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The Superwich hubs have been removed, but not in the way I had hoped. I bought a Allen driver to fit my impact driver, went home and gave it a shot. After several blows on the bolt the head was

Thanks Robert! Its true and I think I found the ideal spot for where the motor could go! Right next to the drive shaft to the rear differential. behind the transfercase there is plenty of space on my

Man,I can relate. Body work take a bunch of time. I have the cab and bed left to paint. But, those are the two biggest pieces. The rest of the parts all turned out pretty darn good. I don't like this

Morning All, I bought a wagon last March that has blown 225 V6 installed. I bought a 225 block with the idea of building a new one. I am now toying with idea of putting a L226 back in as was

John, I know how you feel. I was in motorcycle crash in April of 06 at which time I lost my left leg. My CJ sat till all winter before the crash and until this summer when I got back to being able to

That's a bummer. It looks great in the pictures! My rear fenders took the most time as they were really beat up. If I did it again I would just buy new fiberglass ones. The fellow that is doing my

Way to go John!!! Have one for me as well!!! Congrats! Chris Cortland, NY

John congrats. Your about 3-4 weeks ahead of me. Looks Great!! I had to send mine back to a different body shop as the first one screwed the cab up big time. I am suing the original body shop as they

Very true Ric. You would think I would have figured that out as long as I have been around jeeps. But guess I keep forgetting that "things change" when it comes to Jeeps, especially old Jeeps. Keith

That must be one great feeling! your p/u looks really good by the way! I am hoping to get our wag up on its own power soon but it has been sitting for 25 years. Great job on your resto! wrote: break

John, On he subject of flat towing, do you tie into the Jeep brakes? How?? PRuit

That's me. I generally don't drink, but thought this occasion warranted it! John for you... break in http://www.aol.com

The late CJ3A used a 129 tooth flywheel and a key start "closed nose" starter. That requires a flywheel and bellhousing change. The other possibility is a MZ4163 starter from a Henry-J. That is a key

Tonight the Willys moved on its own power for the first time in 14 months. A simple trip out of the barn and back in was enough to break open a bottle of champaign with the family! Look under "coming

OK, next problem. I need a set of motor mounts. Not the rubber part but the mounts that rivet to the frame. My 2a frame doesn't have any on it and the ones I picked up used are welded to the frame

WAY TO GO JOHN!!!!!! Ain't it a great feeling?!?!?!?! So glad for you... Is that you with the bottle of Bubbly? Don ==================

Doing what you did should have required changes to the starter if it was the factory setup. Sounds like someone had possibly swapped in a 2A setup. David '50 4WD Pickup

Hey John Was it a floor starter switch or the manual floor linkage style? Keith

My '51 3A had a push-button starter. It seemed to be original; however I could not tell. I welded up the pushl-button hole and replaced the simple turn-key ignition to a key-start ignition. None of

David--you surely are correct--I was thinking only of "tub" jeeps. Completely forgot about all the other applications.. Seems to me I read/heard somewhere that it was used on the CJ3 for only about