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I don?t think the posters question was about the politics/pricing of owning
an amp, it was, as seen below. As odd as it sounds, people want what they
want, even if it does not make perfect sense.


New member today.

Anyone running a linear amp with the 7000?

Would like to run it up to 250 watts - not finding much on the internet
specific to myissue.

Brian Mackey
KC1MAC/AG
Hams don't let hams get stuck on 2 meter repeaters!

From: BT Yahoo!?2013 <robert.farey@...>
Reply-To: <ic7000@...>
Date: Friday, January 10, 2014 at 9:14 AM
To: <ic7000@...>
Subject: Re: [IC-7000] Powering up the 7000






Hi Brian
the difference is about 2 s points so why bother. there are some amplifiers
out there which can be adapted like the furuno marine hf power amplifier.
having accqired one it seems an like awful idea to to use it for the small
difference it could make.
costing some 2500 dollars us. Not that i paid that for it but it does make
me think it needs to be used for it's intended purpose. Best
regards robert G6LLP










From: brian mackey <brian.mackey@...>
To: ic7000@...
Sent: Friday, 10 January 2014, 12:15
Subject: Re: [IC-7000] Powering up the 7000





Yes I use the ameritron 811hd

Brian Mackey
KC1MAC/AG
Hams don't let hams get stuck on 2 meter repeaters!

From: <esmorrison1@...>
Reply-To: <ic7000@...>
Date: Thursday, January 9, 2014 at 8:02 PM
To: <ic7000@...>
Subject: [IC-7000] Powering up the 7000

New member today.

Anyone running a linear amp with the 7000?

Would like to run it up to 250 watts - not finding much on the internet
specific to myissue.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Jim & All:

It really doesn't have to be that expensive. Assuming there's going to be protectors for all the lines anyway, the only other things that are needed are a few ground rods and some wire for the ground field and the Single Point Ground panel. That can be as simple as some copper flashing available at your local roofing supply mounted on a piece of wood. Other than that, it's all things you're going to have anyway.

These articles appear to be pretty good. They do show the Single Point Ground concept, which is the best things to bring away from reading these. What they don't seem to talk about is limiting energy transfer on the cables from the tower to the entrance. This is something that's not generally employed in commercial installations (for various reasons), but I think can be a big help for home ham installs.

Chuck - N8DNX

Great stuff thank you

Brian Mackey
KC1MAC/AG
Hams don't let hams get stuck on 2 meter repeaters!

From: J Chaloupka <boltsnutspins@...>
Reply-To: <ic7000@...>
Date: Friday, January 10, 2014 at 9:19 AM
To: "ic7000@..." <ic7000@...>
Subject: Re: [IC-7000] Lightning Protection References






There is no easy answer, much reading and work are involved for a proper
ground, to say nothing of the $$$ cost. Don't forget the maxim, "Pay me now
or pay me later, but your going to pay", applies here.
Here are some links for your reading:

ction%20P1.pdf


ction%20P2.pdf


ction%20P3.pdf

de, wd8qbq, JIM







From: brian mackey <brian.mackey@...>
To: ic7000@...
Sent: Friday, January 10, 2014 7:28 AM
Subject: Re: [IC-7000] Lightning Protection References







Should the radials be buried as well or just spread out in a direction
away from the house

Brian Mackey
KC1MAC/AG
Hams don't let hams get stuck on 2 meter repeaters!

From: <w3ahl@...>
Reply-To: <ic7000@...>
Date: Thursday, January 9, 2014 at 9:07 PM
To: <ic7000@...>
Subject: Re: [IC-7000] Lightning Protection References

Brian,

I agree that approach has several problems, which are easily corrected.
Without knowing the details of how long the coax, ground wires, etc. it is
hard to quantify the degree of the problem.

1. A single ground rod can easily saturate the surrounding ground, at which
point the charge remaining on the coax continues on directly to the radio.

2. Since the radio is connected to a separate ground rod, which is at a low
earth potential (assuming it is some distance from the antenna's ground
rod), all of the remaining current on the coax flows through the radio or
tuner chassis en route to the "radio" ground rod.

3. It is likely the coax entering the structure will have a high enough
voltage on the shield to arc over to nearby objects during an average strike
of 18,000 amps and 2 microsecond rise time. Even outside, the coax can arc
over to nearby objects, creating pinholes ( or worse) in the outer jacket,
allowing water in.

To correct the problem:

1. Move the lightning suppressor to the ground strip near the shack
(assuming it is outside, if not add one outside). This will divert any
induced charges generated by a nearby strike that couple into the coax from
bypassing the suppressor.

2. Use a bulkhead barrel connector where the lightning suppressor was
originally, to ground the coax shield. Mount it to a copper or stainless
steel bracket clamped to the first ground rod.

3. Connect the two ground rods with a #6 bare copper wire, buried 6" or as
deep as possible. This will reduce the dynamic surge impedance of the
ground system and be a parallel path that diverts much of the current from
the coax headed to the shack.

4. Depending on the type of soil, distance between ground rods, type of
antenna, etc., add 1 or 2 additional ground rods connected with radial
wires. Ground rods are cheap and last a long time (in most soil). The
earth isn't a very good conductor, especially at >1 MHz. See pdf page 35 in
the Polyphaser book.

5. Connect your radio ground system to the electrical panel ground, per NEC
requirements.s

Steve, W3AHL

---In ic7000@..., <mcduffie@...> wrote:

On Thu, 9 Jan 2014 11:08:22 -0500, brian mackey wrote:

> My ground is setup where all the gear goes to a grounding strip to a
single

8 foot ground round, and then the antenna is grounded to a separate 8 foot
ground rod (via) a lightning arrester

Very bad practice. The separate ground rods should be BONDED together,
preferably with wide copper strap. Your installation provides plenty of
area
for voltage differences.

Someone also said they used a large braid for grounding. This is another
bad
idea. Braid has plenty of inductance. Inductance at high frequencies (rise
time of the pulse) is high resistance. High resistance leads to high
voltage
between one end of it and the other. This is why solid copper grounds are
recommended. Better yet, flat copper strap. And DON'T make it look neat
with
90 degree bends in the wire, etc. It should be as straight as possible
point to
point, and when turns are needed, they need to be as gradual as possible
(low
inductance).

Gary
--
Web:
NodeOp Page:
Node 3055:

Should the radials be buried as well or just spread out in a direction
away from the house

Brian Mackey
KC1MAC/AG
Hams don't let hams get stuck on 2 meter repeaters!

From: <w3ahl@...>
Reply-To: <ic7000@...>
Date: Thursday, January 9, 2014 at 9:07 PM
To: <ic7000@...>
Subject: Re: [IC-7000] Lightning Protection References






Brian,



I agree that approach has several problems, which are easily corrected.
Without knowing the details of how long the coax, ground wires, etc. it is
hard to quantify the degree of the problem.



1. A single ground rod can easily saturate the surrounding ground, at which
point the charge remaining on the coax continues on directly to the radio.



2. Since the radio is connected to a separate ground rod, which is at a low
earth potential (assuming it is some distance from the antenna's ground
rod), all of the remaining current on the coax flows through the radio or
tuner chassis en route to the "radio" ground rod.



3. It is likely the coax entering the structure will have a high enough
voltage on the shield to arc over to nearby objects during an average strike
of 18,000 amps and 2 microsecond rise time. Even outside, the coax can arc
over to nearby objects, creating pinholes ( or worse) in the outer jacket,
allowing water in.



To correct the problem:



1. Move the lightning suppressor to the ground strip near the shack
(assuming it is outside, if not add one outside). This will divert any
induced charges generated by a nearby strike that couple into the coax from
bypassing the suppressor.



2. Use a bulkhead barrel connector where the lightning suppressor was
originally, to ground the coax shield. Mount it to a copper or stainless
steel bracket clamped to the first ground rod.



3. Connect the two ground rods with a #6 bare copper wire, buried 6" or as
deep as possible. This will reduce the dynamic surge impedance of the
ground system and be a parallel path that diverts much of the current from
the coax headed to the shack.



4. Depending on the type of soil, distance between ground rods, type of
antenna, etc., add 1 or 2 additional ground rods connected with radial
wires. Ground rods are cheap and last a long time (in most soil). The
earth isn't a very good conductor, especially at >1 MHz. See pdf page 35 in
the Polyphaser book.



5. Connect your radio ground system to the electrical panel ground, per NEC
requirements.s



Steve, W3AHL



---In ic7000@..., <mcduffie@...> wrote:

On Thu, 9 Jan 2014 11:08:22 -0500, brian mackey wrote:

> My ground is setup where all the gear goes to a grounding strip to a
single

8 foot ground round, and then the antenna is grounded to a separate 8 foot
ground rod (via) a lightning arrester

Very bad practice. The separate ground rods should be BONDED together,
preferably with wide copper strap. Your installation provides plenty of
area
for voltage differences.

Someone also said they used a large braid for grounding. This is another
bad
idea. Braid has plenty of inductance. Inductance at high frequencies (rise
time of the pulse) is high resistance. High resistance leads to high
voltage
between one end of it and the other. This is why solid copper grounds are
recommended. Better yet, flat copper strap. And DON'T make it look neat
with
90 degree bends in the wire, etc. It should be as straight as possible
point to
point, and when turns are needed, they need to be as gradual as possible
(low
inductance).

Gary
--
Web:
NodeOp Page:
Node 3055:








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thank you may be warm enough this weekend it snowing today but you are
right rods are cheap labor is free, but radio repairs Ouch!

Brian Mackey
KC1MAC/AG
Hams don't let hams get stuck on 2 meter repeaters!

From: <w3ahl@...>
Reply-To: <ic7000@...>
Date: Thursday, January 9, 2014 at 9:07 PM
To: <ic7000@...>
Subject: Re: [IC-7000] Lightning Protection References






Brian,



I agree that approach has several problems, which are easily corrected.
Without knowing the details of how long the coax, ground wires, etc. it is
hard to quantify the degree of the problem.



1. A single ground rod can easily saturate the surrounding ground, at which
point the charge remaining on the coax continues on directly to the radio.



2. Since the radio is connected to a separate ground rod, which is at a low
earth potential (assuming it is some distance from the antenna's ground
rod), all of the remaining current on the coax flows through the radio or
tuner chassis en route to the "radio" ground rod.



3. It is likely the coax entering the structure will have a high enough
voltage on the shield to arc over to nearby objects during an average strike
of 18,000 amps and 2 microsecond rise time. Even outside, the coax can arc
over to nearby objects, creating pinholes ( or worse) in the outer jacket,
allowing water in.



To correct the problem:



1. Move the lightning suppressor to the ground strip near the shack
(assuming it is outside, if not add one outside). This will divert any
induced charges generated by a nearby strike that couple into the coax from
bypassing the suppressor.



2. Use a bulkhead barrel connector where the lightning suppressor was
originally, to ground the coax shield. Mount it to a copper or stainless
steel bracket clamped to the first ground rod.



3. Connect the two ground rods with a #6 bare copper wire, buried 6" or as
deep as possible. This will reduce the dynamic surge impedance of the
ground system and be a parallel path that diverts much of the current from
the coax headed to the shack.



4. Depending on the type of soil, distance between ground rods, type of
antenna, etc., add 1 or 2 additional ground rods connected with radial
wires. Ground rods are cheap and last a long time (in most soil). The
earth isn't a very good conductor, especially at >1 MHz. See pdf page 35 in
the Polyphaser book.



5. Connect your radio ground system to the electrical panel ground, per NEC
requirements.s



Steve, W3AHL



---In ic7000@..., <mcduffie@...> wrote:

On Thu, 9 Jan 2014 11:08:22 -0500, brian mackey wrote:

> My ground is setup where all the gear goes to a grounding strip to a
single

8 foot ground round, and then the antenna is grounded to a separate 8 foot
ground rod (via) a lightning arrester

Very bad practice. The separate ground rods should be BONDED together,
preferably with wide copper strap. Your installation provides plenty of
area
for voltage differences.

Someone also said they used a large braid for grounding. This is another
bad
idea. Braid has plenty of inductance. Inductance at high frequencies (rise
time of the pulse) is high resistance. High resistance leads to high
voltage
between one end of it and the other. This is why solid copper grounds are
recommended. Better yet, flat copper strap. And DON'T make it look neat
with
90 degree bends in the wire, etc. It should be as straight as possible
point to
point, and when turns are needed, they need to be as gradual as possible
(low
inductance).

Gary
--
Web:
NodeOp Page:
Node 3055:

Yes I use the ameritron 811hd

Brian Mackey
KC1MAC/AG
Hams don't let hams get stuck on 2 meter repeaters!

From: <esmorrison1@...>
Reply-To: <ic7000@...>
Date: Thursday, January 9, 2014 at 8:02 PM
To: <ic7000@...>
Subject: [IC-7000] Powering up the 7000






New member today.

Anyone running a linear amp with the 7000?

Would like to run it up to 250 watts - not finding much on the internet
specific to myissue.

It sounds like your electrical Panel box was not grounded to the rods outside at the tower.? Was everything bonded together?? Tower/Radios/rotator control etc and the Mains.? If not you have a huge ground loop and the power fed back from the shack via the 120V plug ground into the panel box and then to everything else in your house.? The fact that the pocket knife spot welded itself means that the two radios are not at the same ground potential and that's another problem.

Rob

On 09 Jan 2014 18:07:45 -0800, <w3ahl@...> wrote:

4. Depending on the type of soil, distance between ground rods, type
of antenna, etc., add 1 or 2 additional ground rods connected with radial
wires. Ground rods are cheap and last a long time (in most soil). The
earth isn't a very good conductor, especially at >1 MHz. See pdf page 35
in the Polyphaser book.

Also, before installing extra ground rods and tying them together, read up on
proper practice for doing so. I don't remember the exact rule, but multiple
ground rods should be spaced at a specific distance apart, ideally in a ring
around a central rod. For instance (only an example, not necessarily factual
numbers), rods should be spaced a distance apart equal to twice the length of
the rods. It has been years since I dealt with this, so I don't remember the
exact rule. You might find it on the TowerTalk archives. The idea is to spread
the pulse into the ground without saturating it like a single rod might do.

Get to know about Cadwelding to bond the rods together with large conductors.

Gary
--
Web:
NodeOp Page:
Node 3055:

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