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If one or more of the self test of the tinySA fails AND you did NOT buy from one of the safe sellers (see wiki) you can do the following: If the Attenuator test (test 12 in the latest FW) fails follow this guide in the wiki: https://tinysa.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Main.CheckTheAttenuator If the serial number at the back of your tinySA starts with "AD" you have a clone. Complain and get a refund. If the text next to the high input connector is "HICH" you have a clone. Complain and get a refund. For other failures make a photo of the front and back of the tinySA and a photo or screen capture of the failing self test such that it is possible to read the text on the screen and post a message with the pictures. ------------------------------------------ For more info on the tinySA go to https://tinysa.org/wiki/

Hi all, I’m new to this group, a physicist by background but also new to using a spectrum analyser. Before I go and actually buy the Aursinc V0.3.1 model, I wanted to ask about how I might go about making measurements relevant to my research so I can be sure this is the best and most affordable approach. To summarise, I am investigating resonance in coils driven at radio frequencies and high voltages and looking at the standing waves that result from certain coil configurations and wire lengths. To make it easier to show what I’m doing, I attach some graphics showing the circuit (without an output load), a typical coil configuration and an example of standing waves that show on a scope using a low-powered setup of 18V to the primary coil. In particular, the queries I have are: Can I detect what frequencies are emanating from the coils by using the supplied aerial placed within say 50cm of the coils? What sort of attenuator would I need to cope with the high voltages and power in the secondary in particular? Are there any others known about how are doing this type of measurements? Will the tinySA-App work with Windows 10? Thank you in advance for any help. Julian Perry Kerrowenergetics.org.uk

The device was purchased on 2023.12.10 from the official AliExpress store "Zeenko Store". I used the device a couple of times during the entire period and was satisfied with the device. In 2024, I updated the software and everything worked correctly. In other words, the device was in its box for six months and now when I started the device, something happened to the hardware, because almost all the circuits are out of order. I also did a "Clear Config" and removed the battery from the device for a few hours, but that didn't fix the situation. Additionally, I noticed: * The device will no longer save changes to the time and date. * Windows computer no longer connects to device * "PRESET" - "LOAD FROM SD" - "ERROR NO CARD" (32GB SD card is actually fine) Has anyone else experienced this error and can it still be repaired ? I'm attaching some pictures of the device's condition. Sincerely, g.

Based on the "fault finding" tab at tinysa.org, my SA ultra's input RF switch chip U22 (AS179-92LF) has failed. This chip is so tiny it seems there is not a soldering iron or tweezer small enough to replace it. It's like a microscope-dependent repair! Has anyone had success with this repair, or is it just smarter to buy a whole new SA Ultra?

I have a large home on a hill in a fairly isolated peri-urban area, which I wouldn't expect to be subject to massive interference. However, I also have >500 electronic devices, either plugged-in, on battery or hardwired. Many of them wireless devices, and are experiencing intermittent connectivity problems, on all kinds of frequencies. I know that after living 15 years in this haunted house, I am long overdue for the purchase of an EMI detector. I am trying to figure out which to get, and how to use it. The tinySA Ultra seems like it might be up to the task, but I'm still not sure how I would proceed with the investigation. Here are some of the devices/bands I experience problems on. - Various frequencies - smartphones cell networks have never worked properly indoors with any operator, despite the coverage map. They work in some outdoor locations but not others. This is probably on the operators just lying through their teeth with their coverage maps, and not interference. But our current phones dance alternately between no signal, GSM, 2G, 4G, LTE, 5G. It's essentially impossible to make any cell calls and not have them drop. We have to use Wifi calling. - 2.4 GHz / 5 GHz Wifi devices have lots of problems, especially 2.4 GHz IoT devices. The 9 APs are Ubiquiti Unifi. Two of them are wired, 7 meshed. Many clients don't connect for a long time or at all, a bunch connect to very distant APs, some have elevated packet loss, and some have very high ping times - I have seen as high as 10 seconds. There are now about 300 total Wifi 2.4 GHz clients with the recent addition of 220 Philips Wiz bulb in the last few months. I don't currently have any 6 GHz APs (Wifi 6e/7). I have a couple 6e capable clients (one phone, one laptop). There are only 9 5 GHz clients in the house - two phones, two laptops, two Raspberry Pi 3B+ used as controllers for my 2 Carrier Infinity HVAC, and 3 Enphase solar gateways. - 1.9 GHz - Panasonic DECT 6.0. This generally works pretty well, but the handsets sometimes don't connect to the base when pressing "Talk", and needs to be put into OFF mode and back ON . Likely a device bug, but I have only seen it happen with distant handsets, and not the one in the room closest to the base, so I can't rule out interference completely. - 923 MHz : Yolink devices sometimes lose connectivity, especially distant ones. That's the case intermittently for the water leak sensor at the bottom of one of my water heaters, for instance. And the door and temperature sensor in my garage freezer. My other 12 Yolink devices work very well. But I'm not adding any more until they have a local hub. - 912 - 920 MHz : my 30 Z-Wave LR devices have many problems. Many nodes go "dead" frequently in Home Assistant/Z-Wave JS UI and randomly become unusable. Some are distant, but others not so far. I have switched every single LR device to non-LR so the devices don't lose signal altogether. The traditional Z-Wave mesh seems to work much better (or not as bad, see below). This could be device bugs due to LR implementations still being relatively recent. - 908 MHz : Z-Wave non-LR devices often have very long reaction time as well. Again, I have seen 10 seconds response time, just like for Wifi devices. Unfortunately, there are also lots of outright transmission failures, especially when communicating with several devices consecutively, such to turn off all light switches in the house. Many switches don't turn off, and require a second attempt. Currently, there is a total of about 70 Z-Wave devices. - 433 MHz : Simplisafe v3 . I have one distant door sensor and keypad that randomly drop out of range of the base station. All 3 are stationary, and I don't quite understand why this happens. I could relocate the keypad, but can't relocate the door sensor. There are not many options for me to relocate the base that won't cause other devices to go out of range. I'm looking for some kind of wall or ceiling mount for the base station in order to improve this, but there is nothing available off the shelf. There are about 20 Simplisafe devices. I wond

I was exploring the VHF High public service bands (150 - 162 MHz) on my tinySA spectrum analyzer using the waterfall display. I noticed a very strong, very narrow, very clean unmodulated FM carrier at exactly 154MHz. I noticed the strength varied as I moved around the house but I could not locate a source on the end of the house with the strongest signal. So I swapped to a small rubber ducky antenna on the tinySA and headed outside. The emission was clearly coming from a neighbor's house. Neighbor is a great guy so I knocked and we went looking for the source and suspected an older Windows PC desktop. He shut it down and the emission went away. Likely a failed filtering capacitor or choke in the switching power supply. Don't know if he'll bother to fix or replace it, but I had fun hunting it down. I didn't think of it at the time but I may have been seeing a harmonic and probably should have checked 38.5 MHz using the tinySA MEASURE/HARMONIC tool as that is a more likely frequency from a failing switching power supply. Maybe next time he boots the PC... Peter

Something went wrong with my TinySA Ultra after I updated the firmware earlier this evening. I get this screen when I turn the unit on and nothing else: