When I did the brakes on my Jeep my only concern was making sure that every thing was clean. All parts used were stock. I have never heard of any incompatible parts when using silicone fluid.My switch is from NAPA.
Don Wood
46 CJ2a
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-----Original Message----- From: < [email protected]> Sent: Nov 14, 2024 7:00 PM To: < [email protected]> Subject: Re: [WillysTech] brake light switch As long as the size of the nipple on the switch fits you can use any one you can find. Heck, you could even use a pipe thread adapter in a pinch, if there's enough room. Go to one of our local auto parts store with the old switch in hand and see what they've got that'll work with silicone brake fluid. It's nice to be able to read what's on the box before buying. Too bad Knecht's closed! Of the remaining stores I've found that the counter people at NAPA seem to know what they're doing: ;referer=v2 Is the silicone brake fluid compatible with the other ancient technology in you brakes? On 11/11/2024 3:50 PM, Dan M wrote: The not very old switch died, ordered a replacement, got a Standard > products SLS 25 switch, put it in before noticing it said "not approved > for use with silicone brake fluids". Which I use. Apparently, there is > or are compatible switches out there, anyone else worked through this?
-- John The slower the speed, the more interesting the shape; that's a truism in boat design. Low speed requires a degree of symmetry that must be discarded the moment hull speed is approached or exceeded and that's always seemed to me an aesthetic loss that is difficult to recover... (Paul Gartside)
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You can avoid the pressure switch altogether by using a lever action unit from Summit or Watson's Street Works.? The mechanical switches used to be cheap but now are $25 +.? Still, these brake light switch units give you choice.
?
PuN.
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As long as the size of the nipple on the switch fits you can use any one you can find. Heck, you could even use a pipe thread adapter in a pinch, if there's enough room. Go to one of our local auto parts store with the old switch in hand and see what they've got that'll work with silicone brake fluid. It's nice to be able to read what's on the box before buying. Too bad Knecht's closed! <sigh> Of the remaining stores I've found that the counter people at NAPA seem to know what they're doing:
Is the silicone brake fluid compatible with the other ancient technology in you brakes?
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On 11/11/2024 3:50 PM, Dan M wrote: The not very old switch died, ordered a replacement, got a Standard products SLS 25 switch, put it in before noticing it said "not approved for use with silicone brake fluids".? Which I use.? Apparently, there is or are compatible switches out there, anyone else worked through this?
--
John <jkohnen@...>
The slower the speed, the more interesting the shape; that's a
truism in boat design. Low speed requires a degree of symmetry
that must be discarded the moment hull speed is approached or
exceeded and that's always seemed to me an aesthetic loss that
is difficult to recover... (Paul Gartside)
|
The not very old switch died, ordered a replacement, got a Standard products SLS 25 switch, put it in before noticing it said "not approved for use with silicone brake fluids".? Which I use.? Apparently, there is or are compatible switches out there, anyone
else worked through this?
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Update and it never ends department
The redone Fhead 4 is in.? Runs great.? Nice to have working gas and temp gauges.? The oil pan leaked more than I like, on one side of the engine.? This was the side where the machine shop, working with a less than perfect block, welded in one or two helicoils
(or something) to replace broken cast iron areas where the pan bolts attach.? I'm guessing that engine oil is splashed on the ends of the bolts, and oil leaks down and though.? The gasket is not designed to prevent this type of leak.? I found "sealing washers",
and installed them on the pan bolts on the one side.? This completely stemmed the tidel.? On the "good" side, there was some oil on the head ends of a couple of bolts.? These bolts were not as tight as specified.? I carefully set the torque on them, wonder
if they loosened.? Re torqued, will see how it goes.? The rear seal, the reason this project started, does show a drop or two on the bell housing after a drive, but does not leak when parked.? Not perfect, but good enough.?
The steering.? Things are worn enough that the tightsteer unit is getting marginal.? I can feel it start to shimmy a little when going down some hills.? A friend used this outfit to go through his steering box:
He was very happy with the result, for a 1980's pickup.? They do more than restore; apparently, they replace bushings with bearings and install improved seals. Would need to weld up and re grind the worm gear.? Will cost $500 to $800.? If anyone on the list
has used them, please let me know.?
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Re: Heater vacuum actuator
Finally got a little time to start our wagon up after a year of sitting with little attention.? The heater works perfectly with the pair of vacuum actuators (including the repaired one) do their job.? Now that its cold enough, I can appreciate the defroster again.? My ancient vacuum gauge showed 18 inches, more than enough to drive the heater system.? The next test is for decibels at various speeds...
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PuN.
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Re: Wheels and measurements
Oh dear, I let that slip...
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Re: Wheels and measurements
Pavel, you have 3 legs!?!
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On Sept 28, 2024 10:01 a.m., willyswagon230 <pavelb@...> wrote: Dan,
?
You're wise, no doubt, to stick to factory design... but I have a pension for tinkering and constant "improvement" that follows from my own physical plant.? Most anatomical improvements involved removal of tonsils, appendix, fleshy end of Willys... excuse me "willie". Then there's chemical enhancements to control fluid pressure and content and most recently new lenses for light sensory equipment.? To have remained stock, in my case at least, would have been questionable.
The Glacier Park/Waterton area is perhaps the most impressive cross-boarder hiker's paradise.? On the Crypt lake hike, at one point, you can stand with one leg in BC, one in Alberta and one in Montana... truly memorable!
?
PuN.
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Re: Wheels and measurements
Dan,
?
You're wise, no doubt, to stick to factory design... but I have a pension for tinkering and constant "improvement" that follows from my own physical plant.? Most anatomical improvements involved removal of tonsils, appendix, fleshy end of Willys... excuse me "willie". Then there's chemical enhancements to control fluid pressure and content and most recently new lenses for light sensory equipment.? To have remained stock, in my case at least, would have been questionable.
The Glacier Park/Waterton area is perhaps the most impressive cross-boarder hiker's paradise.? On the Crypt lake hike, at one point, you can stand with one leg in BC, one in Alberta and one in Montana... truly memorable!
?
PuN.
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Re: Wheels and measurements
Pavel,
My mom had a 144 Volvo in my high school days, nice car.? Tried to talk her into a BMW 2002, no luck. Wise mom.
I looked over the bearings, and I couldn't find any problems.? And, they're made in USA Timken ones, too.? I may have replaced them long ago.? On making things more modern (steering box department), the approach of a redo of what I have might be attractive,
that way the car is a stock as possible and I don't have to modify anything.? Redheadsteeringgears.com is the company a friend used for his classic Ford camper special truck, he's very happy with the results.? I think I'd start there.?? On the brakes, I think
there is a kit to go to disk brakes available.? But why?? The wagon doesn't go very fast (unless there is a powerful tailwind on the Canadian plains), and the stock brakes work fine.?? I could replace the drums, and the shoes, now; these weren't available
25 years ago.? There (used to be) a local company that relined old brake shoes, which worked well.
On the Canandian plains reference, in 1981 the wagon did cross the USA and Canada, crossing into Canada from Glacier National Park, through Canada's Waterton Lakes National Park, and across the plains to the east coast.? I do remember a strong tailwind one
day, which got us to 27 MPG, a record.? I don't recall going any faster.??
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Dan,
?
Concerning your front wheel bearings, hopefully careful cleaning and new grease/adjustment will do the trick.? I'm sure you know to check the races for pitting and wear.? Should you opt for new bearings be very suspicious of replacements... I bought and
returned bearings that were supposed to be SKF out of Sweden but were substandard knock-offs... in the end I reused the old bearing.
I've had several vehicles that had worn steering boxes.? In the most memorable case, a 1974 Volvo 142 (wonderful car), I replaced the box twice with replacements from the wrecking yard, only to be disappointed both times.? A new or "rebuilt box" was unavailable.?
However, I found out there was a different design power steering box, made by ZF in Germany, available on a higher model.? One trip to a wrecking yard in Washington State for the parts and all was solved in more than one way (cost $75 plus time and fuel).?
The point is, could you not adapt a more modern steering box to the vehicle and be done with?? Same with your drums, can you not move up to discs?? I have Saginaw steering and discs on our wagon, can't that, or similar route not be found for your planar setup?
?
Cheers, Pavel up North
?
?
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Re: Wheels and measurements
Dan,
?
Concerning your front wheel bearings, hopefully careful cleaning and new grease/adjustment will do the trick.? I'm sure you know to check the races for pitting and wear.? Should you opt for new bearings be very suspicious of replacements... I bought and returned bearings that were supposed to be SKF out of Sweden but were substandard knock-offs... in the end I reused the old bearing.
I've had several vehicles that had worn steering boxes.? In the most memorable case, a 1974 Volvo 142 (wonderful car), I replaced the box twice with replacements from the wrecking yard, only to be disappointed both times.? A new or "rebuilt box" was unavailable.? However, I found out there was a different design power steering box, made by ZF in Germany, available on a higher model.? One trip to a wrecking yard in Washington State for the parts and all was solved in more than one way (cost $75 plus time and fuel).? The point is, could you not adapt a more modern steering box to the vehicle and be done with?? Same with your drums, can you not move up to discs?? I have Saginaw steering and discs on our wagon, can't that, or similar route not be found for your planar setup?
?
Cheers, Pavel up North
?
?
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I've been working on getting the shimmy out of the front end of the planar style setup on the 2 wd Willys.? Which led to a trip to Kaiser brake and alignment here in Eugene.? They gave it a review,? listed excessive play in the sector shaft, and worn out "eye
bushings" for the cross-spring ends. They mentioned some wheel bearing noise. too.
Which got me started on looking at and removing the front wheels.? The reproduction hubcaps purchased 25-30 years ago have been very difficult to get on, enough pounding to cause the paint on the wheel to come off in places close to the hubcap.? I stared at
it a while, wondering if the clips on the wheels could be "adjusted", or if the hubcaps could be modified.?? Asking the Internet, I found a reference to the hubcap being 8 1/4" inches in diameter, exactly what I have.?? Then,? looking over the current hubcaps
sold by the Jeepsterman- they are 8 3/8" wide.? That eighth of an inch would make this all work a lot better.? Hmmm.
Then there's the matter of the front brake drums.? Centuries ago, I had them machined to get the rivet caused grooves out of the surface.? I remember concern by the machine shop that they'd taken too much off- but there weren't any replacements available back
then.? I measured them, a bit crude with a tape, at 10 1/16" inside diameter, with the original being 10".? Asking Mr. Internet, found that a typical limit is .060", which is about 1/16".? Then, I found a picture of a NOS brake drum for the Willys, and it
says .090" for the discard diameter.? Which is about 3/32".? So, I snuck under the wire, and can feel OK about the drums, since they're in good condition otherwise.?? The bearings are fine, should be quieter after getting new grease.
So, like Maxwell Smart, "missed it by that much".? Or, missed by 1/8" on the hubcaps, and made it by 1/32" on the drums.
On the sector shaft, I adjusted the "tight steer" unit to remove the excessive play.? Should work for a while.? I heard about a place in Tacoma that remakes steering boxes, with ball bearings and a modern seal replacing the bronze sleeve, with the ability to
weld up and re surface the worm gear.? Sounds pretty good, expensive no doubt. Put off for another day.?
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Went to the famous Port Townsend (WA) wooden boat festival last weekend.? There I met Eric, with a 1958 wagon, rough and ready style, meaning he'd made a wooden tailgate, and made other repairs to hold it together, not attempting a restoration.? He painted
it with a white top, solid color on the rest of it.? It looked great, like an enamel, not like a color coat/clear coat.
In the wooden boat world, oil based paint application is now commonly done with paint applied by a small foam roller, and then "tipped" lightly with a brush, to remove bubbles and such.? With a paint additives such as Penetrol, or another appropriate thinner
to keep the wet edge "wet", the results can be excellent, with few brush marks; it looks close to a sprayed surface.??? I've painted boats that look like a broom was used to apply the coating...before I learned about this technique.
Eric has a wooden sailboat/electric boat that he uses for his "Left Coast Charter" business.?? He decided to paint his Willys the same way, using a new paint from Interlux, called Toplac Plus.?? Toplac Plus is formulated to roll on with a foam roller, with
no "tipping" required.? Eric rolled Toplac Plus on his wagon, and it looks great.? Nice gloss, even coat. No brush used, so no brush marks.? No runs, no overspray, no roller marks either.?
I attended a session with an Interlux rep at the festival.? Interlux formulated this paint to address the recent European Union rule that prohibits use of cyanide chemistry in paints.?This new paint is not as impervious to solvents without the cyanide; he mentioned
that acetone would attack the dry paint. Without cyanide, it's safer, and sold to the general public.
It is rated to go over metal.?? One can only get stock colors, a pretty limited set.?? On boats, it is a 5-7 year coating,? There may well be an automotive equivalent, given that Interlux is a brand of Akzo Nobel, a large company that makes coatings for all
kinds of things, like the insides of beer cans.
Hope someone tries this and shares the results.?
Dan
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Re: How dumb do movies think we are
I'm just glad they didn't blow up the jeepster.?
Dark Winds was great!? Can't wait for the sequel.
On 8/31/2024 12:45 PM, willyswagon230
via wrote:
Many films have errors and inconsistencies like the one you
found*.?? I suspect that the production team lets these "errors"
go knowing that many people in the audience will twig to the
mistake.? Sometimes the budget for the show won't allow a
correction... indeed sometimes the budget forces an extreme
"error" or substitution (coconuts instead of horses) as in the
Monty Python's Quest for the Holy Grail.? Was Dark Winds any
good?
?
PuN
* I can't remember how many times, on the evening news, the
difference between bacteria and virus gets confused.
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Re: How dumb do movies think we are
Dark Winds was great!? Can't wait for the sequel.
On 8/31/2024 12:45 PM, willyswagon230
via groups.io wrote:
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Many films have errors and inconsistencies like the one you
found*.?? I suspect that the production team lets these "errors"
go knowing that many people in the audience will twig to the
mistake.? Sometimes the budget for the show won't allow a
correction... indeed sometimes the budget forces an extreme
"error" or substitution (coconuts instead of horses) as in the
Monty Python's Quest for the Holy Grail.? Was Dark Winds any
good?
?
PuN
* I can't remember how many times, on the evening news, the
difference between bacteria and virus gets confused.
|
Re: How dumb do movies think we are
Many films have errors and inconsistencies like the one you found*.?? I suspect that the production team lets these "errors" go knowing that many people in the audience will twig to the mistake.? Sometimes the budget for the show won't allow a correction... indeed sometimes the budget forces an extreme "error" or substitution (coconuts instead of horses) as in the Monty Python's Quest for the Holy Grail.? Was Dark Winds any good?
?
PuN
* I can't remember how many times, on the evening news, the difference between bacteria and virus gets confused.
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 Note the hood and plastic top, dash is flat.
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How dumb do movies think we are
Watching a series on Netflix called Dark Winds. Guy walks out to this jeepster and it blows up. They show it after the explosion and it's turned into a later cj 5.? 
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Re: Not a good willys day
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Sorry to hear about the fire, Jay. You're lucky the flames didn't get to
more of the wiring, or worse. I once had to completely rewire a Morris
Minor from the firewall forward after an engine compartment fire...
Most likely the Carter's float valve has a bit of dirt in it, or the
float needle is stuck in the open position (there's a tab on the float
that's supposed to keep the float from dropping? too far, but some
ham-fisted "mechanics" might skip that adjustment. <sigh> Often rapping
on the carburettor near the float valve will dislodge a speck of dirt. A
carb leaking a _lot_ of gas usually has a simple problem to fix -- if
the leaked gas doesn't ignite. :o(
I don't know the argument about what carburettor is best on your Jeep,
but I've had Carter YFs on other vehicles that worked just fine.
On 8/26/2024 5:15 PM, jay b wrote:
> So I have listened to different poeple compare the YF and solex carbs
> and ad I am having issues?with power up a grade I thought I would switch
> the solex back to the Carter. Got it switched back and tried firing it
> up. When I got out of the cab and around to the front the whole engine
> was on fire. The Carter leaked like a sieve. Got the flames out and I've
> got some replacement wiring and a new distributor cap to replace. Going
> back to the new solex.
> _._,_._,_
--
John <jkohnen@...>
Better to trust the man who is frequently in error than the one
who is never in doubt. (Eric Sevareid)
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Re: Not a good willys day
Sorry to hear about the fire, Jay. You're lucky the flames didn't get to more of the wiring, or worse. I once had to completely rewire a Morris Minor from the firewall forward after an engine compartment fire...
Most likely the Carter's float valve has a bit of dirt in it, or the float needle is stuck in the open position (there's a tab on the float that's supposed to keep the float from dropping too far, but some ham-fisted "mechanics" might skip that adjustment. <sigh> Often rapping on the carburettor near the float valve will dislodge a speck of dirt. A carb leaking a _lot_ of gas usually has a simple problem to fix -- if the leaked gas doesn't ignite. :o(
I don't know the argument about what carburettor is best on your Jeep, but I've had Carter YFs on other vehicles that worked just fine.
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On 8/26/2024 5:15 PM, jay b wrote: So I have listened to different poeple compare the YF and solex carbs and ad I am having issues?with power up a grade I thought I would switch the solex back to the Carter. Got it switched back and tried firing it up. When I got out of the cab and around to the front the whole engine was on fire. The Carter leaked like a sieve. Got the flames out and I've got some replacement wiring and a new distributor cap to replace. Going back to the new solex.
_._,_._,_
--
John <jkohnen@...>
Better to trust the man who is frequently in error than the one
who is never in doubt. (Eric Sevareid)
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Don Wood
jay bernhardt