Re: Whole lotta shakin going on
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On Sat, Apr 5, 2025, 2:44?PM Dan Mulholland via <mulhollanddr= [email protected]> wrote:
And Jay wins the award.? Front to back swap fixed the problem.? It's a case of fading memory.? When I'd done the restoration in the 90's, I replaced the tires; the Goodyear folks "graded" the rims- I? remember that the worst one became the spare.? This? time,
when the engine was out and I patched up the wheel paint- especially those critical red pin stripes- I rotated the wheels to even out tire wear, forgetting the situation from years ago.
Thanks for the suggestions, appreciate it!
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
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Re: Whole lotta shakin going on
And Jay wins the award.? Front to back swap fixed the problem.? It's a case of fading memory.? When I'd done the restoration in the 90's, I replaced the tires; the Goodyear folks "graded" the rims- I? remember that the worst one became the spare.? This? time,
when the engine was out and I patched up the wheel paint- especially those critical red pin stripes- I rotated the wheels to even out tire wear, forgetting the situation from years ago.
Thanks for the suggestions, appreciate it!
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
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Re: Whole lotta shakin going on
Have you tried a steering damper? You can also try giving it a little more toe in.
John 56 Pickup TKERTOY Graham, Wash.
On Thu, Apr 3, 2025 at 9:06 PM, jeepeers85213 via groups.io <bilwilm@...> wrote:
Was the Jeep lifted and the steering control link has a noticeable angle, should be as parallel as possible..
Add a bolt on steering dampener. My 48 pickup did same thing On Thu, Apr 3, 2025 at 4:44 PM, Dan Mulholland via groups.io <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
So,
Done several things, still some shaking at "high speed"- meaning over 50,? in the 2 wd wagon. ? The wagon has the planar, cross mounted leaf spring, suspension.
Takes about half a mile for the shaking to start.? Slow down, it goes away, and starts again after another 1/2 mile of smooth operation
-
?Rebuilt steering box,? to get rid of up and down movement of sector shaft, by RedHead.? Reduced intensity of the problem
-
Replaced leaf spring "eyes" at suggestion of alignment shop, couldn't see any problem with what I replaced, no excess movement.?
-
Set drag link tightness per manual, - tighten until tight, back off one turn.? Tried tightening half a turn, perhaps some minor help.
-
Checked for loose wheel bearings, seem OK
-
Shaking wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 positions doesn't reveal any other loose or worn parts.? King pins are relatively new.
Haven't had the wheel balance checked; don't see any missing weights.? Any ideas?
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Re: Whole lotta shakin going on
Was the Jeep lifted and the steering control link has a noticeable angle, should be as parallel as possible..
Add a bolt on steering dampener. My 48 pickup did same thing On Thu, Apr 3, 2025 at 4:44 PM, Dan Mulholland via groups.io <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
So,
Done several things, still some shaking at "high speed"- meaning over 50,? in the 2 wd wagon. ? The wagon has the planar, cross mounted leaf spring, suspension.
Takes about half a mile for the shaking to start.? Slow down, it goes away, and starts again after another 1/2 mile of smooth operation
-
?Rebuilt steering box,? to get rid of up and down movement of sector shaft, by RedHead.? Reduced intensity of the problem
-
Replaced leaf spring "eyes" at suggestion of alignment shop, couldn't see any problem with what I replaced, no excess movement.?
-
Set drag link tightness per manual, - tighten until tight, back off one turn.? Tried tightening half a turn, perhaps some minor help.
-
Checked for loose wheel bearings, seem OK
-
Shaking wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 positions doesn't reveal any other loose or worn parts.? King pins are relatively new.
Haven't had the wheel balance checked; don't see any missing weights.? Any ideas?
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Re: Whole lotta shakin going on
Could out of spec "toe-in" contribute to the problem?
?
PuN
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Re: Whole lotta shakin going on
Tie rod ends? About the only sure fire ay to eliminate “death wobble” in 4x4 willyses, even after doing all you have done and more, ?is a damper between t he tie rod and axle or frame. ?It is claimed that out of balance?tires instigate the wobble.
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On Apr 3, 2025, at 5:44?PM, Dan Mulholland via groups.io <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
So,
Done several things, still some shaking at "high speed"- meaning over 50,? in the 2 wd wagon. ? The wagon has the planar, cross mounted leaf spring, suspension.
Takes about half a mile for the shaking to start.? Slow down, it goes away, and starts again after another 1/2 mile of smooth operation
?Rebuilt steering box,? to get rid of up and down movement of sector shaft, by RedHead.? Reduced intensity of the problem Replaced leaf spring "eyes" at suggestion of alignment shop, couldn't see any problem with what I replaced, no excess movement.? Set drag link tightness per manual, - tighten until tight, back off one turn.? Tried tightening half a turn, perhaps some minor help. Checked for loose wheel bearings, seem OK Shaking wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 positions doesn't reveal any other loose or worn parts.? King pins are relatively new.
Haven't had the wheel balance checked; don't see any missing weights.? Any ideas?
--?Dan53 2wd WagonEugene, OR
|
Re: Whole lotta shakin going on
Try rotating the tires front to rear seal if anything changes
On Thu, Apr 3, 2025, 7:44?PM Dan Mulholland via <mulhollanddr= [email protected]> wrote:
So,
Done several things, still some shaking at "high speed"- meaning over 50,? in the 2 wd wagon. ? The wagon has the planar, cross mounted leaf spring, suspension.
Takes about half a mile for the shaking to start.? Slow down, it goes away, and starts again after another 1/2 mile of smooth operation
-
?Rebuilt steering box,? to get rid of up and down movement of sector shaft, by RedHead.? Reduced intensity of the problem
-
Replaced leaf spring "eyes" at suggestion of alignment shop, couldn't see any problem with what I replaced, no excess movement.?
-
Set drag link tightness per manual, - tighten until tight, back off one turn.? Tried tightening half a turn, perhaps some minor help.
-
Checked for loose wheel bearings, seem OK
-
Shaking wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 positions doesn't reveal any other loose or worn parts.? King pins are relatively new.
Haven't had the wheel balance checked; don't see any missing weights.? Any ideas?
--
Dan
53 2wd Wagon
Eugene, OR
|
Re: Whole lotta shakin going on
Add a bolt on steering dampener. My 48 pickup did same thing
On Thu, Apr 3, 2025 at 4:44 PM, Dan Mulholland via groups.io <mulhollanddr@...> wrote:
So,
Done several things, still some shaking at "high speed"- meaning over 50,? in the 2 wd wagon. ? The wagon has the planar, cross mounted leaf spring, suspension.
Takes about half a mile for the shaking to start.? Slow down, it goes away, and starts again after another 1/2 mile of smooth operation
-
?Rebuilt steering box,? to get rid of up and down movement of sector shaft, by RedHead.? Reduced intensity of the problem
-
Replaced leaf spring "eyes" at suggestion of alignment shop, couldn't see any problem with what I replaced, no excess movement.?
-
Set drag link tightness per manual, - tighten until tight, back off one turn.? Tried tightening half a turn, perhaps some minor help.
-
Checked for loose wheel bearings, seem OK
-
Shaking wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 positions doesn't reveal any other loose or worn parts.? King pins are relatively new.
Haven't had the wheel balance checked; don't see any missing weights.? Any ideas?
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Whole lotta shakin going on
So,
Done several things, still some shaking at "high speed"- meaning over 50,? in the 2 wd wagon. ? The wagon has the planar, cross mounted leaf spring, suspension.
Takes about half a mile for the shaking to start.? Slow down, it goes away, and starts again after another 1/2 mile of smooth operation
-
?Rebuilt steering box,? to get rid of up and down movement of sector shaft, by RedHead.? Reduced intensity of the problem
-
Replaced leaf spring "eyes" at suggestion of alignment shop, couldn't see any problem with what I replaced, no excess movement.?
-
Set drag link tightness per manual, - tighten until tight, back off one turn.? Tried tightening half a turn, perhaps some minor help.
-
Checked for loose wheel bearings, seem OK
-
Shaking wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 positions doesn't reveal any other loose or worn parts.? King pins are relatively new.
Haven't had the wheel balance checked; don't see any missing weights.? Any ideas?
-- Dan 53 2wd Wagon Eugene, OR
|
Hi Pruit, This message just popped up on my phone. How's everything in New Mexico?
On Fri, Mar 14, 2025 at 7:05 AM, Pruit Ginsberg via groups.io <pruitg@...> wrote: Hi John. Good to hear from you. Pruit On Mar 13, 2025, at 5:44?PM, John Barrett via groups.io <tkertoy@...> wrote:
It should be a 3/8 fine thread.
John? 56 Pickup TKER TOY Graham, Wash
On Thu, Mar 13, 2025 at 3:53 PM, Jim Ouimet via groups.io <jimouimet@...> wrote: Can someone tell me the bolt size and thread pitch for a hood on a 1947 Willys.
Thanks,
Jim Ouimet
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Hi John. Good to hear from you.
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On Mar 13, 2025, at 5:44?PM, John Barrett via groups.io <tkertoy@...> wrote:
It should be a 3/8 fine thread.
John? 56 Pickup TKER TOY Graham, Wash
On Thu, Mar 13, 2025 at 3:53 PM, Jim Ouimet via groups.io <jimouimet@...> wrote: Can someone tell me the bolt size and thread pitch for a hood on a 1947 Willys.
Thanks,
Jim Ouimet
|
|
|
It should be a 3/8 fine thread.
John? 56 Pickup TKER TOY Graham, Wash
On Thu, Mar 13, 2025 at 3:53 PM, Jim Ouimet via groups.io <jimouimet@...> wrote: Can someone tell me the bolt size and thread pitch for a hood on a 1947 Willys.
Thanks,
Jim Ouimet
|
Can someone tell me the bolt size and thread pitch for a hood on a 1947 Willys.
Thanks,
Jim Ouimet
jimouimet@...
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Just recently went through all this... :)
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You've got 3 possibilities:
a) Gauge
b) Sending Unit
c) Wires (inc. ground)
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Good news is you have a partial reading...
?
Ground test: Hook up a jumper wire between the base of the sending unit to a good ground (I typically use one of the bolts in the passenger compartment). That should not change the reading at all. Second test is if you have VOM meter, hook it up between the base of the sending unit and a known good ground (or the negative terminal of the battery would be even better). Should read 0 ohms.
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Sending unit: this is likely the issue--if the sending unit is old, and especially if you've used fuel with ethanol, things are likely very rusty, and that rust may be preventing the arm of the sending unit from achieving full travel.?
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a) Peek down the filler neck with a flashlight--any rust visible?
b) Grab some copper electrical wire (12 or 10 ga if you have it). Bend it into a LONG "U" shape (the U shape will give you a bit more strength and the ability to "rotate" it). Bend that long contraption so it goes into the fuel filler neck until it gets to the float, and then see if you can manipulate the float (i.e. push it "up") and see if the reading changes...not that if things are really rusty you may not be able to move it.
c) Above tests don't require any disassembly - but (especially for a CJ) it's probably easiest to remove the sending unit from the tank (should be 5 small screws). Betting that if you pull it out it'll likely be pretty rusty. However once you have it out, see if the arm moves easily throughout its range. Also? you can hook it up (you need a ground) and then see if the fuel gauge moves appropriately. Note that even if the armature moves the full range, then "internals" may have rusted, and no longer be making contact. Additionally, you can hook up your VOM across the fuel gauge and measure the resistance as the armature moves across its range (it should constantly change, and there should be no "dead spots"). Note that the gauge generate very few ohms (so you'll likely use one of the lower ranges on your VOM). Wish I'd have written down the ranges when I purchased my new sending unit).
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Gauge: again, I'm betting the sending unit is the problem, but if all checks out ok, then you can test that gauge by hooking it up with a variable resistor in place of the sending unit, and seeing if you can get full range of motion from the gauge.
?
"Common things occur commonly"
?
Given the above adage, this is likely a rusty tank, and sending unit. (I had my Jeep in storage, with fresh gas, and when I got it out of storage the sending unit was completely rusted--an AMAZING amount of rust actually, so I'm betting on rust). If you pull the sending unit and it has any rust at all, I'd just get a new one (not worth the hassle for the price). HOWEVER, once you have the sending unit out get out your flashlight and take a REALLY GOOD look at the tank--you'll only be able to see some of it, but if you see rust, I'd take the opportunity to put in a new tank. Again, for a few dollars you will have peace of mind, and you won't have to deal with the other issues that a rusty tank can cause (mainly plugged lines, fuel pump issues, and plugged carb jets).?
?
Hope this helps.
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Sender. Not center. Stupid voice recognition.
My experience with older cars says that there are two likely scenarios.?
First, and both of these are very common, the ground for the center has gone bad or at least iffy.?
The second scenario is that the float has become soaked with gasoline and doesn't float anymore or not as well as it should. This is apparently very common on older cork floats. Apparently whatever they quoted them with is soluble in methanol. So the coding wears off, and the float starts to take on fuel and won't rise all the way to the top. I've run into that both with my '48 CJ2A and my 1928 Ford AA.
I have a 50 CJ3A that I’ve owned and used for 54 years. I’ve worked on every component over the years. I have a new issue that I thought I’d ask about here before I started tearing things apart.
The fuel gauge and sender are original and have always worked fine. Recently the gauge started showing less than 1/2 full when I fill the tank completely. So I’d like some advice as to what to do?
Thanks
?
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My experience with older cars says that there are two likely scenarios.?
First, and both of these are very common, the ground for the center has gone bad or at least iffy.?
The second scenario is that the float has become soaked with gasoline and doesn't float anymore or not as well as it should. This is apparently very common on older cork floats. Apparently whatever they quoted them with is soluble in methanol. So the coding wears off, and the float starts to take on fuel and won't rise all the way to the top. I've run into that both with my '48 CJ2A and my 1928 Ford AA.
I have a 50 CJ3A that I’ve owned and used for 54 years. I’ve worked on every component over the years. I have a new issue that I thought I’d ask about here before I started tearing things apart.
The fuel gauge and sender are original and have always worked fine. Recently the gauge started showing less than 1/2 full when I fill the tank completely. So I’d like some advice as to what to do?
Thanks
?
|
I have a 50 CJ3A that I’ve owned and used for 54 years. I’ve worked on every component over the years. I have a new issue that I thought I’d ask about here before I started tearing things apart.
The fuel gauge and sender are original and have always worked fine. Recently the gauge started showing less than 1/2 full when I fill the tank completely. So I’d like some advice as to what to do?
Thanks
?
|
Hi Scott, ? Way back in 2008 I installed a Pertronix electronic ignition module #2541 and their Flame Thrower coil #40511 (12 volt).? They worked good for 5 years and then one day the coil just quit working for me.? I installed another one and it has lasted for eleven years with no problems so far.? I increased the spark plug gaps to .045” on advice from others here because of the hotter spark that the Pertronix puts out. ? Rick McDowell Osceola, Iowa ? ? ? What about pertronix ignition? Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of jay bernhardt via groups.io <bitrootvz@...>
Sent: Sunday, March 2, 2025 8:11:47 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [WillysTech] What's going on? Sorry on my response as I had switched over to 12v. Didn't get that this was a 6v discussion. ? I've asked? around and no one supports a 6 volt solid state F-134 distributor replacement, I tweaked up to a 8 volt battery. Got 9.4 at good rpm runs great with extra head light reach. Still would really like to go a solid state distributor.? On Sunday, March 2, 2025 at 11:02:35 AM MST, K. R. via <kr98664=[email protected]> wrote: Re: 6v electronic distributor One minor caution for those considering ditching mechanical points in favor of electronic. I tried a conversion kit on my 6 volt CJ-2A (L134) some time ago, maybe 20 years back. It ran great but maybe 10% of the time it would not start. On those occasions it would sometime fire up when I released the starter. Push starts worked, but of course this was not always practical. After some serious head-scratching and precision use of foul language, I finally figured out the cause. Under the massive electric draw of the starter, battery voltage drops down around 5V. This is perfectly normal and not a fault. Unfortunately, that was also the lower limit for the electronics to function. Most times all was good and the engine fired right up, as available voltage hovered just above the magic limit. But if voltage dipped just enough, no joy. The starter operation seemed the same, so it wasn't like a fault dragging down the voltage. Normal operation left very little margin for the ignition to fire, that's all. Those times the engine fired after releasing the starter? That was a recovery of battery power as the crankshaft was still spinning down, but you could not count on it. Sorry, I do not remember which brand that was. Newer products may not have this problem.
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What about pertronix ignition?
Sent via the Samsung Galaxy S21 5G, an AT&T 5G smartphone
Get
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Sorry on my response as I had switched over to 12v. Didn't get that this was a 6v discussion.
I've asked? around and no one supports a 6 volt solid state F-134 distributor replacement, I tweaked up to a 8 volt battery. Got 9.4 at good rpm runs great with extra head light reach. Still would really like to go a solid state distributor.?
On Sunday, March 2, 2025 at 11:02:35 AM MST, K. R. via <kr98664= [email protected]> wrote:
Re: 6v electronic distributor
?
One minor caution for those considering ditching mechanical points in favor of electronic. I tried a conversion kit on my 6 volt CJ-2A (L134) some time ago, maybe 20 years back. It ran great but maybe 10% of the time it would not start. On those occasions
it would sometime fire up when I released the starter. Push starts worked, but of course this was not always practical.
?
After some serious head-scratching and precision use of foul language, I finally figured out the cause. Under the massive electric draw of the starter, battery voltage drops down around 5V. This is perfectly normal and not a fault. Unfortunately, that
was also the lower limit for the electronics to function. Most times all was good and the engine fired right up, as available voltage hovered just above the magic limit. But if voltage dipped just enough, no joy.
?
The starter operation seemed the same, so it wasn't like a fault dragging down the voltage. Normal operation left very little margin for the ignition to fire, that's all. Those times the engine fired after releasing the starter? That was a recovery of
battery power as the crankshaft was still spinning down, but you could not count on it.
?
Sorry, I do not remember which brand that was. Newer products may not have this problem.
?
Hope all are doing well.
?
Regards,
?
Dr. Vern
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jay bernhardt
Sean Kerns