开云体育

I'm listening Rick. . . and also trying to get a mental picture. The answer is, you could design a
switch. What form does the groove on the reverse rail have. (If you used a ball indent, would it
be able to climb back out, when you shifted? Another possibility would be a normally closed to
ground circuit (though I don't know how good an electrical connection you would get to the greasy
rail). Worth thinking about anyway. There's got to be an engineer or two on the list.

Reed (CA)

--- Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:

From: Rick48CJ2A@...

Since we have devoted so much of today to the T-90 gear shift control I will
throw out one more question.

On the reverse shifter rail there is a boss molded into the control housing.
On the reverse shifter rod there is a groove cut that would end up directly
under the boss when the shifter is in reverse. Has anyone ever drilled a
hole in this boss and mounted a switch to provide backup lights for their
Willys. If so, do you remember what switch you used.

I'm tired of people trying to hit me because they can't see that I'm backing
up. They have gotten so used to looking for the light that they don't bother
looking for the vehicle to move any more.

Rick S (TX)
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Rick,
Keep in mind that I copied this from a 1952 RESTRICTED Security
Information Department of the Airforce Technical Order TO 19-75CAJ-2.

So when it says to remove the second and high speed shifter shaft and
remove the low and reverse speed shifter, one can only assume it is to
thoroughly confuse the commies that at trying to get a disabled M-38
back across the Yalu.

I just copied the TO and it is apparently in error. Can you imagine the
wasted time in some motor pool while some poor soul tried to figure that
one out without asking sarg? He would just say "what the hell does the
manual say? NOW DO IT!!!"

Under disassembly:
Remove shifter fork pins from the second and high-speed shifter fork and the
low and reverse speed shifter fork. Remove the two 3/8-inch countersunk head
pipe plugs. Slide the second and high-speed gears shifter shaft from
gearshift control housing and remove low and reverse speed shifter fork. >

Did you mean to say, "Slide the second and high-speed gears shifter shaft
from gearshift control housing and remove second and high speed shifter fork"

I think probably so.
Remove gearshift rail hole expansion plugs. >

I have no idea what gearshift rail hole expansion plugs are. I can't find
them in my manual and I can't find anything on my shifter that looks like
this. Can you elaborate for me.

These are a little soft plug that goes in the aft ends of the shifter
rail holes to keep grease in and dirt and water out.

How about removal of the shift lever spring and shift lever. I assume that I
did it right when I removed it but it would be nice to know for sure.

The manual doesn't say, but it seems if you get all the other stuff out
of the tower case, then you just unscrew the cap and remove the shift
lever. I don't think it will come out unless you have one or maybe both
of the shifter shafts removed.

<Now clean and inspect.

Inspect the transmission case and gearshift control housing for cracks or
damage of any kind. Any cracked or otherwise damaged units must be replaced.

Replace the gearshift control housing if it is cracked or has stripped
threads. >

I'm thinking that if I had the expansion plugs, I would then have threads,
otherwise I can't find any threads on my gearshift control housing. Are
there other ones that I'm missing?

The only threads would be for the shift lever cap and for the plugs in
the front of the shifter shaft rail holes and there is a screw that
holds the interlock plunger in the case, I think.

<Replace the gearshift lever if it is excessively worn or bent. Replace the
gearshift control-housing cap if it is bent or has stripped threads. >

Above when you mentioned the Gearshift control housing were you speaking of
the entire assembly right?

Correct.

Now with the control housing cap are you speaking of just the housing
without the internals right?

Speaking of just the cap that holds the shift lever.

<Replace the 3/8-inch countersunk head pipe plugs if the threads are
stripped. >

Again I'm assuming we are talking about something I don't have.

These are in the front of the shifter shaft rail holes to keep out water
and dirt and keep grease in.

<Replace the gearshift lever support spring if it is cracked or distorted.
Replace the poppet balls and poppet ball springs if they are worn, broken, or
distorted.>

Good, but I like Reed's idea of replacing them any way because they are cheap.

I would totally agree on that one, especially if you were able to get a
good quality ball and spring.

<On to assembly of subassemblies:
Assemble Gearshift Control Housing. Install new gearshift rail hole
expansion plugs into shifter shaft holes in end of gearshift control housing.>

We've been through this one before.

I think right here would be a good time to reinstall the Shift Lever and the
shift lever spring. Please tell me there is an easier way than the way I did
it. I tried for about an hour and a half the first time I removed it to put
it in by screwing it in. I finally gave up on that approach and pressed the
spring back down over the keepers using two large screw drivers. Is there an
easy way to do this?

I am not aware of any keepers. I just have the shaft with a fulcrum
pivot ball held to the shaft with a pin, then a spring with a washer on
top, all held down by a metal cap that screws down on the threaded top
of the tower. There is also a gasket under the cap. We must have
something a little different here.

<Insert poppet ball springs and poppet balls into gearshift control housing
while housing is placed upside down. Depress poppet ball and poppet ball
spring, and insert the low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft into the
gearshift control housing. >

I found a blunt ended 1/4" shaft to work very well for this. I do not
recommend using something with a point on the end because it can slip off the
ball too easily.

Yessiree!!!!

<Depress the other poppet ball and poppet ball spring; install the second and
high-speed gears shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing. Install
the second and high-speed shifter fork onto the second and high speed gears
shifter shaft. Install the low and reverse speed shifter fork onto the low
and reverse speed gears shifter shaft. Secure both shifter forks onto the
shifter shafts with shifter fork pins. Flange the ends of the gearshift fork
pins with a center punch. Install 3/8-inch countersunk head pipe plugs in
ends of gearshift control housing.>

I noticed that these head pipe plugs are only installed in the front end of
the gear shifter control assembly. Yet there are two holes just like the
front ones in the back. All three shifters I have seen so far have been full
of dirt and grease in these back two holes with no covers installed. Would
it be possible to add two more plugs to the back to keep out the dirt or are
these used like a vent.

This was answered above.

Wonderful write-up Ron. We are all in your debt. Thanks for the help.

AW SHUCKS---Twas nothing. except my wrists are still sore. I really
need a scanner.

Glad to help,
Ron, IA
43GPW, 51M38

PS-you should have seen me building top loader 39 gearboxes for my 40
Ford with the 324 Olds in front and the Zeypher rear end. At least 3 a
month. Almost 40 years ago. There is a nineteen and a twenty-one tooth
deal that can stop you going off the jacks. Don't ask.

Terry,

Welcome to the list! Would you be able to get some pictures of
the winch, bumper, and pto drive shaft?? I have a 8,000 lbs Bradon
(brand new) that I'm going to put on my Willys wagon. Since I'm
going to have to build my own, I'd like to make it like the old
ones.

Thanks,
Landen Schooler
'62 1/2 Wagon
'61 pickup
'52 wagon


<<<<WOW NEAT>>>>

Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:

On the reverse shifter rail there is a boss molded into the control housing.
On the reverse shifter rod there is a groove cut that would end up directly
under the boss when the shifter is in reverse. Has anyone ever drilled a
hole in this boss and mounted a switch to provide backup lights for their
Willys. If so, do you remember what switch you used.

Hey Rick, I don't know about anyone else but I'd be REAL interested
if you could figure out a way to make that work. I've thought about
it a little but haven't come up with anything worth mentioning.

Merl, Tejas

I got the balls out. The replacement balls were smaller that the balls that were in the tower. Both springs were broken. I got replacement springs from a friend, we have no ideal what they came out of. We used a punch to press down on the ball and spring and moved the shift rail forward. I should say I used the large balls. After the T-90 was installed it is stiff to shift. Have not driven it enough to give future information.

Looking forward to the T-18 instructions. I did replace the rear seal to stop an oil leak. There has to be a better way to remove the seal than the way I did it.

Again thanks for the good instruction on the T-90 rebuild. When you get the Shift tower instructions I will complete that.

John D. (OK)
M-38

HI I AND FROM CALIFORNIA AND MY NAME IS JESSE. I OWN A 64 WILLY'S CJ5 THAT AT
THE MOMENT I HAVE TORN APART CAUSE THERE WAS EXTREME RUSTING AT THE BODY
MOUNTING POINTS. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW IF ANY OF YOU KNOW HOW I COULD REPLACE
JUST THE MOUNTING RAILS ON THE TUB. SO THAT I DON'T HAVE TO BUY A NEW TUB.
AND KNOW THAT YOU ALL KNOW ABOUT ME COULD YOU PLEASE TELL ME ABOUT YOU AND
WHAT WILLY'S YOU DRIVE SO THAT I DON'T START OF LOST TALKING TO YOU.

THANKS, JESSE

Rick, did you catch Ron's contribution? Here it is again, just in case it slipped by:

Reed (CA)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------


--- "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook@...> wrote:

From: "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook@...>

Okay--here goes my typing skills on display. No scanner. I gather you
are talking about the shift tower only, as all else has pretty well be
covered by Rick's rebuild.

Under disassembly:
Remove shifter fork pins from the second and high speed shifter fork and
the low and reverse speed shifter fork. Remove the two 3/8-inch
countersunk head pipe plugs. Slide the second and high speed gears
shifter shaft from gearshift control housing and remove low and reverse
speed shifter fork. Remove poppet ball and gearshift poppet ball
spring. Slide the low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft from the
gearshift control housing; remove second and high speed shifter fork.
Remove poppet ball and poppet ball spring. Remove gearshift rail hole
expansion plugs.


Now clean and inspect.

Inspect the transmission case and gearshift control housing for cracks
or damage of any kind. Any cracked or otherwise damaged units must be
replaced.

Replace the gearshift control housing if it is cracked or has stripped
threads. Replace the gearshift lever if it is excessively worn or
bent. Replace the gearshift control housing cap if it is bent or has
stripped threads. Replace the second and high speed gears shifter shaft
and second and high speed shifter fork if they are excessively worn, or
if they are bent or distorted. Replace the low and reverse speed gear
shifter shaft and low and reverse speed shifter fork if they are
excessively worn, or if they are bent or distorted. replace the
3/8-inch countersunk head pipe plugs if the threads are stripped.
Replace the gearshift lever support spring if it is cracked or
distorted. Replace the poppet balls and poppet ball springs if they are
worn, broken, or distorted.

On to assembly of subassemblies:

Assemble Gearshift Control Housing. Install new gearshift rail hole
expansion plugs into shifter shaft holes in end of gearshift control
housing. Insert poppet ball springs and poppet balls into gearshift
control housing while housing is placed upside down. Depress poppet
ball and poppet ball spring, and insert the low and reverse speed gears
shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing. Depress the other
poppet ball and poppet ball spring; install the second and high speed
gears shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing. Install the
second and high speed shifter fork onto the second and high speed gears
shifter shaft. Install the low and reverse speed shifter fork onto the
low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft. Secure both shifter forks
onto the shifter shafts with shifter fork pins. Flange the ends of the
gearshift fork pins with a center punch. Install 3/8-inch countersunk
head pipe plugs in ends of gearshift control housing.

Whew!!!!! I gotta get back to working on the airplane. This typing is
hard on the wrists. Please note the conspicuous absence of pictures.

Hope this helps, as I see no technical or special "tips" anywhere in
this manual. It is just the "facts" as required in motor pool or
rebuild shops.

Ron, IA


Reed Cary wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>

Ron, I think we were looking to see both if there was some smart way of disassembly, and any
technical info one needed to know. (The set up on the side shifter is very touchy).

------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Since we have devoted so much of today to the T-90 gear shift control I will
throw out one more question.

On the reverse shifter rail there is a boss molded into the control housing.
On the reverse shifter rod there is a groove cut that would end up directly
under the boss when the shifter is in reverse. Has anyone ever drilled a
hole in this boss and mounted a switch to provide backup lights for their
Willys. If so, do you remember what switch you used.

I'm tired of people trying to hit me because they can't see that I'm backing
up. They have gotten so used to looking for the light that they don't bother
looking for the vehicle to move any more.

Rick S (TX)

Ron, Thanks for posting the instructions I've been looking for a set for a
while now. I'm going through the instructions now and I have a few questions.

<Ronald L. Cook wrote: Okay--here goes my typing skills on display. No
scanner. I gather you are talking about the shift tower only, as all else
has pretty well been covered by Rick's rebuild.

Under disassembly:
Remove shifter fork pins from the second and high-speed shifter fork and the
low and reverse speed shifter fork. Remove the two 3/8-inch countersunk head
pipe plugs. Slide the second and high-speed gears shifter shaft from
gearshift control housing and remove low and reverse speed shifter fork. >

Did you mean to say, "Slide the second and high-speed gears shifter shaft
from gearshift control housing and remove second and high speed shifter fork"
instead, and then the opposite below. I know you had to type all of this in
and sometimes things get switched around. I would also recommend extreme
caution at this point to prevent putting out an eye with an errant poppet
ball.

<Remove poppet ball and gearshift poppet ball spring. Slide the low and
reverse speed gears shifter shaft from the gearshift control housing; remove
second and high speed shifter fork. Remove poppet ball and poppet ball
spring. Remove gearshift rail hole expansion plugs. >

I have no idea what gearshift rail hole expansion plugs are. I can't find
them in my manual and I can't find anything on my shifter that looks like
this. Can you elaborate for me.

How about removal of the shift lever spring and shift lever. I assume that I
did it right when I removed it but it would be nice to know for sure.

<Now clean and inspect.

Inspect the transmission case and gearshift control housing for cracks or
damage of any kind. Any cracked or otherwise damaged units must be replaced.

Replace the gearshift control housing if it is cracked or has stripped
threads. >

I'm thinking that if I had the expansion plugs, I would then have threads,
otherwise I can't find any threads on my gearshift control housing. Are
there other ones that I'm missing?

<Replace the gearshift lever if it is excessively worn or bent. Replace the
gearshift control-housing cap if it is bent or has stripped threads. >

Above when you mentioned the Gearshift control housing were you speaking of
the entire assembly right? Now with the control housing cap are you speaking
of just the housing without the internals right?

<Replace the second and high speed gears shifter shaft and second and
high-speed shifter fork if they are excessively worn, or if they are bent or
distorted. Replace the low and reverse speed gear shifter shaft and low and
reverse speed shifter fork if they are excessively worn, or if they are bent
or distorted. >

Good

<Replace the 3/8-inch countersunk head pipe plugs if the threads are
stripped. >

Again I'm assuming we are talking about something I don't have.

<Replace the gearshift lever support spring if it is cracked or distorted.
Replace the poppet balls and poppet ball springs if they are worn, broken, or
distorted.>

Good, but I like Reed's idea of replacing them any way because they are cheap.

<On to assembly of subassemblies:
Assemble Gearshift Control Housing. Install new gearshift rail hole
expansion plugs into shifter shaft holes in end of gearshift control housing.>

We've been through this one before.

I think right here would be a good time to reinstall the Shift Lever and the
shift lever spring. Please tell me there is an easier way than the way I did
it. I tried for about an hour and a half the first time I removed it to put
it in by screwing it in. I finally gave up on that approach and pressed the
spring back down over the keepers using two large screw drivers. Is there an
easy way to do this?

<Insert poppet ball springs and poppet balls into gearshift control housing
while housing is placed upside down. Depress poppet ball and poppet ball
spring, and insert the low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft into the
gearshift control housing. >

I found a blunt ended 1/4" shaft to work very well for this. I do not
recommend using something with a point on the end because it can slip off the
ball too easily.

<Depress the other poppet ball and poppet ball spring; install the second and
high-speed gears shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing. Install
the second and high-speed shifter fork onto the second and high speed gears
shifter shaft. Install the low and reverse speed shifter fork onto the low
and reverse speed gears shifter shaft. Secure both shifter forks onto the
shifter shafts with shifter fork pins. Flange the ends of the gearshift fork
pins with a center punch. Install 3/8-inch countersunk head pipe plugs in
ends of gearshift control housing.>

I noticed that these head pipe plugs are only installed in the front end of
the gear shifter control assembly. Yet there are two holes just like the
front ones in the back. All three shifters I have seen so far have been full
of dirt and grease in these back two holes with no covers installed. Would
it be possible to add two more plugs to the back to keep out the dirt or are
these used like a vent.

Wonderful write-up Ron. We are all in your debt. Thanks for the help.

Rick S (TX)

Whew!!!!! I gotta get back to working on the airplane. This typing is hard
on the wrists. Please note the conspicuous absence of pictures.

Hope this helps, as I see no technical or special "tips" anywhere in this
manual. It is just the "facts" as required in motor pool or rebuild shops.

Ron, IA

In a message dated 6/26/99 9:51:15 PM Central Daylight Time,
jandb@... writes:

<< I got the balls out. The replacement balls were smaller that the balls
that were in the tower. Both springs were broken. I got replacement springs
from a friend, we have no ideal what they came out of. We used a punch to
press down on the ball and spring and moved the shift rail forward. I should
say I used the large balls. After the T-90 was installed it is stiff to
shift. Have not driven it enough to give future information.

Looking forward to the T-18 instructions. I did replace the rear seal to
stop an oil leak. There has to be a better way to remove the seal than the
way I did it.

Again thanks for the good instruction on the T-90 rebuild. When you get the
Shift tower instructions I will complete that.

John D. (OK)
M-38

-------------------- >>
John,
I'm glad things worked out for you. Those springs and balls should be cheap
and in most Willys it's pretty easy to get the tower back off. I suggest
going ahead and ordering new ones and change them when you get the chance.
Ron has just posted instructions for the tower and I'm going through them
now. I'll let you know how it works out.

Rick S (TX)

Dear Friends,

This morning I came across some info that was
previously requested on the list. Somebody wanted to
know how to externally tell an AMC 304 from a 360. I
don't remember seeing an answer yet.

On the right bank valve cover, there should be a metal
tag on one end with a 6 digit code. Sorry, it didn't
specify the forward or aft end. If the fourth digit
is an H, then it is a 304. If the fourth digit is N,
then it is a 360. A caveat, however, because it is
possible the valve covers are not original.

A second, more positive method was mentioned. On both
sides of the block, 304 or 360 should be cast between
the first and second freeze plugs.

This data came from 1968 and 1971 Gladiator Truck
manual supplements for the engines. Hopefully this
info would apply to all AMC engines, not just truck
models.

If you are interested in them, they are available at
Vintage Books here in town. They will gladly take
phone orders and ship to you.



Hope this helps,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA







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Scott,
I sometimes have the opportunity to get to DM and would be very interested
in what these salvage yards have. If you are on a picture trip, I'd like to
see some-ok all of the pictures you take. Good hunting!
-rus

The roll cage is home made but it was in the jeep when I bought it

Frank,
I'm sorry to say your T-case did not get done today. I removed the OD's
planetary gear and separated the tranny and T-case. Since I didn't follow
the directions on this separation the main shaft slipped out of the front
main gear and the pilot bearings took a tumble. You know what a fondness I
have for T-90s and before I knew it, it was completely disassembled and
cleaned.

Since I had it apart I figured I might as well give it a quick inspection
before I put it back together. Here is your needed parts list.

1 Small parts kit
2 Gasket kit
3 Front main bearing (Optional)
4 Rear main bearing (Optional)
5 Syncronizers (Marginal)
6 Reverse idler gear and shaft (One tooth broken 1/3 off and wobbles)
7 and of course the poppet springs and balls
This tranny is in very good condition. There is minimal wear on the cluster
gear's 1st gear ring. The first/reverse gear has very minor chips on both
faces. The front and rear surfaces of it are not very well machined so I
think it is after-market. The mainshaft and front main gear show no wear or
damage. Of course all of this was just a quick cursory inspection. I went
ahead and reassembled it so it would be easier to store until you're ready
for it.

I'll try to get to the t-case tomorrow if Momma allows it. It's awfully hot
outside and she won't let me bring greasy parts inside until I get them
clean. Go figure. :-) This means the tranny and AA V-8 adapter are stored
in the basement now. :-)

Rick S (TX)

That really is a nice looking Dodge Frank. I'd think that the owner would
have to watch for termites though.....

- Jerry

'46 CJ-2a #53681 (in many pieces)

Merci beaucoup, Ron. Sure Rick will be pleased.

Reed (CA)

--- "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook@...> wrote:

From: "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook@...>

Okay--here goes my typing skills on display. No scanner. I gather you
are talking about the shift tower only, as all else has pretty well be
covered by Rick's rebuild.

Under disassembly:
Remove shifter fork pins from the second and high speed shifter fork and
the low and reverse speed shifter fork. Remove the two 3/8-inch
countersunk head pipe plugs. Slide the second and high speed gears
shifter shaft from gearshift control housing and remove low and reverse
speed shifter fork. Remove poppet ball and gearshift poppet ball
spring. Slide the low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft from the
gearshift control housing; remove second and high speed shifter fork.
Remove poppet ball and poppet ball spring. Remove gearshift rail hole
expansion plugs.


Now clean and inspect.

Inspect the transmission case and gearshift control housing for cracks
or damage of any kind. Any cracked or otherwise damaged units must be
replaced.

Replace the gearshift control housing if it is cracked or has stripped
threads. Replace the gearshift lever if it is excessively worn or
bent. Replace the gearshift control housing cap if it is bent or has
stripped threads. Replace the second and high speed gears shifter shaft
and second and high speed shifter fork if they are excessively worn, or
if they are bent or distorted. Replace the low and reverse speed gear
shifter shaft and low and reverse speed shifter fork if they are
excessively worn, or if they are bent or distorted. replace the
3/8-inch countersunk head pipe plugs if the threads are stripped.
Replace the gearshift lever support spring if it is cracked or
distorted. Replace the poppet balls and poppet ball springs if they are
worn, broken, or distorted.

On to assembly of subassemblies:

Assemble Gearshift Control Housing. Install new gearshift rail hole
expansion plugs into shifter shaft holes in end of gearshift control
housing. Insert poppet ball springs and poppet balls into gearshift
control housing while housing is placed upside down. Depress poppet
ball and poppet ball spring, and insert the low and reverse speed gears
shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing. Depress the other
poppet ball and poppet ball spring; install the second and high speed
gears shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing. Install the
second and high speed shifter fork onto the second and high speed gears
shifter shaft. Install the low and reverse speed shifter fork onto the
low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft. Secure both shifter forks
onto the shifter shafts with shifter fork pins. Flange the ends of the
gearshift fork pins with a center punch. Install 3/8-inch countersunk
head pipe plugs in ends of gearshift control housing.

Whew!!!!! I gotta get back to working on the airplane. This typing is
hard on the wrists. Please note the conspicuous absence of pictures.

Hope this helps, as I see no technical or special "tips" anywhere in
this manual. It is just the "facts" as required in motor pool or
rebuild shops.

Ron, IA


Reed Cary wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>

Ron, I think we were looking to see both if there was some smart way of disassembly, and any
technical info one needed to know. (The set up on the side shifter is very touchy).

------------------------------------------------------------------------
_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/
WillysTech

NEW! Parts Buy/Sell/Swap Board

Vehicle FAQ Sheets

Parts Resource List

_/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/ _/

===



_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at

Good point, rick. I have not used synthetic oil in my jeep. I'll let you know
how things go once I get a chance to work on it again.

Thanks again,
Mike/Utah/CJ2A

Rick48CJ2A@... wrote:

Vern -

Just got back from Colo springs and will check the distibutor as soon as I
can get to it.

Thx,
Mike/Utah/CJ2A

K. R. wrote:

Okay--here goes my typing skills on display. No scanner. I gather you
are talking about the shift tower only, as all else has pretty well be
covered by Rick's rebuild.

Under disassembly:
Remove shifter fork pins from the second and high speed shifter fork and
the low and reverse speed shifter fork. Remove the two 3/8-inch
countersunk head pipe plugs. Slide the second and high speed gears
shifter shaft from gearshift control housing and remove low and reverse
speed shifter fork. Remove poppet ball and gearshift poppet ball
spring. Slide the low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft from the
gearshift control housing; remove second and high speed shifter fork.
Remove poppet ball and poppet ball spring. Remove gearshift rail hole
expansion plugs.


Now clean and inspect.

Inspect the transmission case and gearshift control housing for cracks
or damage of any kind. Any cracked or otherwise damaged units must be
replaced.

Replace the gearshift control housing if it is cracked or has stripped
threads. Replace the gearshift lever if it is excessively worn or
bent. Replace the gearshift control housing cap if it is bent or has
stripped threads. Replace the second and high speed gears shifter shaft
and second and high speed shifter fork if they are excessively worn, or
if they are bent or distorted. Replace the low and reverse speed gear
shifter shaft and low and reverse speed shifter fork if they are
excessively worn, or if they are bent or distorted. replace the
3/8-inch countersunk head pipe plugs if the threads are stripped.
Replace the gearshift lever support spring if it is cracked or
distorted. Replace the poppet balls and poppet ball springs if they are
worn, broken, or distorted.

On to assembly of subassemblies:

Assemble Gearshift Control Housing. Install new gearshift rail hole
expansion plugs into shifter shaft holes in end of gearshift control
housing. Insert poppet ball springs and poppet balls into gearshift
control housing while housing is placed upside down. Depress poppet
ball and poppet ball spring, and insert the low and reverse speed gears
shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing. Depress the other
poppet ball and poppet ball spring; install the second and high speed
gears shifter shaft into the gearshift control housing. Install the
second and high speed shifter fork onto the second and high speed gears
shifter shaft. Install the low and reverse speed shifter fork onto the
low and reverse speed gears shifter shaft. Secure both shifter forks
onto the shifter shafts with shifter fork pins. Flange the ends of the
gearshift fork pins with a center punch. Install 3/8-inch countersunk
head pipe plugs in ends of gearshift control housing.

Whew!!!!! I gotta get back to working on the airplane. This typing is
hard on the wrists. Please note the conspicuous absence of pictures.

Hope this helps, as I see no technical or special "tips" anywhere in
this manual. It is just the "facts" as required in motor pool or
rebuild shops.

Ron, IA


Reed Cary wrote:

--- Frank Wood <ftwood@...> wrote:

At the moment I can't think of

a single vehicle on this planet I would rather have than this one. <<

Easy to see why, Frank. It's almost like a lodge inside.

Reed (CA)
===



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