I just order new cables from Icom, they were less than a ?1 each, I now have stock for the next IC7000 that comes my way
KR
Andrew
Get
Oops, I should have written 0.05 inch pitch.
Well, my attempt to repair that cable only made it worse.? I glued the strips down, scraped off the extra glue, reassembled, and the radio wouldn't even turn on.? Verified 3V at PWRK so the 14V was getting through.? Took another look at the flat cables and found that they still had some glue residue.? While scraping that off, the cable came out of the socket on the PA board down below.? Glue removal caused conductor removal, so I tried scraping off that white stuff and shortening the cable, having noted that the cable is probably about 1 cm longer than it needs to be.? I learned of a few techniques that didn't work and now the cable is too short to fit anyway.? Time to search it up.? It turns out that this stuff is called "flat flexible cable" and is available in various standard pitches and lengths.? This one and the one next to it each have 28 conductors, are 58 mm long, and conductor pitch is 0.5 mm.? It turns out to be available at Tayda, Aliexpress, Amazon, and Newark, but not Digikey.? I ordered some 10-cm 60-conductor pieces on AE.? Cutting it down to 28 conductors should be easy.? If I don't come across a reliable technique for shortening the cable, I'll stuff the extra 4 cm in somewhere or curl it up above the connector.? That should be about 3 weeks from now.? Thanks, Bob and Andrew, for your comments!
Cheers,
Halden
|
Oops, I should have written 0.05 inch pitch.
Well, my attempt to repair that cable only made it worse.? I glued the strips down, scraped off the extra glue, reassembled, and the radio wouldn't even turn on.? Verified 3V at PWRK so the 14V was getting through.? Took another look at the flat cables and found that they still had some glue residue.? While scraping that off, the cable came out of the socket on the PA board down below.? Glue removal caused conductor removal, so I tried scraping off that white stuff and shortening the cable, having noted that the cable is probably about 1 cm longer than it needs to be.? I learned of a few techniques that didn't work and now the cable is too short to fit anyway.? Time to search it up.? It turns out that this stuff is called "flat flexible cable" and is available in various standard pitches and lengths.? This one and the one next to it each have 28 conductors, are 58 mm long, and conductor pitch is 0.5 mm.? It turns out to be available at Tayda, Aliexpress, Amazon, and Newark, but not Digikey.? I ordered some 10-cm 60-conductor pieces on AE.? Cutting it down to 28 conductors should be easy.? If I don't come across a reliable technique for shortening the cable, I'll stuff the extra 4 cm in somewhere or curl it up above the connector.? That should be about 3 weeks from now.? Thanks, Bob and Andrew, for your comments!
Cheers,
Halden
|
Hi switch on select VHF and measure the voltsge on the gate, if the bias is set low there should be low volts on the gate. Check the spec of the transistor, and check where it is, most RF Fet's turn on between 3 and 4 bolts.
KR
Andrew
Get
I ordered some from ICOM for a friend less than a year ago. As you can see, you need a spare.
Bob W4JFA?
When I was reinstalling the MAIN board, I noticed that some of the conductors had lifted from the ribbon cables.? I squeezed them down, flattened them out and got them into the sockets anyway.? The TX adjustment did not go well (see thread about interpreting adjustment instructions).? Today I pulled them out of J2004 and J2005 and found that two conductors may have contacted each other.? That's very consistent with Andrew's comment that I have a ribbon cable fault.?
One one cable, some of the conductors have delaminated only in the first 2 mm from the end of the cable.? Is there enough contact area in the connector mechanism that I could just cut the first mm of the cable and its stiffener off so that the delaminated conductor doesn't fold back or sideways and cause a problem and then plug it in?
Elsewhere I've found advice to superglue the conductors back down.? So I'll try that on the ones that have a longer delamination region.?
If this fails, are these cables something I would have to order from Icom?? Or are there standard conductor pitches on such cables, in which case I could order some material from DK or Mouser, cut the length and width I need, scrape the paint of the conductors at the end, and possibly glue a stiffener to the end, too?
This is probably the most modern radio I've tried to repair.? I don't yet know much about these flexible ribbon cables.? I'm used to the ones made from individual, insulated, stranded wire with 0.5 inch pitch.
Halden VE7UTS
|
I ordered some from ICOM for a friend less than a year ago. As you can see, you need a spare. Bob W4JFA?
When I was reinstalling the MAIN board, I noticed that some of the conductors had lifted from the ribbon cables.? I squeezed them down, flattened them out and got them into the sockets anyway.? The TX adjustment did not go well (see thread about interpreting adjustment instructions).? Today I pulled them out of J2004 and J2005 and found that two conductors may have contacted each other.? That's very consistent with Andrew's comment that I have a ribbon cable fault.?
One one cable, some of the conductors have delaminated only in the first 2 mm from the end of the cable.? Is there enough contact area in the connector mechanism that I could just cut the first mm of the cable and its stiffener off so that the delaminated conductor doesn't fold back or sideways and cause a problem and then plug it in?
Elsewhere I've found advice to superglue the conductors back down.? So I'll try that on the ones that have a longer delamination region.?
If this fails, are these cables something I would have to order from Icom?? Or are there standard conductor pitches on such cables, in which case I could order some material from DK or Mouser, cut the length and width I need, scrape the paint of the conductors at the end, and possibly glue a stiffener to the end, too?
This is probably the most modern radio I've tried to repair.? I don't yet know much about these flexible ribbon cables.? I'm used to the ones made from individual, insulated, stranded wire with 0.5 inch pitch.
Halden VE7UTS
|
When I was reinstalling the MAIN board, I noticed that some of the conductors had lifted from the ribbon cables.? I squeezed them down, flattened them out and got them into the sockets anyway.? The TX adjustment did not go well (see thread about interpreting adjustment instructions).? Today I pulled them out of J2004 and J2005 and found that two conductors may have contacted each other.? That's very consistent with Andrew's comment that I have a ribbon cable fault.?
One one cable, some of the conductors have delaminated only in the first 2 mm from the end of the cable.? Is there enough contact area in the connector mechanism that I could just cut the first mm of the cable and its stiffener off so that the delaminated conductor doesn't fold back or sideways and cause a problem and then plug it in?
Elsewhere I've found advice to superglue the conductors back down.? So I'll try that on the ones that have a longer delamination region.?
If this fails, are these cables something I would have to order from Icom?? Or are there standard conductor pitches on such cables, in which case I could order some material from DK or Mouser, cut the length and width I need, scrape the paint of the conductors at the end, and possibly glue a stiffener to the end, too?
This is probably the most modern radio I've tried to repair.? I don't yet know much about these flexible ribbon cables.? I'm used to the ones made from individual, insulated, stranded wire with 0.5 inch pitch.
Halden VE7UTS
|
Re: Interpreting transmitter adjustment instructions
Hi you have a ribbon cable fault which is putting DC on the gate of the VHF transistor, this needs to be fixed first.
KR
Andrew
Get
Thanks for the confirmation, Andrew.
In the first setting, "TX Driver Idle", the radio drew 1.57A at setting 00, which gradually increased with higher settings until it went from 1.80 A to 2.67A between setting 72 and 73.? Turning the knob CCW brought it down slowly to 2.55 at setting 60.? But when I re-enter the test at setting 60, or if I turn it down to 00 and back up to 60 again, the radio draws 1.78 A.? Is this how it's supposed to work?? If not, what component of the driver circuit is likely to have failed, causing this hysteresis?
The next two settings seemed to work okay.? The setpoints were in the vicinity of the original setpoints.
The third one, "Final Idle (144M)", drew 9.9A with a setting of 00, falling to 8.7A after about 10 seconds.? Turning the knob was able to get it up to 9.7A, but I thought there might be a malfunction, so I turned it back down to 00.? The 4th one, "Final Idle (430M)", drew 1.57 to 1.60 A regardless of the setting.? I left it at 00 too.
I didn't connect the microphone exactly as the service manual says.? Instead, I used the regular microphone in a quiet room.? When I pressed the microphone's PTT switch; the radio went into TX mode and stayed in TX mode until I pressed F4 (SET) and/or the up arrow (F1) to go back to the top of the test menu.
I'm working on these adjustments because the radio gives low output on all HF and 50M bands.? The amount of low output varies; I started out with 29W on 40m and when I went back to it after checking all the other bands, it was down to 14W.? Most bands' power output was in the 5-10W range.? I haven't checked power output on 2m or 0.7m; I don't have a good wattmeter for VHF and UHF.
Does the high current on 2m and low current on 0.7m mean the final transistors for those bands have failed?
Cheers,
Halden VE7UTS
|
Re: Interpreting transmitter adjustment instructions
Thanks for the confirmation, Andrew.
In the first setting, "TX Driver Idle", the radio drew 1.57A at setting 00, which gradually increased with higher settings until it went from 1.80 A to 2.67A between setting 72 and 73.? Turning the knob CCW brought it down slowly to 2.55 at setting 60.? But when I re-enter the test at setting 60, or if I turn it down to 00 and back up to 60 again, the radio draws 1.78 A.? Is this how it's supposed to work?? If not, what component of the driver circuit is likely to have failed, causing this hysteresis?
The next two settings seemed to work okay.? The setpoints were in the vicinity of the original setpoints.
The third one, "Final Idle (144M)", drew 9.9A with a setting of 00, falling to 8.7A after about 10 seconds.? Turning the knob was able to get it up to 9.7A, but I thought there might be a malfunction, so I turned it back down to 00.? The 4th one, "Final Idle (430M)", drew 1.57 to 1.60 A regardless of the setting.? I left it at 00 too.
I didn't connect the microphone exactly as the service manual says.? Instead, I used the regular microphone in a quiet room.? When I pressed the microphone's PTT switch; the radio went into TX mode and stayed in TX mode until I pressed F4 (SET) and/or the up arrow (F1) to go back to the top of the test menu.
I'm working on these adjustments because the radio gives low output on all HF and 50M bands.? The amount of low output varies; I started out with 29W on 40m and when I went back to it after checking all the other bands, it was down to 14W.? Most bands' power output was in the 5-10W range.? I haven't checked power output on 2m or 0.7m; I don't have a good wattmeter for VHF and UHF.
Does the high current on 2m and low current on 0.7m mean the final transistors for those bands have failed?
Cheers,
Halden VE7UTS
|
Re: Interpreting transmitter adjustment instructions
Hi the way to look at this is this: ? - Connect an 1-5 amp meter (DVM) in series with the rig, or use a power supply that shows current digitally.
- Set all the bias controls to zero
- Switch on and put into to TX (SSB)
- Note the current the rig draws.
- You can then adjust the driver ideal current for an additional 1A
- You can then adjust the driver VHF Final current for an additional 2A
- You can then adjust the driver UHF Final current for an additional 2.5A
? When you switch form HF to VHF to UHF, the bias current falls to zero on the non-use band ? MOSFET unlike bi-polar are nearer to class A (AB2) than Class AB1, or B (which is just conducting) ? KR ? Andrew G8UUG ? ? 
?
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Show quoted text
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of HF via groups.io
Sent: 11 April 2025 06:17
To: [email protected]
Subject: [ic7000] Interpreting transmitter adjustment instructions? Page 18 (marked 4-3) of the service manual explains adjustment of the final idle current.? It mentions connecting an ammeter that monitors the power supply current during the test and power meters to both antenna jacks.? Then it has this text: Rotate [DIAL] to set adjustment value to
1 A value from the driving current of "00"
value. Then push [F-4 (SET )]. But there is no instructions for connecting an ammeter to the driver stage to measure or adjust its current.? Does "driving current" here actually mean the power supply current?? If yes, does this mean that one is supposed to record the power supply current when the adjustment value is at zero, then increase the adjustment setting until the power supply current is 1.0A more than it was at the zero setting?
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Interpreting transmitter adjustment instructions
Page 18 (marked 4-3) of the service manual explains adjustment of the final idle current.? It mentions connecting an ammeter that monitors the power supply current during the test and power meters to both antenna jacks.? Then it has this text:
?
Rotate [DIAL] to set adjustment value to
1 A value from the driving current of "00"
value. Then push [F-4 (SET )].
?
But there is no instructions for connecting an ammeter to the driver stage to measure or adjust its current.? Does "driving current" here actually mean the power supply current?? If yes, does this mean that one is supposed to record the power supply current when the adjustment value is at zero, then increase the adjustment setting until the power supply current is 1.0A more than it was at the zero setting?
?
Cheers,
Halden VE7UTS
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Re: FI1501 on MAIN board: M3565M or TSB6221D/TSB6322C
This filter had different bandwidths for the different analogue TV systems around the world, Which have all creased transmitting.
So do not pursue any further.
KR
Andrew
Get
I'm trying to bring my new (to me) IC-7000 back to life.? It seems that the previous owner had connected the CIVE line to some voltage source other than ground.? Both ferrite beads between the connector and the logic board had ruptured.? For the time being, I bypassed them with wire.? I plan to go back in and install the proper beads if I can get the radio to work otherwise.
The MAIN PCB layout differs a bit from the one in the service manual:? One of the ferrite beads is between the REMOTE and VIDEO connector instead of between the REMOTE and RTTY connectors.
As I organized the various clips and connectors during PCB re-installation, I noticed that FL1501 is rectangular and black, not a metal can as shown in the service manual and other inside views I've found on the internet.? The part number is M3565M, for which I was able to find a datasheet on the internet.? It's a TV filter that separates out the video from the audio signals.? The service manual's parts list says the part should be
WFSTSB6321D [Others] or WFSTSB6221D [USA].
The block diagram calls it
TSB6221D except [UK] or TSB6322C [UK].
The schematic calls it
TSB6321D [Others]? or TSB6221D [USA]
which agrees with the parts list other than the "WFS" prefix.
I haven't been able to find a datasheet for any of these on the internet.
Is this a factory change?? Or a modification by the previous owner?? Does it matter if I don't use the radio to receive video transmissions?
Thanks!
Halden VE7UTS
?
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FI1501 on MAIN board: M3565M or TSB6221D/TSB6322C
I'm trying to bring my new (to me) IC-7000 back to life.? It seems that the previous owner had connected the CIVE line to some voltage source other than ground.? Both ferrite beads between the connector and the logic board had ruptured.? For the time being, I bypassed them with wire.? I plan to go back in and install the proper beads if I can get the radio to work otherwise.
The MAIN PCB layout differs a bit from the one in the service manual:? One of the ferrite beads is between the REMOTE and VIDEO connector instead of between the REMOTE and RTTY connectors.
As I organized the various clips and connectors during PCB re-installation, I noticed that FL1501 is rectangular and black, not a metal can as shown in the service manual and other inside views I've found on the internet.? The part number is M3565M, for which I was able to find a datasheet on the internet.? It's a TV filter that separates out the video from the audio signals.? The service manual's parts list says the part should be
WFSTSB6321D [Others] or WFSTSB6221D [USA].
The block diagram calls it
TSB6221D except [UK] or TSB6322C [UK].
The schematic calls it
TSB6321D [Others]? or TSB6221D [USA]
which agrees with the parts list other than the "WFS" prefix.
I haven't been able to find a datasheet for any of these on the internet.
Is this a factory change?? Or a modification by the previous owner?? Does it matter if I don't use the radio to receive video transmissions?
Thanks!
Halden VE7UTS
?
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Re: IC-7000 different Power at different band
Hi Dave,
Thanks for reply. Dummy load is ok (I use the same one for my SSPA testing, and also 7300 shows ok). I have done some more measurements, specifically on J101, Driver IN and Driver OUT (attached). I have also found a reference in the group regarding voltage level of a working IC-7000 (also attached for reference.)
The power out is not consistent, sometime changes a bit.
Thanks, Fazlay S21RC
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Re: IC-7000 different Power at different band
Silly but have you tested the dummy load is it still 50ohm on all bands being used on,
Dave 2E0DMB
Hello all,
Greetings. This is my first post in this group. Last time when I fixed my IC-7000 I took help from the IC-7000 Yahoo group ;) back in 2009.
After almost 12 years I brought this radio out of the storage for some VHF/UHF qso. Now I found there is no power at 70cm, and HF power varies band to band.
Initial check found the UHF PA gone, bias was dropping too low. Replaced the RD60HUF1, set the driver and PA bias. Getting only around 15-20watt. 2m the PA looks ok but getting around 15W.
I have cleaned all the connectors, replaced all the flex ribbons. still no luck. The output in HF band fluctuates randomly.
Driver board no burn, put back with heat paste (old version - no resistor at gate).
I have checked all related post in this group. The BIAS of pre-driver Q101 and Q102 both ok (around 2.x V, no broken trace). Took some measurement with a cheap USB scope:
Attached is the schematic where I measured the data, and also the data table.
Can you please advise what might be the problem, or what should I check?
Thanks in advance, Fazlay S21RC
|
IC-7000 different Power at different band
Hello all,
Greetings. This is my first post in this group. Last time when I fixed my IC-7000 I took help from the IC-7000 Yahoo group ;) back in 2009.
After almost 12 years I brought this radio out of the storage for some VHF/UHF qso. Now I found there is no power at 70cm, and HF power varies band to band.
Initial check found the UHF PA gone, bias was dropping too low. Replaced the RD60HUF1, set the driver and PA bias. Getting only around 15-20watt. 2m the PA looks ok but getting around 15W.
I have cleaned all the connectors, replaced all the flex ribbons. still no luck. The output in HF band fluctuates randomly.
Driver board no burn, put back with heat paste (old version - no resistor at gate).
I have checked all related post in this group. The BIAS of pre-driver Q101 and Q102 both ok (around 2.x V, no broken trace). Took some measurement with a cheap USB scope:
Attached is the schematic where I measured the data, and also the data table.
Can you please advise what might be the problem, or what should I check?
Thanks in advance, Fazlay S21RC
|
Re: Service Menu IC-7000 Tune Power for a Screwdriver/controller
The rocker switches are what I started with. To change bands one needs to stop the vehicle or risk a violent/fiery death. The thing is, it works MOST of the time, until it doesn't, usually on 80/40. But the primary question is still, why can I not adjust the tune power in the hidden service menu?
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Re: Service Menu IC-7000 Tune Power for a Screwdriver/controller
I was never happy with any auto-tuners I has thrown money at. I found them to be sensitive to RF no matter what I did. The fact that they told you to lower tuning power is a proof yo what I found.
Then, I got two momentary rocker switches and put them in a small box. I have been tuning my screwdriver antenna manually using the SWR meter in IC7000 since then and never looked back.
ismail KT6LN
Hello
?
I am trying to finish up my mobile HF installation. Still having some issues, but I've grounded and bonded the radio, antenna, etc. very well (maybe however, not well enough). I've also installed lots of good quality ferrites.?
After talking to the manufacturer of the screwdriver controller, he suggested I try reducing the tune power. The unit is a Tune-Matic EZ-Tune (Icom).
?
So, I inserted a shorted 1/8" TS male plug into the CI-V jack and turned the radio on with two of the front buttons pressed. I'm in the service menu.
There is an item under the TX submenu where you can adjust the tune power (AM) when hitting the remote AT button on front. The current setting is "36".
However, I cannot change this value by rotating the VFO knob per the service manual.
?
Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Philip Neidlinger
KA4KOE
|
Service Menu IC-7000 Tune Power for a Screwdriver/controller
Hello
?
I am trying to finish up my mobile HF installation. Still having some issues, but I've grounded and bonded the radio, antenna, etc. very well (maybe however, not well enough). I've also installed lots of good quality ferrites.?
After talking to the manufacturer of the screwdriver controller, he suggested I try reducing the tune power. The unit is a Tune-Matic EZ-Tune (Icom).
?
So, I inserted a shorted 1/8" TS male plug into the CI-V jack and turned the radio on with two of the front buttons pressed. I'm in the service menu.
There is an item under the TX submenu where you can adjust the tune power (AM) when hitting the remote AT button on front. The current setting is "36".
However, I cannot change this value by rotating the VFO knob per the service manual.
?
Any suggestions?
?
Thanks
?
Philip Neidlinger
KA4KOE
|
I predict a short
life for power transistors...
? ?
Best regards,
Ludovic - F5PBG
Le 29/03/2025 à 22:40, Edward Luers via groups.io a écrit?:
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Show quoted text
AROUND 70 TO 80W.
73, Ed KE6SU
Ed, out of curiosity, what power level do you use on FT8
with your 7000.?
73, Larry W7DGP
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Ed, out of curiosity, what power level do you use on FT8 with your 7000.?
73, Larry W7DGP
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Andrew Lenton
Bob
Philip Neidlinger
Ludovic Ludo
Edward Luers