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Re: Back -up Lights
Ronald L. Cook
Rick,
I had two 1800's. A 68 and a 71. The trouble is, I bought them both in the late 70's, so the possibility of them having an original transmission still in them is about nil. However, both trucks were gone from my ownership by the mid 80's. IH is alot like Willys, however. The same parts are used for a long production time. I think this particular transmission was a Clark. Many manufacturers of trucks use the Clark. Chevrolet and GMC single axle of around 2 1/2 ton rated. Ron |
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Re: Taking the "Windshield Down" thread way outta here
Todd Murray
This is known as WD-40 air conditioning. Windshield down, 40 mph!
At 09:50 PM 6/27/99 EDT, you wrote: As the one who started this thread I should let you know that I went for athe torpedos!" (but of course wearing my cool tinted safety glasses fromof her with windshield in both the recumbent and erect conditions. |
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Re: Horn Assemble
Jerry Stoper
David
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thank you very much for the post! As they say, one picture is worth 1K words. My horn assy. came in a box of misc. parts. My 49 has a Ivory plastic part that is attached to the Ring, maybe it's the Cap, but it looks different from your picture. Jerry (AR) David Hoelzeman wrote: Jim, |
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Re: Tow Bars
Mike Boyink
From: Frank Sanborn <fsanborn@...>Ummm...Lately I haven't roared around the dunes so much as make big snapping, clanking sounds, then some semi-under-the-breath vocal noises, then limping out of the dunes with my flag between my wheels...so to speak...:) Glad you had fun - we should plan an early fall "old iron" run! Mike Boyink Holland, MI 1966 CJ5 1983 6.2 GMC Rally Van (towdog) (both at the shop for tranny work this a.m.) |
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Re: Willys Tool W-139
In a message dated 6/28/99 11:55:20 AM Central Daylight Time,
jeffgent@... writes: << You're a genious. Simple, cheap, and effective -- there's nothing better. This was the biggest problem I had in getting my xfer apart, and my SM420 as well. I spent hours working through this problem. You can be sure that I'll remember this for the next time around, I'll even be sure to pick up an extra one or two at the next auction I go to. I especially dig the notion of exploiting the inferior steel of the cheaper axe. Well done. >> Jeff, It looks bigger in the picture that it really is. It's really just a hatchet not an ax. I'm glad to be of service for new ideas. Rick |
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Re: tranny identify
Parshall Theodore J
Arne,
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I know you got an answer to your question that the Saginaw is different than the sm420, however, here is a bit more info. The Saginaw was used in many vehicles, including cars w/ small block Chevy engines. While it is not a truck transmission, it is reasonably strong, and has 4 synchronized gears. Depending upon what car/engine combination the transmission comes from, there were several sets of gear ratios available. A trans from an early Vega, for instance, came with a respectable 3.5 : 1 first gear - that is a three line transmission. A two line transmission has a 3.1 first. The lines refer to grooves cut into the spline on the input shaft to the trans, used for identification. The Saginaws are relatively cheap - I just bought one for my FC170 for $158. AA makes adapters for the transfer case. The Saginaw bolts up to any relatively recent Chevy engine and is certainly worth looking at if you are not looking for a 90:1 low gear ratio for climbing verticle walls. Ted, FC170's, WI -----Original Message----- |
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Re: rear main seal
Kendal Jackson
At 04:43 PM 6/27/99 -0700, you wrote:
. . . something about needing to thread the new seal with a thin piece ofwire, whereby >one can bend it and carefully feed it around the lowered crankshaft. But I've never >done it with the engine installed. Napa sells a kit for this. Kinda neat really and should have worked very well. It consist of a puller that is a headless screw driver that has a hole instead, a wire with a "Chinese finger torture" type device on the end that you use to thread a new rope seal through the groove and a couple of flexible pieces of steel in case of trouble getting the seal to set properly. Unfortunately when I pulled on the seal, the whole oil guard slid right out in one easy motion. I simply installed the new seal as prescribed in the book and slid the guard back in. All in all, took about 20min. Did it fix the leak? Nope :-) Kendal Jackson --It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm really quite busy-- |
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Re: willys woodies
Kendal Jackson
At 10:52 PM 6/27/99 -0700, you wrote:
From: "Morris G. Hill" <mgh@...>Thats the amazing thing, it isn't rotten at all nor even very fragile. The windlace is in much worse shape. I do not really understand why it is still so "intact" but everyone who sees Hugh their first reaction usually is "wow, nice headliner!". It is yellowed, this is true, but it is very dirty as well. Stains, nicotine, etc... Nates wife suggested a vegetable based cleaner but have not tried it yet. I am a little afraid to do much to it. Kendal Jackson --It might look like I'm doing nothing, but at the cellular level I'm really quite busy-- |
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Re: willys woodies
Morris G. Hill
Except for dusting, I'd leave it alone. The fabric is likely to be fragile,
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and the thread stitches holding it to the bows are probably rotten. It's probably not as dirty as it looks, but rather is faded and yellowed from age. -----Original Message-----
From: Kendal Jackson <jacksoti@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Sunday, June 27, 1999 2:27 AM Subject: Re: [WT] willys woodies From: Kendal Jackson <jacksoti@...>from verythe 1940's and 1950's. I tried to find the headliner stuff about 12 years durable; (2) hadn't been made in years, and (3) besides Willys, had onlyCool! this is what appears to be the headliner in my Wagon and it is in |
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Re: Horn Assemble
David Hoelzeman
Jim,
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How's this work? This is out of a '50-51 parts catalog but I believe it's the same for all of the pickups and wagons. If you have trouble finding a button I may have an extra one floating around somewhere. I'll check this weekend when I'm at my folks and my rather limited parts pile. What may not be obvious from the pic is: Screws (#11) attach Ring (#3) to the steering wheel. The Pins (#2) fit in the rubber blocks (anybody know where to find the blocks? My ring is good but the rubber, well, 50 years ain't been kind to it) with the pins extending slightly in the center. The Button (#1) slides in the middle of the pins lightly locking in holes in the Button. Cup (#4) fits in the bottom middle of the Button (#1) and washer (#5) is, if I remember correctly, is under the steering wheel nut. Parts 6-10 are all part of the wire. Cup (#4) makes the connection between the wire and the ground. David '50 4WD Pickup On Mon, 28 Jun 1999 00:47:32 EDT, JIMRUSELL@... wrote:
From: JIMRUSELL@... |
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Re: Backup again
Morris G. Hill
That's basically the idea for how I rigged backup lights on the T-90
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transmission in my wagon. I did it by making an angle bracket which is held in place by the 2 rear transmission cover bolts. The bracket holds a standard aftermarket starter push button switch up against the hole for the first/reverse shift rail. The rail pushes in the switch button when the shift lever is in reverse. I was afraid the push button might get clogged with dirt, etc., and that such a simple set-up might not work for very long, but 12 years later it still works perfectly every time. -----Original Message-----
From: Ronald L. Cook <rlcook@...> To: WillysTech@... <WillysTech@...> Date: Saturday, June 26, 1999 10:58 PM Subject: [WT] Backup again From: "Ronald L. Cook" <rlcook@...> |
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Re: Back -up Lights
Ronald L. Cook
I hunted up the shifter tower from a 5-speed out of one of my IH 1800
trucks I used to have. Sure enough, there was a backup light switch on it. There are no markings on the switch, so I can't tell you what it is. It incorporates a ball in the part that screws in the top of the cover, but since it is activated by the reverse shift fork raising the ball(instead of dropping in a notch in the shifter rail) it is a normally open switch. Pretty simple deal. Threaded hole in the right place with the right switch screwed in. Ron |
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Re: Frank's T-case
Reed Cary
Rick, What a neat way to do a service diagnosis! Now we can all share. I was looking over your
shoulder here, and I noticed the worn gear seems to be without the holes or grooves to allow oil to lubricate the bearing surface of gear against shoulder of the shaft. Is it worn away on the bad gear? (One can't tell depth in the picture) Perhaps it's the cause of the failure. Reed (CA) --- Rick48CJ2A@... wrote: From: Rick48CJ2A@...=== _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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Re: Back -up Lights
In a message dated 6/27/99 11:33:01 PM Central Daylight Time,
rlcook@... writes: << I hunted up the shifter tower from a 5-speed out of one of my IH 1800 trucks I used to have. Sure enough, there was a backup light switch on it. There are no markings on the switch, so I can't tell you what it is. It incorporates a ball in the part that screws in the top of the cover, but since it is activated by the reverse shift fork raising the ball(instead of dropping in a notch in the shifter rail) it is a normally open switch. Pretty simple deal. Threaded hole in the right place with the right switch screwed in. Ron >> Ron, I spent some more time tonight looking at the shift tower. When I wrote earlier I was operating from my memory which is not very good sometimes. That's why I write everything down. :-) Anyway the shift rod does have a detent groove in it but it will not make contact with the switch location when reverse is activated. This is a good thing because the when you shift to 1st gear the rod moves out from under the switch boss all together. This means that a switch just like the one you described would work perfectly in my tranny. Do you know what year IH it came out of? Rick S (TX) I can feel those backup lights coming fast. :-) |
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Re: rear main seal
rightI am assuming that my rear main seal is going. I wanted to ask if anybody I must say pain in the butt. The drawbacks to waiting are 1)you need checkaway. I checked the faq's on this but no luck. Oh yeah the motor is a your oil more often. 2) your clutch will probably bet oily and can slip a lot easier when under load or in off road type situations. If you replace it my vote is for pulling the engine to do it. Mark Johnson |
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Re: Stuck in Digest Mode
Baber
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---------- From: Tea Herb Farm <therbfrm@...>not seem to comply with this suggested mode. The One-List system was down lastSunday evening, so I believe you indeed did get sucked into the wormhole.receiving from Vern lately. My apologies for the software glitch. You should now start |
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Re: that old saw
Merl
That's one thing you might try to use when installing and adjusting the
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windshield... when you install a soft top (Besttop anyway) they give you measurements that indicate the distance from the top of the windshield on each side to the rear of the body. If you can find the correct measurement for a 2A it would give you at least some guide as to correct windshield placement. Maybe latch the windshield down to the dash without the hinges (have a couple of helpers to keep it standing up), get your tilt right by using the soft top measurements, mark the hinge locations. Like Reed says, you may need to adjust to provide for compression of the cowl gasket. Merl, Tejas Reed Cary wrote:
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Bernie's Electrical lead
Frank Wood
In case Bernie forgot, I save everything.
---------- From: Bernie Daily[SMTP:dailyops@...] Sent: Sunday, October 04, 1998 9:56 PM To: WillysTech@... Subject: Re: [WTML] Rewiring The cloth wiring is shot, and I don't want to start any Get a catalog from Rhode Island Wiring Service 401-789-1955. You'll swearforest fires. Anyone know where to get these clamp-on bulb contacts? I some one sent you a Christmas Catalog! Bernie Daily ========================================================== WillysTech ========================================================== |
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