开云体育

Remove the spark plug on #1. Place a finger over the hole. Rotate the engine. As the piston rises on the compression stroke, you'll feel the pressure increasing. At some point, the pressure starts to decline. Back up a tad and that will be TDC, or close enough for what needs to be done.

Rotate the motor through a few cycles so that you can feel the difference between intake, exhaust, compression, and power strokes. It is at the top of the compression stroke that TDC is found. About 5% degrees before this point is where the points should fire, or BTDC.

It is irrelevant which tower becomes #1, as long as this tower is where the rotor is pointing at #1 TDC.

DJ
FL

Firing order on a F134 and any inline 4 cylinder is 1-3-4-2. The cylinders
are numbered 1-2-3-4 with #1 in the front of the vehicle.



As DJ stated, the distributor is wired 1-3-4-2 in a COUNTER CLOCKWISE
rotation.



Ric -.
Toledo, Ohio
Home of the World Famous JeepR




1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo
1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue
1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy
1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer.
1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612
1963-5? - Wagoneer
1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt
1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L
2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery Vehicle



Never Forget September 11, 2001
Freedom isn't free

<>

**
** Constants Aren't ****
** Variables Won't ****
**

_____

From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of John Francis
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 8:02 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WT] Almost



I took my leaking carb back to the fellow that rebuilt it. He took
it apart and said there was nothing wrong with it. But he did adjust
the float a little. I put it back on the engine tonight and that did
the trick!

I then connected the choke, throttle cable, and proceeded to install
the plugs. I checked the oil filter and found it full of oil so I
assume that means the oil pump is operating. I understand the firing
order on my F134 is 1-2-4-3 and the cylinders are 1-2-3-4 from the
front of the vehicle. I'm not an engine mechanic but think that if I
pick any wire on the distributor cap and call it number one and
connect it to the #1 cylinder plug. I then go clockwise with wires
and connect to plugs 2, 4, and 3 with the remaing wires. Correct me
if I'm wrong.

Well, to make a long story short I couldn't get it to start. I
checked each plug for spark while my wife turned the engine over and
had spark. What else can I do?

Thanks,
John

order on my F134 is 1-2-4-3 and the cylinders are 1-2-3-4 from the
front of the vehicle. I'm not an engine mechanic but think that if I
pick any wire on the distributor cap and call it number one and
connect it to the #1 cylinder plug. I then go clockwise with wires
and connect to plugs 2, 4, and 3 with the remaing wires. Correct me
if I'm wrong.

You're wrong, sorta. The firing order is 1-3-4-2 and the rotor in the distributor rotates counter-clockwise. If the distributor is installed per factory specifications the #1 cap tower should be roughly in the 5 o'clock position. Then go counter clockwise 1342. Your way will work once #1 is set but that order is actually opposite of the way the rotor turns. Follow DJ's instructions for finding the #1 cap tower - just make sure that the #1 piston is at TDC of its compression stroke.

David
'50 $WD Pickup

Okay, now how do I place the number one cylinder at TDC. Just look in
through the spark plug hole?

John

--- In WillysTech@..., "DJ" <DJURSS@...> wrote:

John

You need to set #1 piston at TDC, then place the #1 plug wire in the

tower that the rotor is pointing at. Then go COUNTER clockwise with
the other plug wires in the proper order.

You may need to adjust the dist housing so that the #1 tower is

aligned with the rotor in such a fashion that the point are JUST
opening. THis should get the engine to at least fire off, if not run
enough to fine tune the distro.

DJ
FL

As I near completion of my 53 Pickup I can hear my 54 m38a1
crying "it's my turn" from the corner of my barn. I do know that I
need to start tearing it apart before the snow blows and tucked away in
the dark recesses before the girls start taking over my barn for the
Christmas holidays. We use this same space for our Christmas shop with
our u-cut Christmas tree farm.

I removed the tub and inspected it and found it to need a lot of work.
It had been sand blasted and painted and some poor patch work done by
the previous owner who found it beyond his skills. AFter going through
a lot of expensive body work (and putty) with my truck I am considering
a replacement tub. I found this website today
and wanted to hear your comments
if you had experience with these.

Thanks,
John

John

You need to set #1 piston at TDC, then place the #1 plug wire in the tower that the rotor is pointing at. Then go COUNTER clockwise with the other plug wires in the proper order.

You may need to adjust the dist housing so that the #1 tower is aligned with the rotor in such a fashion that the point are JUST opening. THis should get the engine to at least fire off, if not run enough to fine tune the distro.

DJ
FL

I took my leaking carb back to the fellow that rebuilt it. He took
it apart and said there was nothing wrong with it. But he did adjust
the float a little. I put it back on the engine tonight and that did
the trick!

I then connected the choke, throttle cable, and proceeded to install
the plugs. I checked the oil filter and found it full of oil so I
assume that means the oil pump is operating. I understand the firing
order on my F134 is 1-2-4-3 and the cylinders are 1-2-3-4 from the
front of the vehicle. I'm not an engine mechanic but think that if I
pick any wire on the distributor cap and call it number one and
connect it to the #1 cylinder plug. I then go clockwise with wires
and connect to plugs 2, 4, and 3 with the remaing wires. Correct me
if I'm wrong.


Well, to make a long story short I couldn't get it to start. I
checked each plug for spark while my wife turned the engine over and
had spark. What else can I do?

Thanks,
John

I am involved with a Lacrosse team and we send email to the members from the
team email account on Yahoo. Many of them have Hot Mail, AOL and AIM
addresses. It seems that since anyone can get a Yahoo email address Yahoo
gets black listed quite often by AOL, AIM and Hot Mail. I have taken to
sending the team emails out from my private email address and setting the
Yahoo address as the return address. It's a real pain.



Ric -.
Toledo, Ohio
Home of the World Famous JeepR




1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo
1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue
1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy
1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer.
1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612
1963-5? - Wagoneer
1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt
1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L
2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery Vehicle



Never Forget September 11, 2001
Freedom isn't free

<>

**
** Constants Aren't ****
** Variables Won't ****
**

_____

From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of WillysTech
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 1:37 AM
To: WillysTech@...
Cc: mathman@... >> David
Subject: Re: [WT] Bouncing messages - moderator listening?



David:

I have temporarily changed the mvpimages link to a tinyurl.com link to
see if this solves your issue.

How did mvpimages (can't type the full url or the almighty spam assassin
will kick this message) get on the spam list? Well it seems that anyone
can add a domain to the spam list and no one checks to see if the claim
is indeed valid. A domain is deemed guilty of sending spam without any
proof required from the accuser. It is then up to the accused party to
first discover that they are now on the list and then they have to send
some proof that they are indeed not a spammer to be removed from the
list.. Excuse me while I laugh madly. Ok I'm back. Now excuse me again
while I now laugh madly at your ISP for using this method of madness as
a means of "protecting" you from spam. Hold on, I'm not back yet as I
have to laugh once again.

Most ISP's offer a means of allowing you to "opt-out" out of their
"foolproof" means of protecting you from spam. If yours does not...then
they should start. How many other legitimate emails have they decided
you should not be allowed to view? I guess you will never know!!! =-O

OK...I'm off my soapbox. David, let me know if this solution works for
you .

Mark
WillysTech (AKA "Spammers 'R Us")

David Hoelzeman wrote:

Well, I've annoyed Yahoo and my e-mail provider about not receiving the
e-mails - so far no resolution. Except for Yahoo saying they're
bouncing (even though I'm not listed as bouncing.) And the bouncing is
only affecting messages from WillysTech, not FSJ-List, which seems to
imply it's specific to something in WillysTech. The message snippet I
get from Yahoo on the error is:

"Remote host said: 552 5.2.0 66.218.67.49 URL in message blacklisted.
See . <> org <.

<> org>"

Unless I'm reading this wrong it seems to indicate a URL IN the message
is blacklisted, causing the message to bounce at the e-mail server.
Running a check on the various URL domains in the message footer I get
this:

====================================================
mvpimages.net is 69.36.8.10 [ rbl lookup ]
domain registered: unknown [ full whois ]

RBL: skipping uri lookups on ip-based RBLs
URIBL: multi.surbl.org: listed [Blocked, mvpimages.net on
lists [ws], See: . <>

org/lists.html

<. <> org/lists.html>]
URIBL: multi.uribl.com: not listed [ report ]
====================================================

Guess this is a question for Mark - any idea why mvpimages.net has
gotten itself blacklisted? Any chance that URL could be temporarily
removed from the e-mail footer and see if I start getting the e-mails?

Thanks,

David
'50 $WD Pickup

On Wed, 19 Sep 2007 18:03:16 -0400, Mighty Mo wrote:

My messages get through because "I'm a nice guy" <VBG>

lol - unfortunately my webhosting service probably doesn't think that
I'm a nice guy currently. If this plays out like I think it's going to
I'll be looking for a new hosting service for my sites. We'll see....

David
'50 4WD Pickup

David,



My messages get through because "I'm a nice guy" <VBG>



Ric -.
Toledo, Ohio
Home of the World Famous JeepR




1948 - CJ2A L134 - #149488 - Mighty Mo
1948 - CJ2A L134 - #156174 - Ole Blue
1948 - CJ2A 225 V6 - #184134 - Willy
1950 - T3-C - #16517 Bantam Trailer.
1953 - CJ3A L134 453-GB1-18612
1963-5? - Wagoneer
1982 - M416 - Still 24 Volt
1989 - XJ - Cherokee Laredo -4.0L
2004 - Dodge Durango 4x4 w/car trailer - WRV(tm) - Willys Recovery Vehicle



Never Forget September 11, 2001
Freedom isn't free

<>

**
** Constants Aren't ****
** Variables Won't ****
**

_____

From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of David Hoelzeman
Sent: Wednesday, September 19, 2007 2:13 AM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] Bouncing messages - moderator listening?



Got this message twice - once through the yahoo group address and once
on the one you copied to me. So far so good. Another interesting
oddity - Mighty Mo Ric's messages have been making it through
regardless. Not sure why.

How did mvpimages (can't type the full url or the almighty spam assassin

There were three mvp.... domains on the list I located earlier. The
other two related to you? Can't remember exactly what the rest of the
name was.

list.. Excuse me while I laugh madly. Ok I'm back. Now excuse me again
while I now laugh madly at your ISP for using this method of madness as
a means of "protecting" you from spam. Hold on, I'm not back yet as I
have to laugh once again.

Yeah, it is a joke. The "owners" of the list claim that they don't
block e-mail - they just provide the list to the people running the
mail servers and they decide what to do with it. The spam controls I
have access to on the hosting site are all turned off. But their use
of the blacklists take place prior to it getting to that filter - I
think. We'll see what they come up with in the next few days but I
can't fathom any reasonable reason for rejecting a message just because
it contains a "bad" url IN the message - that's just plain stupid.

OK...I'm off my soapbox. David, let me know if this solution works for
you .

I'll keep an eye on it for the next few days and compare what shows up
in my inbox with what's showing up on Yahoo and let you know. Thanks!

David
'50 $WD Pickup

To find the top Dead Center you might put a piece of
bent coathanger wire down the spark plug hole and
angle it fairly sharply, over towards the number one piston.

Once you find where the piston is exactly rocking over
at the top of its stroke. Then you will have one of two things.
Find the factory mark, or mark that position of the front pulley's
position relative to a chalk mark on the timing cover.
1]
You are now at the correct position for the firing of #1 piston.
or
2]
You are at the correct position for the firing of piston #4
This would be what many describe as being,
"180 degrees out of ignition timing"

No problem real problem here.
You now could try several things.

[a] place the wifes finger, gently, in the spark plug hole
of number one cylinder. (about 12mm)
Place a big socket on the front pulley nut and you turn the
engine over about a quarter turn... slowly.
You should feel a slight suction as the #1 piston goes down
the cylinder. The idea is, that the finger will just go into the
spark plug hole by about 1/2 inch and make weak seal, so
that you cay "feel" the vacuum slightly !
There is nothing a half inch in that part of the engine, that can
mutilate your finger ...especially, since your turning the crank,
by hand, about 1/4 turn or less !

Now, this test would indicate that the two valves are closed &
#1 piston is at the correct position of it's firing stroke.

Now check to see where the rotor button is pointing to one of
4 towers on the distr. cap. That is where you would place a
wire going to #1 spark plug.

Following the direction the distr. turns... the very next wire will go to
spark plug number #3 Then a wire to #4 and then the last tower
goes to #2 plug.

If there's NO "slight" suction at all. Then, rock the front engine
pulley back to the Top Dead Center position again.

Now do the same vacuum test and place a finger down piston
#4 hole . If that piston is showing suction, then turn the engine
over one complete 360 degree turn ...to get to the correct
firing stroke for #1 piston.
Other's, have described where the rotor button will point
when the points just start to open.


You could actually run the engine by starting the wiring at
the piston #4 position.
You would have to re-route the spark plug wires, which works
but would be sort off bass akwards. <;-o If you get my drift !

Things that might trip you up are;
The crankshaft will turn twice while the distributor turns only
once.
Use a coathager or better yet a softer piece of elect building
wire with the isulation removed to find TDC.
Or, do you know where the timing marks are on the crank
pulley or on the flywheel ? ( I just forget at the moment)
The marks indicate either the firing position or TDC.
Either way, you will be quite close to TDCenter

Make sure you are turning the engine the correct direction !
If your not sure, look at the fan blades.
Correct rotation, they will slice into the air to help pull the
air in through the radiator.

If none of this makes sense, then it could be that I added far too
less tomato juice to my beer !

Robbo

I think a very interesting idea, although not something I am considering for
my Willys.



However, in a previous job I was working on using a stirling engine (close
to a hot-air engine) for use in a bus, so that explains my interest.



Disadvantage of connecting the electrical motor to either the front or rear
axle is the added unsprung weight, and that the asymmetric weight of the
E-motor on the axle will cause the axle to rotate (leaf springs are flexible
by the nature of the beast). And adding more weight to the axle will also
increase the tendency of the axle “to jump around the place” when the road
gets worse. For me it would be a NoNo to add any substantial weight directly
to the axle.



But what about this? There may be another point to connect the E-motor to.
And that is the end of the transmission (of the T90). There you can connect
an overdrive to, so an electrical motor should also be possible. The E-motor
would always be spinning, but depending on the mode, it would act as a
generator to load the batteries, or as the engine driving the car alone or
even in combination with the gasoline engine. Extra boost! Extra advantage:
the E-motor is not connected to the axle.



Stay in touch, very interested to hear where it will be going, and I am sure
the Willys Gods will smile at the experiment.



Robert

Sweden

Willys M38A1, 1955



_____

Fr?n: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] F?r
Tobias Gogolin
Skickat: den 18 september 2007 19:45
Till: WillysTech@...
?mne: [WT] Idea going round in my head... [Hybrid conversion]



Hey everybody!
I'm new to this list, just subscribed, and im happy to see how active this
group is!

With rising fuel prizes and all I have been thinking...
What if I removed the rear drive shaft and placed an electric motor there

Then I could drive on batteries for the short local hauls
and when I run down the battery I can simply lock the front hubs and
continue driving with the normal motor...

Anybody ever try that?

I have an 84 CJ7 with the 4.2l inline 6

--
Tobias Gogolin
cel. (646) 124 32 82
skype: moontogo
messenger: usertogo@hotmail. <mailto:usertogo%40hotmail.com> com

You develop an open source motor controller at
. <> yahoo.com/group/GoBox







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mine came with allen drivers and screw drivers. I would think that standard 3/8" allens, for ratchet wrench, would work.
Keith

Thanks for this idea. Didn't think of that and I've got an impact
driver. Is there an Allen driver attachment?

rf

I use an Impact Driver like this, . Mine will work with screw, allen or nut driver attachments.
Keith

Hello Rodney,
You could drill the head off, remove hub then get on the remaining with vise grips.

Arkhunter
48 CJ2A
283 Chevy

John,

No, because I don't have one. I thought about this approach but the
reality of my situation didn't allow for it. Maybe a local rental
agency would have the equipment. This raises another question: since
the bolt head accepts an 1/8th inch Allen wrench, will an air impact
wrench have a tool that will work?

Having asked that question, I realized that one of my stops after work
this afternoon is at a local auto parts dealer who also rents equipment.
That question will probably get answered then.

rf

Have you tried an air impact wrench?

Johnb

--- In WillysTech@..., "Frey, Rodney" <rodfrey@...> wrote:

Good Morning,



This group is a wonderful source for advice and support when we

novices

run into problems. And I have run into a problem.



The 46CJ2A had Superwinch lockout hubs when I bought it. There is

no

way to know when they were installed or how long since they were

last

removed. I need to get them off so I can work on the brakes. The

hubs

are bolted on with six hardened steel Allen head bolts. As one

might

expect, all of the bolts came loose except one. I have used PB

Blaster

on it, tapped on it, ruined two L-shaped Allen wrenches, bought a

new

T-handle one last night that didn't do the job, gently heated the

hub

hoping that differential expansion rates would provide some help.
Bottom line: bolt is still in the hub.



Question: What advice can you offer to get this stubborn bolt out?





Rodney Frey

46 CJ2A

48CJ2A

North Newton, KS 67117







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Benjamin are you high jacking this thread?

The CJ is nearly complete. Life has gotten in the way of the final
nuts and bolts, but she's up and running, stopping and turning. So
far all systems are go. Pictures to be released soon.

I will probably submit an article to WCW to include in their great
newsletter.

Jim Russell
Woodside, CA
'56 PU L6-226
'50 CJ-3A L4-134

--- In WillysTech@..., Benjamin Deasis <bens33ford@...>
wrote:

Jim,
Thanks for the follow up.
How is that CJ coming along?




Benjamin N. CA.
58 2 WD wagon "under construction"

63 4 WD sedan delivery "Parkway"

action=view&id=828

33 Ford Cabriolet

1951 Parkway, 1958 Rambler, 2002 Tbird Roadster
...
95 Harley



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Jim,
Thanks for the follow up.
How is that CJ coming along?




Benjamin N. CA.
58 2 WD wagon "under construction"

63 4 WD sedan delivery "Parkway"

33 Ford Cabriolet

1951 Parkway, 1958 Rambler, 2002 Tbird Roadster

95 Harley