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--- Jordan Franklin <franklin@...> wrote:

I also noticed a series of "A"'s punched in the top of the block in
various places. Is this some kind of code?

That's a good one! Landon, where are you? Ever seen anything like that?

Reed (CA)
===



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--- Reed Cary <recary@...> wrote:

From: Reed Cary <recary@...>



--- Merl <hollowel@...> wrote:

This stuff doesn't hide bodywork imperfections
near as well as flat, but it should be a lot

easier to keep clean.

Know what you are saying here, Merl. But just on a
point of taste (not relating to what you've
said) I like the old roughness of a jeep body. I
made a point of *not* bondo'ing the spot welds,
for example. Body people like to "skim" the body,
thus removing all these small imperfections.
My feeling is, hey it's a jeep and that primative
character is part of it.

My $0.02,

Reed (CA)
===

Ah, yes, now Vern enters the equation:

I, too, am somewhat partial to all the spotwelds, etc.
In the course of my crimes against autobody repair, I
got to wondering about these original marks.

Specifically, I did some minor repair to the top edge
of one of the fenders. After I got it all nice and
smooth, I realized I had faired over some but not all
of the spotwelds. It was quite noticeable when wet
with primer. I ended up letting it dry, and removed
some of the filler over the spotwelds so it wasn't so
obvious.

Two paragraphs later, my question: If you had to do
some bodywork directly over some of the spotwelds, how
could you make it not stand out? To see a row of
spotwelds stop and start up again can look kind of
funny. I'm not real picky about the bodywork, and
expect to get this jeep somewhat beat up and
scratched. But I do like to keep from drawing
attention to my obviously amateur bodywork. I had
even experimented sanding small circular depression to
match but it looked even worse.

In Deep Thought Again,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA
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when I got my shifter assembly from AA I recieved these two plates of steal and I have
no idea how they are installed.

arne

Merl wrote:

Rick,

Thanks for the thoughts on the extra head gasket. The head warp
had not occurred to me, I will have to check it out. I did check
and the serial number is stamped in the top of the water pump boss.
I also noticed a series of "A"'s punched in the top of the block in
various places. Is this some kind of code?

Thanks again,

Jordan

Arne Anderson wrote:

From: Arne Anderson <[email protected]>

I have a question about the two oval shaped metal pieces that surround the
shifter on the jeep model overdrive(you can see them on page nine of the manual
posted). I can't figure how these things wrap down the side of the transmission
cover. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated as I still just have a
hole and it isn't very clean looking. thanks

arne

I didn't even know that those things existed! I always thought
that a jeeper with an OD was *supposed* to have an ugly hole in the
transmission cover. Are you trying to figure out how to make them
or can you actually get these parts from AA?
--

"Never pound on the threaded ****
end of *anything*!" ** **
** mailto:hollowel@... **
Merl ****

rburk1@... wrote:

From: rburk1@...

All this talk of overdrives and PTO's is making me jealous. Under my
current arrangement, I will have only 2 shift levers - 1 Tranny and 1
Transfer case.

Anyone have an idea where I can get a PTO for a Muncie SM 465?

I picked one up from a bone yard here for my SM420 that had quite a few
in a back room from various trannies. Just make sure you know the tooth
pattern, etc. and start calling around. I'd also expect them to still be
commercially available since the SM465 was produced rather late (may
still be for all I know).

--
========================================
Jeff Gent, jeffgent@...
----------------------------------------

Ross Cook wrote:

From: "Ross Cook" <rc2ls@...>

What most refer to as Saginaw is the car type tranny with an externally
mounted shifter. The SM420 is a top loader integral shifter design. It
should have SM420 cast in the side.

Just to clarify -- I have two SM420's and neither have any casting
similar to SM420, they do have GM on the side, however. The primary
identifying factor is a big old top loader from a 60's GM/Chevy with a
7.05:1 unsynchronized first.

A tranny shop called these 'Super Muncie' but I've no clue.
--
========================================
Jeff Gent, jeffgent@...
----------------------------------------

--- Merl <hollowel@...> wrote:

This stuff doesn't hide bodywork imperfections
near as well as flat, but it should be a lot easier to keep clean.

Know what you are saying here, Merl. But just on a point of taste (not relating to what you've
said) I like the old roughness of a jeep body. I made a point of *not* bondo'ing the spot welds,
for example. Body people like to "skim" the body, thus removing all these small imperfections.
My feeling is, hey it's a jeep and that primative character is part of it.

My $0.02,

Reed (CA)
===



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--- Willys1955@... wrote:

From: Willys1955@...

what is the/where can i find the weight of my '55 cj-5? thanks a bunch in
advance
oh yeah, and here's an update:
for anyone who's missed/forgotten, i trakced down my granfather's '55 cj-5
way up north, and have repurchased it and will rebuild it frame-up. it is
now at my camp (further north than i bought it, about 300+ miles) where i've
been testing it around the logging trails. as soon as i can get back up, i'm
bringing it home

Weights: Shipping 2132 lb.

Curb 2243 lb.

Gross 3500 lb.

From: reprint of Kaiser Sevice Manual, SM-1002-R6, 1965

Reed (CA)
===



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Reed Cary wrote:

It might do well to point out here, that shooting high gloss enamel is a *totally* different ball
park from shooting flat enamel. Flat paints are very forgiving: just being able to touch up with a
spay can, should tell you that.

Reed (CA)
===

Very true. The flat green that came on my 2A hides all sorts of
ugliness in the bodywork. Under glossy paint those imperfections
just jump right out at you. The stuff I'm spraying on the M38A1
is a semi-gloss, and rattle can touch up has worked out surprisingly
well for me so far. This stuff doesn't hide bodywork imperfections
near as well as flat, but it should be a lot easier to keep clean.

Good point about the thinners too. The Primer I've been shooting
specifies "acrylic lacquer thinner" which *isn't* the stuff that
you find at your local hardware megastore.
--

"Never pound on the threaded ****
end of *anything*!" ** **
** mailto:hollowel@... **
Merl ****

--- Merl <hollowel@...> wrote:

What colors does it come in?

Mostly greens, browns, etc. Military colors. It wouldn't surprise
me if you could get military colors in gloss, Mark Johnson told me
that some 60's MVs had glossy paint but I don't have any personal
knowledge of the glossy stuff.

Is it enamel?

Yes.

Can you describe how you mix and spray the stuff?

The guy at Rapco where I bought it recommended thinning with
20% xzylene or toluline depending on the weather (when its hot
use whichever one doesn't evaporate as fast). I've been thinning
with xzylene. I've been spraying it with a knockoff HVLP gun
from Harbor Freight, I get the xzylene from Home Depot, and
clean up with normal paint thinner.

It might do well to point out here, that shooting high gloss enamel is a *totally* different ball
park from shooting flat enamel. Flat paints are very forgiving: just being able to touch up with a
spay can, should tell you that.

Reed (CA)
===



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--- jeffbonno@... wrote:

as for paint i use a lot of ace hardwares rust stop enamel with cheep lacqure
thinner. I don't know how this stuff will look in ten years but my delivery truck is holding up
fine and my delivery boys don't care how well it shines

This is precisely where you can get into deep trouble if you are using one of the name brand
automotive paints. Thinners are *very* important. If you look on the shelf of an automotive paint
store, you may find 3, 4, or more different thinners for a given paint. Don't try to mix brands!
"Lacquer Thinner" is a generic term. What you buy in the hardware store might contain just about
anything, including goodies which may lift previous paint. Note: there is a difference between
lacquer thinner and acrylic lacquer thinner, for example. (The cheap hardware store stuff is great
for cleaning the equipment, however) But if you are trying to do the best possible job, pay
attention to the temperature range of the thinner you buy. It is fairly critical, unless either
you know how to work around it, or don't care about orange peel.

Reed (CA)

===



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Todd Murray wrote:

From: Todd Murray <tmurray@...>

At 04:01 PM 6/22/99 -0500, you wrote:

From: Merl <hollowel@...>

- Military paint is cheap. $30 per gallon. In effect I can buy 3-5
gallons of this stuff for the price of one gallon of "normal" paint.
- Intended use. I intend to take this thing into the bush and I'm
not going to baby it. Being able to use a matching color rattle can
to make the latest scratch or scrape less noticeable or less prone to
rust really appeals to my cheesier nature. (The military colors come
in matching rattle cans, the Gilespe brand has a very good match with
the color that comes by the gallon.)

Painting my Wagon is pretty far down the list, but you've got me intrigued
with the idea of using Military paint. Where can I buy it?

Just about any military surplus or supply dealer. See
they carry the Arove brand,
you can also find the Gillespe brand at other places (I got mine from
Rapco).

What colors does it come in?

Mostly greens, browns, etc. Military colors. It wouldn't surprise
me if you could get military colors in gloss, Mark Johnson told me
that some 60's MVs had glossy paint but I don't have any personal
knowledge of the glossy stuff.

Is it enamel?

Yes.

Can you describe how you mix and spray the stuff?

The guy at Rapco where I bought it recommended thinning with
20% xzylene or toluline depending on the weather (when its hot
use whichever one doesn't evaporate as fast). I've been thinning
with xzylene. I've been spraying it with a knockoff HVLP gun
from Harbor Freight, I get the xzylene from Home Depot, and
clean up with normal paint thinner.

The only thing I don't like about it is that it takes a while to
cure completely. The guy at Rapco and others have told me it takes
4-5 months to *fully* cure, though you're able to handle it
without problems within 24 hours or less.
--

"Never pound on the threaded ****
end of *anything*!" ** **
** mailto:hollowel@... **
Merl ****

The battery on my 47 CJ-2A doesn't seem to be charging as fast as it should.
The battery is brand new although the battery store gave one that was low on
charge. I charged it up and fired up my Jeep. Then I checked the amount of
volts and my reader said the battery was putting out 6.7-6.9 volts. I also
checked the generator and that was putting out a steady 7.2 volts. After
about 30 minutes of running, the battery was at 7.1. I am totally ignorant
on 6-volt systems. Are these good numbers? Is there a way of determining if
the battery is crap? Could it be the voltage regulator? How can I determine
if it's the regulator?

Thanks,
Jerry Clough
Green Bay, WI

My Jeep's Motto:
It may not get you there in comfort.
It won't get you there fast.
But, I guarantee it will get you there.
--

To respond, try:
mailto:jclough@...

Also, check out

J.Lewis wrote:

From: "J.Lewis" <jumper@...>

I'm not sure about other states but here in Florida, if you want to register
the vehicle with the older plate, it must be original and unrestored. My
neighbor went to a lot of trouble to restore an older plate for his Model A
only to find out that he could not use the plate.

Jerry

In Michigan you can use any plate from the year of the (25 years or
older) vehicle as your "Historic Vehicle" plate, so restored ones are
just fine. I painted a 1954 plate for a friend's F-100 and I painted it
the same colors as the truck - not even close to the original colors of
the the plate - and he's had no problems.

I have a 1947 Michigan plate for my CJ-2A that I made from several old
plates bought at swap meets. Michigan plate numbers back then were
three sets of two characters, so I bought a few old plates to get the
characters I needed and welded myself up a new plate - so I now have a
1947 Michigan license plate that is number 47-CJ-2A. It looks totally
authentic and only those in the know get it!

I pretty much follow the same procedures outlined by others for
restoring old plates, except I hand paint the letters using lettering
quills (I'm a sign maker by trade).

Frank (MI)

I forgot to mention in my earlier reply that there is one alternative
version of the 29-tooth set-up, but it only involves the internal spline
count on the main drive gear, not the tooth pitch or the other transfer case
gears. The main drive gear in this version has more internal splines -- I
think the count is 10 instead of 6, and there is a different Warn overdrive
for this version. I think this version as used in factory-equipped V-6,
3-speed transmission models only, but there were so few 4-cylinder ones
after the V-6 came out in the mid-'60's that it's hard to verify for sure.

Chuck Pedretti wrote:

From: "Chuck Pedretti" <chuckp@...>

Thanks for the info - I will need to check my front to back distance among
other things. I have lots of valve cover clearance so I may need to move
the trans crossmember back closer to the stock location.

I'm hoping I don't have to uncenter my engine because this is the only way
the stock steering box will fit. (Plan to go to saginaw at some point but
I'd like to get it all together sometime this year).

I ran mine with the stock steering for a few years before doing the
Saginaw conversion. Everything fits, even with the engine offset to
the drivers side. You just need to copy what the factory did when
they put the V6 in the CJ5. Don't forget to check front driveshaft
clearance.

Another possibility may be switching pulleys, the stock 231 pulley has 3
belt grooves and is fairly long - if I can use a shorter one the problem
will go partially away. (Only need one belt anyway)

2 grooves if you want power steering.

Bill
47cj2a

I'm not sure about other states but here in Florida, if you want to register
the vehicle with the older plate, it must be original and unrestored. My
neighbor went to a lot of trouble to restore an older plate for his Model A
only to find out that he could not use the plate.

Jerry

--- Bradley Ethington <bneltran@...> wrote:

From: "Bradley Ethington" <bneltran@...>

Matt,
I recently bought an HP book that covers this very subject: "Classic Car
Restorer's Handbook" by Jim Richardson. He recommends taking the plates

to

an automotive paint store to match the color first with enamel, He then
suggests painting the letters in black lacquer and letting dry for 2

days.

You then apply the enamel directly over the lacquer, then take a

lint -free

rag with enamel reducer on it to wipe off the paint covering the letters
(before the enamel dries)
This sounds a little too involved and messy to me. I think I would

probably

paint the entire plate in the background color and letting it dry, then
sponge brush the black lettering in later. Have fun.
Brad49SW-NJ
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Phillimore <morephi@...>
To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...>
Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 11:23 PM
Subject: [WT] Restoring old License plates

From: "Matt Phillimore" <morephi@...>

I got a tag from the year my truck was manuactured, straight of the
wall of a Joplin, MO resturant! It's in pretty good shape, but has
some rust. I was considering beadblasting it, fixing the one little
dent and the knick in the edge, and re painting it. Is this a
good/bad idea? anyone done it, and how do you paint the raised
letters?

matt

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi all
I am in digest so I don't allways get to read up often. I went through the michigan mechanics certification program seventeen years ago and passed everything to be certified as a master mech. Then before I paid for the certification I changed employment. one of the reasons i got out of the car repair job was it was interfering my hobby (jeeps old fords ).
as to the paint it yourself thread. I have an older brother who paints cars as a second job but for the not critical stuff i do my own with a $39 cheep imitation of a binks paint gun i got at the swap meet. as for paint i use a lot of ace hardwares rust stop enamel with cheep lacqure thinner. I don't know how this stuff will look in ten years but my delivery truck is holding up fine and my delivery boys don't care how well it shines. My cj2 is for fun and a professinal paint job would make me cringe at every branch scrape. my 51 panel is another story it is blue metalic and white and was pro. done and perfect till the building fell on it and ruined the front foot or so of the roof. oh well i always said i got as much fun from working on it as driving it. this list is very informative and entertaining as well.
jeff in upper michigan
4 cj2a,s and a 51 panel

--

On Wed, 23 Jun 1999 06:46:06 Chuck Pedretti wrote:

From: "Chuck Pedretti" <chuckp@...>

Put the motor back in last night after bolting in the mounts and have the
following measurements.

My setup measures 4" from bottom of pulley to first point of contact, I am
running 2.5 rubicon express lift with the motor mounted level front to back
and centered between the frame rails. The front face of the pulley is
almost directly in line vertically with the front of the differential. My
Trans/tCase were not lowered at all, so the engine is sitting at what would
be stock height.

Questions:
1) Is it common to have to tilt the motor by making it sit higher in front?

I had to do this when I installed a Chevy II 153 cid engine in my CJ-3A. At first I tried to install the engine level, as a result it was too low and there were clearance problems with the front pumpkin - lower radiator hose, which got smashed several times. The carb was tilted to the front, too.

A good way to tell the correct tilt would be placing a bubble level on the intake manifold, with the carburetor removed. Hood clearance should be checked, too, with the carburetor + air filter assembly installed. Bellhouse to firewall clearance could be an issue, too.

Displacing the engine to the driver's side would help pumpkin to engine clearance, but could lead to steering system - exhaust manifold or header clearance.

I found the best way to fit my engine was cutting the stock mounts' rivets with a chisel, relocating them backwards, bolting them to the frame, and finding suitable rubber mounts to attach them to the engine's stock mounts. This would allow the engine to be displaced to the drivers side. Worked for an I-4, I don't know if it would work for a V-6 as there could be interference problems with the drivers side cylinder head - left fender.

2) This doesn't seem like much clearance considering the lift, but the limited AA directions didn't mention having to do anything more than what I did (aside from the fact that my motor is centered and AA wants you to jam it all the way to the drivers side) strangely enough if you follow the AA directions there is no way their mounts will work. The passenger side mount

would be about 2.5" too short and you would have to cut the drivers side mount off - as it sits their mounts are the perfect size to fit centered in

a CJ2 frame.

3) Anybody have any close up pictures of their engine bay with the Buick in it? If they are on the World Wide Wasteland please forward a URL.


Thanks to all

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