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Re: Paint & Restoring old License plates
J.Lewis
I'm not sure about other states but here in Florida, if you want to register
the vehicle with the older plate, it must be original and unrestored. My neighbor went to a lot of trouble to restore an older plate for his Model A only to find out that he could not use the plate. Jerry to days.an automotive paint store to match the color first with enamel, He then lint -freeYou then apply the enamel directly over the lacquer, then take a probablyrag with enamel reducer on it to wipe off the paint covering the letters paint the entire plate in the background color and letting it dry, then------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
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a bunch of replys
Hi all
I am in digest so I don't allways get to read up often. I went through the michigan mechanics certification program seventeen years ago and passed everything to be certified as a master mech. Then before I paid for the certification I changed employment. one of the reasons i got out of the car repair job was it was interfering my hobby (jeeps old fords ). as to the paint it yourself thread. I have an older brother who paints cars as a second job but for the not critical stuff i do my own with a $39 cheep imitation of a binks paint gun i got at the swap meet. as for paint i use a lot of ace hardwares rust stop enamel with cheep lacqure thinner. I don't know how this stuff will look in ten years but my delivery truck is holding up fine and my delivery boys don't care how well it shines. My cj2 is for fun and a professinal paint job would make me cringe at every branch scrape. my 51 panel is another story it is blue metalic and white and was pro. done and perfect till the building fell on it and ruined the front foot or so of the roof. oh well i always said i got as much fun from working on it as driving it. this list is very informative and entertaining as well. jeff in upper michigan 4 cj2a,s and a 51 panel |
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Re: Buick 225/231 Clearance
Dinarte Santos
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On Wed, 23 Jun 1999 06:46:06 Chuck Pedretti wrote: From: "Chuck Pedretti" <chuckp@...>I had to do this when I installed a Chevy II 153 cid engine in my CJ-3A. At first I tried to install the engine level, as a result it was too low and there were clearance problems with the front pumpkin - lower radiator hose, which got smashed several times. The carb was tilted to the front, too. A good way to tell the correct tilt would be placing a bubble level on the intake manifold, with the carburetor removed. Hood clearance should be checked, too, with the carburetor + air filter assembly installed. Bellhouse to firewall clearance could be an issue, too. Displacing the engine to the driver's side would help pumpkin to engine clearance, but could lead to steering system - exhaust manifold or header clearance. I found the best way to fit my engine was cutting the stock mounts' rivets with a chisel, relocating them backwards, bolting them to the frame, and finding suitable rubber mounts to attach them to the engine's stock mounts. This would allow the engine to be displaced to the drivers side. Worked for an I-4, I don't know if it would work for a V-6 as there could be interference problems with the drivers side cylinder head - left fender. would be about 2.5" too short and you would have to cut the drivers side mount off - as it sits their mounts are the perfect size to fit centered in a CJ2 frame.
--== Sent via Deja.com ==-- Share what you know. Learn what you don't. |
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Re: Buick 225/231 front axle clearance
Chuck Pedretti
Thanks for the info - I will need to check my front to back distance among
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other things. I have lots of valve cover clearance so I may need to move the trans crossmember back closer to the stock location. I'm hoping I don't have to uncenter my engine because this is the only way the stock steering box will fit. (Plan to go to saginaw at some point but I'd like to get it all together sometime this year). Another possibility may be switching pulleys, the stock 231 pulley has 3 belt grooves and is fairly long - if I can use a shorter one the problem will go partially away. (Only need one belt anyway) Thanks _________________________________ Chuck Pedretti MCSD, MCSE Consultant Magenic Technologies mailto:chuckp@... _________________________________ (46 CJ) _________________________________ -----Original Message----- |
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Re: Buick 225/231 Clearance
Bill Lagler
Chuck Pedretti wrote:
Looking straight down the front face of the pulley (2 groove) is about even with the rear of the axle tube. Yes. If you have the engine sitting level the carb is probably leaning forward. 2) This doesn't seem like much clearance considering the lift, but theOne of these days I need to buy a digital camera, of course I should probably buy a PC first. |
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Re: Buick 225/231 front axle clearance
Bill Lagler
Chuck,
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Both my CJ2A and CJ5 have the V6 mounted in the same location relative to the front axle, both are using Jeep 225 oil filter mounts. I don't think there is any way the front axle could ever hit the oil filter, oil pump, pulley or any other part of the engine. On my CJ2A I did lower the front axle snubbers by 1" but this was to reduce tire/fender rubbing when crossed up not because of engine clearance. Engine location in the 2A is as follows: front to back, from the front face of the harmonic balancer (the surface the pulley bolt on to) to the rear surface of the front crossmember is 9". Up and down, if you lay a straight edge across the top of the fenders it will also rest on the top of the valve covers at the front of the engine. I forgot to check side to side (I can measure if you want) but it's not centered, offset to the drivers side for drive shaft clearance. Positioned like this the drivers side valve cover will be right against the corner of the firewall. I reshaped, (read hammer work), the firewall for clearance. This firewall mod is the same thing the factory did to the CJ5 when they put in the V6. Bill 47cj2a Chuck Pedretti wrote:
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Re: Spicer T 18 case
Mark Johnson
I don't have exact dates or serial numbers, but I think the
factory went from 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" shafts around 1954 or 1955, at or aboutFrom what I have heard learned that there is one hold over of the 26 tooth transfer and that is in the M38A1's till the end of their prodction run. I think the gov't does not like change much. Mark Johnson |
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Re: Gearbox ramblings - Intermediate shaft info
Bill Lagler
Frank,
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Correction to your attached D18 info. All of the CJ's with the V6 used the large hole(4") transfer case. Earlier ('65 to '69) used the T86 trans with a 6 spline input gear, ('69 to '71) with the T14 (synchro 1st gear) used the 10 spline input gear. Bill 47cj2a Frank Wood wrote:
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Buick 225/231 Clearance
Chuck Pedretti
Put the motor back in last night after bolting in the mounts and have the
following measurements. My setup measures 4" from bottom of pulley to first point of contact, I am running 2.5 rubicon express lift with the motor mounted level front to back and centered between the frame rails. The front face of the pulley is almost directly in line vertically with the front of the differential. My Trans/tCase were not lowered at all, so the engine is sitting at what would be stock height. Questions: 1) Is it common to have to tilt the motor by making it sit higher in front? 2) This doesn't seem like much clearance considering the lift, but the limited AA directions didn't mention having to do anything more than what I did (aside from the fact that my motor is centered and AA wants you to jam it all the way to the drivers side) strangely enough if you follow the AA directions there is no way their mounts will work. The passenger side mount would be about 2.5" too short and you would have to cut the drivers side mount off - as it sits their mounts are the perfect size to fit centered in a CJ2 frame. 3) Anybody have any close up pictures of their engine bay with the Buick in it? If they are on the World Wide Wasteland please forward a URL. Thanks to all _________________________________ Chuck Pedretti MCSD, MCSE Consultant Magenic Technologies mailto:chuckp@... _________________________________ (46 CJ) _________________________________ |
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overdrive shifter
Arne Anderson
I have a question about the two oval shaped metal pieces that surround the
shifter on the jeep model overdrive(you can see them on page nine of the manual posted). I can't figure how these things wrap down the side of the transmission cover. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated as I still just have a hole and it isn't very clean looking. thanks arne |
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Re: starter bushing removal, version 2.0
Arne Anderson
sorry about that I "can't" wedge anything under this little cap
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arne Richard Grover wrote: From: Richard Grover <grover@...> |
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Re: Spicer T 18 case
Morris G. Hill
Richard, I think you will find when you get out and under that you guessed
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correctly, at least if your transfer cases weren't swapped before you bought your vehicles. I don't have exact dates or serial numbers, but I think the factory went from 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" shafts around 1954 or 1955, at or about the same time they switched from the early 26 tooth main drive gear to the 29 tooth gear. I believe the change was made across-the-board, regardless of body style or type of engine, but I can't verify that. The whole case should swap between your pick-up and wagon so long as you swap main drive gear too if it has a different tooth count, and you'll have to take that gear off anyway when you separate the transmission from the transfer case. However, it probably wouldn't be a good idea to use the 1-1/8" shaft case behind a 302 (except temporarily and if you drive with a light foot) unless you put an AA bearing upgrade in that case first. I'm pretty sure that once an AA upgrade set-up is installed, there's no longer any practical difference between the strengths of cases having the two different shaft diameters, because I believe both versions probably use the same size cones and cups. It would be hard for them not to, since the cups are pressed into the intermediate gear, and that gear has the same inside diameter for both the 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" shafts. I have not tried to install an AA upgrade kit in a 1-1/8" shaft case, so I can't be positive on this, but I can't think why they couldn't or shouldn't use the same Timken-type cone and cup bearings in both applications. -----Original Message-----
From: Richard Grover <grover@...> To: 'WillysTech@...' <WillysTech@...> Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 10:26 AM Subject: Re: [WT] Spicer T 18 case From: Richard Grover <grover@...>1960 wagon that I am hoping is the 1 1/4". The wagon has a 302 and I'min it. I know this is bad. :-(pulling gear boxes out. I hate to get my daily driver apart to discover I can't puttoo weak for the 6-226 or larger engines -- my 226 wagon trashed a new 1-1/8"each cup will be driven in, so you can drive them out later to replace them ifof all of the transfer case whine.first. Way too humiliating otherwise.topic thesomeday. You're right of course about the gears not matching up betweenthe#18 and #20. Of course I had to take and match them up myself to becertain.:-)just shadeeffort to have the case machined up to fit the 1 1/4" shaft. Then all IHow toover 3 inches. You can generally have an early small hole #18 enlarged new4.001" to work with a later transmision, but not the other way around, soearlier forfill hole must be drilled and tapped in the same location as a #18 fillwell-equipped moreboth the 1-1/8" and 1-1/4" shaft cases, so intermediate gears can befreelyinterchanged between cases with those shaft diameters, assuming all other(and originaldurable arrangement, and you should go with that case if you can.they up,parts. Aftermarket parts are not marked with numbers at all, adding tothemystery and adventure.an abut these gears are so obviously different and incompatible with anygears -- 1/2" socket extension fits into the female nut. This nut will need a lotofforce to loosen it (if it was properly installed) because it needed to beextension, |
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Re: Torque specs for L-134
Dave,
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The pattern, with the front of the motor to the left is (numbers are the head bolts - follow 1-15 for correct sequence): 15 9 5 7 13 10 3 1 2 12 11 6 4 8 14 Torque: 60-70 ft.-lbs. This is out of the '50-5 Truck/Wagon Mechanic's Manual. I didn't find any mention of suggested increments. Hope this helped, David '50 4WD Pickup On Tue, 22 Jun 1999 21:49:17 -0700, Dave and Robin Samuelson wrote:
From: Dave and Robin Samuelson <lucky@...> |
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Decked Blacks - (was Re: [WT] Introduction ...)
Sean R. Kerns
Well, this makes sense, and explains why my engine has no serial number on the water pump boss. I
know for a fact it was at least rebuilt. Sean Reed Cary wrote: (You can tell if it has been decked at-- Sean R. Kerns (aka Snake) e-mail: music@... Bloodspoint Studio - Home of Stalking Horse "You're in a band... That's like a business class ticket to cool, with complimentary mojo after takeoff..." |
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Re: One Step Closer to 5 Shift Levers
All this talk of overdrives and PTO's is making me jealous. Under my
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current arrangement, I will have only 2 shift levers - 1 Tranny and 1 Transfer case. Anyone have an idea where I can get a PTO for a Muncie SM 465? Robert 53 Wagon (repowered) On Tue, 22 Jun 1999 21:39:06 -0400 "marshall rimland" <mjr@...> writes: Had a good day today. |
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Gearbox ramblings - Intermediate shaft info
Frank Wood
Me and the family stopped by Rick's place this past weekend to pick up a
pair of axles, driveshafts and a set of gearboxes which includes the Warn OD Rick has been posting about. After introducing the families and getting to drive his super '61 PU, Rick takes me out to his parts shed to see the parts. Now as we all know from his numerous and knowledgeable posts, Rick is a bright and energetic guy. As we look over the gearboxes, it's obvious Rick is just dying to tear into them. In fact, although he wasn't quite foaming at the mouth, I think I could have just moved my family in with his for a few days until we got this xfer case/OD puzzle worked out. Since I'm focusing on my Tornado now, and since I'm not the FAQ/rebuild guide extraordinaire that Rick is, I thought the thing to do would be to leave the boxes with him to tear into while I just haul the axles home to Houston. In a few weeks I'm planning to head back and have a gearbox session with Rick(still on for 7/10 if you are). Hopefully out of all this tinkering and help from WT, I will have a T90/18/OD combo I can bolt to my Tornado, Rick will have an xfer he can bolt to his T90, and based on what we've seen from Rick's T-90 rebuild guide, all of WT will have a Spicer18/20 rebuild guide with notes on Warn OD installation. So go for it Rick, but try not to bust it up too bad till I get back. Cheers, Frank PS - On another related topic, here is a post from a WT member a while back regarding intermediate shafts. From: Dave Blackmon <daveb@...> Here is the info I have...... Checking the intermediate shaft diameter is a quick, easy way to identify what vehicle a transfer case was originally used in. Keep in mind, however, cases that originally had the 1-1/8" intermediate shaft and caged rollers may have been machined to accept the 1-1/4" shaft and uncaqed rollers, because of the superiority of this later style bearing. There is only one sure way to identify what the transfer case is - count the gear teeth and number of splines on the input gear. MB AND GPW MODEL JEEPS: 3/4 dia. intermediate shaft, cage type shaft roller hearing, 27 tooth input gear with 6 spine hub, 80mrn locating bore in face of case. 27 tooth gear was used only in MB and GPW model Jeeps. This model 18 transfer had a low range ratio of 1.97 to 1. This is only found on MB and GPW model Jeeps. 1946-1955 CIVILIAN JEEP UNIVERSAL WITH 4-CYLINDER, 1946-1955 UTILITY TRUCK AND WAGON WITH 4-CYLINDER AND 6-CYLINDER 161 C.I.D., M38, M38A1, M-170 MILITARY: 1-1/8" dia. intermediate shaft, cage type shaft roller bearings. 26 tooth input gear with 6 spline hub. 80mm locating bore in face of case. This 26 tooth gear may be marked 18-8-19 or 18-8-31. 1955-1971 JEEP UNIVERSAL WITH 4-CYLINDER, 1964-1969 JEEP UNIVERSAL WITH FACTORY OPTION V6, 1955-1962 UTILITY TRUCK AND WAGON WITH 6-CYLINDER: 1-1/4" dia. intermediate shaft, 48 uncaged rollers, 29 tooth input gear with 6 spline hub. 80mm locating bore in face of case. This 29 tooth gear may be marked 18-8-23. 1969-1971 JEEP UNIVERSAL WITH FACTORY OPTION V6: 1-1/4" dia. intermediate shaft, 48 uncaged rollers, 29 tooth input gear with 10 spline 1-3/16" dia. hub. 4" locating bore in face of case. This 29 tooth gear may he marked 28-8-50. Hope this helps, Dave |
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Re: Newby: How will I know I have the proper rear seat ?
Reed Cary
--- "K. R." <kr98664@...> wrote:
From: "K. R." <kr98664@...>Godd idea Vern. Here's what it says: "More Rear Seat Info - Cj3A rear seats had the small CJ2A style seat bottom springs which appear small for the seat pan size; this seat's lower frontal tube interior has 5 holes drilled for cushion flap attachment. Late 3B and 5 rear seats had full size cushions & covers; lower holes are drilled all around the tube perimeter." === _________________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Get your free @yahoo.com address at |
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