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Re: Restoring old License plates

Bradley Ethington
 

Matt,
I recently bought an HP book that covers this very subject: "Classic Car
Restorer's Handbook" by Jim Richardson. He recommends taking the plates to
an automotive paint store to match the color first with enamel, He then
suggests painting the letters in black lacquer and letting dry for 2 days.
You then apply the enamel directly over the lacquer, then take a lint -free
rag with enamel reducer on it to wipe off the paint covering the letters
(before the enamel dries)
This sounds a little too involved and messy to me. I think I would probably
paint the entire plate in the background color and letting it dry, then
sponge brush the black lettering in later. Have fun.
Brad49SW-NJ

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Phillimore <morephi@...>
To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...>
Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 11:23 PM
Subject: [WT] Restoring old License plates


From: "Matt Phillimore" <morephi@...>

I got a tag from the year my truck was manuactured, straight of the
wall of a Joplin, MO resturant! It's in pretty good shape, but has
some rust. I was considering beadblasting it, fixing the one little
dent and the knick in the edge, and re painting it. Is this a
good/bad idea? anyone done it, and how do you paint the raised
letters?

matt
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Re: T90 shaft lenght

Bill Lagler
 

Don Miller wrote:

From: "Don Miller" <dkmiller@...>

I'm sure this has been beat-to-death but until it is personally relevant,
info sometimes doesn't stick in memory...what are the 2 lengths? and what
size are the folks at JC Whitney selling? Mucho Gracious
---(0)IIIIII(0)---
Not sure what the actual lengths are but the short one is about
7 inches or so and the long one about 10.

Bill
47cj2a


Re: Buick 225/231 front axle clearance

Bill Lagler
 

Chuck Pedretti wrote:

From: Chuck Pedretti <ChuckP@...>

A question for those of you with factory and repower Buick V6's in your
CJ's. How much clearance do you have between the crank pulley and axle
pumpkin. A picture of mine is at http:&#92;&#92;staff.magenic.com&#92;chuckp&#92;engine.htm
at the bottom (note the custom oak tierod :) I am running a 2.5" lift and
was suprised at how close to the axle the pully is. It probabally won't hit
but I though I'd check to see what is normal.

Got my 2nd hand AA engine mounts and they look great as long as the part
which mounts to the frame is inverted.
I'll try to get some measurements from both of mine tonight.

Bill
47cj2a


Re: How do you remove the OD

Bill Lagler
 

Mark Johnson wrote:

From: Mark Johnson <mcj115@...>

All of this overdrive talk lately has made me wan to get one. I have a
lead on a Warn od for a deal. What I need to know is what tooth or spline
count would I have on my 66 CJ5 or my 64 CJ6. What do I need to look for
that is good or bad on the overdrives, which can I use, which are useless
to me? Thanks ahead of time.
You need a 29 tooth, 6 spline.

Bill
47cj2a


53 M38A1 Gear Ratio?

 

Morning All,

What were the gear ratio's available on a 53 M38A1? How can i tell which
ratio it has? Did they have id tags?

I have a gentleman who is interested in the D44 from my 62 CJ5...dont want to
sell him something that wont work for him.

Thanks for any input...

John B
45 MB


Re: Painting

Chuck Pedretti
 

Depends on your definition of painting. I painted my CJ with ZylaXolene
(expensive Rustoleum @$30 a gallon) with a brush. It leaves a suprizingly
glassy finish which was not exactly what I was going for, but it looks nice.
I had a hard time justifying much time or expense for something which will
be scratched up by the brush the first time I use it.
(look for yourself)

_________________________________
Chuck Pedretti MCSD, MCSE
Consultant
Magenic Technologies
mailto:chuckp@...
_________________________________

(46 CJ)
_________________________________

-----Original Message-----
From: Kendal Jackson [mailto:jacksoti@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 2:49 AM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WT] Painting


From: Kendal Jackson <jacksoti@...>

I was just wondering how many of you out there have painted your own
vehicles. I am seriously considering it but am unclear if it is worth
it. I
mean, does it cost you more in the long run? Is the frustration of
mistakes
enough to just pay someone to do it no matter what the cost?

I would really appreciate hearing your success/horror stories before I
think
too far down this path.

Also, what are some good resources for learning how to do it properly?

Kendal Jackson
--It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm
really quite busy--

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Re: Stuck in Digest Mode

 

Vern, Back when we first switched over to onelist I was stuck in a similar
worm hole and had to unsubscribe and then resubscribe to clear it up. I gave
it a few hours to update in between.

Rick S (TX)


Teenagers

 

In a message dated 6/22/99 7:20:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
prjohnso@... writes:

<<
Yep, I've got a 15 year old daughter, too. She wants a Jeep. I don't know
what I did right.
Luckily I have a good excuse to be on the computer at work.....

Peter >>

Yeah my 17 year old wanted a jeep until she got to be 16, then she wanted
something small and sporty. :-(

Rick S (TX)


Federal Law

 

In a message dated 6/22/99 2:05:36 AM Central Daylight Time, lox@...
writes:

<< Now, I'm not sure but I think
that it is a Federal Law that if you buy a compressor that you must purchase
at least three assessors for it within 30 days of the purchase. I'm in
compliance, (blaster, impact wrench, and air hammer) Hope this helps with
the wife. >>

I talked to my wife about this law this morning. She says that because I
bought the sandblaster and air-chuck the day before I bought the compressor,
they should count in my 30 days. She says that the law did not stipulate 30
days plus or minus from purchase date. Darn "loop holes". She even thinks
that the air hose and regulator should count as well. :-)

Oh well, she took my Harbor Freight catalog and ordered everything I had
circled in it for Father's Day. I certainly have nothing to complain about.
She's great.

Rick S (TX)


Painting

Kendal Jackson
 

I was just wondering how many of you out there have painted your own
vehicles. I am seriously considering it but am unclear if it is worth it. I
mean, does it cost you more in the long run? Is the frustration of mistakes
enough to just pay someone to do it no matter what the cost?

I would really appreciate hearing your success/horror stories before I think
too far down this path.

Also, what are some good resources for learning how to do it properly?

Kendal Jackson
--It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm
really quite busy--


Newby: How will I know I have the proper rear seat ?

 

I have recently inherited a 1957 CJ5 from my Dad. It does not have a rear
seat and I have posted requests for an original one just about anywhere I can
find on the net.

I have had several people say they have a seat that "will fit". If I am going
to all this trouble, I would like to get a proper one.

How will I know if it is the right seat? Are the military ones the same as
the civilian ones (other than upholstery?) Can anyone point me to books or
diagrams that show the proper seat and the correct mounting hardware?

Am I crazy to think I can find one?

I will bring the car back from New York in a few weeks and the first thing I
will do is have the brake fluid flushed (see I'm learning already) .

By the way, subject to Federal Law J-55692 CFR 15, it IS a requirement that
upon purchasing any Air compressor equipment that you are indeed required to
purchase at least three accessories within 30 days. (You have a full year
before you have to buy more) I have made my wife aware of this requirement
several times.

Garry Brown
Columbus Ohio


T90 shaft lenght

Don Miller
 

I'm sure this has been beat-to-death but until it is personally relevant,
info sometimes doesn't stick in memory...what are the 2 lengths? and what
size are the folks at JC Whitney selling? Mucho Gracious
---(0)IIIIII(0)---


T86 vrs T90

Don Miller
 

You are correct...it is not a direct replacement as I removed the T90 this
evening...1 hour and 40 minutes to remove the transfer case (quite heavy)
and maybe 30 more minutes for the T90...I suppose putting them back in will
take longer...is there a rule of thumb for something like this?
thanks
Don
---(0)IIIIII(0)---


Re: How do you remove the OD

Morris G. Hill
 

I think the 1-1/8" hole can be enlarged by a machine shop, though I
have not tried having that operation done. I think the 1-1/8" set-up is too
weak for the 6-226 or larger engines -- my 226 wagon trashed a new 1-1/8"
shaft and bearing set in less than 15,000 miles of everyday driving, so I
switched cases to a 1-1/4" version I had in the parts pile. The 1-1/8"
set-up is ok behind my 4-134 engine -- it's never needed attention in 35
years of driving my CJ-2A.
The modification kit is sold by AA for either the 1-1/8" or 1-1/4"
cases. It includes a new special shaft and 2 little cup and cone taper
roller bearing sets. AA includes a diagram to guide a machinist in cutting
your existing intermediate gear for the bearing cups, and afterwards you
should use a dremel tool to grind a couple of recesses inboard of where each
cup will be driven in, so you can drive them out later to replace them if
necessary. They don't tell you this in the instructions, but it's obvious
you'll never be able to replace worn cups unless you create some way to
drive them out before you install them. Only the gear needs to be cut, not
the case. I finally did this mod in my wagon and it's held up with no
problems for the last 25,000 miles or so. It almost (not quite) gets rid of
all of the transfer case whine.
I'd tell you how I learned this stuff, but I'd have to be drunk first.
Way too humiliating otherwise.

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick48CJ2A@... <Rick48CJ2A@...>
To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...>
Date: Monday, June 21, 1999 6:29 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] How do you remove the OD


From: Rick48CJ2A@...

Morris,
You da man. I'd love to hear how you came to know so much about this topic
someday. You're right of course about the gears not matching up between
the
#18 and #20. Of course I had to take and match them up myself to be
certain.
:-)

You say that the inside diameter of the 1 1/4" and 1 1/8" are the same,
just
a different set of bearings to match the shaft size? Would it be worth the
effort to have the case machined up to fit the 1 1/4" shaft. Then all I
would have to do is buy the thinner bearings and I would be in business.
How
reliable is the 1 1/8" for everyday driving. I'm not talking about rock
crawling or mud slinging, just everyday driving and occasional 4x4.

Can you tell me anything about the mythical cone bearing modification for
the
intermediate shaft. Who sells these kits and what do they include? Does
any
machine work have to be done? Will these kits fit a 1 1/8" t-case or are
they just made for the 1 1/4". Thanks to all of you for the wealth of
information.

Rick S (TX)

In a message dated 6/21/99 3:03:55 PM Central Daylight Time,
mgh@...
writes:

<<
I didn't see any responses to the mix-and-match question about transfer
cases, so here goes:
(1) The #20 case (and many late #18's) had a 4 inch diameter indexing
hole
where it mates to the transmission. The hole in earlier #18's was a shade
over 3 inches. You can generally have an early small hole #18 enlarged to
4.001" to work with a later transmision, but not the other way around, so
some later #18's, or any #20 case, generally cannot be used with an
earlier
transmission which was intended for the small indexing hole.
(2) The oil fill hole on most #20 cases is on the rear face, and when
such
a case is converted to an #18, it will intefere with the driveshaft brake
if
so equipped, or with the speedometer cable if not. For such cases, a new
fill hole must be drilled and tapped in the same location as a #18 fill
hole, and the existing rear fill hole must be plugged with a 1/2"
countersunk pipe plug, available in the plumbing section of a
well-equipped
hardware store (but not at Home Depot).
(3) Although early #18's and late #18's and #20's used
apparently-identical
26 tooth main drive gears, the tooth pitch is different, so they will not
work properly if parts are interchanged.
(4) The 26 tooth Warn overdrive gear was cut to match the early-type
pitch
only.
(5) The inside diameter of the intermediate (middle) gear is the same for
both the 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" shaft cases, so intermediate gears can be
freely
interchanged between cases with those shaft diameters, assuming all other
gears are properly matched. The bearing rollers have smaller diameters
(and
there are more of them) in the later 1-1/4" shaft version, so it is a more
durable arrangement, and you should go with that case if you can.
(6) Willys part numbers for the various gears are fairly useless since
they
are not marked on the parts themselves. Spicer numbers appear on original
parts. Aftermarket parts are not marked with numbers at all, adding to
the
mystery and adventure.
(7) The Spicer number for the intermediate gear for the early-pitch 26
tooth set-up is 18-5-7. The tooth counts are 34/21. It must be used with
an
18-8-18 output gear and 18-8-17 sliding gear. This combination works
properly with a Warn 26-tooth overdrive.
(8) The Spicer number for the intermediate gear for the late-pitch 26
tooth
set-up is 18-5-16. The tooth counts are 34/20. It must be used with an
18-8-44 output gear and 18-8-28 sliding gear. Don't use these gears with
a
Warn 26-tooth overdrive, even though it may seem to fit perfectly.
(9) If you need them, I can give you the numbers for the 29-tooth set up,
but these gears are so obviously different and incompatible with any
26-tooth combination that there's little chance of mismatching your
gears --
you probably wouldn't be able to force all of them into the case at the
same
time.. Ditto for the 27-tooth arrangement used on WWII models.

Others have answered about removing the overdrive -- I agree with those
who
say don't remove the small cover, cotter pin, etc. The main housing is a
tight fit, and may have to be gently pried off with leverage from two
screwdrivers working opposite sides of the housing. The main overdrive
gear
stays behind in the transfer case, and the snap ring is first carefully
removed with long needle-nose pliers The lock plate is then removed and a
1/2" socket extension fits into the female nut. This nut will need a lot
of
force to loosen it (if it was properly installed) because it needed to be
installed as tightly as possible. When reinstalling this gear, use a
breaker bar to put as much torque as you can on the socket wrench
extension,
while either having someone under the hood holding the fan to keep the
engine from turning, or (if the gearshift cover is off) locking up the
transmission by putting it in two gears at once. If the female nut is
not
super-tight, the lockplate and snap ring will not keep everything
together
for very long.

I'd be ashamed to admit how much of this I learned through ridiculous
experience. >>
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Re: CJ2A Power Loss

Kendal Jackson
 

At 09:46 AM 6/21/99 -0700, you wrote:

Vern, You crack me up!!! Visions of trying to use the internet with a
shared phone >line, with a
teenage female in the house!! We can expect to see posts by poor Vern,
clocked at 3:30 >AM!

Mines 15. Ever notice the time stamp on most of my emails/post?.....of
course today I got lucky :-)
Kendal Jackson
--It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm
really quite busy--


Re: Ricky's New Toy

Kendal Jackson
 

At 11:26 PM 6/20/99 EDT, you wrote:
"Are you sure. This one's bigger and cheaper". What! I couldn't believe
it. They >had the floor model of the $499 Professional upright 60 gallon,
9.5 CFM at 90 PSI
compressor on clearance for $219.
Life is good.
Kendal Jackson
--It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm
really quite busy--


Re: Stuck in Digest Mode

David H. Hatch
 

Vernaldo,

You ARE stuck in Digest!

I went in and checked, you are listed as Digest, but when in the
change area, it says you are in Normal. I tried to re-send the
"change to normal" function, but it still has you as Digest.

Mark in Missouri.... where are you? :)

Dave in the cave

My '46 2A:

WT users:

For the heart:


"I'm waitin' for a train, bound for Gloryland. I've got my
ticket in my hand and it's bought and paid for, and stained
with the Blood of The Lamb. I hear that way up wonder, on the
side of the tracks, there is a great big scrap heap, piled
high with things folks tossed off the train. It's filled with
canes and crutches, eyeglasses and medicine bottles, stuff
folks won't need when that train pulls in to Gloryland."

Neal Huegel - Breadmaker


Stuck in Digest Mode

K. R.
 

Dear Friends,

When I'm going to be away for a few days, I usually
switch over to Digest mode so my mailbox is not
overwhelmed. Then I just switch back when I'm back
on-line.

After this past weekend, I have not been able to go
back to normal (realtime) like before. When I first
tried to switch back, Onelist.com had a message that
the server was down for some routine maintenance, but
that mail would still be delivered. When it was back
up, I switched over, and hit the change button. Two
days later, I'm still stuck in Digest, even though
I've tried several times.

I'm wondering if anybody else is having any sort of
problems with Onelist.com Maybe I've somehow fallen
through sort of wormhole in the fabric of time and
space. Or maybe the moderator has locked me in a
digest-delayed world so folks could have a fighting
chance to fix their jeeps.

Life just isn't the same without all those flashing
mailbox icons.

Regards,
Vern
48 CJ2A in Vancouver, WA

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at


Buick 225/231 front axle clearance

Chuck Pedretti
 

A question for those of you with factory and repower Buick V6's in your
CJ's. How much clearance do you have between the crank pulley and axle
pumpkin. A picture of mine is at http:&#92;&#92;staff.magenic.com&#92;chuckp&#92;engine.htm
at the bottom (note the custom oak tierod :) I am running a 2.5" lift and
was suprised at how close to the axle the pully is. It probabally won't hit
but I though I'd check to see what is normal.

Got my 2nd hand AA engine mounts and they look great as long as the part
which mounts to the frame is inverted.



_________________________________
Chuck Pedretti MCSD, MCSE
Consultant
Magenic Technologies
mailto:chuckp@...
_________________________________

(46 CJ)
_________________________________


Re: How do you remove the OD

Mark Johnson
 

All of this overdrive talk lately has made me wan to get one. I have a
lead on a Warn od for a deal. What I need to know is what tooth or spline
count would I have on my 66 CJ5 or my 64 CJ6. What do I need to look for
that is good or bad on the overdrives, which can I use, which are useless
to me? Thanks ahead of time.

Mark Johnson