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Framed stencils have a frame (from aluminium profile) attached at the factory. Frameless ones are just the sheet metal stencil and nothing else.

Please excuse my ignorance. Can someone tell me what a framed solder mask stencil is?? My suspicion is that it is a stencil that fits into some kind of contact frame like screen printing but I have

I made a measuring digital microscope, see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lw1b58kITxQ The cross hairs were drawn, saved as a JPG and overlayed onto the video using a free viewer called Where's

Should add you can set the color of the lines... -vf drawgrid=x=320:y=220:w=1000:h=1000:t=5:color=red

Using ffplay, part of the ffmpeg software, you can overlay a "grid" centered at the, err, center, of your live video, if the grid cell is large enough you will result in just vertical line and a

Hi, I have built a manual pick and place system that gets around my rather unsteady hands (the indignities of age) and have a USB microscope mounted on it to provide a means of aiming, but I need

Excellent! I'm guessing one of two things cause the need to add more solution... either the solution is a bit weak in copper, which would be cured by adding some more copper wire and bubbling... which

l finally got to etch a board in the more concentrated solution and it works very well. Etching was noticeably faster. the solution started off a lovely emerald green and did get darker as the copper

OVERVIEW: This is a simple procedure for preparing 1 liter of cupric chloride etching solution. The tradeoff for the simplicity is a bit of patience as it may take a while to complete the

I use ferric chloride but find heating it a benefit so use an old slow cooker as an etch bath. The temperature can be held quite constant and it works a treat.Regards,PaulFrom Paul

As with ferric chloride solution, I would think that cupric chloride would etch much faster if heated. I used to put the etchant container (a small Pyrex dish) in a larger container that I filled with

One of the basics is to use pool acid (hydrochloric/muriatic) and Hydrogen peroxide (drug store variety). Mix one part of HCL to 6 (IIRC) parts of Hydrogen peroxide. That etches well until the

JimH I'm a lurker and don't post much.? But I'd love to see a write up on how you make your Cupric Chloride solution.? This has been an interesting thread. Dave

To me this means you had some available Cu(2) to dissolve the copper wire, but not enough free HCl to allow 2 Cl ions for each Cu, therefore much of the dissolved copper was in the form of Cu(1)...

Thanks Jim, I added about 3 cm of thick fine-stranded copper wire to my 700 ml of solution and left it overnight with the air pump going. The next morning all the copper had dissolved but the

Realizing it may take some time... please try to remember to let us know the result. It might help a few others who may have strength/peroxide/whatever issues. I'll hunt down and repost my recipe for

Thanks for the tip, I'll do just that! Morris

If the solution goes dark due to Cu(1) during etching you either have a solution that is too dilute or you're using an insufficient volume of solution. I'd guess too dilute.

On 3/5/22 4:23 pm, Morris Odell wrote: > Thanks to everyone who replied! > I do regenerate the solution by bubbling air through it from an aquarium pump but when I'm etching a board the solution gets

I don't make my own PCBs any more (get them made in China) but when I did I used to regenerate the etchant by adding H2O2 and HCl. Over time, the ferric chloride would get replaced by cupric chloride,