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Hello Steve, *Thanks for your response. I'll add my answers embedded within your text below, in bold, even if they repeat what's in the original post, just to have everything handy in one

Thanks, Don. I've added more detail in my response to Steve. Wouter [email protected]> wrote:

Ok thank you so much Kurt

My eyesight is not good enough to study complex track diagrams on a computer monitor.? I am jealous that I do not have the room in my home to have such complex railroads. Reversing controllers are

Ok thank you very much. In my yard I have 3 turnouts each isolated with plastic joiners, do I remove them and place the auto reverser wires on that section. I have included some more pictures of my

Kurt, Your oval with crossover is covered on my website at: https://www.wiringfordcc.com/track_2.htm#c4 You will need to scroll down a bit to the oval.? You will need one automatic reversing section

I have NCE and PECO electrofrogs. ?I have isolated my layout in to sections which is powered through a separate circuit breaker. ?All of of PECO turnouts have the Tam Valley frog juicers. ?Each

I believe Wouter mentioned at the beginning that this is for G gauge, so higher voltage and current are needed than for smaller scales. It's fair for him to look for a booster that can take a typical

Wooter , correcting some of Alan’s comments shares: “All I currently have, and am testing with, is a Power Cab and USB interface. At about 15V, that is clearly not enough, nor has its cab bus

Hi Robert, You are doing it right. Many meters today are auto-ranging: They will figure out the range they need to be on, on their own. Less expensive meters you still have to select the range. If

Jerry, An analog amp meter will not read as a load. An old analog volt meter will probably have a high enough internal resistance not to trip a block detector, as Wouter mentioned.? My original

Hi Jerry, Any half-decent Voltmeter should have an internal resistance that is many orders of magnitude larger than the resistance needed to trip a detector. No worries there. And when measuring

I should have written about an ammeter gauge needing to be in line on one side or another. Sorry about that. I should also have given a more detailed explanation of what I would like to do. We have

Thank you Allan for the good advice. Although I am by far no electronic person, but when doing anything on my layout that requires a power reading I use an old standby Sears multi-meter.But not sure

Hi Jerry, To anyone who wants to try this: 1.? Do NOT hook up any amp meter across any kind of power source whether that be a power supply, battery, booster output or across your track.? If you

Allan, greetings from the temporarily frozen High Plains. 19 degrees, freezing fog and light snow. Crackling fire and glass of wine evening! Anyway, if I hooked up a vintage voltmeter or ammeter

Hi Allan, All I currently have, and am testing with, is a Power Cab and USB interface. At about 15V, that is clearly not enough, nor has its cab bus enough addresses for the required AIUs. So that

Hi Wouter, As I learned recently, the Power Pro, when used with an external booster/command station, has to be used with the SB5. If you need more than 5A, you need to add a DB5. The Pro Cab system

Hello all, For two separate G-Scale layouts (one inside and one in the garden) that will never run simultaneously, I am looking for a 10A booster supplying at least 20V but preferably 22V that will

I get my old” gauges” at ham fests. They have a zillion of meters. Just google “hamfests”. They are all over the country. Some are small and some are quite large. I’m going to one in