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I’m installing a PSX-AR board for a reversing section on my layout. The reversing section is located between two different buss power districts (DCC). At the moment I’m only planning on using the auto-reverse feature of the board. Two questions come to mind: 1) I’m using a NCE breaker board between my NCE power supply and the track on each district. Should the PSX-AR be located between the NCE breaker and the track or between the power amp/supply and the breaker? I believe from what I’ve read here and elsewhere, power should be supplied between the breaker and track. 2) More important question I think is that my reversing section is located between two different power districtsx-think as a “Y” with two track ends powered by different busses. Does it matter which power district buss feeds the PSX-AR? I would appreciate any insight you might have regarding these questions. Thank you Don

Can I use commercial 1-to-1 connectors between Atlas signal boards? RJ45 and RJ12, etc. RicZ

Group, Does anyone have experience running resistor wheelsets on a DC powered layout? I know they are fine on DCC but I’m not sure of how they would work on DC layout. TIA. Lee

Hi, I put a dwg named LEDs in photos. The GREEN led is much brighter than the RED led. Can this circuit be modified to reduce the GREEN led intensity? Thaqnks

I have added the general information regarding the dimming LED thread earlier this week to my website. Specifically, I have added resistor color codes and ways to determine the resistor needed to dim an LED. I have also linked this to the section on purchasing a resistor substitution box that was already on my website. Links to these sections can be found in the What's New section of my website at: https://WiringForDCC.com/wirefordcc_toc.htm#a1 Allan Wiring for DCC

I want to convert this N scale DC ONLY car to run on DCC. The DCC voltage from my Power Cab is 12.4v. This makes the motor run at high speed as if it were 12VDC. I don't want to tear out the electronics and wire in a DCC decoder like numerous YouTube videos do. Can I add a diode (half wave) and maybe a resistor across motor input voltage to reduce the motor speed? If so, what would the DC voltage to the motor be? Any approach is welcomed.

Hi I m new to some of this . What iam trying to do is to dim leds down .I have tried several different types of resistors like 470, 680 , 750 and 1k ohms and can’t dim them . I used resistor calculators online and still haven’t gotten the hang of it at what point do they start to dim down what I have now is a color code of first line is brown black and yellow the last one is gold . What ohms would this be ? This dims it down to where I need to be. Sorry for making this a dumb question , I have never did any calculations for resistors. thanks

Scott H. Haycock <shhaycock@...> added the photo album Resistor Codes : A chart to read resistor values

Scott H. Haycock <shhaycock@...> added folder /Resistor Codes

rrmaven <dan.shirleylee@...> updated the photo album Passenger car lighting for DCC and DC power : 2 photos of a homemade AC-to-DC bridge rectifier assembly powering an LED strip, and one showing an inexpensive and ready-made assembly on eBay.

rrmaven <dan.shirleylee@...> added the photo album Passenger car lighting for DCC and DC power : Photos of ha homemade AC-to-DC bridge rectifier assembly powering an LED strip, and a PDF showing an inexpensive and ready-made assembly on eBay.

Greg- I am finally returned from my travels and can respond as per my note of Aug. 19. Since I made my comments, I saw a ready-made AC-to-DC converter on eBay that I think will work for you and costs $1.20 each plus $3.75 shipping. At that price, you could buy a handful and not have to do any soldering/assembly, and if they don't work the way you want, you've lost about $10. The assembly looks almost exactly like what I put together at more cost and time. I am going to post several items in the "Photos" section: (1) 2 pictures of my assembly and the assembly connected to a strip of LEDs for my my passenger cars, and (2) a PDF of the current eBay ad showing the assembly and its wiring diagram. You will have to add a resistor between the DC output and your LED(s) to reduce the 12 volt output to what is appropriate for your LEDs. Look through the various posts to size the resistor.

I'm trying to avoid extra "stuff" because of space reasons, so I'm looking at putting two LEDs in series. If I have two white LEDs* that operate on about 4V at 20 mA connected in series, using a 1 kOhm resistor at 12V, what rating does the resistor need to have? Can I subtract the required voltage of the LEDS like this? 12V - 4V -4V = 4V 4V / 1000 ohm=.004A .004A * 12V=.048W Do I need to keep it in like this? 12V / 1000 ohm=.012A .012A * 12V=.144W * https://led-switch.com/products/1-6mm-red-diffused-leds?variant=39789042270371 Puckdropper

To all users of LokSound 5 DCC decoders. I am an ESU decoder installer and I also do some programming. With all the decoders that I have installed in the last year, I connect TVS diodes in order to protect the decoder from network surges and fluctuations generated by the motor (Thanks Roy Davis, Protecting decoders from track shorts, published in MRHMAG. COM, April 2022). I systematically put into practice all the recommendations of ESU and Soundtraxx. I take many precautions to ensure the integrity of each decoder; I always validate the consumption of the motor using the Stall Motor test, I validate the installation of the loudspeakers and the resistances for each AUX output for the LEDs, I protect the ends of all the wires that are not connected before carrying out a download of a sound program (with the latest LokProgrammer available) and I carry out tests with the Decoder Tester before connecting to the locomotive. This year I have experienced several failures with the LokSound 5 DCC decoder, the 8-pin model NEM652 (58410 / 58420). Either the decoder burns out during initial programming, or on the first try, or even gives up the ghost after only a few weeks of use! Each time, the heat-shrink tubing melts opposite the AUX5 contact and it is no longer possible to read or reprogram the decoder. In other words, it is dead! My research on the web revealed that ESU has issues with microprocessor availability, similar to that which are experiencing the global car manufacturers. Therefore, manufacturers must use parts of various quality and which may cause problems. Bottom line if you have issues with an ESU decoder the problem is probably with the ESU decoder itself and not necessarily your connections. Keep your purchase receipts and feel free to return the blown decoder to ESU USA for warranty replacement. Of course, the shipment to ESU USA is at your expense and they don’t want to officially acknowledge a problem... Imagine the potential number of returns this could mean... Does this remind you at all of a recent episode of a faulty electrical cable of battery with Toyota electric vehicles?!

All, If you haven't heard, Soundtraxx came out with a new variant of the Blunami. It is an 8-function, drop-in intended mainly for HO diesels. It is the BLU-PNP8. I'm sure you can get creative and use it other places and scales as well. Also, Soundtraxx now has a Blunami app for Android users. Question to you: Do you like getting new product alerts like this one on this group? Chime in. I'll use #New Product to flag them. I don't have to be the only one posting new products. We can try this for a while and see if the group finds this beneficial. Thanks Allan Gartner

I run with an NCE Procab system. I have some old passenger cars with lights that work on my layout, but of course they flicker. Without going to the expense of putting a decoder in each passenger car, can I install a capacitor and diode in the circuit of each car to stop the flickering? If this would work, can you also advise what values I would need for these components? I could install a 'neverdie' or 'keep alive' in each car, but of course would still need a diode for polarity (I Think!). Thanks for your help! Greg Harter

To the Members of the w4dccqa The w4dccqa group does not allow photos or diagrams to be included in a text message because of the rare but possibly that malware can be hidden in the photo or the drawing. If a photo or drawing would be helpful in describing or solving a situation then the photo or file should first be uploaded to the group text and/or photo folders and then pointed to within the message text. Instructions on how to upload to the file folder and upload to the photo folder can be found here in files folder in the 01 Misc Information Folder. [email protected] | Files w4dccqa Management

Hi all, I'm not sure how to get this done correctly ... but I'll make a suggestion. Other methods/approaches are welcomed. The thing is that this list seems to be especially prone to "revisiting prior topics (aka threads)" and those recurring topics are stuff that are pretty much "the basics of wiring for DCC". The most recent example is yet another question about how to handle a reversing section. And those threads are not only repetitive but also often include poorly phrased/written wording that then drags out. **** My basic suggestion is that there should be some document(s) that describe these topics (I think they already exist in the FILES area) ... and we, the people trying to help the persons asking the questions should be referring them to those documents (first and always). THEN, if the person asking the question is still having trouble due to a nuance that he/she isn't getting ... we should help the person here in the group messages (threads). And, if a deficiency is discovered in the documents they should get updated (re-written?). **** There is another basic part of this that I do not have a suggestion for how to handle it. ===> Wouldn't it be nice if the people asking questions were to check the FILES and find their own answers ... most of the time? - Jim in the PNW ===> I am -not- criticizing the members for trying to be helpful. I'm saying that there is a better way than once again answering the question in a thread (in my opinion). P.S. I have my own list of those recurring topics. I'll give them to you now. Reversing sections. Twisting/not twisting bus wires. Bus and Feeder wire sizes. Best practices. DCC circuit breakers (not in the booster/command station). Wire routing. Accessory bus wiring. Lighting. Rail joiners -vs- feeders ... and how often to place feeders. Wiring for detection and/or signals. What would you add or delete from this list? P.P.S. Yes, I know that most of this already exists. So why don't we use them?

Greetings All. I have been a member of this group for many years and have found the information provided very helpful. I think I have made some contributions in the past. I now need a little help with a reverse loop I have created on my new layout. I have wired simple reverse loops previously but only in DC. My situation. I have a length of track leading into a revere loop but it doesn't join the incoming track directly when it exits the loop. It exits onto a track parallel to the incoming track. This is is fine but just outside of the loop I have a crossover that joins the inbound and outbound tracks. Not surprisingly I get a short if I try to go through this crossover. There are gaps in the crossover track but they are staggered. They are the gaps that isolate the frog of each switch. My question/s are do I use an auto reverser on the loop and, if so, do the gaps at the crossover need to be adjacent? Will this work? Or is there an alternate solution? Can I connect the auto reverser to the 2 parallel tracks leading into the reverse loop. I have seen this solution used to simplify certain situations. I am hoping somebody can provide a solution so that I don't have to go through a lot of experimentation. For you info, I use a Digitax command station with input via DCC Specialities PSX CB's. I have a couple of DCC Specialities Frog/AR's for the reverse loop. Thanks in advance for any suggestions you can provide...........................George.

I know this is an oldie, but has anyone ever installed a decoder in the engine of the Con-Cor Aerotrain? If so, how was it done? I know about the 'decoder car' and would like to avoid it if possible.