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Thanks for the well-written details, Geert. And, since we're talking FT-897s, the stock Yaesu FNB-78 NiMH 4.5 AH batteries are still available from Gigaparts at $144.95 for the pair. 73, Kent K9ZTV

The AT897 and the AT897plus work in a different way. The AT897 needs three connections: RF antenna to the 897, the CAT connector (which is only used to get power for the tuner from the radio), and an

I would decrease power on FT8 to about 70-80 watts unless you have a more substantial 9:1 unun. Check SWR frequently. That way you might preserve the radio finals longer too. Have fun with FT8! 73 de

Thanks Ron. Having it connected to a 706MK2G spoiled me! ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Mike KK2DOG? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?Watertown, NY??? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? FN24

Although it is good to have the LDG tuner work from a rig with a tune command, but the LDG tuners can operate in automatic where when they see RF and SWR above 1.5:1 they automatically tune.? So only

Does anyone know if these two are compatible and if so, what interface cable do I need?

From the AT-897 Plus manual: "The 8-pin CAT interface connector is Kycon Connector part number KMDAX-8P, available from http://www.mouser.com/ as Mouser part number 806-KMDAX-8P. Pinning for this

I used two different cables, and as I think I noted, the YT-100 works perfectly with the 897, and the AT-897 works perfectly with the FT-857. The AT-397 just will not work with the FT-897. Cables are

One issue with LDG tuners and Yaesu rigs is on some of the tuners the control cable switches the tip and inter ring connections.? They cross at the connector.? tip of one goes to inter ring of the

Dennis ... If MENU 19 in the FT-897D is set to 4800 bps, and MENU 20 is set to CAT (not TUNER), then the problem probably lies with the cable. Are you using the original DIN-8 cable supplied by LDG

Yaesu FT-710 working with a LDG 200 ProII Do at your own risk, works with my setup. Not ideal, but its a work around until LDG release a interface cable. LDG Y-ACC control cable. The BLACK jack plug

Hi great news, Thanks for the update Thanks Dave

I forgot some history that might be confusing readers.? I found a bend in the RG-8X that was heating on the lower bands, replaced the coax and improved the cable routing.? The problem no longer

I have done some more investigating.? The problem only occurs on 10 meters,? The model I constructed for the antenna on Expert MININEC shows that the impedance presented to the tuner should be

I've been buying my "un" boxes at the hardware store. 4"x4"x2" boxes, and you can fit a 240 size ferrite in them easily. I also use one of those stepped drill bits from harbor freight to drill the

FT200-2 and Teflon coated 14 or 16 ga wire will solve his problem. Putting vent holes in the box will release the heat. They are easily found on EBay or Amazon. Here is a reference page:

Larry I agree. I used aluminum boxes for my projects. At the 100 watt level I always made KW versions of the transformers. This discussion got me to dig out my old Jerry Sevick “Transmission Line

Putting all of this in a hermetically sealed plastic box isn't helping either... Try a metal one so it can get rid of the heat. Glue some heatsinks to it or whatever it takes. There are better boxes

Just as an aside, I have a Palomar Engineers 9:1 setup with an inverted L. Five 16' ground radials, up 25' and the rest horizontal. I'm constantly amazed at how well it works. I push 1 KW into it. It

The core ferrite material is useless – it has a temperature at which its magnetic permeability changes permanently. You can read about this on the Fair Rite website in a core datasheet. Cheers Colin