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Re: do I need new bus wires
David,
There is one thing I assumed. Can the Lenz Compact be connected as a booster? Can you plug the command bus from the Lenz 100 into the Compact? If you don't know this, you'll have to check on the Lenz site. If they can't be interconnected, then you will essentially have two independent railroads. When a loco drives across the gap, it'll stop, but there will be no short. You'll have to pick up a throttle connected to the other controller, and drive away.... |
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Re: do I need new bus wires
Brian Williams
David,
It isn't strictly necessary to get an Accurate voltage reading (within a few percent), although that is certainly possible. If the rails are out of polarity, any AC meter will read something, maybe not steadily, but it'll bounce around near, say, 10v (I'm making that number up), While if the rails are in polarity, the reading may bounce around near .1V. I hope you get the idea. A simple test fixture would be a 16v (or 20 or 24) light bulb connected to two aligator clips. Attach one clip to each side of the rail and turn on the juice. If the light lights, switch the wires off the booster (The branch line booster), and try again. Of course, you turned the power off before you disconnected the feeder bus, right? If the light still lights up, then I need to turn in my Electrical Engineering Degree (Which will upset my mother no end!). DCC Specialites.com makes and Tony's and Walthers sells, is a thing call the RRAmpMeter, which can measure True RMS voltage, A thing you need for DCC. It's not necessary for this project, but if the boosters are too far out of amplitude with each other, you may want to set your booster's output voltage. It is unclear to me whether Motor Starting voltage is in actual volts, or a relative range. For a given system, the two are indistingushable(sp?) from each other. However, if MY system is set at 12.2v and YOURs is set at 18.7v, will our Locos run significantly differently? Does it matter? But I digress. Another thing that will tell you if the rails are in polarity or not, is to run a loco over the gap. If its stops, you have a problem. :-) |
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Re: do I need new bus wires
Brian Williams
If I understand your question correctly, Yes, the branch should have
bus wires seperate from the rest of the layout; feeding the output of two boosters into each other is bad. Just be sure there is no polarity difference at the rail gap. If your volt meter doesn't read zero volts (AC) across the gap (of each rail) then you have a problem, switch the wires coming off the boost, that should fix it. Since you have a seperate set of bus wires, you need corresponding feeders for the branch. |
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do I need new bus wires
DAVE STEVENS
I am using a lenz 100 on a 18*8 layout,main line & branch.I have a
spare lenz Compact+transformer I would like to use the compact to power my branch line,which has 1 rail connection with the main line all ready fitted with insulated rail joiners. Do I need to fit new bus wires and feeds for the branch,and will trains pass branch to main line on the same throttle. Any information would be appreciated. |
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Bachmann Tender Connector
Brian Williams
Does anyone happen to know a part number for the connector that mates
to the 2 and 4 pin plugs on a Bachmann Spectrum Tender? I have some older Rivarossi Y6bs (not DCC ready) and I want to run them with Bachmann tenders (which are). I don't expect a bachmann number, since they don't even acknowledge the thing exists on the locomotive diagrams; but a molex (or other OEM) number would rule. |
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Train Navigation
a_allemby
Hi, I've seen that Fleishmann has introduced Train Navigation, but
according to the literature it can only be used with their Twin Centre (6802). Is there any truth in this? I'm currently using the Lenz (LVZ100) Command Station and would like to use a Train Navigation System in conjunction with My Lenz set-up. Can anyone offer advice? Thanks Adrian |
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Wiring Walthers/Shin 3-Way Switch for DCC
Dave
To all,
I am trying to wire a new DCC friendly Walthers/Shin 3-WAY turnout, and need some help! I am trying to figure out how to connect the 3 seperate frogs so they are properly powered depending on how the throw rails are aligned. I have not purchased any type of switch machine yet, as I do not know what type would be best for this situation. I was able to solder leads onto the 3 frogs to drop down under the table, as well as solder jumpers from the closure rails to throw rails. But how do I make sure the frogs will be powered correctly?? Thanks, DAVE |
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Re: The correct solder type for Feeder Wire and Rail joints
wirefordcc
It sounds like you have a good plan.
Whatever liquid flux you buy, don't buy acid flux. That will eat your track over time. I can definitely recommend the liquid flux by H&N mentioned in my website. I use the "gel" for soldering feeders to rail by using a toothpick to get a drop. I use a q-tip and the "liquid" for soldering the feeders to the buses. The stuff works great! |
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Re: The correct solder type for Feeder Wire and Rail joints
sjanis0249
Thank you for the speedy response, I will go out an buy some solid
core solder and liquid flux, it was taking too much time to heat the rails to make the rosin core flow into the joint ( even with a 230/150 Watt Crsaftsman Soldering gun. Meleting was not an issue though, I was using alligator clips as heat sinks to keep the ties from melting, However the clips were also probably adding to the length of time to heat, since they were absorbing some of the heat. Regarding the Joiners, I am only solder rail joiners on the curves (36 radius) and using one feeder wire on each radius and then about every 6 to ten feet solder feeders on straight track sections. I leave a small gap (1/32 inch) here and there on the straights to adjust for humidity (Basement is damp in summer, although I run a dehumidifier) and dry in the winter (to adjust for my wood L girder bench work). WiringForDCC@..., "wirefordcc" <wire4dcc_admin@c...> wrote: of rail and solder the joiners. You only need to do one or theother. buckle as your room temperature changes. Modelers do like to solder thewith 4% silver and/or no lead takes more heat to solder than solderable to take the additional heat a little easier. But for HO track, youWith rosin core, you have to apply heat to melt the rosin. With liquidis laready liquid. So with liquid flux, you run a slightly lesserrisk of melting ties. |
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Re: The correct solder type for Feeder Wire and Rail joints
wirefordcc
First a few words on soldering joiners:
Electrically, you do not need to solder both feeders to every piece of rail and solder the joiners. You only need to do one or the other. Mechanically, if you solder every rail joiner, your track may buckle as your room temperature changes. Modelers do like to solder the joiners of flex track to keep from getting a kink in the joint. Regarding your use of solder: Solder that is 96% tin and 4% silver and has a rosin core will definitely work. However, for easiest solderability, I suggest you use solder that contains 37-40% lead. I have found that solder with 4% silver and/or no lead takes more heat to solder than solder containing only .4% or 0% silver and 37-40% lead. I like the high (4%) silver content lead for soldering G-scale track - which is able to take the additional heat a little easier. But for HO track, you are likely to melt ties. While rosin core solder on HO track definitely works, I suggest you use a solid solder that has no rosin core and use liquid flux. With rosin core, you have to apply heat to melt the rosin. With liquid flux, you don't need to apply this additional heat since the flux is laready liquid. So with liquid flux, you run a slightly lesser risk of melting ties. For more on soldering, see my webpage on soldering: Allan |
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The correct solder type for Feeder Wire and Rail joints
sjanis0249
I am soldering feeder wire and also soldering rail joints on code 100
flex track. I have some electrical repair solder I just purchased and it says it is lead free, 96% tin and 4% silver, with rosin flux core. Will this work? I see reference to Rosin Core solder that is 60% tin and 40% lead in some railroad books. Is this better or is my mix better, or does it matter at all? |
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Re: Installing sound decoders in P2K GP7 & 9s
sjanis0249
--- In WiringForDCC@..., "brian1961go" <brian1961go@y...>
wrote: I had the same issues, Had 3 GP7's with Torpedo tubes installes and roof mount antenna's (PRR Geeps) and istalling sound proved so time consuming and so damaging to the exiting frames and engines that I bought a new Proto 2000 GP9 and found that the shells from both my old GP7's and GP9's fit perfectly on the new factory proto GP9 frames. All I had to do was take out the long hood number boards and saw the back part off so the light bulb would fit. Trainworld had them for $159...All in all it was easier to buy the new units...The time and effort to get the old units sound ready was not worth the money or damage |
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Re: Prodigy & CV's
wirefordcc
CVs are not complicated. Here is an explanation of them:
Many of the sound equiped locomotives come with a basic instruction sheet that covers the more common CVs for that locomotive. In the instruction sheet is usually a web address where you can download the complete manual. The complete manual usually describes every CV and what the various values control. Many basic DCC systems are not capable of accessing all the CVs in a locomotive. Refer to your manual to see what CVs can be changed. |
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how to obtain an NEM 652 socket
wmconquerant
I'm new to DCC but have successfully hard-wired two locos.
Given that decoders are certain to become obsolete as better and better become available, I think it would be a good idea to hard-wire the NEM 652 socket into my non-DCC-ready locos so that I can change the decoder easily in the future. So I've got two questions: 1 Is this a good or a bad idea? 2 If good, where can I buy the sockets? Have searched web and forums for hours but found nothing. Thanks in advance. To see how modellers try to help each other is truly humbling |
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Re: DCC Installation Bachmann F(G)n3 Shay
wirefordcc
Bill,
I don't know which variation of the Shay you have. In any event, I only have experience with the first generation. The first generation required surgery in the trucks to isolate the pickups from the motor. I don't recall that Bachmann claimed that the first generation was DCC ready. The first generation also had trucks that fell apart. Bachmann came out with a retrofit that solved some of the problems, but it was a piece of junk to me. I think about the third generation, Bachmann came out with new trucks last year. I installed them about 6 months ago. So far, so good. Knock on wood. These trucks did have the pickups isolated from motor. Bachmann's definition of DCC ready and what really is DCC ready are two VERY different things. If you want a few laughs, read my installation notes on the DCC ready Consolidation. The colors in Bachmann definitley don't match NMRA standards. Neither does LGB, which doesn't claim to be DCC compatiable. LGB has their own system - which I understand is based on an outdated Lenz system. I try to retain as much of the manufacturers hardware, but sometimes it has to go. |
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Re: Existing Untwisted + Booster location
KDK
Thanks for your informative reply Don. Ken
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
----- Original Message -----
From: Vollrath, Don To: WiringForDCC@... Sent: Thursday, October 06, 2005 9:33 AM Subject: RE: [WiringForDCC] Re: Existing Untwisted + Booster location Like Allan's preaching about DCC fiendly turnouts, my advice leans in the direction of providing solutions that work in each and every case. Anecdotal evidence may show that in you're case, it can work without taking any special measures. However...It DOES depend on what boosters (brand & model) you use, AND the type of wiring, AND your expectations of "trouble free" operation. Energy efficient boosters (Like NCE) have fast DCC switching elements that tend to accentuate signal 'ringing' on the DCC distribution bus. Long DCC bus lines, the significant inductance of 'open wiring' and lack of R/C terminators magnify those effects. Reasonable buss lengths made from twisted and terminated wire help to suppress them. Boosters with slower switching voltage transitions (like digitraxx) don't aggravate the ringing phenomenon so much. Using them may get you by with more relaxed wiring conditions. But they do create more heat and have much larger heat sink requirements. Another symptom of wiring inductance shows up as 'slow loco' spots on the layout, particularly with locos or consists that draw more current than others. DCC track power is AC. Track voltage droop with current is caused by a combination of the electrical resistance (R) of the DCC bus system and track wiring (DC ohms as measured by an ohmmeter - a property of the wire gage and length) AND the reactance (AC impedance or 'resistance' at DCC frequencies - XsubL = 2*pi*f*L) caused by inductance (L) of the wiring current path, AND the amount of amperes drawn by the loco(s) at that remote location. Using a larger gage of wire will reduce the R part, but does nothing to reduce wiring reactance. Inductance is affected by distance between the wires and overall length. Twisting the DCC buss wires together reduces inductance to the minimum for a given length. Your expectations and observations of acceptability may also vary. If you don't operate with locos drawing significant amounts of current you may not notice a loco slow-down or the fact that the DCC system has trouble getting commands to the loco decoder in certain locations of the layout if you're trains are just running around and around....Caused in fact by the effects mentioned above. As other have said...You're mileage may vary. DonV -----Original Message----- From: WiringForDCC@... [mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On Behalf Of Ken Sent: Wednesday, October 05, 2005 11:52 PM To: WiringForDCC@... Subject: [WiringForDCC] Re: Existing Untwisted + Booster location Thanks for your explanation, Don. BTW, I've seen almost as many comments saying group all your boosters together as I have to put the boosters in the center of their district. Feeling a litle frustrated as the new kid on the block, I called NCE. They suggested centralizing all the electronics in one location. This is very confusing to me. Especially since I have a friend who has a perfectly running, well over 1,000' mainline DCC layout and yet uses 14 ga. wire, doesn't twist it, only has 3 districts, and centalizes all his boosters in one place. He seems to violate every rule and yet has the perfect layout. Like most people, I tend to beieve people who know more than I do. But it's a real problem when many people on both sides give me directly conflicting information and yet. fom what little I know each side makes perfect sense in what they say and believe. Arggggghhhh! Yahoo! Groups Links ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS a.. Visit your group "WiringForDCC" on the web. b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: WiringForDCC-unsubscribe@... c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
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