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Re: LCR recommendations?


 

In light of links I just posted with devices/ items most likely of Chinese origin, I always tell everyone to be careful of anything obtained from there.?? Although none of the aforementioned devices have caused any issues presently, I did have a situation with so-called "30 amp" lamp dimmers last fall. I was trying to use one to control a simple load not using more than 5 amps at 12 VDC.? Upon first dimmer's arrival and implementation, I noticed that it ran quite cool to the touch and no initial issues.? However, right where I am sitting now and the dimmer about 3 feet away, one day I noticed it started smoking and I ran to it as it burst into flame.? I decided to try a replacement.? The initial replacement ran far warmer than the original, even though the same type, so I placed it close to me as it ran.? Within minutes, it started smoking too.? Then the final dimmer, this time placed on a completely separate system drawing fewer amps.? Within a week, it too failed although not in grand fashion like the other two.? It was obvious to me that there was something wrong with the circuit from the start.? Since these were all purchased from the same seller and within the return period, I demanded refunds for all.? At first the seller resisted and I finally got eBay involved and it was resolved.? The seller wanted them back after I sent him images of the burned up ones.? I said no problem if he paid for shipping, which he didn't want to do. After the refund instituted by Ebay, I tossed them all in the trash.? Be wary of any Chinese electronic devices, always test and double test items upon arrival.

Just some food for thought.? On the other hand, I ordered and am still using one of those "30 dB" HF preamp boards for like $10. It's doing a good job at HF if/ when I use it, which isn't that often really.? I originally got it to help boost frequency counter sensitivity, which it does well.

Jon

On 7/16/21 11:55 AM, JonI via groups.io wrote:
I thought I'd also mention picking up one of these some time back when I was in a bind, did not have a lot of extra funds, and needed something besides solder wicking and/or solder plungers, neither of which I have had very much luck with over the years:

tinyurl.com/btz9rtrc

The motivation behind this was a cracked slug when I was attempting to retune a bandpass filter in a rig I've been trying to tune up and align.? Only way to remove the slug was to desolder the bandpass filter and I knew wicking/ plunger wasn't going to do it very well.? Well, the above device took about 6 weeks to arrive, I tapped into my 220 VAC lines, and the device ensured success.? Keep in mind that it's quite crude compared to much more expensive desolderers and may take several tries (orientation and heating have to be exact), but it works.? My advice would be to keep it activated as solder is removed from a joint, then release over a trash can/ towel, etc otherwise solder flies right back onto the board if you release it right away.? And you don't want it to remain activated too long as I believe it uses a electromagnetic coil which could get hot quickly.? I try to use a duty cycle.

Not a bad little device for the price, however.

Jon








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