Thanks Scott and several others for the replies. I took the scanner from
my C3 Cleaned it well, as per the bulletin, and installed that. There
was a pretty good amount of oil in it. That is working fine. The problem
was intermittent but it has been over a week now so I am quite sure it
will be good. The scan box caps in that A100 were not wax paper, so that
is also a good sign. My C3, on the other hand... I have cleaned the
scanner from the A100 and started to install it in my C3. When I finish
that, and make sure it is working, I am planning to remove the line box
and replace the wax caps.? At the same time I installed a 26-1 kit
(acquired from Tonewheel General Hospital) and the A100 with 247 is
sounding really good! Customer and I are both well pleased.
BTW the A100 I believe is 1965. I checked - No Foam!
Thanks for the help. it is greatly appreciated.
--
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10/2/2022 11:59 AM, Scott Hawthorn wrote:
On 10/2/2022 9:39 AM, Uwe Menrath wrote:
I'm quite sure that any pan shaped scanners from the -2's on are the
same, also in M-2, M-3, and M-100. The scnners are the same but the wiring is different.
To my surprise, I even found a pan scanner in a T series organ
(TTR-100) with self starting motor, installed here at the TWG's
opposite side.
Weak wax paper capacitors at the vibrato line also are a possible
cause for a chopping vibrato. I'd replace them first. That's incorrect. Broken or shorted ones, maybe.
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On 10/2/2022 9:39 AM, Uwe Menrath wrote: I'm quite sure that any pan shaped scanners from the -2's on are the same, also in M-2, M-3, and M-100. The scnners are the same but the wiring is different. To my surprise, I even found a pan scanner in a T series organ (TTR-100) with self starting motor, installed here at the TWG's opposite side.
Weak wax paper capacitors at the vibrato line also are a possible cause for a chopping vibrato. I'd replace them first. That's incorrect. Broken or shorted ones, maybe.
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And also hard to listen to it's sound ;-)! As many, if not all Hammond organs of those times, it has been a desperate trial to approach the TWG organ sound without a real TWG.
Best regards!
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I'm quite sure that any pan shaped scanners from the -2's on are the same, also in M-2, M-3, and M-100. To my surprise, I even found a pan scanner in a T series organ (TTR-100) with self starting motor, installed here at the TWG's opposite side.
Weak wax paper capacitors at the vibrato line also are a possible cause for a chopping vibrato. I'd replace them first.
Best regards!
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Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
Tried removing 6550 - SUCCESS!
I have a Leslie branded 6550 which works great in either slot, and a Chelmer 6550 which breaks down in either slot after a few minutes.
I will order a new matched pair.
Is there any particular brand I should lean towards?
Is it safe to play for any length of time with only 1 fitted?
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Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
If the problem was in the organ, in the "Main" position, the
popping and crackling would only be heard from the organ speakers,
the Leslie would be silent. In Ensemble, the noise would be heard
from both the Leslie and the organ, in Echo, noise would only be
heard from the Leslie. The original post is quite clear that the
noise comes from the Leslie alone regardless of MEE position,
never from the organ. Ergo, the fault must be in the Leslie.
On 24/09/2022 18:15, Scott Hawthorn
wrote:
On
9/24/2022 10:13 AM, Keith Taylor wrote:
It happens in any MEE position.
Then the problem is in the organ.
--
|
Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
On 9/24/2022 10:13 AM, Keith Taylor wrote: It happens in any MEE position. Then the problem is in the organ.
|
Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
It happens in any MEE position.?
I will first try the 6550's idea. I really hope it isn't capacitors :(
I have read something about the 470ohm resistor connects to OC3 in various articles. If I did have to start looking at soldering stuff would I replace that as well? Anything else I should do whilst it would be out of the cabinet?
Thanks for the quick responses. Really appreciate it.
Keith
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Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
Precisely my point. I think.
On 9/24/2022 9:42 AM, Chris Clifton
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If the Leslie makes a noise when the switch is in Main only
position, then assuming the switch is correctly wired, then the
noise is most definitely not coming from the organ. If there is
a noise only in Ensemble and echo positions, then the noise is
coming from the organ, and would most likely be heard from the
organ speakers alone when set to Main position.
On 24/09/2022 16:54, Scott Hawthorn
wrote:
If the POP appears when the MME switch is in the 'M' position
(Main only) then the noise is coming from the organ, is it not
Chris?
On 9/24/2022 8:13 AM, Chris Clifton
wrote:
Probably a bad 6550 valve, sometimes you can see flashes
inside the bad valve. You could try running the Leslie with
just one 6550 installed. Assuming that only one of the two
valves is bad, it will work with just one. Less volume, and
more distortion, but it will work. If the popping and the
crackling can be pinned down to just one of the 6550's in
this way, change both for a new set.
On 24/09/2022 13:37, Keith Taylor
wrote:
Hi!
Hope you can help me with a problem that has developed in my
Leslie 145.
When it warms up after 5 minutes say, the Leslie starts
popping and cracking this happens consistently with or
without any music being played or regardless the position of
either the MEE or speed switches. If I play, then the pop
will often lead to a huge feedback type sound.
Looking in the back at the amp, the OC3 valve flashes on and
off in tandem with each pop, when it is not popping the
colour stays static. I have bought a NOS tube to see if that
would alleviate but unfortunately the same fault exists.
Please help!
Keith
--
--
|
Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
If the Leslie makes a noise when the switch is in Main only
position, then assuming the switch is correctly wired, then the
noise is most definitely not coming from the organ. If there is a
noise only in Ensemble and echo positions, then the noise is
coming from the organ, and would most likely be heard from the
organ speakers alone when set to Main position.
On 24/09/2022 16:54, Scott Hawthorn
wrote:
If the POP appears when the MME switch is in the 'M' position
(Main only) then the noise is coming from the organ, is it not
Chris?
On 9/24/2022 8:13 AM, Chris Clifton
wrote:
Probably a bad 6550 valve, sometimes you can see flashes
inside the bad valve. You could try running the Leslie with
just one 6550 installed. Assuming that only one of the two
valves is bad, it will work with just one. Less volume, and
more distortion, but it will work. If the popping and the
crackling can be pinned down to just one of the 6550's in this
way, change both for a new set.
On 24/09/2022 13:37, Keith Taylor
wrote:
Hi!
Hope you can help me with a problem that has developed in my
Leslie 145.
When it warms up after 5 minutes say, the Leslie starts
popping and cracking this happens consistently with or without
any music being played or regardless the position of either
the MEE or speed switches. If I play, then the pop will often
lead to a huge feedback type sound.
Looking in the back at the amp, the OC3 valve flashes on and
off in tandem with each pop, when it is not popping the colour
stays static. I have bought a NOS tube to see if that would
alleviate but unfortunately the same fault exists. Please
help!
Keith
--
--
|
Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
The coupling capacitor replacement tip is going into the right direction. Could also be a bad cable or bad soldering joint. What the flashing of the OC3 is concerned: this is pretty normal. That¡¯s what the OC3 is supposed to do, regulate the screen grid voltage when current changes. And the popping is causing quite a large change in current :)
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi!
Hope you can help me with a problem that has developed in my Leslie 145.
When it warms up after 5 minutes say, the Leslie starts popping and cracking this happens consistently with or without any music being played or regardless the position of either the MEE or speed switches. If I play, then the pop will often lead to a huge feedback type sound.
Looking in the back at the amp, the OC3 valve flashes on and off in tandem with each pop, when it is not popping the colour stays static. I have bought a NOS tube to see if that would alleviate but unfortunately the same fault exists. Please help!
Keith
|
Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
If the POP appears when the MME switch is in the 'M' position
(Main only) then the noise is coming from the organ, is it not
Chris?
On 9/24/2022 8:13 AM, Chris Clifton
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Probably a bad 6550 valve, sometimes you can see flashes inside
the bad valve. You could try running the Leslie with just one
6550 installed. Assuming that only one of the two valves is bad,
it will work with just one. Less volume, and more distortion,
but it will work. If the popping and the crackling can be pinned
down to just one of the 6550's in this way, change both for a
new set.
On 24/09/2022 13:37, Keith Taylor
wrote:
Hi!
Hope you can help me with a problem that has developed in my
Leslie 145.
When it warms up after 5 minutes say, the Leslie starts popping
and cracking this happens consistently with or without any music
being played or regardless the position of either the MEE or
speed switches. If I play, then the pop will often lead to a
huge feedback type sound.
Looking in the back at the amp, the OC3 valve flashes on and off
in tandem with each pop, when it is not popping the colour stays
static. I have bought a NOS tube to see if that would alleviate
but unfortunately the same fault exists. Please help!
Keith
--
|
Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
It sounds like you need to replace the coupling capacitors and/or suppression capacitors. This is a schematic for a 122 amp, but that part of the circuit should be the same as a 145.
|
Re: Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
Probably a bad 6550 valve, sometimes you can see flashes inside
the bad valve. You could try running the Leslie with just one 6550
installed. Assuming that only one of the two valves is bad, it
will work with just one. Less volume, and more distortion, but it
will work. If the popping and the crackling can be pinned down to
just one of the 6550's in this way, change both for a new set.
On 24/09/2022 13:37, Keith Taylor
wrote:
Hi!
Hope you can help me with a problem that has developed in my
Leslie 145.
When it warms up after 5 minutes say, the Leslie starts popping
and cracking this happens consistently with or without any music
being played or regardless the position of either the MEE or speed
switches. If I play, then the pop will often lead to a huge
feedback type sound.
Looking in the back at the amp, the OC3 valve flashes on and off
in tandem with each pop, when it is not popping the colour stays
static. I have bought a NOS tube to see if that would alleviate
but unfortunately the same fault exists. Please help!
Keith
--
|
Leslie 145 Popping/Cracking and feedback
Hi!
Hope you can help me with a problem that has developed in my Leslie 145.
When it warms up after 5 minutes say, the Leslie starts popping and cracking this happens consistently with or without any music being played or regardless the position of either the MEE or speed switches. If I play, then the pop will often lead to a huge feedback type sound.
Looking in the back at the amp, the OC3 valve flashes on and off in tandem with each pop, when it is not popping the colour stays static. I have bought a NOS tube to see if that would alleviate but unfortunately the same fault exists. Please help!
Keith
|
Thank you Scott. I am going to dig out my A-143 and take the scanner out. Get that all cleaned out and sealed and take that on the job to be sure. I think that will be my best approach. rich reid boise, id On 9/14/2022 8:56 PM, Scott Hawthorn wrote: For the record, that won't fix it if the problem is just too much oil
in there. It often is.
On 9/14/2022 6:14 PM, Don Resor wrote:
No need to remove it.? You can zap it, to burn off the zinc hair
growth between the stator plates and the back housing.?? It can be
done with padded down b+ with a resistor or a series of 9 volt
batteries.
Don Resor
Sent from someone's iPhone
On Sep 14, 2022, at 2:19 PM, Rich Reid via groups.io
<richreid01@...> wrote:
?THe vibrato is usually (not always) choppy. I was thinking most likely
the scanner needs to be cleaned. I would like to take one of the ones I
have a do it before I go to this customer and just swap parts with it.
On 9/14/2022 12:03 AM, Don Resor wrote:
What¡¯s wrong with the original scanner?
Don Resor
Sent from someone's iPhone
On Sep 13, 2022, at 8:02 PM, Rich Reid via groups.io
<richreid01@...> wrote: ?I have a question I hope someone can answer.? Is the vibrato
scanner in
an A-100 and B2, C2, interchangeable?? I have a customer with an
A-100
and I want to clean/rebuild a scanner to take with me and just
install
it on site. I have a C2 that would be the donor. I also have an A-143
which I assume would be the same as in the A-100. Anyone know about
these? Are there different parts or are they the same?
thank you.
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
--
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
-- Rich Reid 208-861-9263
|
Thanks Eric. That sounds like "zapping" like what is done for the percussion. I saw a youtube video of someone doing that. I believe they used batteries instead, 2 or 3 9volt in series. Burning the dendrites out. I think I might try that. It is a lt easier for sure than removing and cleaning the whole thing. An aside, my A-143 when first turned on there is no vibrato for 15 or 20 minutes. Then after warmup it works fine. I not looked yet but suspect that the scanner is bound up and not turning at first. That organ is in the back, behind a lot of other stuff. It will be very difficult to get to but it is about time for me take care of it. I have a b2 and c2 in the way and few other miscilaneous things to get past. thanks for the tip. On 9/15/2022 4:00 AM, "Eric J. \"Rick\" Allen" wrote: As I get this list in digest form only, I suspect that somebody has
already answered this by now, but here goes anyway...
I have a C3 that was "motorboating" (choppy sound when any vibrato was
turned on.? There is a way to eliminate the carbon buildup in the
scanner without removing it.? The way I was taught to do it was to
remove one of the 12AU7 tubes (mine was on the far right front (as you
look at it)), insert a pin into Pin 1 of the socket.? Then locate
those seven holes with wires running from them (it's been a few years
since I've done this now, so I don't remember the exact details).?
With the other tip of the probe, and a weight on some of the keys,
vibrato on, *rake* the holes.? Yes, you will hear an awful lot of
static when you do this, but as you continue to rake the probe, the
vibrato should start clearing up. Mine worked that way.
Since I am not a real organ tech, I would defer to those who are more
electronically-inclined than I am, though.? But that was the way I was
taught to do this.
Eric in MN
-- Rich Reid 208-861-9263
|
As I get this list in digest form only, I suspect that somebody has already answered this by now, but here goes anyway...
I have a C3 that was "motorboating" (choppy sound when any vibrato was turned on.? There is a way to eliminate the carbon buildup in the scanner without removing it.? The way I was taught to do it was to remove one of the 12AU7 tubes (mine was on the far right front (as you look at it)), insert a pin into Pin 1 of the socket.? Then locate those seven holes with wires running from them (it's been a few years since I've done this now, so I don't remember the exact details).? With the other tip of the probe, and a weight on some of the keys, vibrato on, *rake* the holes.? Yes, you will hear an awful lot of static when you do this, but as you continue to rake the probe, the vibrato should start clearing up. Mine worked that way.
Since I am not a real organ tech, I would defer to those who are more electronically-inclined than I am, though.? But that was the way I was taught to do this.
Eric in MN
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
|
For the record, that won't fix it if the problem is just too much oil in there. It often is.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 9/14/2022 6:14 PM, Don Resor wrote: No need to remove it. You can zap it, to burn off the zinc hair growth between the stator plates and the back housing. It can be done with padded down b+ with a resistor or a series of 9 volt batteries.
Don Resor
Sent from someone's iPhone
On Sep 14, 2022, at 2:19 PM, Rich Reid via groups.io <richreid01@...> wrote:
?THe vibrato is usually (not always) choppy. I was thinking most likely
the scanner needs to be cleaned. I would like to take one of the ones I
have a do it before I go to this customer and just swap parts with it.
On 9/14/2022 12:03 AM, Don Resor wrote:
What¡¯s wrong with the original scanner?
Don Resor
Sent from someone's iPhone
On Sep 13, 2022, at 8:02 PM, Rich Reid via groups.io <richreid01@...> wrote: ?I have a question I hope someone can answer. Is the vibrato scanner in
an A-100 and B2, C2, interchangeable? I have a customer with an A-100
and I want to clean/rebuild a scanner to take with me and just install
it on site. I have a C2 that would be the donor. I also have an A-143
which I assume would be the same as in the A-100. Anyone know about
these? Are there different parts or are they the same?
thank you.
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
--
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
|
No need to remove it. You can zap it, to burn off the zinc hair growth between the stator plates and the back housing. It can be done with padded down b+ with a resistor or a series of 9 volt batteries.
Don Resor
Sent from someone's iPhone
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 14, 2022, at 2:19 PM, Rich Reid via groups.io <richreid01@...> wrote:
?THe vibrato is usually (not always) choppy. I was thinking most likely
the scanner needs to be cleaned. I would like to take one of the ones I
have a do it before I go to this customer and just swap parts with it.
On 9/14/2022 12:03 AM, Don Resor wrote:
What¡¯s wrong with the original scanner?
Don Resor
Sent from someone's iPhone
On Sep 13, 2022, at 8:02 PM, Rich Reid via groups.io <richreid01@...> wrote: ?I have a question I hope someone can answer. Is the vibrato scanner in
an A-100 and B2, C2, interchangeable? I have a customer with an A-100
and I want to clean/rebuild a scanner to take with me and just install
it on site. I have a C2 that would be the donor. I also have an A-143
which I assume would be the same as in the A-100. Anyone know about
these? Are there different parts or are they the same?
thank you.
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
--
Rich Reid
208-861-9263
|
Uwe Menrath
Christoph