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Re: attaching feeder wires to bus
mike thurston
I used 8 postition barrier strips centrally located
near groups of feeder wires. bus wire comes to one side of strip which has 14 gauge wire wrapped from one post to the other all the way down on that side and next bus wire leading off either side which allows be to put up to 14 feeders of each one using lugs. I use one strip for each polairity and NO soldering at bus wires involved. Hasn't seemed to detract from the performance at all. But don't go beyond the 30' limit for main bus lines. Biggest hassle here is making sure you have the right feeder wire for the particular side of the bus. I color coded one feeder wire with red nail polish and hooked it up to red bus line. My bus lines are all 14 gauge wire...red and green. It's a tad more expensive but it's a lot easier to undo a screw if you make a mistake than trying to unsolder a bunch of wires looking for the right one. You can also buy terminal joiners for the barrier strips that do the same thing as wrapping all the screws on one side with wire but they cost almost as much as the barrier strip..safety wise i would think barrier strips would be the safest way to do it as you don't have bare hot wires where you can get zapped....just an idea...hope it helps....if you need more detail email me at zekda99@... mt --- Ken <kenkal@...> wrote: --------------------------------- Forgot to answer this part: The trick is to NOT put your face under the solder connection. Or legs. or arms. or fingers. or whatever. Just keep your self off to the side a little bit and your arms near parallel with the connection to be soldered so that if solder does drop, it falls to the floor. Ken --- In WiringForDCC@..., "Jerry Goodwin" <jerrygoodwin@y...> wrote: .> And how do you avoid dripping hot solder on yourface? SPONSORED LINKS Lionel model train European model trains Model railroads Ho scale model train Ho model trains G scale model train --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --------------------------------- __________________________________________________________ Find your next car at |
Re: attaching feeder wires to bus
Ken
Forgot to answer this part:
The trick is to NOT put your face under the solder connection. Or legs. or arms. or fingers. or whatever. Just keep your self off to the side a little bit and your arms near parallel with the connection to be soldered so that if solder does drop, it falls to the floor. Ken --- In WiringForDCC@..., "Jerry Goodwin" <jerrygoodwin@y...> wrote: .> And how do you avoid dripping hot solder on your face? |
Re: attaching feeder wires to bus
Ken
1. I use wire strippers to pull the bus wire insulation apart,wrap the
feeder wire tightly around the bus wire, and solder. 2. Don't us the old type wire strippers that require you to hold one wire with one hand and pull the insulation away with the wire strippers. Newer strippers that are really not costly at all -- $5 to 15 or so -- do a perfect job. Look for the wire strippers that allow basically one handed operation. You just put the stripper over the wire and squeeze. One side grips the insulation and hold, the other side cuts automatically to the size of the wire (doesn't even nick the wire) and pulls the insulation back about 1/2" to 1" or so. If you need more than that space just reposition and squeeze again. It's soooo simple to do this way. They work perfectly on twisted wires as well. These strippers are available at most hardware and supply stores like Menard's, Lowe's, etc. If you need more info let me know. Ken --- In WiringForDCC@..., "Jerry Goodwin" <jerrygoodwin@y...> wrote:
|
Re: attaching feeder wires to bus
JOHN
Hi
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I have used scotchlok blocks a form of insulation displcement connector. No soldering,no stripping just a pair of pliers. You can also get them with a spade receptical such that you can break the connection if you wish. These are available from express models. Have a look on their website....... t.html Regards.....john -----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of Jerry Goodwin Sent: 31 October 2005 07:28 To: WiringForDCC@... Subject: [WiringForDCC] attaching feeder wires to bus How do you connect the feeder wire to the bus? If you solder it, how do you strip the insulation from the bus in the middle of a stretch of wire without cutting the wire? And how do you avoid dripping hot solder on your face? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS a.. Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web. b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- |
Re: Schematic for booster.
wirefordcc
You may be thinking of the MiniBooster(c) by MiniDCC(c). Yes, you got
to it from my site through my Do-It-Yourself page. The URL for MiniDCC is: Scroll to the bottom of their page and click on MiniBooster(c) circuit. CVP Products is still selling a simple booster kit. It can be found at: |
Schematic for booster.
There was a schematic for a real simple booster. It may not have had missing DCC detection, over voltage os some other features, but it was real simple. I may have seen it while browsing this site a month or so ago.
Now I can't find it. I think there might have been a parts list with it too, but not sure. The thread had someones remark to the efect " That's it? Thats all there is?" I've search and searched. I guess I should have bookmarked it, but nope! Now I need to build one. Anyone remember seeing it, or perhaps another real simple booster? B0B |
Re: Boosters and tail lights
Jan Frelin
I'm not sure you can set the trip time on a Lenz system, but lightbulbs
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work just fine with the Lenz system we have at our club. (Set 90) At 15:53 2005-10-29 +0000, wirefordcc wrote:
I don't know what the trip time is on your Lenz system. Perhaps the |
Re: decoder equipped locomotive will no respond to the emergancy stop key
mhn_416
--- In WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc" <wire4dcc_admin@c...>
wrote: do a power off instead.thanks allan i will try it peter |
Re: decoder equipped locomotive will no respond to the emergancy stop key
wirefordcc
Peter,
Check the manual. I am pretty sure that you have to hold the emergency stop key for about 6 seconds. I never considered this very useful as my train has surely collided with another train or wrecked by then! If I need to do an emergency stop on my Digitrax system I do a power off instead. Allan |
Re: Boosters and tail lights
JOHN
Dear Allan
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Thanks for the info I will check and see....john -----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of wirefordcc Sent: 29 October 2005 16:54 To: WiringForDCC@... Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Boosters and tail lights I don't know what the trip time is on your Lenz system. Perhaps the manual states it somewhere. Or you could contact them and ask. The trip time needs to be about 1/2 second. My Digitrax Chief gives me a choice of 1/8 or 1/2 second. On 1/8 second, the Chief trips before the light bulb has a chance to light up. At a 1/2 second, the light lights up about 95% of the time before the Chief trips. If your Lenz manual doesn't state the trip time, all you need to do is buy a bulb and try. In the United States, an 1156 tail light bulb sells for about $1.59 for two of them. If your Lenz trips too fast, check your manual and see if the trip time is adjustable. I know the Digitrax Chief isn't the only one that is adjustable. Allan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS a.. Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web. b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- |
Re: Boosters and tail lights
wirefordcc
I don't know what the trip time is on your Lenz system. Perhaps the
manual states it somewhere. Or you could contact them and ask. The trip time needs to be about 1/2 second. My Digitrax Chief gives me a choice of 1/8 or 1/2 second. On 1/8 second, the Chief trips before the light bulb has a chance to light up. At a 1/2 second, the light lights up about 95% of the time before the Chief trips. If your Lenz manual doesn't state the trip time, all you need to do is buy a bulb and try. In the United States, an 1156 tail light bulb sells for about $1.59 for two of them. If your Lenz trips too fast, check your manual and see if the trip time is adjustable. I know the Digitrax Chief isn't the only one that is adjustable. Allan |
decoder equipped locomotive will no respond to the emergancy stop key
mhn_416
i have just installed a mrc sound decoder in one of my locomotives all
cv's run fine, sound is good however when i try to stop the locomotive using the emergancy stop key it does not respond.using the throttle to reduce the speed to zero works fine . any suggesstion in correcting this problem would be helpful. my system is digitrax super empire builder with a dp150 command station and dt400 throttle. other decoders whether digitrax or mrc installed in other engines work just fine. thank peter |
recessed electrical switches
Glen Frix
I've seen electrical switches recessed into the facia of layouts. They
are recessed by the installation of a PVC fitting. I'm having trouble locating the fitting (i.e. the local plumbing supply doesn't have them and hasn't seem them). It's shaped like a "U" with a lip around the outside edge of the "U." It's a 1-1/2" or 2" fitting. The closed end of the fitting is flat (i.e. it's not a cap that you'd use to close the end of a PVC pipe - these are rounded). The switch is mounted on the closed end of the U. The lip gives an easy means of mounting the fitting to the facia. Anybody out there seen this & can identify the name of the part? Thanks. |
Re: DCC track wiring.
Vollrath, Don
Worst case - You want to run more than one train at a time and they may overlap at the main tracks of the double crossover.
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Need 2 A-R units. Wire the whole crossover section to be fixed track polarity right from the booster. Use insulated rail joiners at all 8 rails. Wire the left and right halves of the rest of the layout as two separate reversing sections, each with its own Auto-Reverser. If you throw all 4 throwbars of the Walthers double crossover to be the same position at the same time there will be no short circuits caused by steel wheels. Fairly easy to do w/ 4 Tortoise machines all wired to the same control switch. Can also be done by moving the insulating rail gaps and A-R track sections away from the double crossover, out toward the actual end loops. Still requires 2 A-R track sections, but you COULD get by with using only 1 A-R unit if you can guarantee that only 1 train at a time will be rolling through the reversing tracks at any given moment. The advantage is that much of the double or single mainline track can be constant polarity, and you may get by with purchasing only 1 A-R unit. For trouble free operation make sure the reversing track sections you do end up with are always longer than the train. DonV -----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of beaucoupbo Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 1:12 PM To: WiringForDCC@... Subject: [WiringForDCC] DCC track wiring. Stumped: I have built a DCCsystem and I cannot figure out how to wire a complicated dogbone. My two track mainline enters a double crossover that becomes a loop coming back into the double crossover. I am using Lenz equipment throughout. My crossover and track in the loop is Shinohara purchased through Walthers. Help on this would be greatly appreciated Doug Edwards |
DCC track wiring.
beaucoupbo
Stumped:
I have built a DCCsystem and I cannot figure out how to wire a complicated dogbone. My two track mainline enters a double crossover that becomes a loop coming back into the double crossover. I am using Lenz equipment throughout. My crossover and track in the loop is Shinohara purchased through Walthers. Help on this would be greatly appreciated Doug Edwards |
Re: I would like your opinion
Gene A. Dobbins Jr.
Don, Thanks for the reply and the suggestions. I will definately check out the NCE Powercab.
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Gene ----- Original Message -----
From: Vollrath, Don To: WiringForDCC@... Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 9:58 AM Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] I would like your opinion Gene, You got it. Just remove the wires from the DC power pack and connect them to the DCC system of your choice. Take a good look at the NCE PowerCab. It is much easier to operate than Digitrax. Perfect for a layout such as yours, with few limits on future expansion. DonV -----Original Message----- From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of genead1 Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 8:56 PM To: WiringForDCC@... Subject: [WiringForDCC] I would like your opinion Hi, I currently have an 11' X 5' DC layout with one passing type siding which is non insulated with two Atlas remote turnout switches and and no yard so there are no electical blocks. This layout has one crossing track and several power feeds at various locations around the track. My question is: can I use, say, a starter DCC system by just unhooking the bus wires from my current DC powerpack and hooking the wires up to the DCC system (Booster I presume )? I would just like to control the speed of two or three trains on this one track. I also guess I would have to use a programming track to program the decoder in the loco's. By the way I do know that the loco's on this track would need to have decoders on board. Currently I am considering the Digitrax Zypher as the DCC system. Thanks for any info. Gene ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS a.. Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web. b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
Re: I would like your opinion
Vollrath, Don
Gene,
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You got it. Just remove the wires from the DC power pack and connect them to the DCC system of your choice. Take a good look at the NCE PowerCab. It is much easier to operate than Digitrax. Perfect for a layout such as yours, with few limits on future expansion. DonV -----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of genead1 Sent: Wednesday, October 26, 2005 8:56 PM To: WiringForDCC@... Subject: [WiringForDCC] I would like your opinion Hi, I currently have an 11' X 5' DC layout with one passing type siding which is non insulated with two Atlas remote turnout switches and and no yard so there are no electical blocks. This layout has one crossing track and several power feeds at various locations around the track. My question is: can I use, say, a starter DCC system by just unhooking the bus wires from my current DC powerpack and hooking the wires up to the DCC system (Booster I presume )? I would just like to control the speed of two or three trains on this one track. I also guess I would have to use a programming track to program the decoder in the loco's. By the way I do know that the loco's on this track would need to have decoders on board. Currently I am considering the Digitrax Zypher as the DCC system. Thanks for any info. Gene |
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