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I was sent several Walthers single crossovers. For signaling purposes do I need to cut gaps on the crossover section? If so, where? VH

I'll be using 22 awg solid wire. I'm seeing different descriptions such as solid copper hook up, sold tinned copper with pvc insulation, silicone and others. I'm sure there are other types also so my question is what is/has everyone used succesfully? Wires will be attached with resistance soldering per Allan Gartners June 2021 Model Railroader article to Atlas HO code 100 NS. Thanks, John

What are some tried and true alternatives to the P515 transformer? Thank you, Michael Boyle

Is there a DCC way to designate a section of track as SLOW, or to put in a auto STOP at a terminus?

I have installed a PSXX Circuit Breaker Rev E on my layout and a PSXX-AR Reverser on a WYE Any of three locos equipped with DCC decoder will sit on track and lights will work, horn and bell will sound “on command”, even the lights will reverse when direction is reversed. But, when forward or reverse speed is given, the loco will move a little then equipment will show a short. Sequence is essentially, all green on both boards and loco begins to move, blue light on PSXX circuit breaker blinks, one of two green lights on that board goes off, then blue off and red light on at circuit breaker. I am using an MRC Prodigy Express system with the PSXX modules. I'm a little concerned that the MRC unit only puts out 1.6 amps so I cannot really increase the breaker amps beyond 1 amp or the breaker would never work. . . I think. Very small layout -- 4X6' with 2X8' extension. If there’s an obvious answer, please let me know. If not, I’ll continue researching.

Every once in a while, people reach out on the Internet for local wiring help. In order for this to work, someone in your area needs to be reading the post. Maybe more effective is to reach out at your local train store to see if they know anyone willing to help others in the area. Maybe they will even let you put up a flier there. Of course, reach out to local clubs and the NMRA and see if they have anyone that can help you. Modelers in the Dallas, TX area, like JoAnn who asked this question are lucky. There is a very active NMRA division there and 22 train clubs as well as a great local train store (Discount Model Trains) There are modelers across the country that you can hire to help you with wiring or any other aspect of model building. Start your own club! When I lived in the Dallas area, I had a large layout. If I did all the work myself, it might not have ever gotten it finished. So I started my own club. I provided pizza and drinks and once a week, about a half dozen modelers would come and work on my layout. It was like a club, but without dues. So modelers who didn't or couldn't have their own layout, had one in mine. They didn't have to spend any money and as it turned out, some spouses were glad to get their husband out of the house for an evening. That's why my website says: Listen to your wife. "Go play with Allan's trains!" My situation wasn't unique. Many large home layouts have a crew of people that help them with it. So if you need wiring help, try one or several of the above suggestions. Allan Gartner Wiring for DCC

Hello All I have a track that stops at the next block This is a large triangle connected by 3 turnouts. My engine runs thru two of the three turnouts with no issues. I know it is a reverse loop So I ordered an NCE AR10 It has two connections Main Line and Loop I connected the Main line as a test to some track but that bus line has an EB1 on it. So I am going to run a home run bus line from my NCE command station to the AR10 to connect to the Main Line connects. My question is which is the LOOP Block 100 connects Block 105 which is a Turnout All my blocks have one feeder, and the one feeder wire is looped around an NCE BD20 So I disconnected the feeders from Block 100 and connected them to the Loop connector on the AR10 I got short circuit. I then tried on Block 105 same results I flipped the wires still no luck. The only test I did not try yet is the home run wire. Not sure if it is failing because of the EB1 I have a NCE EB1 on each of my Bus Lines My diagram is below All blocks are isolated Any ideas or suggestions Thank you Tom -- Tom Grassi trgrassijr@...

Hi folks: I have a small HO scale model railway (12 x 8) . I use only a single DCS51. One power section, no fancy stuff. In the DCS51 manual it states that CV3 and CV4 are limited to a 0-31 range for adjusting acceleration and braking. I have found that I can enter numbers above 31 and it continues to have an effect. Does this mean that my DCS51 manual is wrong or has the range been extended since I purchased the DCS51 some 5 years ago? I am happy that I can enter higher numbers into CV3 and CV4. I am just a little perplexed. Also...I have found recently that CV3 and CV4 'behave' differently when I have CV29 set to a number that uses a speed table. My U-25B came with a speed table installed in the decoder. Does anyone else see this too? Regards Geoff Clarke Guelph Ontario Canada

I recently desided to put a new soundtraxx decoder in an old Athearn Challenger. The MRC decoder had been removed but the Loco has sat for several years. Does anyone know the pinout of the solder pads in the tender that are on the board that attaches to the Loco? Thanks ...tj

Preparing to attach feeders using resistance soldering. The June 2021 Model Railroader article by Allan Gartner is my excellent source of info. Layout is HO with Atlas code 100 track and switches. Allan mentions American Beauty for soldering with 150W to 170W for HO. Have not been able to locate a unit for these wattages. Any source(s) for a unit? Thanks.

Hi! I’m looking for help with my DCC Ammeter. I have had it for number of years and used it as a voltmeter only while building a large layout to test for power, shorts, reversed wiring in hand-held mobile mode. I’m using NCE Power Pro’s to control the layout which is divided into three power districts each with a PSX for short circuit protection. The layout is built and has some glitches and I need to be able to measure current. My specific question is: why am I seeing a reading of 5.24 Amps regardless of where I place the meter. I plug it in line in the different busses and at the booster output, and always get the same current reading.Voltage is 14.2, Current reads 5.22A. I have also tried it on my Power Cab test layout which I use for programming and testing decoders and locos. Voltage 11.8-12.1, Current 5.2A. This suggests a problem with the meter or that I’m using it incorrectly. I’ve tried contacting TTE’s tech support but haven’t heard anything back so I’m hoping someone on here can help me with this problem! Thanks in advance. John

Hi I've spent hours and hours exploring the variables on this and finally figured it out (at 4 am this morning). I'm using a tam valley dual frog juicer to switch polarity on a Peco crossing. Worked on a testbed, not when placed in final configuration on the layout. Sent it back to Tam Valley and he says it checked out. Worked on testbed, not on layout. You can imagine the words spoken. Hooked up a DCC specialties PSX and it worked... Finally figured out that I was using a SPROG 3 on the testbed and ESU Command Station on the layout. I think the Command Station battles with the Frog Juicer on the short and gives up. I'll run this by Duncan at Tam Valley, but interested if anyone has a solution for this? I'd just use the PSX board, but I need an autoreverser as well...

All, I added another section to my Wiring for DCC website on the topic of setting current and time delay trip points for boosters and electronic circuit breakers. It is located at: https:/WiringForDCC.com/track_2.htm#a56 or simply to to my website's site map and look under "Circuit Breakers". Allan Gartner WiringForDCC.com

All, Recently, one of our moderators received an email that claimed to be from me directly. I and my friends occasionally get similar emails. Whether it be me, this forum, or any of your friends, scammers are sending almost convincing emails claiming to be from someone you know. You need to be skeptical of just about every email you receive. Look at the heading. If the email address seems fishy, it probably is. As far as from me, I will only email you directly if I need to send you something that is not appropriate for everyone else on the forum. If I do this, it will probably be a day or two within a posting you made. I will not email you out of the blue. Sorry, this is the world we live in. Allan Gartner Wiring for DCC

Hello everyone First time poster, I've been lurking/learning about DCC as I don't have a layout - as yet. I keep hearing in this group and others about files being saved in "the file section", how can I access the file section, can someone provide a link please? You all are a great bunch of people helping the less DCC intelligent individuals like myself who have a lot of questions. Thank you in advance for any information you may provide. Regards to all and keep up the great information. Jon H

I assume this may be because of the "asymmetrical" nature of steamers with one set of pickups in the loco and the second in the tender. The 2rail O Scale Weaver 0-6-0 only fails at one boundary after entering and exiting all other boundaries successfully, When it fails it's not obvious that either PSXXAR or entered PSX shorts (LEDs remain in normal config) and the loco sound stops (it has a keep alive). A Weaver 4-6-2 and diesels do not fail at any boundary. An earlier topic suggested that one wheel might touch both sides of a gaped rail - I will relook at this. Any other suggestions? Background: - Figure 8 with PSXXAR at one end, PSXAR at the other with a PSX protected block in between. - Both PSXAR inputs connected to PSX input and NCE SB5 booster. - all boundaries double gapped with 3/4" stagger as recommended by PSX - turnouts are well beyond gaps - loco wheels and track all recently cleaned

I currently have 2 PSX and a PSX-AR chained together as per instructions with the input to the 2nd PSX chained to the input of the PSX-AR. The instructions for the PSXX-AR show the AR being chained to the output of a PSXX. What is the rationale for this change? Should I just chain the PSX-AR input to the PSXX-AR input or is a PSXX ( or? PSX) required in the circuit to protect the PSXX-AR?

Hi all, I tried to find a basic wiring diagram that shows the recommended relationship between the booster districts and breaker districts - on the w4dcc website and did not discover what I'm looking for - does it exist? If it does please point me to it. Even if it is not on the w4dcc website. What I'm looking for is a big picture "block diagram" that show how a DCC layout should be wired. If it doesn't exist anywhere on the web (highly unlikely) then I will create one. - Jim in the PNW

HI, Has anyone found a way to place a camera in front of a locomotive? Also can DCC power be picked up with metal wheels and converted to 5 volts DC for USB devices? Thanks Sent from AT&T Yahoo Mail on Android

My Digitrax UT4R has stopped working properly. This has happened before, then I send it and money to Digitrax and they fix it. Now, they say they're out of that business. Anybody else doing it? Thanks. -- Bill Mosteller Great Decals! www.greatdecals.com