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What is the purpose of the green wire going to the battery pack ?
I know that it needs to be disconnected if you want to use rechargable
batteries in the pack
but I haven't read or heard of the technical purpose of what it is doing
in circuit.
Anyone ?

(Please cc your reply to me by e-mail).

Thanks de Hugh VA3TO

--- In FT817@y..., Duffer <hduff@i...> wrote:

Does anyone know if Tim O'Rourke still has the miniature battery

connectors with pigtails

as mentioned in the FAQs ? There's no mention of an e-mail address

for Tim. I'd like to

find out if anyone knows what he may still have before sending him

some money only to

find out he's out of them.

I'm having a hell of a time getting one of these connectors to put

onto the end of my Radio Shack NiMH battery pack. If anyone else

has a spare one, please drop me a line.

Thanks de Hugh VA3TO

Hi Hugh,

Just do a quick search of this archive for Tim and you will have his
email address. The FAQ has his mailing address.

72 de Barry - W4WB

Does anyone know if Tim O'Rourke still has the miniature battery connectors with pigtails
as mentioned in the FAQs ? There's no mention of an e-mail address for Tim. I'd like to
find out if anyone knows what he may still have before sending him some money only to
find out he's out of them.

I'm having a hell of a time getting one of these connectors to put onto the end of my Radio Shack NiMH battery pack. If anyone else
has a spare one, please drop me a line.

Thanks de Hugh VA3TO

I too had similar experiences.... not as many contacts because I didn't spend as much time... using a G5RV up about 50 feet.... contacts were always exciting.... been using qrp over the past 30 years and like the 817 best! Have had many other qrp rigs but nothing compares to the fun I'm having with this little guy!

QRP FOREVER!

Dave

From: k5btk@...
Reply-To: FT817@...
To: FT817@...
Subject: [FT817] WPX Contacts...
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 21:14:21 -0000

I saw Chip's comments on the success he had over the weekend with the
little rig. I can't top his record! But I did want to just mention
that I, too, enjoyed contesting last weekend with the '817.

Over a period of a little better than 10 hours, I made 60 DX (only)
contacts. All but 4 or 5 were in Europe and the remaining few were in
the Pacific (JA & VK) and South America. Three or four of the
contacts were on 10 meters or 15 meters. All the others were on 20
meters. All contacts were with a (15 ft high) 20 meter dipole and no
tuner.

I was using my new CW filter which UPS delivered only a couple of
hours before the contest began! It sure does help - especially when
coupled with the movable bandpass.

I made one contact at the end with the 1000mp just to confirm the
fact that it is easier with the "big rig". It is! But there's no
denying the special kind of fun that comes with doing it with the
little fellow.

I really appreciate how hard several of the guys worked in "breaking
their rhythm" to allow the multiple repeats it occasionally took to
make the contact. I never mentioned in any contact that the rig was
QRP. Thanks again guys!

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at

--- In FT817@y..., zellmer@r... wrote:

I have been reading about the MP-1 whip with some interest and am
wondering about the contruction. I am assuming that the coil and
cover assembly work like an inverted screw driver antenna, i.e.,

the

cover slides down over the coil from the top. What is not clear

from

the pictures of the MP-1, is the construction of the cover. I

though

a couple of questions might be in order for those of us who might
want to home brew one of these.
1. Is the outer cover constructed from or contain a metal sleve

that

capacitively shorts out the covered portion of the coil like on the
screw driver antenna (eliminates current loops in shorted portion

of

coil).

*** Metal.

2. Does the coil shorting contact use a single point contact, or a
continous (circular) contact made from finger stock or a spiral

wire

oring gizmo (always liked that word).

*** Finger stock.

3. I am also assuming that the MP-1 works better when an extention
is inserted under the coil to get it up the whip a few feet.

*** It already has a small extention that positions the coil somewhat
above the base. This is part of Verne's design.

72 de Barry - W4WB

73,

Jim Zellmer, KA0VSL

thankyou thankyou thankyou x10 to infinity.

Dave

From: w4wb@...
Reply-To: FT817@...
To: FT817@...
Subject: [FT817] Re: FAQ UPDATE in Files Section
Date: Thu, 31 May 2001 22:55:12 -0000

--- In FT817@y..., "Dave B" <dave756pro@h...> wrote:

How can I get a copy of the .pdf file emailed to me?

Dave

Well, send me an email as follows:

TO: FAQ@...

SUBJECT: FT817 (note: no hyphen!)

No message is nedded. Be sure your reply address is where you want
to have it sent.

I don't read these emails. My filters sort them out automaticcally.
If you don't do exactly as stated above, the old filter directs it to
the trash can!

Everyone on the "I want it emailed list" gets it sent each time I
upload a new pdf version of the FAQ. This is now about once a month
it seems.

If anyone has a good tip or knowledge appropriate to include in the
FAQ, please send it to me.

72 de Barry - W4WB
FT817 Group FAQ Moderator

_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at

please note, that with the optional CW- Filter installed and using
PSK31-U with NAR filter on, you are most likely NOT TRANSCEIVE !
I mean, that bandpass is offset by about -200Hz, when switching NAR
on or off, but your transmitter is always on the USB-Wide passband
and so you transmitt on a different QRG than you receive, with the CW
filter on!
the only workaound I found is to use DIGITAL MODE SETTING: USER-U
instead of PSK-U
Any other comments?
vy 73 de oe3mzc@...
Mike
--- In FT817@y..., "Dr Thomas A Clark" <w3iwi@y...> wrote:

Hey Gang,What would be best 300 or500hz filter for CW if one was
going to do PSK-231??Len

With PSK31, the real bandwidth you use is set by the DSP filters in
the soundblaster-based PSK31 software you use. The reaso for using

a

narrower bandwidth filter is to reduce the clutter & intermod & AGC
pumping & SoundBlaster dynamic range problems.

Here I'm using the INRAD 500 Hz filter (which seems closer to 600

Hz

in practice) and it works well. As a hint when you use such a

filter.

Push the CLAR button for 1+ seconds, and the SEL knob becomes a
passband tuning control. This can be used to select the stations

that

are in the passband. Often I can push an offending "bad-guy" off

the

edge by using this PBT control.

Here I found that if you set #26 DIG=PSK31-U, toggling the filter
on/off causes a ~30 Hz frequency shift. Instead, set #26 DIG=USER-U
and this annoying bug goes away.

73 de Tom, W3IWI

--- In FT817@y..., zellmer@r... wrote:

I have been reading about the MP-1 whip with some interest and am
wondering about the contruction. I am assuming that the coil and
cover assembly work like an inverted screw driver antenna, i.e.,

the

cover slides down over the coil from the top. What is not clear

from

the pictures of the MP-1, is the construction of the cover. I

though

a couple of questions might be in order for those of us who might
want to home brew one of these.
1. Is the outer cover constructed from or contain a metal sleve

that

capacitively shorts out the covered portion of the coil like on the
screw driver antenna (eliminates current loops in shorted portion

of

coil).

Yes.

2. Does the coil shorting contact use a single point contact, or a
continous (circular) contact made from finger stock or a spiral

wire

oring gizmo (always liked that word).

A continuous contact made of finger stock.

3. I am also assuming that the MP-1 works better when an extention
is inserted under the coil to get it up the whip a few feet.

Many have stated this, although I don't have an extension so haven't
tried it. Of course, with that, you would lose the MP-1's advantage
of packing down to a short length, in which case other, longer whips
could be considered as an alternative.

Julian, G4ILO

I think this is a good starting point. After trying with radials of
different lengths, I tried the MP-1 with the steel tape measure
counterpoise I used with the ATX. I managed to get good SWR on all
bands 10 thru 20 and no RF on the feeder. Haven't come up with a
solution for the lower bands yet. though.

I echo your warning about the risks of adjusting for low SWR, though.
On any band, you can move either the coil or adjust the counterpoise
to get the best SWR. However, I found that you can be moving the coil
away from the point at which signals are loudest, in order to get the
lowest SWR. You need to keep an ear on the signal level as well as
the SWR, and try to pick a coil setting/counterpoise length combo
that gives the best results for both. The MP-1 is not an easy antenna
to tune, for that reason.

To be honest, I don't think the MP-1 is an ideal antenna for use with
the FT-817. It is better suited to the K2, which has a built in
tuner, so you can peak for maximum noise and then just hit the Tune
button. Trying to adjust the MP-1 to get a 1:1 into 50 ohms seems to
be the root cause of all the problems. Which is understandable when
you read the antenna books which state that a base loaded whip is
anything but 50 ohms...

Julian, G4ILO

On the Elecraft list recently a couple of postings didn't rate the
Outbacker much at all, especially when considering its price. Just
goes to show how subjective people's opinions of antenna performance
is, I guess.

Julian, G4ILO

--- In FT817@y..., Mike Tatum <miket@c...> wrote:

Hi David !

I was surprised how well the Outbacker Outreach and Alpha Delta

Tripod worked,

I have to admit it's nice to try a friends one before I buy

one !! :)

This weekend was the first time I'd made contacts across the pond

using the FT817, so

I guess the Outbacker had something to do with it as well :)

Cheers!

MikeT ...

Gene,
dont forget this points:

1. The PM-1 will result in a 2-3 S-Units lower signal compared to a dipol in
good shape. If you produce a "just above noise" signal with a dipol, you
will not be heard with the PM-1

2. All extrem short Monopole Antennas like the PM-1 have a significant
greater dead zone due to very flat vertical radiation angle.

3. A long wire gives good gain in two directions. Hard to compare with an
antenna which produces a round pattern.

IMHO Antennas as rigs are not "good" or "bad", they are good under some
circumstances and bad under others. How good is my FT1000D if I use it as a
portable rig?

In my garden I use a GAP Titan and a G5RV installed at only 7m hight. If I
try to make contacts below 1000 km, I prefere the G5RV because its 3 to 4 S
Units better the the GAP. At DX contacts the GAP outperforms the G5RV. So it
was a good idea to compare the GAP with the PM-1. The GAP was ways "better"
then the PM-1 on DX contacts - BUT - have you ever tried to carry a GAP
Titan with you while biking or travelling by aeroplane?

If I see a chance to carry a real Antenna with me and to install it, I do.
If I am on short trips the discussion is another. Its not to be discussed
what Antenna is the best, but it the Question Antenna or no Antenna ;-) So I
decided to have the PM-1 instead of no Antenna.

72/73 de Peter, DL2FI


German QRP Group DL-QRP-AG
QRPproject QRP and homebrew international

Bil Glyph wrote:

What is ERP -- earned run potential?

ERP = Effective Radiated Power

Basically, radiated power in a useful desired direction.
In the case of 14MHz DX, the desired directions are low elevation
angles less than 30 degrees.

Bonnie KQ6XA

What is ERP -- earned run potential?

-- Bil

Gene -- an MP-1 has its place, but as you learned, it has its limitations!
Maybe if it had been 20 feet off the ground, the results would've been
better.

It would really be fun to have an antenna "shoot-out" all at one time, using
5 watts. I've seen it done with mobile (auto) antennas. Let's see, the
shoot-out would have a couple of the antennas designed for the 817, an MP-1,
a simple dipole, a long wire, a yagi beam, a vertical, etc. Of course, even
then, the results would be hard to compare precisely because of the
directionality and take-off angles of some of the antennas. Like -- what's
the directionality of a long wire (I'm thinking 100 feet -- 30 meters -- or
more).

-- Bil KD6JUI

I have been reading about the MP-1 whip with some interest and am
wondering about the contruction. I am assuming that the coil and
cover assembly work like an inverted screw driver antenna, i.e., the
cover slides down over the coil from the top. What is not clear from
the pictures of the MP-1, is the construction of the cover. I though
a couple of questions might be in order for those of us who might
want to home brew one of these.
1. Is the outer cover constructed from or contain a metal sleve that
capacitively shorts out the covered portion of the coil like on the
screw driver antenna (eliminates current loops in shorted portion of
coil).
2. Does the coil shorting contact use a single point contact, or a
continous (circular) contact made from finger stock or a spiral wire
oring gizmo (always liked that word).
3. I am also assuming that the MP-1 works better when an extention
is inserted under the coil to get it up the whip a few feet.

73,

Jim Zellmer, KA0VSL

Greetings FT-817 aficionados.

I have been playing with a FT-817 for a couple of months now and have
enjoyed the traffic in this very active egroup. Kudos to the
moderators and contributors.

I purchased my FT-817 with the optional NiCad Pac and wall wart.
These have worked well for me. I picked up a portable 12 Volt power
source with 8 amp-hr 12 SLA cells for $5 at a local hamfest. $25
later for a couple of new cells it is working nicely to.

I have a 20 foot telescopic fishing pole that collapses down to 4
feet. After a trip to the local home depot and $3.25 later, I came
home with a 12" twisted gutter spike and a couple of plastic plumbing
fittins that will clamp over the lower end of the fishing pole.

I have tried a ground plane antenna useing the 20 foot pole with a 20
foot vertical wire and 4 20 foot radials and fed the thing with 300
ohm twin lead. Tried loading it up with my Dentron Monitor Jr. Tuner
and could not hear anything near what I expected to hear. The twin
lead was cheap TV stuff and might have been defective. I pulled
the vertical wire and radials down and used the pole to support a 44
foot end feed wire inverted vee with a 44 foot counterpoise. Loaded
it up with the Dentron Tuner and heard lots of sigs coming in. Did
not have lots of time for contacts, but did have a couple of short
QSOs on 20 meters. I will probably used the 20 foot pole and the 2
44 foot wires for my portable operations.

The little Dentron Monitor Jr. tuner is some taller than the LZ-11
and is not automatic, but it does have the same size foot print as
the FT-817 and is a nice tee match tuner. Usually goes for about $35-
40 on ebay.

I flew out of New England a few weeks ago and took the FT-817, a four
mag base and my ham sticks along. I was about to make many contacts
on 20 meters and 17 meters using 5 watts SSB as long as the QRM was
down. In general though, I have much better results with the 50
watts from my Ten Tec Argosy.

I also recently picked up a little Outbacker JR. whip at a hamfest
complete with comet adjustable hatch back mount and coax. Not a bad
a bay for $100 for the works. The Outbacker Jr. is only about 4 foot
long and performance is pretty acceptable for mobile, although not as
good as my ham sticks (aobut 7 foot long) I might try it on a bicycle
mobile setup.

TNX ES 73

Jim Zellmer, KA0VSL
Des Moines, IA

I was intrigued with W3VET's idea of making a roll-up antenna out of a
chalkline. So when I spotted them on sale for $2.99 at the local hardware
store I just had to give it a try. Here's the result:



I used some 20 ga. teflon-coated wire that was tangled up in the junkbox,
and got at least 50' on the reel. If you used 22 ga., I'm sure you could
get a quarter wave on 40 meters. I mainly wanted something for receiving
but will probably try it out on transmit with a suitable counterpoise before
long. The big clamp will make it easy to fasten to most anything handy for
supporting the end and the best part is this project took about 5 minutes
start to finish ;-)

I've only had my FT-817 for a week (thanks to great service from George
Howard at GIGAPARTS!) and really appreciate the good info on this group.
But for those of us who take the digest version - would you PLEASE trim your
posts of excessive over-quoting? Thanks!

73, Bob W9RAN

No manufacturer is selling a better performing or more versatile
portable whip for the FT-817 at this time, as far as I know. Anyone
tried a better one?

Bonnie KQ6XA

Hi Bonnie,

Yes, I find the B&W AP-10A works somewhat better than the MP-1. The
B&W antenna is more efficient than the MP-1 (Q of B&W coil (length to
diameter ratio = 2) is higher than for the MP-1 (length to diameter
ratio = 7)) by perhaps 40% depending upon ground loss resistance and
various other parameters. I am comparing apples to apples by getting
rid of the supplied MP-1 radials and using a tuned counterpoise for
bands below 12 m. I note that both antennas are essentially the same
size when in their operational configuration.

Either antenna will give reasonable results when the bands are open.
Seems to me significant factors are weight, packed size, and cost.
With the brackets and such of the B&W, its weight is a bit more than
the MP-1. The packed size of the MP-1 can not be beat and is a
factor for real consideration by those that travel a lot and have
serious limitations on luggage. On the other hand, the B&W AP-10A
only costs about 1/2 of the MP-1 and still packs well. Is the slight
improvement in efficiency important? I suggest that a faction of a S-
unit is well within the signal fluctuations typically observed during
a QSO. Consequently, no.

As a final note to those using the FT-817 SWR meter, beware. It is
not that good. Get a good SWR meter or an antenna analyzer such as
the MFJ 259B if you have room or the Autek RF-1 if size (and cost)
are a factor. If you need to find a good starting place when
adjusting the coil on either antenna, listen for maximum noise. The
atmospheric noise is (almost) always a lot higher than the receiver
noise. Also, just moving the radials about to get a low SWR doesn't
mean you are radiating. A dummy load has low SWR as has been pointed
out many times before. The importance of a proper counterpoise and
being sure the antenna and the counterpoise are not heating up the
Earth or some other object can not be over stressed.

72 de Barry - W4WB

Hey Gang,What would be best 300 or500hz filter for CW if one was
going to do PSK-231??Len

With PSK31, the real bandwidth you use is set by the DSP filters in
the soundblaster-based PSK31 software you use. The reaso for using a
narrower bandwidth filter is to reduce the clutter & intermod & AGC
pumping & SoundBlaster dynamic range problems.

Here I'm using the INRAD 500 Hz filter (which seems closer to 600 Hz
in practice) and it works well. As a hint when you use such a filter.
Push the CLAR button for 1+ seconds, and the SEL knob becomes a
passband tuning control. This can be used to select the stations that
are in the passband. Often I can push an offending "bad-guy" off the
edge by using this PBT control.

Here I found that if you set #26 DIG=PSK31-U, toggling the filter
on/off causes a ~30 Hz frequency shift. Instead, set #26 DIG=USER-U
and this annoying bug goes away.

73 de Tom, W3IWI

I'm planning to bring my new FT-817 to St. John's
Newfoundland and make the trek to Signal Hill on
Saturday June 2 in the afternoon. It's the 100th
Anniversary this year of Marconi's transatlantic
wireless transmission and I can't think of a
better use for such a technological marvel as the
817. Can't give you an exact time, but I particularly
want to work 6 meters cw.

Look for VA3ZU/VO1 and I'll use that great little
program QSLMAKER to produce special QSL's. If I work
you, my address is listed correctly on the QTH search
engines such as the Radio Amateurs of Canada website.

73,
Mark VA3ZU
Ottawa, ON Canada