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I went through this thought process about a year ago.

I purchased a DS54, CVP's products, Lenz or Atlas, Team digiatal.

I like the CVP product you need the edge connector and some time
soldering. The DS 54 is overkill i use it for crossing signals and i
really like the lenz/atlas product since it is very simple.

I am using JMRI to contol the decoders. Tony's has a very good review
of all the stationary decoders. $8-10 per turnout is what the cost
is. I like using the computer and Macros to set up routes, especially
when running my yard. 1 button throws 8 switches.

Just because you have DCC in your locomotives, doesn't mean you need
to use electronics to control your turnouts. The old fashioned way -
using a center-off momentary toggle switch - is still a good way to
control turnouts.

I'm using DS-54s to control my mainline turnouts. All my other
turnouts are controlled the old fashioned way.

Allan

I am about to start building a medium sized ho layout, after an
absence of about 40 years. I am starting from "scratch". I would
greatly appreciate some recommendations, especially with respect to
dcc operating systems, Lenz vs Digitrax vs ?, type of turnouts to use,
etc.

thanks.

I would like to add some LEDs to my coaches about 7 or 8 Leds. I want
to control them from a Loco decoder. What is the best way to wire
these up. Is it possible to do this. Is there any drawing showning me
how to do this.

Hi everyone,

I am tempted to use a PC to control the switches on my layout.

Now, an easy way would be to buy a bunch of DS54's and to go broke
over that.
From what I can tell doing some research is, that it'll cost $10 and
up per turnout to control them with a PC.
Way too costly, since I'm planning on having 32 turnouts on my layout.

Is there a cheaper way to do this? I don't necessarily need DCC
control, since I'm not planning on using my throttle to control the
turnouts. A cheap PC I/O interface maybe?

I looked into the following stationary decoders:
Digitrax DS54
CML DAC10
CVP AD4H
Team Digital SMD8

Here's my current setup:
Peco PL10 twin-coil motors
Digitrax Zephir
Loco Buffer II
Spare PC

If any of you know of a solution that would cost less than $10 per
turnout, I'd be very interested.

Thanks!

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Regards
Kate Leo

Bob,

A 3-way turnout is planned for my next website update. That will
probably happen over the Christmas holiday break.

Allan

Doug,

Thanks for the clarification. I did find Allan's recommendation for the
517-905 IDC's on the web site. The Mouser catalog confused me because
it states: 22-18 tap wire only. I will order some today.

James

3M ScotchLok 905 connectors accomodate 18-14 AWG on the "run" and 22-
18 AWG on the "tap" connection. They are single blade connectors.
I dont believe there is a dual blade (similar to the ScotchLok 567,
12-10 run, 18-14 tap) for your smaller wire.


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ndler/output_html

Doug



b --- In WiringForDCC@..., "John Churchward"
<jcebay@n...> wrote:

Hi
I do not have the catalogue but I have just started wiring up

and laying

using just those gauges and I have used a 3m scotchlok which has a

1/4"

blade recepticle built in. That means if you have a problem you

can just

unclip that feeder. It does mean that you have to buy a bag of

blades as

well but you can also put more than one feeder into the blade if

you want

to.........works well for me

Regards

John Churchward
-----Original Message-----
From: WiringForDCC@...

[mailto:WiringForDCC@...]On

Behalf Of jmscnw
Sent: 01 December 2005 00:10
To: WiringForDCC@...
Subject: [WiringForDCC] IDC Connectors


I am using 14 gauge wire for bus and 20 gauge wire for feeders.
I am not sure which type will work well for DCC.
I have a Mouser catalog which sells several types.









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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Would you consider sending me a diagram the depicts the proper wiring
for a three way switch (turnout) for DCC compatibility?

Direct E'Mail is bob.young@...

John,

Do you remember the 3M stock number ?

Thanks,
James

Hi
I do not have the catalogue but I have just started wiring up

and laying

using just those gauges and I have used a 3m scotchlok which has a

1/4"

blade recepticle built in. That means if you have a problem you can

just

unclip that feeder. It does mean that you have to buy a bag of

blades as

well but you can also put more than one feeder into the blade if

you want

to.........works well for me

Regards

John Churchward

Hi
I do not have the catalogue but I have just started wiring up and laying
using just those gauges and I have used a 3m scotchlok which has a 1/4"
blade recepticle built in. That means if you have a problem you can just
unclip that feeder. It does mean that you have to buy a bag of blades as
well but you can also put more than one feeder into the blade if you want
to.........works well for me

Regards

John Churchward

I am using 14 gauge wire for bus and 20 gauge wire for feeders.
I am not sure which type will work well for DCC.
I have a Mouser catalog which sells several types.

Well...a combination of lucky & smart.
1. With electro-frog you recognized the need to provide insulated rail joiners at the diverging frog rails and permanently wired power for other track extensions. Good move.
2. But with a brand new switch you don't yet see a need to have the point rails and metal frog powered through extra rail feeders and a separate external switch. So far you have good connections to power those rails. Just wait until the points get dirty and internal connections start to corrode.
3. Without derailments you have not yet seen what happens when you get a wheel to opposite polarity point rail short while the point rail is being powered through the tiny contact area of the opposite point from a 5 or 8 amp booster. As soon as you burn the points good once or twice, re-read #2.

4. With insul-frog you don't need the insulated track joiners at diverging frog rails as those rails don't switch polarity. The frog itself is insulated. But now you have a known dead spot in the track. Usually works OK with all-wheel pick-up on diesels.
5. You can still have something similar to problem #3 above as connections to the inner turnout rails are bonded together be metal to metal contacts in the plastic molds rather than good solid soldered connections. Eventually you will wish you had added more rail feeder drops.

You don't HAVE TO do anything to these switches to run trains with DCC (except recognize the need for #1 above). Your luck and annoyance level may vary. Making them more DCC Friendly simply reduces the probable occurance of occasional annoying problems that takes the fun out of running trains when they keep stalling at track switches.

DonV

hi
I am fairly new as well and have probably just read the same articles as
yourself and have done the same tests as yourself. The only difference is
that I am using code 75. I have gone for power routing of electofrog, to me
this seems to be the catch all except maybe thats its a little more work and
perhaps a little more expensive in that you have to provide a switch. Having
said that you have no dead spots even if you are running small shunting
locos at slow speed and no shorting problems with larger out of tolerence
locos. I have just started laying and so far think I have made the right
choice although I am sure there are many who will dissagree

Best of luck

John Churchward

I am new to modelling and trying out wiring of points prior to
building layout.
I have read a lot about wiring of Peco points, so tonight I set up
three straights with a point to see what happens.
I did it with both Elctrofrog and Insulfrog.
With Electro I used insulated joiners on the frog rails and no other
change and all three straights have power feeds and everything ran
with no problems.
I then changed to insulfrog using the same straights and metal joiners
on teh frog instead of insulated and again no problem.
Is this because I am not using a point switch for switching the frog
power or am I just lucky that I am not getting shorts.
The electrofrog is the same as the code 55 and old turnouts in the
wiring peco turnout section of web site.
Can someone please explain why I was lucky.
Thanks
Nigel

Ray,

I see that another update to my webpage is in order. I used peak
and average in the following ways: The peak circuit will cause a
meter to read whatever voltage the circuit is attached to. The
average circuit will hold it's value briefly and it won't see
peaks. Unfortunately to the electronics savy, peak and average
reading capability also refers to measuring AC waveforms. Shame on
me for not making that clear in my webpage. I'll fix that at the
next update.

Which one should you build? Either one. When it comes to DCC, you
should read the same thing. I built the "averaging" one because
when I'm squatted down measuring my garden RR, I'm only momentarily
making contact and I didn't want a reading that jumped around. I
wanted to capture the reading briefly.

On the downside of the averaging one, because it does hold it's
reading, you need to let several seconds go by before you take
another reading.

Banana plugs is the name of the typical plug that is on the end of
the test leads for digital voltmeters and other test equipment. The
sides of the plugs LOOSELY resemble banana peels. Use your
imagination!

Alligator clips is the name of the typical clip on test leads for
clipping the test lead to something that you want to measure.

Allan

Nothing special required. Same as straight or curved mainline track. In the case of a helix, run the DCC bus up one of the helix risers and connect to the track at each level. Be sure to solder all rail joiners except for one pair on the side opposite of the DCC bus to yield good electrical connections, but yet leave a little room for rail movement for thermal expansion, etc. You may want to add insulated rail joiners at top and bottom of the helix to facilitate train current detector or reversing loop wiring at a later date.
DonV

Mike...If your DCC bus runs are only 10 ft long in either direction you DON'T ndeed to do anything more. Just hook 'em up to the track and enjoy.
DonV

Allan,

On your web site "Wiring for DCC" in Track Wiring, Part1, you have a
circuit diagram under the topic "Measuring DCC Track Voltage and
Current" Which shows leads to the track through a diode, capicitor and
resistor to a DC voltmeter.

Under this is two tables, one for Peak and one for Average.

Just to be clear, are you suggesting making two different instruments;
one for measuring peak volts and one to measure "average" volts using
essentially the same schematic?

I'm also afraid I'm not clear on the Alligator Clips vs Banana clips
immediately under this. Can you illuminate me?

Ray