for the info hon timing; I'll give it a try. Reed - The plugs look OK, the choke is not stuck, thanks for the poop on the replacement (Solex) carb; I might resort to that. How do I check the valves while the eingine is in the Jeep? When I overhauled the engine I had a machine shop do the valves. They are a good shop, but maybe they're not set right? DMars - Good call on the exhaust system! I'll roll in hot on that one and hose it down good! It seems this problem might have started right after I got a new muffler and pipes (Vern, that was over a year ago, so the winter or summer weather doesn't make a difference and one of you got the idea I live in Arizona, but I live in Northern Utah). Rick - One time the engine backfired in about 4,000 miles of driving. Not a consistent thing. Well, that's about it. Sorry this was so long. If any of you have any more ideas, please let me know. I'll be hitting this hard next week. Thanks again, Mike - CJ2A in Utah |
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Warn over drive removal
Ross Cook
I needed to pull the parts out of the soaker anyway.(Five gallon bucket of
diesel fuel ) Figured I might as well take a stab at this while it's still fresh on my mind. 1.) remove the bearing cap 2.) remove the cotter pin, hex nut and spacer washer 3.) remove the case and case cover 4.) ( this is the if and maybe part) If the shaft bearing isn't stuck in the planetary hub you may be able to pull the shaft while giving it a counter clockwise turn. However, since the shaft bearing has an interference fit on the O.D. into the planetary hub some degree of force will need to be exerted. ( in my case I removed all the components off of the shaft and used a drift to drive the shaft and bearing out of the planetary hub. I suppose one could use a slap hammer if one was available. There was very little damage if any as a result of the removal.) 5.) Once the shaft has been removed, remove the special square snapring and washer to access the drive nut. Use a socket extension to loosen the drive nut. Once this is accomplished you can remove the transmission output shaft coming from the transmission and the rest of the assembly can be easily removed from the transfer case. Note.) As I see it the biggest hang up is removing the shaft from the planetary hub. Well let me know what you think. When I started pulling mine apart there was almost no info on the web. Probably because it shouldn't be a big deal to take apart. After sitting for a few years and a little water however made it a real pain in the butt. I had a great time though. |
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Speaking of brake lines
I got my brake lines from Willys America. Not sure what else they have. My
previous sports car manuals ( 72 MG Midget and 75 911s) said to purge the brake fluid every two years (period). Had the wife help me bleed the brakes today. Except for getting in and pumping before I told her to (read: time to clean up lots of brake fluid on the garage floor) it went o.k. I may put off changing the lines for a few weeks, the brakes feel firm and solid. Jim 56 PU L6 226 CA |
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Ricky's New Toy
Well guys, I went to Sears yesterday and bought a sandblaster. I had one
years ago, but I never had an air compressor to use it with so I got rid of it. A friend of mine is moving this week to Houston, but won't have a place to keep her air compressor until then. Being the nice guy that I am, I volunteered to "store" it for her until she got situated. Needless to say my "storing" the compressor required my purchasing the sandblaster to store with it. I brought it home and blasted an old rusty set of metal armrests. They came out looking great with just about 5 minutes work. I love this thing. I decided that I should post a few of the safety tips I discovered while doing this. 1. Use a full face shield and goggles 2. Wear heavy leather gloves 3. Wear long sleeves and a hat Set to 90 PSI this thing will cut through just about anything if left in one place too long. After I blasted the armrests my wife decided it was time for me to try it out on some old cast iron skillets we had. Man is this thing fast. By then it was getting late and I thought the compressor might keep up the neighbors so I shut things down and cleaned it all up figuring to start on the truck this morning. As luck would have it the rain hasn't stopped all day. It being Father's Day and all my wife suggested that I take her shopping. What the heck it was raining anyway. It certainly doesn't do the home life any good to whine about such things and besides she wanted to go to Sears. She went to women's clothing and I went to the tool department. After seeing how great a job the sand blaster had done, I knew that the new compressor would have to be coming for my Christmas present. I was looking at the upright 30 gallon, 6 CFM at 90 PSI model for $299. I was certain that it could be mine if I just threw enough hints Momma's way. As luck would have it Momma came back from clothes shopping before I was done drooling over the tools. I decided it was time to drop the first hint, "I want that compressor for Christmas this year" (You have to specify which year you know). Subtle don't you think. Momma took one look at it and said, "Are you sure. This one's bigger and cheaper". What! I couldn't believe it. They had the floor model of the $499 Professional upright 60 gallon, 9.5 CFM at 90 PSI compressor on clearance for $219. Needless to say, I had Momma buy it for me on the spot. Ain't married life grand. It only has a 90 day warranty but it seems that if this stuff is going to go bad it usually does it in the first few months. Darn, Now I have to store 2 air compressors. :-) Look how many other new tools I'll have to buy. Rick S (TX) |
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Re: Brake Fluid Replacement?
William T Wilson
On Sun, 20 Jun 1999 Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:
at least every two years. Anyway, he came back from four differentMy rule is that the fluid should be flushed every two years, or whenever the brake pads (shoes) are changed. Brake fluid is *extremely* hydrophilic; it absorbs water like crazy. As this water builds up in the brake fluid, it does many bad things to the brake system, including rusting the brake components, and making the fluid less effective. On an open brake system, the brake fluid collects atmospheric water whether you step on the brake pedal or not. On modern cars, the fluid does stay cherry red longer than on our Jeeps. I've got a Geo which has had the same brake fluid in it for two and a half years and it is as red as new. I would change it, except the brake pads refuse to wear out. (Sometimes I think this car does not actually use its own mechanical components, but instead is simply a gateway to an advanced interdimensional transportation network.) |
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Restoring old License plates
Matt Phillimore
I got a tag from the year my truck was manuactured, straight of the
wall of a Joplin, MO resturant! It's in pretty good shape, but has some rust. I was considering beadblasting it, fixing the one little dent and the knick in the edge, and re painting it. Is this a good/bad idea? anyone done it, and how do you paint the raised letters? matt |
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Re: How do you remove the OD---manaul-------
Ross Cook
Landen,
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I don't have a Web-site, but I'd love to get a look at that manual. -----Original Message-----
From: Landen Schooler <skoullar@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 4:55 PM Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD---manaul------- From: Landen Schooler <skoullar@...> |
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Re: Brake Fluid Replacement?
Ronald L. Cook
Ken,
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Think that one over again. How hot does water need to be to disappear? Will seals last at that temperature? DOT 5 has its own set of problems. Not completely trouble free either. Water can get in all of them via the method described by Rick, or by submerging the master cylinder vent. Purging is easy and cheap. Ron, Ia Kenjdorm@... wrote:
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Re: Brake Fluid Replacement?
Ronald L. Cook
Rick,
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Granddad had it right and you are giving the fellow the proper advise. I think Landon is ASE certified. Ron, IA 43GPW with new brake fluid, 51M38 with no brake fluid Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:
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Re: How do you remove the OD---manaul-------
In a message dated 6/20/99 4:55:20 PM Central Daylight Time,
skoullar@... writes: << Ok, If someone will post the manual on a web site, I'll scan mine and send it to them. The AA pics don't hold a candle to the original Warn book. Landen Schooler >> Landen, Scan away my friend and I will post it. Rick S (TX) |
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Re: Brake Fluid Replacement?
In a message dated 6/20/99 4:45:28 PM Central Daylight Time,
rlcook@... writes: << Rick, Granddad had it right and you are giving the fellow the proper advise. >> Thanks guys, I feel a lot better now. I must say that it feels kinda strange to have someone come back saying they laughed at him because of the advise you gave. Rick S (TX) |
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