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What possible value would putting a 12 v pack into the rig have? You
can run the rig at full output power by simply connectind a 9.6 V
pack into the external power plug. Remember that a fully charged 9.6
V NiMH batery pack has an output voltage of about 11.2 V.

72 de Barry - W4WB

--- In FT817@y..., g4ilo@q... wrote:

I don't think you'd get 200mA (actually more like 240-250mA) if you
installed a 12V battery internally, as Frank suggested. I think the
only solution if anyone tried that would be to add a separate
charging socket.

Julian, G4ILO

--- In FT817@y..., "David Perry" <david.perry3@v...> wrote:

The charge time can be set from 6 hours to ten hours. The

current

is fixed

at c200 mAh, so 1600 NiMH cells take two ten hour charges.

Email me if you need further assistance. (the green wire mod is

easypeasy by

the way).

David


----- Original Message -----
From: <werhr@y...>
To: <FT817@y...>
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 11:58 PM
Subject: [FT817] Re: Battery compartment (Dave Perry)

Dave:

That is exactly what I needed. Did not know there was some sort

of

removable tray for the AA batteries.

On another note, I assume that when unit is powered from a ext

12v

source that there is some sort of control over the charging of

the

internal battery. Do you know if the charge level of the

internal

batt is adjustable via software? Thinking of installing a 12v
internal batt supply if the charge level can be adjusted up

from

9.6 v

Thanks

Frank

W9LVC

--- In FT817@y..., "David Perry" <david.perry3@v...> wrote:

The charge time can be set from 6 hours to ten hours. The current

is fixed

at c200 mAh, so 1600 NiMH cells take two ten hour charges.

Email me if you need further assistance. (the green wire mod is

easypeasy by

the way).

David

David,

You are not doing your batteries any good by overcharging David. The
charge acceptance factor varies from about 1.2 to 1.6 depending upon
brand, initial discharge state, and ambient temperature. Your
suggestion of a factor of 2.3 is excessive and 190 mA is well beyond
the allowable overcharge current. The result is reduced lifetime and
charge capacity.

With a fast charger, I > = 1600 mA, the charge acceptance is near
unity (1.05 to 1.1) and then temperature rises rapidly as the battery
near capacity. An intermediate charger (600-800 mAh) has a somewhat
poorer charge acceptance. When the charge is on the order of 0.1 C,
you can pack a bit more charge in some batteries. Perhaps an
additional 10-30% but varies from brand to brand.

I would not charge 1600 mAh batteries more than 14-16 hrs with 12
being likely just fine. After you have conditioned your batteries,
try the following experiment. Let the radio discharge the battery
pack. Then charge at 10, 12, 14, and 16 hours (if necessary) and let
the radio discharge the battery pack with no antenna connected and
volume off. Record the time for discharge without giving the pack a
rest during the test. If you see little meaningful difference
between 10 and 12 hrs. Stop. Use the 10 hrs. If 12 hrs gives more
discharge time than 10 hrs charge time, then do the test with 14
hrs. And so on. Be sure to let the battery pack rest at least 1/2
hour after discharge before charging, and a 1/2 hour rest before
starting the test after charging.

72 de Barry - W4WB

Lowes carries an Aluminum/Plastic Brief Case for 24.97 and it has
removable partitions and pre-punched foam so both or either could be
used to store FT-817, MP-1, Z-11 Tuner, Dipole, and key.

The website has a picture of the case.


000010203-VGC-5200

Case is made by Guardforce
Item number 24981
Model VGC-5200

FYI, hope this helps...

KG4FXG Bill Carter

Not trying to sound short here but you just gotta download and read
the FAQ's on this page. I print them out whenever updated and they
answer all my questions and even some I don't have. Also look at
some of the links from other readers, and before you know it you will
be on info overload.

Have a ball, it's a great rig!

73
W1TMD

--- In FT817@y..., "Brian B. Riley, N1BQ" <n1bq@w...> wrote:

In the FAQ and on the list people keep mentioning "pico fuses" for
setting up the Rat Shack NiMH with the connectors as the internal
battery pack ... what are they and where do you find them? I have

the

battery pack and I got my connectors from Tim (Thanks Tim!), so now
where do I find the "pico fuses" ????

72 de brian, n1bq

--- In FT817@y..., "Brian B. Riley, N1BQ" <n1bq@w...> wrote:

In the FAQ and on the list people keep mentioning "pico fuses" for
setting up the Rat Shack NiMH with the connectors as the internal
battery pack ... what are they and where do you find them? I have

the

battery pack and I got my connectors from Tim (Thanks Tim!), so now
where do I find the "pico fuses" ????

72 de brian, n1bq

Pico fuses (mfr: Wickman) are in the Digi-Key catalog
(www.digikey.com). There is a possible alternative available from RS
(online only) which they list as a subminiature fuse. This is
approximately the same size as the pico fuse. The part no. for 2A is
MCR-2. I'm about to order some.

Pete, NI9N

I don't think you'd get 200mA (actually more like 240-250mA) if you
installed a 12V battery internally, as Frank suggested. I think the
only solution if anyone tried that would be to add a separate
charging socket.

Julian, G4ILO

--- In FT817@y..., "David Perry" <david.perry3@v...> wrote:

The charge time can be set from 6 hours to ten hours. The current

is fixed

at c200 mAh, so 1600 NiMH cells take two ten hour charges.

Email me if you need further assistance. (the green wire mod is

easypeasy by

the way).

David


----- Original Message -----
From: <werhr@y...>
To: <FT817@y...>
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2001 11:58 PM
Subject: [FT817] Re: Battery compartment (Dave Perry)

Dave:

That is exactly what I needed. Did not know there was some sort of
removable tray for the AA batteries.

On another note, I assume that when unit is powered from a ext 12v
source that there is some sort of control over the charging of the
internal battery. Do you know if the charge level of the internal
batt is adjustable via software? Thinking of installing a 12v
internal batt supply if the charge level can be adjusted up from

9.6 v

Thanks

Frank

W9LVC

The charge time can be set from 6 hours to ten hours. The current is fixed
at c200 mAh, so 1600 NiMH cells take two ten hour charges.

Email me if you need further assistance. (the green wire mod is easypeasy by
the way).

David

Nor me, but roach poles are geat aerial poles. car boot sales let them go
for about a fiver each. Come as 5 or 7 metre ones. CAUTION the black
ones...carbon fibre!!!

David

Try a wire dipole. Cheaper, lighter, easier to pack and better to use
David

As for the subject of "What is Low Power?"... The standard definition
of "QRP" is <5 Watts transmitter output power on CW. But SSB is a very
different mode from CW, especially when considering propagation on the
middle HF frequencies (14MHz). 50 Watts SSB forms a practical dividing
line between "low power" and "normal power" classes of SSB stations on
20 metres. 50Watts SSB has a similar communication capability as
about 2Watts or 5Watts CW.

Of course their is a rule for QRP SSB since long times. All QRP Clubs
worldwide accept 10W PEP as SSB QRP Power.
As far as I know, the new ARRL QRP DXCC starting Jan 2001 also says 10W PEP
to be QRP SSB


72/73 de Peter, DL2FI

Hi! I would be glad to set up a schedule with you so you can remove the
virginity on your 817. Email me directly. Shouldn't be a problem to make
contact 817 to 817.

Paul
KB8VWV
Charlevoix, MI
IslPilot@...

I use a steel tape measure connected to the back of the 817
(alligator clip fixed to the earth termonal screw) and extend it to
240cm for 10 metres. No SWR indication. Adjust the top whip section
for best receive.

Julian, G4ILO

--- In FT817@y..., Bob Conder <Bconder@c...> wrote:

-Been trying to use the ATX,(connected to the rear coax with Radio

Shack

adaptors) connector of the 817 on the beach in SC.
Yesterday, worked Brazil on 10m, but still get several SWR bars (4

or5)

regardless of the pin position, antenna height, and length of

couterpoise

(cut to their specs). That is, with the usual specs per Waters and

Stanton

instructions, get HSWR readings, so I've been experimenting.
-Has anyone else had this problem? Does this mean the ATX is bad

(the base

of the whip will spin around on the BNC connector)?
-Thanks in advance,
Bob K4RLC (portable in South Carolina)

How can it work better on RX and not on TX? Both RX and TX are 50
ohm, and so the Q, matching etc. will be the same for both.

Julian, G4ILO

--- In FT817@y..., "David Perry" <david.perry3@v...> wrote:

Is that 2 s points on Rx or Tx? I think the ATX works well on Rx,

just not

so hot on Tx. You'd have to make me swill a lot of beer to

convince the ATX

was in the same game as a dipole!
David

I'll take your word for it. I know nothing at all about fishing!

Julian, G4ILO

--- In FT817@y..., "David Perry" <david.perry3@v...> wrote:

Julian, I think for us UK based mortals a second hand gf roach pole

is the

best option, don't you?

David

Bil KD6JUI wrote:

Some people have posted messages about rolling
antenna wire into an empty chalkline reel

The following link answers all your questions:


Bonnie KQ6XA

How about an antenna shootout with an ATX, MP-1, low dipole on fiberglass
pole, and anything else truly portable someone's excited enough to bring
along? I realize this won't settle a darn thing :) but could be done blind
(only transmit as antenna A, antenna B, etc.) and get some reports back. If
we wanted to be tricky, we could slip in the same antenna at different power
levels and see if anyone could tell the difference.

If anyone is interested, and is in the western Chicago suburbs or wants to go
there, we could pick a time and frequency, head for a big open field in the
Forest Preserves, and have at it, cycling in 20 - 30 second increments, and
get reports back from others on the reflector. 0000 - 0100Z would probably
be good here for 18, 14, 10 and 7 mhz, and allow for possible propogation to
Eu and SA (+/_) sunspots, and make a week night a possibility both for
transmitters and listeners. I'd do it myself, but don't run anything except
a Hustler, a homemade 10 foot whip and an open wire dipole, and am too cheap
to buy one of those fancy whips...In any event it could be an interesting
gathering of the local FT817 crowd.

Or maybe somebody on the east and west coast can do this, and I can sit
inside, in the air conditioned bug-free environs, listening with an 807 in
hand and the 817 in the other...

73 Scott


If anyone's interested, pleae contact me direct

Some people have posted messages about rolling antenna wire into an empty chalkline reel -- it would make a fine container, and it would make retrieving the wire fast.

Today I tried rolling some #22 insulated copper stranded wire (90 feet purchased at my friendly Rad Shak) -- and probably only 60 + feet went in. Anyone had any luck getting as much as 100 feet in? Where can one buy #26 or so insulated wire? Rad Shak doesn't seem to carry anything smaller than #22. I checked out my local ham flea market last weekend with no luck.

Has anyone tried winding enameled one-strand magnet wire into a chalkline reel? Due to lack of plastic insulation, it should be possible to get 100 feet of wire in OK. Trouble with magnet wire is that it can get kinks in it easily, it can be unwieldy and it can stretch.

I definitely want to stay with copper wire for this application.

BTW, I took my 817 and my Emtech ZM2 tuner and attached adhesive velcro strips to the top of the 817 back behind the speaker, and to the side of the ZM2, so now the tuner can be held to the top of the 817 with velcro. A short section of coax runs between the front of the rig and the tuner. Now the controls of the ZM2 are as easily accessible to the operator as are the controls of the 817.

Bands didn't seem to be doing much this weekend. Quite a bit of QRN here.

-- Bil KD6JUI

Where do you live?

-- Bil KD6JUI