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Re: Another OT

Kyle
 

Congrats John!!
now that's good news.


--- In WillysTech@..., John Barrett <jbarrettII@...> wrote:

I got a new grandson tonight! My son got his leave and was able to
come
home from Afghanistan for the birth. Friday morning my wife and I are
flying to Tacoma area for the weekend. I'll be able to hug my son and
grandson.

John
'56 Pickup TKER TOY
Cherry Valley, Calif.


bed removal

pickup48willys
 

Hello everyone,
This weekend i am planning on taking the bed off of my parts truck to
move it into the garage to start work on it. Is there anything that
might hold it up? Is it as simple as pulling the 6 or 8 bolts and
lifting it off? Thanks for any advice.

Jesse in idaho
1948 truck
1950 parts truck


Re: L6-161 Lightning Motor Question...

 

If the stud is sticking above the block I normally soak it with blaster and then weld a nut on. Usually will come out then. Best thing to do with EASY OUTS is to loan them to a person you no longer desire as a friend


Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...

 

Merl,

What a great laugh I had when I saw the picture of your creation.

You haven't been holding up banks lately, have you? It looks like a
good get away car. When you get home just shed the extra appendages
and go get some ice cream at the local Dairy Queen.

Oh yea, nice wheels!

Bruce
47 cj2a
62 4x4 wagon


--- In WillysTech@..., "Merl" <stinkyjeep@...> wrote:

My 2A's original colors were Normandy Blue body tub with Sunset Red
wheels. When researching the colors a few years ago I read on
the old Classic Jeep list that the Sunset Red was never red at
all, but a bright orange comparable to a 70's Ford pickup orange.
From a distance it looks (to me) very close to Home Depot orange,
which is available at, well, you know where. On my wheels it
looks like this...


--
Merl, Tejas

--- In WillysTech@..., "Greg Bryant" <greg.bryant@>
wrote:

Are you sure the pumpkin color wasn't their "autumn wheat"? I've
seen
it where it had faded to a nice pumpkin color.



Try the attached link and enter Willys with the '59 year and
you'll
see
autumn wheat - looks orange to me.



________________________________

From: WillysTech@...
[mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of Blake Reynolds
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:31 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...



Thanks for the reply Robert and SF. I've looked at several
websites
that I have saved over time for the color code for the pumpkin
orange color and can't find it. I think Willys called it "Sunset
Red". The only "red" I have found is called "Harvard Red" and it
looks too "red". I guess I could go down to the local auto paint
supply house and look at their color choices for one that I like.
If anyone has a pic of their orange wheels or has a color code
I'd
be grateful!

Thanks again!!
Blake
[snip]


Re: Lotsa old jeeps for sale!

 

try this. click on Michigan....Mark -
-- In WillysTech@..., Nick <nickgbb@...> wrote:

I don't see any M38s in Michigan. Are you talking about
govliquidation.com?


Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...

Chris Lange
 

Merl, I think your CJ is growing extra appendages. Or perhaps, this was some sort of crossbreed between a pickup and a MB?
All the more reason not to park all your Willys in the same garage. These things will happen.....



Nice wheels though,

Chris
Cortland, NY

----- Original Message -----
From: Merl
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:58 PM
Subject: Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...


My 2A's original colors were Normandy Blue body tub with Sunset Red
wheels. When researching the colors a few years ago I read on
the old Classic Jeep list that the Sunset Red was never red at
all, but a bright orange comparable to a 70's Ford pickup orange.
>From a distance it looks (to me) very close to Home Depot orange,
which is available at, well, you know where. On my wheels it
looks like this...


--
Merl, Tejas

--- In WillysTech@..., "Greg Bryant" <greg.bryant@...>
wrote:
>
> Are you sure the pumpkin color wasn't their "autumn wheat"? I've
seen
> it where it had faded to a nice pumpkin color.
>
>
>
> Try the attached link and enter Willys with the '59 year and you'll
see
> autumn wheat - looks orange to me.
>
>
>
> ________________________________
>
> From: WillysTech@...
[mailto:WillysTech@...] On
> Behalf Of Blake Reynolds
> Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:31 PM
> To: WillysTech@...
> Subject: Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...
>
>
>
> Thanks for the reply Robert and SF. I've looked at several websites
> that I have saved over time for the color code for the pumpkin
> orange color and can't find it. I think Willys called it "Sunset
> Red". The only "red" I have found is called "Harvard Red" and it
> looks too "red". I guess I could go down to the local auto paint
> supply house and look at their color choices for one that I like.
> If anyone has a pic of their orange wheels or has a color code I'd
> be grateful!
>
> Thanks again!!
> Blake
>
[snip]


Re: Brake Problems

Donny H. Dickey
 

Most likley your cylinders have rusted a bit, but here is something to
check before you start stripping parts.

How is your pedal travel? If the pedal had several inches of travel
does it firm up if you pump it quickily? If so, I'd bleed the lines
and see if it improves. Next try jacking the car up (you can do one
wheel at at a time). Spin the wheel and apply the brakes and observe
how the wheel stopsIt should stop quickly but smoothly (just how quick
and smooth will depend on how you apply the brake). This will tell
you if any particular drum is hung either because of frozen
mechanicals (stuck shoe or pivot) or rusted wheel cylinder.


--- In WillysTech@..., "her_white_wolf"
<her_white_wolf@...> wrote:

I have a '48 Willy CJ2a, w/ stock brakes. Hasn't been driven for about
2 years. I am having a problem with the brakes. I have to literally
stand on them to get it to stop. Stopping fast is out of the
question. Have read the TM on it and it is not very helpful on
diagnosing the problem. Any help from the experts is greatly
appreciated. Contacted Willys Overland and was told could be anything.

Thanks,
Chet


Willys withdrawal symptoms - old vs 'new' or at least newer ...

Tony G
 

The long overdue and drawn out overhaul of FrankenJeep continues (we
are working on some Boeing 727 undercarriage components now to use as
rear trailing arms) and the opportunity came up to buy a mint
condition 1980 red CJ7 soft top , this thing is so nice I will have
to think twice before taking it off road.

It has been owned by an Australian friend of mine for 3 years and he
is now heading back home and to import it to Australia is going to
cause headaches

To be honest its nice to drive , it even has a CD player (my other 3
jeeps dont even have AM radio) but something is MISSING !

How can a 40 year old YOUNGER model Jeep with heaps more power ,
confy , air cond etc be less fun to drive ?

When I drive FrankenJeep I really smile , with the CJ7 its a grin ...
is it the clunky 3 speed gearbox , squeaky suspension and the throaty
drone of the F head and the smell of oil dripping from the transfer
case that I miss ?

Anyone else had this let down with later model Jeeps ? I cant imagine
the toxic shock a plastic 2000 something Jeep would give , at least
the CJ7 os 90% steel wherever I look

Regards

Tony G
Jakarta , Indonesia


Re: Lotsa old jeeps for sale!

Nick
 

I don't see any M38s in Michigan. Are you talking about govliquidation.com?


Re: [WT] Home made dry sump system for an F Head ?

Tony G
 

--- In WillysTech@..., "Kurt Valentine" <KValent118@...>
wrote:

That is how a dry sump system works. I would think you have plenty
of room
in the oil pan for the scavenger pump, but where would run the line
from the
oil tank back to the engine? My Porsche 911 uses a dry sump system
and the
oil dipstick is in the tank and not the engine.

The pump would be externally mounted but self priming so the intake
of the pump would need to be lower or the same height as the scavenge
lines in the sump

To get oil to the oil pump I'm thinking of tapping a line back INTO
the sump area and then connecting straight into the oil pump pick up

I have boxes of AN aircraft hose fittings including the dual male
fittings for bulk heads and firewalls so one of those would do it
nicely

A bit of an unknown for me is the multi stage scavenge pumps (3 to 5
stages) the racing guys use , I guess for high RPM / high g cornering
in a race car these may be necessary however I'm thinking just a
simple electrical or mechanically driven pump for an F head

Has ANYONE ever done this before to a F head ???

Regards

Tony G
Jakarta , Indonesia


P/U small window glass

 

Does anyone have a small rear P/U glass they could make me a paper-template that i could take to the glass shop to get one made, il pay for postage or it might even be able to be faxed. Thanks
Bruce
'51 and '53 Willys Pu






____________________________________________________________________________________
Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell.


Re: [WT] Re: Brake Problems

 

When I got my willy (47 cj2a) The breaks were one of the issues & I had a similar problem, I replaced the maser cylinder and I bleed them very thoroughly in order.
All brake issues were fixed!
Bob, Az

----- Original Message ----
From: lross7170 <lross7170@...>
To: WillysTech@...
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2007 10:12:49 PM
Subject: [WT] Re: Brake Problems













Chet,

I had the same problem with my '48 CJ2A. When I did a brake job I found

that the wheel cylinders were rusted and not working very well. The

brakes work better but they are still not like power brakes. It stops

but locking up the brakes is out of the question.



I hope this helps,



Larry

1948 CJ2A



--- In WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com, "her_white_wolf"

<her_white_wolf@ ...> wrote:

I have a '48 Willy CJ2a, w/ stock brakes. Hasn't been driven for
about

2 years. I am having a problem with the brakes. I have to literally
stand on them to get it to stop. Stopping fast is out of the
question. Have read the TM on it and it is not very helpful on
diagnosing the problem. Any help from the experts is greatly
appreciated. Contacted Willys Overland and was told could be
anything.

Thanks,
Chet













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____________________________________________________________________________________
Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos.


Re: Brake Problems

lross7170
 

Chet,
I had the same problem with my '48 CJ2A. When I did a brake job I found
that the wheel cylinders were rusted and not working very well. The
brakes work better but they are still not like power brakes. It stops
but locking up the brakes is out of the question.

I hope this helps,

Larry
1948 CJ2A

--- In WillysTech@..., "her_white_wolf"
<her_white_wolf@...> wrote:

I have a '48 Willy CJ2a, w/ stock brakes. Hasn't been driven for
about
2 years. I am having a problem with the brakes. I have to literally
stand on them to get it to stop. Stopping fast is out of the
question. Have read the TM on it and it is not very helpful on
diagnosing the problem. Any help from the experts is greatly
appreciated. Contacted Willys Overland and was told could be
anything.

Thanks,
Chet


Re: [WT] Brake Problems

 

Yep, could be anything sounds about right. Having sat that long it's
possible wheel cylinders have rusted a bit, or master cylinder has
rusted a bit, flexible lines might have collapsed, might have problems
inside the drums. Try bleeding the brakes and see how well the fluid
comes out of the bleeder screws.

David
'50 4WD Pickup

On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 21:07:37 -0000, her_white_wolf wrote:

I have a '48 Willy CJ2a, w/ stock brakes. Hasn't been driven for about
2 years. I am having a problem with the brakes. I have to literally
stand on them to get it to stop. Stopping fast is out of the
question. Have read the TM on it and it is not very helpful on
diagnosing the problem. Any help from the experts is greatly
appreciated. Contacted Willys Overland and was told could be anything.


Re: [WT] For Sale

Richard Willhite
 

Don't know the answer to that one but if you have a carter carb for sale, let me know. All I need is the linkage on it, this if for the 226 FH L engine. Rich55 PU


It has been a while, do we post here or in a for sale area if we have
Willys Original parts for sale?

Thanks,

Tom






---------------------------------
Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV.


Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...

DANA NEIDHARDT
 

Yeah, that's the color of the wheels on my '48 truck. I thought they were more of a red but after some 'deep cleaning' on the back sides of the wheels the color's more of an orangy-red than a real red.

Rattle cans would be good for the wheels: Paint the insides black like the new mfgrs do and use the Sunset Red on the outside where you see it.

Dana N.

48 4WD


Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...

 

My 2A's original colors were Normandy Blue body tub with Sunset Red
wheels. When researching the colors a few years ago I read on
the old Classic Jeep list that the Sunset Red was never red at
all, but a bright orange comparable to a 70's Ford pickup orange.
From a distance it looks (to me) very close to Home Depot orange,
which is available at, well, you know where. On my wheels it
looks like this...


--
Merl, Tejas

--- In WillysTech@..., "Greg Bryant" <greg.bryant@...>
wrote:

Are you sure the pumpkin color wasn't their "autumn wheat"? I've
seen
it where it had faded to a nice pumpkin color.



Try the attached link and enter Willys with the '59 year and you'll
see
autumn wheat - looks orange to me.



________________________________

From: WillysTech@...
[mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of Blake Reynolds
Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:31 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...



Thanks for the reply Robert and SF. I've looked at several websites
that I have saved over time for the color code for the pumpkin
orange color and can't find it. I think Willys called it "Sunset
Red". The only "red" I have found is called "Harvard Red" and it
looks too "red". I guess I could go down to the local auto paint
supply house and look at their color choices for one that I like.
If anyone has a pic of their orange wheels or has a color code I'd
be grateful!

Thanks again!!
Blake
[snip]


Re: [WT] Re: L6-161 Lightning Motor Question...

Harold Miller
 

I will post an update for sure.



I had to work late tonight, but a trip to Sears at lunch tomorrow will
hopefully see me in the correct direction.



If not then out come the drill bits and drill.



I would like to save this motor as it is the original for the wagon and even
has the overdrive... at least the knob is there on the dash.



Hal



_____

From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On
Behalf Of autoid_lurker
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:10 PM
To: WillysTech@...
Subject: [WT] Re: L6-161 Lightning Motor Question...



Question is; do the thermostat housing bolts go all the way into the
block???
I didn't see anyone mention whether or not the bolts go through to the
block. If you do get the head off, can you post what was holding the
front on?

I too have a stuck L6 (229) in my 1962 PU. I also can not get it to
turn with a socket and pipe. So I'm fixing to pull off the head as
time permits.

PS. I third the motion about the easy out. Too easy to break off-
hardened steel can require electrode burning to remove. Hopefully the
head is not held on and you can get a vicegrip on the remining shank of
the bolt when the head is removed.


Re: Ground Straps on a 1951 Truck

 

My 53 pickup has a strap in the rear from the frame to the bed as
well.

WillysTech@..., "wrhickey2002" <william.hickey@...> wrote:

Hello,
I am installing my wiring harness and getting the ground straps in
place. I have run my negative battery cable directly to a starter
mounting bolt as per a Dr. Vern modifcation that I saw here some
time
ago. I believe these trucks also had a strap from the engine block
to
the lower engine mounting plate to provide a ground for the frame ?
Is
that correct ? or would it be wise to not bother with the factory
engine to frame connection and just run another strap from the
starter
mounting bolt directly to the lower engine mount plate ? Also, what
about the body ? Did the factory provide a strap from the cab body
to
the frame ? If so, where were the conections made ?



Thanks in advance !

Bill


Re: L6-161 Lightning Motor Question...

 

Question is; do the thermostat housing bolts go all the way into the
block???
I didn't see anyone mention whether or not the bolts go through to the
block. If you do get the head off, can you post what was holding the
front on?

I too have a stuck L6 (229) in my 1962 PU. I also can not get it to
turn with a socket and pipe. So I'm fixing to pull off the head as
time permits.


PS. I third the motion about the easy out. Too easy to break off-
hardened steel can require electrode burning to remove. Hopefully the
head is not held on and you can get a vicegrip on the remining shank of
the bolt when the head is removed.