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Re: PCB milling - getting started
Hi Jean-Claude, yes, I'll send it this evening. you might need to change it to handle your format if it has any odd commands as some do.
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Re: PCB milling - getting started
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi LeeInteresting description. Would you be willing to send me your hpgl to gcode translator. I use a cheap German pcb program which can only export HPGL, Excellon and Gerber files. I do not use Excellon and Gerber ones, not for me. Regards Jean-Claude Am 08.05.2019 um 22:27 schrieb Lee
Studley:
I didn't really pay much attention to actual depth( and the maths ;-) other than making sure the bit cuts through the copper fully. |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýOften I am milling 100 x 160mm PCBs as they are quite cheap here. To hold them I made a styrofoam vacuum plate and it is working fine. I have even used it for small aluminium parts with light Z-paths and so do not care if the mill is getting a bit lower into the foam. When the styrofoam vacuum plate is then to badly milled in, it is not a problem to make a new one in a short time. The paths are made with a ?2mm mill. The rubber band is also ?2mm.Jean-Claude Am 08.05.2019 um 09:03 schrieb
elfwork@...:
Hi, |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
Hi Svetlo.
I haven't milled PCBs this big.I think the size may be part of my problems. I have milled smaller boards (about 30mm x 60mm and other similar sizes) without any problems. The speeds are probably quite slow.I know what you mean. The larger board I an milling takes a bit over an hour to mill. And that is without drilling :-) - Mark |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
Hi Lee.
The rate was about 3mm/sec so ~180mm/minI settled on the rates I used as it minimized the tear-out on the traces. It could be your copper thickness: it looks like 2oz which might beI haven't actually measured the thickness. The boards I'm using are also from eBay :-) I believe they are 1oz boards. I should check. Yes, I'm in the USA. New Hampshire (northeast) to be exact. :-) - Mark |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
Hi,
I'm successfully milling PCBs on my cnc. The cnc is custom made but it is a small one with aluminum profiles frame and not very stiff. I haven't milled PCBs this big. My biggest is around 50mm x 50mm. I use smd components so I use two v bits one is 0.5 mm 30 deg and one 0.2 mm 15 deg (or maybe 20 deg). I use a double sided tape for holding the board. I use estlcam, but the software should not matter. I use flatcam for the gcode generation. So for 0.2mm bit I use 250 mm per minute and for the 0.5 mm one 350 mm per minute. The process is like this. I first make surface scan. Then mill with the 0.5mm at around 0.08mm - 0.1mm. This should remove the most copper (I make isolation milling 3-4 passes). And then mill with 0.2mm one at 0.1 mm depth (1-2 passes). I get the Z zero for the 0.2 mm around the lowest point. If the bending is more than 0.05 - 0.07 mm. I try to get it at higher point but never to have depth less than 0.05 mm. Also I try to make my traces thicker with the thinnest 20 mils if possible so bigger depth of cut do not make them too thin. Another thing I do is mill a waste board flat and hold it with just few bolts to the table and stick the PCB to that waste board. The speeds are probably quite slow. It takes quite some time to mill a board but I can leave it and do something else. I hope this helps. I'll share some photos in the evening. Svetlo |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
I didn't really pay much attention to actual depth( and the maths ;-) other than making sure the bit cuts through the copper fully.
My min trace width setting in the sw(altium) was 15mils. I use an ancient copy of lpkf software ( from a machine I had years ago ) for the isolation. I wrote an hpgl to gcode translator to process a report that the sw generates. I'm sure the sw you are using does similar paths. The rate was about 3mm/sec so ~180mm/min It could be your copper thickness: it looks like 2oz which might be harder to cut milling-wise(?) Are you in the usa? I can send you a sheet of what I'm using. I got it on ebay way back. |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
Lee, your boards look good.
I'm using similar "V bits. As far as I can tell there not any play in the motor mounts or lead screws. But I can't be certain without actually bring out some of my machinist tools. What sort of settings are you using? The "skating" with the end mill, I used the following: Bit: 0.1mm end mill Spindle speed: about 8000 RPM Depth of cut: .2mm (0.0078") Feed: 30mm / min I also had "skating" with a "V" bit using the following: Bit: 0.1mm 30 degree "V" bit Spindle speed: about 8000 RPM Depth of cut: .2mm (0.0078") Feed: 50mm / min I was able to get a "good" PCB using the following: Bit: 0.1mm 30 degree "V" bit Spindle speed: about 8000 RPM Depth of cut: .4mm (0.0078") Feed: 50mm / min Remembering my trigonometry, this last results in a groove about 0.2mm wide in the copper. Fine for THT but probably marginal for SMT. I am using 0.062" single sided PCB stock. All of these were using done using OpenCNCPilot with auto leveling. It didn't matter whether I used a height map grid size of 5 or 10. - Mark |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
Yes, it does look like it was skating up or something loose in the mechanics. Should look alot nicer than that.??
I settled on using bits like these:? Make sure there's no play in the slides and motor mounts, ballscrews. etc. This picture had some too thin traces but shows fairly good results. |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
To test the depth, I would add the board a trace to outline the board,Great minds must think alike :-) I ran a number of test patterns to test the depth of the cut as well as minimal trace separation for a specific type of cutting / milling bit. I've gotten reasonably good at editing the gcode files to make one off runs. As well as remembering my trigonometry for calculating the "V" bit depth for a given surface width cut. One thing I think is happening is related to the type of bit being used. It appears the end mills I'm using, have a tendency to "skate" up. Especially if any portion of the PCB is not absolutely backed. The "V" bits, I expect because of the taper to the 0.1mm tip, seem to be much less likely to "skate" up. - Mark |
Re: PCB milling - getting started
Also what software are you using for creating the pcb then the isolationI'm creating the basic schematic & PCB layout with Kicad. From there, I use pcb2gcode to translate the Gerber files to gcode. I'm using OpenCNCPilot to do the auto leveling and drive the (Woodpecker) Grbl 1.1f board. BTW, I was getting some really strange results until I placed ferrite chokes on all of the stepper motors as well as the USB cable connecting the PC to Woodpecker board. - Mark |
Re: Drill Press
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi JamesIn order to reduce the hair traces put a polaroid filter in front of the laser. By turning it left/right it does minimize the thickness of the lines. When I was using a laser cross beam for zeroeing that's what I was using. Polaroid foils are available, also a polaroid filter for cameras is good. Jean-Claude, HB3YDH Am 07.05.2019 um 15:23 schrieb wb8nbs:
I have a Delta drill press that came with cross hair laser sights. It works after following a long alignment procedure but the beam is too fat to position anything smaller than 1/8". I think I have used it less than a half dozen times. |
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