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Re: Another OT
Kyle
Congrats John!!
now that's good news. --- In WillysTech@..., John Barrett <jbarrettII@...> wrote: come home from Afghanistan for the birth. Friday morning my wife and I are |
bed removal
pickup48willys
Hello everyone,
This weekend i am planning on taking the bed off of my parts truck to move it into the garage to start work on it. Is there anything that might hold it up? Is it as simple as pulling the 6 or 8 bolts and lifting it off? Thanks for any advice. Jesse in idaho 1948 truck 1950 parts truck |
Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...
Merl,
What a great laugh I had when I saw the picture of your creation. You haven't been holding up banks lately, have you? It looks like a good get away car. When you get home just shed the extra appendages and go get some ice cream at the local Dairy Queen. Oh yea, nice wheels! Bruce 47 cj2a 62 4x4 wagon --- In WillysTech@..., "Merl" <stinkyjeep@...> wrote: you'll seewebsitesautumn wheat - looks orange to me.[mailto:WillysTech@...] On I'dthat I have saved over time for the color code for the pumpkin be grateful![snip] |
Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...
Chris Lange
Merl, I think your CJ is growing extra appendages. Or perhaps, this was some sort of crossbreed between a pickup and a MB?
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All the more reason not to park all your Willys in the same garage. These things will happen..... Nice wheels though, Chris Cortland, NY ----- Original Message -----
From: Merl To: WillysTech@... Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:58 PM Subject: Re: [WT] Rattle can paint... My 2A's original colors were Normandy Blue body tub with Sunset Red wheels. When researching the colors a few years ago I read on the old Classic Jeep list that the Sunset Red was never red at all, but a bright orange comparable to a 70's Ford pickup orange. >From a distance it looks (to me) very close to Home Depot orange, which is available at, well, you know where. On my wheels it looks like this... -- Merl, Tejas --- In WillysTech@..., "Greg Bryant" <greg.bryant@...> wrote: > > Are you sure the pumpkin color wasn't their "autumn wheat"? I've seen > it where it had faded to a nice pumpkin color. > > > > Try the attached link and enter Willys with the '59 year and you'll see > autumn wheat - looks orange to me. > > > > ________________________________ > > From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On > Behalf Of Blake Reynolds > Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 7:31 PM > To: WillysTech@... > Subject: Re: [WT] Rattle can paint... > > > > Thanks for the reply Robert and SF. I've looked at several websites > that I have saved over time for the color code for the pumpkin > orange color and can't find it. I think Willys called it "Sunset > Red". The only "red" I have found is called "Harvard Red" and it > looks too "red". I guess I could go down to the local auto paint > supply house and look at their color choices for one that I like. > If anyone has a pic of their orange wheels or has a color code I'd > be grateful! > > Thanks again!! > Blake > [snip] |
Re: Brake Problems
Donny H. Dickey
Most likley your cylinders have rusted a bit, but here is something to
check before you start stripping parts. How is your pedal travel? If the pedal had several inches of travel does it firm up if you pump it quickily? If so, I'd bleed the lines and see if it improves. Next try jacking the car up (you can do one wheel at at a time). Spin the wheel and apply the brakes and observe how the wheel stopsIt should stop quickly but smoothly (just how quick and smooth will depend on how you apply the brake). This will tell you if any particular drum is hung either because of frozen mechanicals (stuck shoe or pivot) or rusted wheel cylinder. --- In WillysTech@..., "her_white_wolf" <her_white_wolf@...> wrote:
|
Willys withdrawal symptoms - old vs 'new' or at least newer ...
Tony G
The long overdue and drawn out overhaul of FrankenJeep continues (we
are working on some Boeing 727 undercarriage components now to use as rear trailing arms) and the opportunity came up to buy a mint condition 1980 red CJ7 soft top , this thing is so nice I will have to think twice before taking it off road. It has been owned by an Australian friend of mine for 3 years and he is now heading back home and to import it to Australia is going to cause headaches To be honest its nice to drive , it even has a CD player (my other 3 jeeps dont even have AM radio) but something is MISSING ! How can a 40 year old YOUNGER model Jeep with heaps more power , confy , air cond etc be less fun to drive ? When I drive FrankenJeep I really smile , with the CJ7 its a grin ... is it the clunky 3 speed gearbox , squeaky suspension and the throaty drone of the F head and the smell of oil dripping from the transfer case that I miss ? Anyone else had this let down with later model Jeeps ? I cant imagine the toxic shock a plastic 2000 something Jeep would give , at least the CJ7 os 90% steel wherever I look Regards Tony G Jakarta , Indonesia |
Re: [WT] Home made dry sump system for an F Head ?
Tony G
--- In WillysTech@..., "Kurt Valentine" <KValent118@...>
wrote: of room in the oil pan for the scavenger pump, but where would run the linefrom the oil tank back to the engine? My Porsche 911 uses a dry sump systemand the oil dipstick is in the tank and not the engine. The pump would be externally mounted but self priming so the intake of the pump would need to be lower or the same height as the scavenge lines in the sump To get oil to the oil pump I'm thinking of tapping a line back INTO the sump area and then connecting straight into the oil pump pick up I have boxes of AN aircraft hose fittings including the dual male fittings for bulk heads and firewalls so one of those would do it nicely A bit of an unknown for me is the multi stage scavenge pumps (3 to 5 stages) the racing guys use , I guess for high RPM / high g cornering in a race car these may be necessary however I'm thinking just a simple electrical or mechanically driven pump for an F head Has ANYONE ever done this before to a F head ??? Regards Tony G Jakarta , Indonesia |
P/U small window glass
Does anyone have a small rear P/U glass they could make me a paper-template that i could take to the glass shop to get one made, il pay for postage or it might even be able to be faxed. Thanks
Bruce '51 and '53 Willys Pu ____________________________________________________________________________________ Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. |
Re: [WT] Re: Brake Problems
When I got my willy (47 cj2a) The breaks were one of the issues & I had a similar problem, I replaced the maser cylinder and I bleed them very thoroughly in order.
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All brake issues were fixed! Bob, Az ----- Original Message ----
From: lross7170 <lross7170@...> To: WillysTech@... Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2007 10:12:49 PM Subject: [WT] Re: Brake Problems Chet, I had the same problem with my '48 CJ2A. When I did a brake job I found that the wheel cylinders were rusted and not working very well. The brakes work better but they are still not like power brakes. It stops but locking up the brakes is out of the question. I hope this helps, Larry 1948 CJ2A --- In WillysTech@yahoogro ups.com, "her_white_wolf" <her_white_wolf@ ...> wrote: I have a '48 Willy CJ2a, w/ stock brakes. Hasn't been driven forabout 2 years. I am having a problem with the brakes. I have to literally stand on them to get it to stop. Stopping fast is out of the question. Have read the TM on it and it is not very helpful on diagnosing the problem. Any help from the experts is greatly appreciated. Contacted Willys Overland and was told could beanything. Thanks, Chet <!-- #ygrp-mkp{ border:1px solid #d8d8d8;font-family:Arial;margin:14px 0px;padding:0px 14px;} #ygrp-mkp hr{ border:1px solid #d8d8d8;} #ygrp-mkp #hd{ color:#628c2a;font-size:85%;font-weight:bold;line-height:122%;margin:10px 0px;} #ygrp-mkp #ads{ margin-bottom:10px;} #ygrp-mkp .ad{ padding:0 0;} #ygrp-mkp .ad a{ color:#0000ff;text-decoration:none;} --> <!-- #ygrp-sponsor #ygrp-lc{ font-family:Arial;} #ygrp-sponsor #ygrp-lc #hd{ margin:10px 0px;font-weight:bold;font-size:78%;line-height:122%;} #ygrp-sponsor #ygrp-lc .ad{ margin-bottom:10px;padding:0 0;} --> <!-- #ygrp-mlmsg {font-size:13px;font-family:arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif;} #ygrp-mlmsg table {font-size:inherit;font:100%;} #ygrp-mlmsg select, input, textarea {font:99% arial, helvetica, clean, sans-serif;} #ygrp-mlmsg pre, code {font:115% monospace;} #ygrp-mlmsg * {line-height:1.22em;} #ygrp-text{ font-family:Georgia; } #ygrp-text p{ margin:0 0 1em 0;} #ygrp-tpmsgs{ font-family:Arial; clear:both;} #ygrp-vitnav{ padding-top:10px;font-family:Verdana;font-size:77%;margin:0;} #ygrp-vitnav a{ padding:0 1px;} #ygrp-actbar{ clear:both;margin:25px 0;white-space:nowrap;color:#666;text-align:right;} #ygrp-actbar .left{ float:left;white-space:nowrap;} .bld{font-weight:bold;} #ygrp-grft{ font-family:Verdana;font-size:77%;padding:15px 0;} #ygrp-ft{ font-family:verdana;font-size:77%;border-top:1px solid #666; padding:5px 0; } #ygrp-mlmsg #logo{ padding-bottom:10px;} #ygrp-vital{ background-color:#e0ecee;margin-bottom:20px;padding:2px 0 8px 8px;} #ygrp-vital #vithd{ font-size:77%;font-family:Verdana;font-weight:bold;color:#333;text-transform:uppercase;} #ygrp-vital ul{ padding:0;margin:2px 0;} #ygrp-vital ul li{ list-style-type:none;clear:both;border:1px solid #e0ecee; } #ygrp-vital ul li .ct{ font-weight:bold;color:#ff7900;float:right;width:2em;text-align:right;padding-right:.5em;} #ygrp-vital ul li .cat{ font-weight:bold;} #ygrp-vital a{ text-decoration:none;} #ygrp-vital a:hover{ text-decoration:underline;} #ygrp-sponsor #hd{ color:#999;font-size:77%;} #ygrp-sponsor #ov{ padding:6px 13px;background-color:#e0ecee;margin-bottom:20px;} #ygrp-sponsor #ov ul{ padding:0 0 0 8px;margin:0;} #ygrp-sponsor #ov li{ list-style-type:square;padding:6px 0;font-size:77%;} #ygrp-sponsor #ov li a{ text-decoration:none;font-size:130%;} #ygrp-sponsor #nc{ background-color:#eee;margin-bottom:20px;padding:0 8px;} #ygrp-sponsor .ad{ padding:8px 0;} #ygrp-sponsor .ad #hd1{ font-family:Arial;font-weight:bold;color:#628c2a;font-size:100%;line-height:122%;} #ygrp-sponsor .ad a{ text-decoration:none;} #ygrp-sponsor .ad a:hover{ text-decoration:underline;} #ygrp-sponsor .ad p{ margin:0;} o{font-size:0;} .MsoNormal{ margin:0 0 0 0;} #ygrp-text tt{ font-size:120%;} blockquote{margin:0 0 0 4px;} .replbq{margin:4;} --> ____________________________________________________________________________________ Don't let your dream ride pass you by. Make it a reality with Yahoo! Autos. |
Re: Brake Problems
lross7170
Chet,
I had the same problem with my '48 CJ2A. When I did a brake job I found that the wheel cylinders were rusted and not working very well. The brakes work better but they are still not like power brakes. It stops but locking up the brakes is out of the question. I hope this helps, Larry 1948 CJ2A --- In WillysTech@..., "her_white_wolf" <her_white_wolf@...> wrote: about 2 years. I am having a problem with the brakes. I have to literallyanything.
|
Re: [WT] Brake Problems
Yep, could be anything sounds about right. Having sat that long it's
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possible wheel cylinders have rusted a bit, or master cylinder has rusted a bit, flexible lines might have collapsed, might have problems inside the drums. Try bleeding the brakes and see how well the fluid comes out of the bleeder screws. David '50 4WD Pickup On Wed, 03 Oct 2007 21:07:37 -0000, her_white_wolf wrote:
I have a '48 Willy CJ2a, w/ stock brakes. Hasn't been driven for about |
Re: [WT] For Sale
Richard Willhite
Don't know the answer to that one but if you have a carter carb for sale, let me know. All I need is the linkage on it, this if for the 226 FH L engine. Rich55 PU
It has been a while, do we post here or in a for sale area if we have Willys Original parts for sale? Thanks, Tom --------------------------------- Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest shows on Yahoo! TV. |
Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...
DANA NEIDHARDT
Yeah, that's the color of the wheels on my '48 truck. I thought they were more of a red but after some 'deep cleaning' on the back sides of the wheels the color's more of an orangy-red than a real red.
Rattle cans would be good for the wheels: Paint the insides black like the new mfgrs do and use the Sunset Red on the outside where you see it. Dana N. 48 4WD |
Re: [WT] Rattle can paint...
My 2A's original colors were Normandy Blue body tub with Sunset Red
wheels. When researching the colors a few years ago I read on the old Classic Jeep list that the Sunset Red was never red at all, but a bright orange comparable to a 70's Ford pickup orange. From a distance it looks (to me) very close to Home Depot orange, which is available at, well, you know where. On my wheels it looks like this... -- Merl, Tejas --- In WillysTech@..., "Greg Bryant" <greg.bryant@...> wrote: seen it where it had faded to a nice pumpkin color.see autumn wheat - looks orange to me.[mailto:WillysTech@...] On Behalf Of Blake Reynolds[snip] |
Re: [WT] Re: L6-161 Lightning Motor Question...
Harold Miller
I will post an update for sure.
I had to work late tonight, but a trip to Sears at lunch tomorrow will hopefully see me in the correct direction. If not then out come the drill bits and drill. I would like to save this motor as it is the original for the wagon and even has the overdrive... at least the knob is there on the dash. Hal _____ From: WillysTech@... [mailto:WillysTech@...] On Behalf Of autoid_lurker Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 8:10 PM To: WillysTech@... Subject: [WT] Re: L6-161 Lightning Motor Question... Question is; do the thermostat housing bolts go all the way into theI didn't see anyone mention whether or not the bolts go through to the block. If you do get the head off, can you post what was holding the front on? I too have a stuck L6 (229) in my 1962 PU. I also can not get it to turn with a socket and pipe. So I'm fixing to pull off the head as time permits. PS. I third the motion about the easy out. Too easy to break off- hardened steel can require electrode burning to remove. Hopefully the head is not held on and you can get a vicegrip on the remining shank of the bolt when the head is removed. |
Re: Ground Straps on a 1951 Truck
My 53 pickup has a strap in the rear from the frame to the bed as
well. WillysTech@..., "wrhickey2002" <william.hickey@...> wrote: time ago. I believe these trucks also had a strap from the engine blockto the lower engine mounting plate to provide a ground for the frame ?Is that correct ? or would it be wise to not bother with the factorystarter mounting bolt directly to the lower engine mount plate ? Also, whatto the frame ? If so, where were the conections made ? |
Re: L6-161 Lightning Motor Question...
Question is; do the thermostat housing bolts go all the way into theI didn't see anyone mention whether or not the bolts go through to the block. If you do get the head off, can you post what was holding the front on? I too have a stuck L6 (229) in my 1962 PU. I also can not get it to turn with a socket and pipe. So I'm fixing to pull off the head as time permits. PS. I third the motion about the easy out. Too easy to break off- hardened steel can require electrode burning to remove. Hopefully the head is not held on and you can get a vicegrip on the remining shank of the bolt when the head is removed. |
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