Lawrence,
At 14 gauge except for short segments at the rails or reversers, your wiring is certainly heavy enough unless your runs are extremely long. But, on further research, I've concluded this is a simple issue.
You don't need an AR at all!
All you need is to have the radial connecting to the green 11 in the picture wired with its polarity (+ and -) reversed from what is shown, and reversed from the 38 radial just above it and all the other radials in your picture. (As drawn, they match, and in this case, that is wrong!). So, its plus should be on its lower or outside rail. And then, notice if you follow the loop to the other radial, there is no polarity conflict, and no reversing needed.
Why? Because 11 is connected to a radial on the opposite side of the turntable pit, where the polarity or phase of the rails is reversed. If you had an oval or other continuous track, it could include the turntable and radials directly across from each other, and trains could run through it with no switching, no reversing, and no problems.
Now, noting the plus and minus of the rails of one of those radials, then imagine rotating it around the perimeter of the turntable pit to the opposite side. Note the plus and minus don't line up. That's why the turntable radials are in A and B groups, and why the loop in your picture doesn't need a reverser: The pit wiring makes the polarity or phasing correct, as long as one end of that loop goes to an "A" radial and the other end goes to a "B" radial, as your picture shows.
Then, if you wire power correctly to the turntable and all the other radials, no reversing is needed. The only switching will be of the track on the turntable bridge, and that will be done by the turntable ring rail. As shown, all your radials, except the 11, should be wired the same as the 37 and 38 radials. The radial wired to 11 should be wired the opposite way, being the only used radial on the other side of the turntable and in the opposite group.
