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If I recall correctly PR40 cabinets had a "room size" switch, which altered the bass response to suit different sized rooms. richard-brinkerhoff@...> wrote:

The bias is not changing since the resistor is between the cathodes and not between the cathodes and ground. Since the tubes are being driven out of phase with each other it will affect the gain of

Things seem pretty quiet on the list lately, so I thought I'd ask a question: What is the function of the "Bass Correction" switch, on a JR20 tone cab? Looking at the schematic, it appears to switch

I have had problems with old tube sockets. The pins had pretty much lost their springiness so that they were not clamping the pins tightly. No amount of contact cleaning was able to fix that, and I

There may also be a cracked carbon comp resistor creating noise. At this point you may have to shotgun all components connected to that particular output stage, or more. Don Resor Sent from someone's

The problem may be either coupling capacitors, bias or control grid types. When a control grid capacitor goes bad the 6BQ5 output vacuum tube will be allowed to over conduct, or “run away”.

Having an issue with my PR-20 and was hoping for some guidance. It plays fine and sounds great, with one exception: every so often I get a random surge of noise (static/crackle, pops, slight

I had to replace a couple of keys on my 'D' which is only slightly later. I used keys from an M3. It turns out they are about 1/16" shorter than the original keys. If you replace them all it wouldn't

So, I had an "aha" moment about the BCV that I posted about earlier - the one I acquired late last year. It's from 1938, so it should certainly have the "ratcheting" drawbars, in fact unless I miss

Thank you for the advice. I have booked it in for repair. George

PS. There is also a mains fuse that protects the amplifier circuits alone, motors will still run if this fuse has blown. This is FS2 in the schematic, and is the middle one of the three fuses on the

I don't have 330 schematic in my collection, but I don't believe that there is a speaker fuse. I've had a look at the electrically similar 820 schematic (main difference is no horn speaker every thing

Hello, I have a Leslie 330 and all of a sudden I'm am not getting any sound. Motors and everything working normally just no sound output. Is there an output fuse? If any one has any suggestions

Thank you wrote:

The symptoms you describe suggest a mechanical problem with the swell pedal. When you move the swell pedal, does the shaft sticking out of the side of the swell box turn? Try disconnecting the lever

I ended up after a couple of years with an m102 but it had some issues. i recently acquired another m102 in much better shape. It's only problem it seems is that the pedal seems to have on effect on

It is quite a while since I made the list of organs needing new homes.? One M3? and one L100? still operational.? The M2s need work. As far as I can determine, the mechanical parts are fine though

Ah I see, thank you for the explanation, Chris.? And you are quite right: the Leslie had sat for several months, plugged in but without being powered up.

T2 powers the control and standby circuit. When pins 5 &6 relay 1 is activated switching the power on to the main circuits. With no power to the control circuit due to the faulty capacitor, the rest

Quick update: you guys were right!? I plugged the B3000 and the Leslie 330 together, and everything works fine.? It actually sounds great!? More tonewheel-like than I had expected. Anyway thanks