Re: Larger/brighter Display option
Thanks Greg. I’m nowhere as talented as you in understanding ?the options. I do have a spare backup camera kit…hmmm. My other concern is that I’m using the CAT connection for the Z817 LDG tuner. So unless there is a way to use both devices together or an A-B switch, assuming baud rate etc are the same, it just complicates the radio. Maybe my pico LED front illumination idea is the easiest, if not very elegant. Mike Davis WA1MAD
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On Dec 21, 2024, at 1:27?PM, Greg D via groups.io <ko6th.greg@...> wrote:
?
I've not used that particular product, but I don't think there's
much more to know about it.? Connect it to the radio and get the two
to talking.? The device just loops through fetching the parameters,
displaying the information on the screen.? You probably want to
cobble some sort of case for it, to protect the electronics.
I built something similar from a Raspberry Pi 3B.? I have the radio
in my car, and as you can imagine it's impossible to read the
display while driving.? But the car's in-dash radio display has an
input for a back-up camera, so I wired the Pi's video out into that
and wrote a short Python script to read the radio's frequency, mode,
and such, displaying them on the screen.? The car's display is FAR
more visible, and with the Pi I can run other radio-related apps
such as YAAC for an APRS map.
Greg? KO6TH
Michael Davis via groups.io wrote:
Hi, my non ND 817 display is fine, but 2 color backlighting
isn’t very helpful in low light. I see a $42.88 external CAT
display device, 12864 on Ali Express, but very little info. I’m
not skilled enough to do any mods, but a plug and play,
inexpensive option would be nice. For now, I’m experimenting
with an external, soft white, pico LED to illuminate the screen
from the front. Kind of like a reading book light. Anyone using
this or other device? Thanks
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Re: Larger/brighter Display option
I've not used that particular product, but I don't think there's
much more to know about it.? Connect it to the radio and get the two
to talking.? The device just loops through fetching the parameters,
displaying the information on the screen.? You probably want to
cobble some sort of case for it, to protect the electronics.
I built something similar from a Raspberry Pi 3B.? I have the radio
in my car, and as you can imagine it's impossible to read the
display while driving.? But the car's in-dash radio display has an
input for a back-up camera, so I wired the Pi's video out into that
and wrote a short Python script to read the radio's frequency, mode,
and such, displaying them on the screen.? The car's display is FAR
more visible, and with the Pi I can run other radio-related apps
such as YAAC for an APRS map.
Greg? KO6TH
Michael Davis via groups.io wrote:
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Show quoted text
Hi, my non ND 817 display is fine, but 2 color backlighting
isn’t very helpful in low light. I see a $42.88 external CAT
display device, 12864 on Ali Express, but very little info. I’m
not skilled enough to do any mods, but a plug and play,
inexpensive option would be nice. For now, I’m experimenting
with an external, soft white, pico LED to illuminate the screen
from the front. Kind of like a reading book light. Anyone using
this or other device? Thanks
|
Larger/brighter Display option
Hi, my non ND 817 display is fine, but 2 color backlighting isn’t very helpful in low light. I see a $42.88 external CAT display device, 12864 on Ali Express, but very little info. I’m not skilled enough to do any mods, but a plug and play, inexpensive option would be nice. For now, I’m experimenting with an external, soft white, pico LED to illuminate the screen from the front. Kind of like a reading book light. Anyone using this or other device? Thanks
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Re: FT817ND Front Panel PCB replacement - Blinking display
Hi Robin,
?
Thanks for the response.
?
Yes, I was trying to follow the alignment procedure from the service manual as far as I could.? I have a number of manuals but I'm using the one which covers all FT817, FT817ND, and FT818 which I presume is the most up to date (2019 - E137790K).? The older version doesn't seem to be any different (2005 - E137790B) which seems to be the one you are refering to.?
?
The unlock signal (UL) is on pin 15 of J4002 and goes to the CPU on pin 17.? It arises at pin 1 on J2002 of the PLL unit and actually passes through pin 36 of J1008 on the main board.
I have tested continuity throughout its length and it seem to be fine.?
With the old front panel (which locks) this line is at 5v whereas with the new one it is at 25mV (essentially 0 v).? So I think the signal is getting through, but unfortunately the correct signal is not being produced.
?
I think that I need to look at two sets of lines related to the PLL.? What I presume are frequency related FSTB, FD, FCK, and those that are phase related (maybe) PSTB, PD, PCK, and I guess in addition the VSTB (voltage?).? I am not clear on what these all do but I can compare them in the locked and unlocked state to see how they differ.? At least I may have more info to go on - how to interpret it or fix any problem is another matter.? I'll keep trying.
?
Regards,
David
?
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Re: FT817ND Front Panel PCB replacement - Blinking display
David,
1) Do you have a copy of the service manual? That's
pretty much essential for what you are trying to do.
2) Given that the PLL, as noted below, seems to lock with the
original front panel, that could indicate that the unlock signal
(UL) on pin 18 of J4002 on the panel, sent from pin 33 of J1008 on
the main board, is not getting through.
3) The PLL adjustments are covered on pages 16 & 17 of the
service manual, and the circuit is very briefly described on page
12.
Good luck,
Robin, G8DQX
On 14/12/2024 14:47, David via
groups.io wrote:
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I have just replaced the front panel PCB on a friends FT817ND
(Lot82).
I had called Yaesu UK and the told me that the board was
compatible (CS1909409).
?
It was a straightforward replacement except for desoldering
the AF-SQL/RF pot.?
I had to snip the pins of the old connector to remove it but
I do not believe that I damaged the pot and it seems to test ok.
On powering up the LCD screen display blinks and there is no
audio.? I am able to change frequency, mode, etc and all buttons
and dials seem to work.? However, the ?AF-SQL/RF pot does
nothing.
Searching the web I am told that this is clasical of the PLL
not locking.
?
I plugged in the original board and this seems to lock (PLL
wise).? I have no screen (reason for replacement) but using
'FT817 Commander' software I can 'see' the frequency, mode etc
and all seems to be well on the receive front.? Audio is
working.? The radio shuts down when I try to transmit but this
may be RF getting in somewhere it shouldn't (the whole radio is
out of its container).
?
I obtained all the parameters from the service menu on the
original board and programmed it into the new one hoping that
this was the answer.? No difference.
I presumed that I would have to do a full alignment and I
started this.? I did not get very far:-
?
Reference Frequency Adjustment - No problem - freq and
voltage fine.
?
VCO VCV Adjustment - voltage wrong and not adjustable as PLL
not locked.
?
PLL "Unlock" Display alert - unplugging the Ref Unit the
voltage is 5mV on J2002 (pin1) but no change in the display.?
The voltage is 25mV with the unit replaced.
?
2nd Local Adjustment - No problem
?
3rd Local Adjustment - not possible as no transmit
?
And thats as far as I got.
?
Am I missing something?? Is this board really compatible?
Is there something specific that I need to alter (pot,menu
item etc) to allow the PLL to lock.
?
Any help gratefully received. Thanks.
?
Best wishes,
David G7IBO
?
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FT817ND Front Panel PCB replacement - Blinking display
I have just replaced the front panel PCB on a friends FT817ND (Lot82).
I had called Yaesu UK and the told me that the board was compatible (CS1909409).
?
It was a straightforward replacement except for desoldering the AF-SQL/RF pot.?
I had to snip the pins of the old connector to remove it but I do not believe that I damaged the pot and it seems to test ok.
On powering up the LCD screen display blinks and there is no audio.? I am able to change frequency, mode, etc and all buttons and dials seem to work.? However, the ?AF-SQL/RF pot does nothing.
Searching the web I am told that this is clasical of the PLL not locking.
?
I plugged in the original board and this seems to lock (PLL wise).? I have no screen (reason for replacement) but using 'FT817 Commander' software I can 'see' the frequency, mode etc and all seems to be well on the receive front.? Audio is working.? The radio shuts down when I try to transmit but this may be RF getting in somewhere it shouldn't (the whole radio is out of its container).
?
I obtained all the parameters from the service menu on the original board and programmed it into the new one hoping that this was the answer.? No difference.
I presumed that I would have to do a full alignment and I started this.? I did not get very far:-
?
Reference Frequency Adjustment - No problem - freq and voltage fine.
?
VCO VCV Adjustment - voltage wrong and not adjustable as PLL not locked.
?
PLL "Unlock" Display alert - unplugging the Ref Unit the voltage is 5mV on J2002 (pin1) but no change in the display.? The voltage is 25mV with the unit replaced.
?
2nd Local Adjustment - No problem
?
3rd Local Adjustment - not possible as no transmit
?
And thats as far as I got.
?
Am I missing something?? Is this board really compatible?
Is there something specific that I need to alter (pot,menu item etc) to allow the PLL to lock.
?
Any help gratefully received. Thanks.
?
Best wishes,
David G7IBO
?
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Re: FT-817 almost powers up
Update - With the main PCB completely removed from the radio chassis and a jumper installed across Q1082, I was able to see good 9v, 6v, and 5v lines. ?From there, I installed the front panel unit ribbon cable and observed good 5V and 13US on the front panel PCB. ?I followed 13US back to vreg Q4013 and Q4014 which both had a good 5v on the output.
?
The front panel LED D4009, TX and Busy hang off the output of Q4013, so if you're seeing this illuminated like I am, you could assume 13US is reaching the front panel.
?
There are some signals directly from the CPU I need to chase around when I get the time. ?For now, I'm just going to let the radio finish its charge cycle with the Q1082 jumper removed and no batteries installed. ?Maybe the CPU is stuck in a weird state that the factory reset couldn't clear.
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Re: WHATSON 3A Power Supply
Providing the Watson 13V at 3A, and 5A peak, power supply is a linear one with a black case and two screw trerminals on the front panel, then it SHOULD be the same as I have to run my FT-817 or other low power rigs.
I also use several of these to power various parts of the computer network around the house. They generate no switching noise and at 2.5A peak they only get moderately warm.
These Watson PSU's can be susceptible to RF interference, I found out this when an old mobile telephone going off close by caused the output voltage to jump around. Since then I've fitted a long (~10mm) ferrite bead on each wire going to the output terminals and a 1nF capacitor from each terminal to chassis, to every one of these to pass through my shack.
If the 'finger type' terminal-turret screws get loose and one tries to replace them with european ones, ones finds the chassis holes are too big. I've instead filed out the holes in the panel and fitted short pieces of barrier strip,?
?
Just make sure the voltage output is set at at between 12.5-13V and stays there, with only a small droop (~0.2V) occuring at top loads.
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Re: FT-817 almost powers up
I know this is kinda a long shot here, but Bill W1PA, were you able to solve the problem with your radio?? I have one here with the exact same problem as yours.
?
Plugging in the power results in a black display that's trying to show "CHG TIME RMN" with a count down timer.? Orange status LED lit.? Pressing power increases current draw from the supply and the radio won't start.? Un-plugging power and re-applying it restarts the cycle.
?
So far I've found fuse F1002 open, but looking at the schematic, that shouldn't cause it to not turn on as it only supplies power to the filer/ PA assembly.? A replacement fuse is on the way.
?
I've also observed the emitter of Q1082 while pressing the power switch.? The voltage jumps to 13US, then immediately drops to around 2v.? Jumping 13US over to the emitter and forcing it on doesn't do much except make a relay click on the filter board; display still black, CHG TIME RMN with a counter still sorta visible with a flashlight.
?
I'll check the 5, 6, and 9V rails when I replace the fuse later this week.
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Re: FT-817 +DSP +new finals FOR SALE
Pictures, please. Very interested.
--
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FT-817 +DSP +new finals FOR SALE
Nice clean FT-817 (non D) FOR SALE
Includes:
* Ft-817. (Non D)
* New Final Amplifier board with new factory installed final transistors
* bhi NEDSP106 DSP super clean noise reduction
* Narrow CW filter (500Hz maybe 300Hz can’t remember)
* Collins Mechanical 2.3KHz SSB filter
* MH-31 Microphone with up/down & fast buttons
* Power Pole dc input adapter
* Wire Bail stand
* VHF/UHF Flexible Antenna BNC
* Stubby BNC VHF/UHF Antenna
* FT-817 Pack-It Reference Manual (this is the real bible)
* Nifty Mini-Manual
* Original Leather Case and Shoulder-Strap
Checked out 80 - 10 Meter HF and 2M/440MHz this evening. The 8-step bhi DSP noise reduction really shines with todays QRN.?
?
Asking $825 insured & shipped USPS Priority Mail with tracking.
Postal money order or PayPal please.?
John Arnold, WA6YSY
Contact me off forum johna@...
Will list on our favorite sale site in a couple weeks if no interest.?
?
?
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I only adjust the finals. Will check driver bias also.
As metioned before: it is FT817 frame with complete new FT818 interioer.
There might be a lot to adjust also...
cheers Ray
Am 21.11.2024 um 02:46 schrieb Dave Mueller AA3EE via groups.io:
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John, are you adjusting bias for driver and finals, or just the
finals? If it's just the finals, you'd normally set the second pot for
twice the current, or 84mA.? I realize it's a small difference, but
balance is important.
Dave
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John, are you adjusting bias for driver and finals, or just the finals? If it's just the finals, you'd normally set the second pot for twice the current, or 84mA.? I realize it's a small difference, but balance is important.
Dave
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hi Ken
after replacing every board in my old FT-817 by brand new ft-818 boards (see in this group)
I could set current to the FINAL UNIT as mentioned.
BUT no power out at all. Carrier is ok... Receiving is ok on front / rear socket...
Should use the scope to see whats going on. Frustrating....
cheers - Ray, DL1EGR
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Re: Power output instable
Gavin, thanks for posting this on your experience with the battery pack issue and destruction of the finals, I have never used a battery pack in my 2001 ft817 and it still has the original finals putting out full power. I will never run an internal pack. This is a fantastic group, every one helping each other. Vy 73? Rick VE1RNM
On Tue., Nov. 19, 2024, 5:05 a.m. Pietro Molina via , <pietro= [email protected]> wrote: A lot thanks, Al.
?
It solved for me: I switched a dozen of times between 6m (rear antenna) and 2m (front antenna) and it solved. I hope forever, but I'm not confident; however I know what I have to look for.
?
Pietro I2OIM
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Re: MRW-HF100 antenna set
Per the OP (!) the MRW-HF100s are base loaded whips not dissimilar to the majority of garden variety CB radio whip (and I have to slot Elecraft's spendy examples in the same category.) In resonating the random length telescopic whip, much of the useful current is swallowed up by the base loading coil which will either be lossy, not so lossy or extremely lossy. The query really should be about the extent of the loss in those coils which I'm not able to answer, but looking at their lengths and diameter, I'd hazzard a guess that they are not of the most efficient type.
?
I was tempted by this antenna too, but head had to rule heart and take the view that as being ?100 better put towards something else. Perhaps if they'd slash the price I'd buy it out of curiosity in the full knowledge of what I was entering into, but (eg) an Icom 7300 at- what- I don't know, ?1300 (probably less?) against that antenna for ?100? It just doesn't add up. This accusation could easily be levelled at any number of ham radio peripheral doo-hickeys.
?
The best approach is the "glass half full" one- which is to eschew WSPR and to judge it against the number of contacts made which upsets the folks reading eHam reviews so much, but it is at least practical. What's the point of knowing the "Q" value of those coils to several decimal places if you can get a few contacts? (if!)
?
Knock up a re-configurable "L" match and throw out some wire!
--
Steve, G4VRR.
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Re: Power output instable
A lot thanks, Al.
?
It solved for me: I switched a dozen of times between 6m (rear antenna) and 2m (front antenna) and it solved. I hope forever, but I'm not confident; however I know what I have to look for.
?
Pietro I2OIM
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Re: MRW-HF100 antenna set
On Sun, Nov 17, 2024 at 03:34 PM, Al WB9UVJ wrote:
Radials on the ground or in the ground cannot be made resonant due to the
effects of the earth to detune those conductors.? The rule of thumb is to
have as many radials on/in the ground as you can afford or have space for.?
Ground conductivity affects/interacts with the radial system too.? Many
operators start with 16 radials but often find that 32 or even 64 provide
better efficiency.? As you increase the number of radials, you increase the Q
of the antenna system by lowering the resistance (think resistors in parallel)
in the resonant circuit of the antenna.
Yes, though if you are in a very wet location one earth spike might do.
Only radials that are in air, above the ground, can be resonant.
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Re: MRW-HF100 antenna set
On Sun, Nov 17, 2024 at 12:00 AM, Glenn Little wrote:
Properly single point grounded sites suffer minimal damage because of the
single point ground.
A multi point grounded system invites lightning damage.
Assuming mast or skyscraper grade lightning conductor. Most of us don't have that, so one or several earths is moot.
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Re: MRW-HF100 antenna set
Antenna ground or counterpoise isn't the same than house ground/earth neither serves the same purpose. A counterpoise (grounded or not) is used to avoid returning RF towards the rig via balancing the antenna and is dependent of its design. What you're doing is using the house wiring in the hope that it'll become an RF sink but at same time you're adding all that wiring to the antenna. That may pick not only all the electrical noise of any posible derivation in the circuit but also letting it act as a -presumibly- huge antenna picking up whatever is around. It just happens that that also goes to the receiver. Counterpoise length should be stated or suggested in the manual, On Friday, November 15 2024, 14:32:21, John G0GCD via groups.io wrote: Not FT817 directly, but I intend to use the kit with it.
The instructions say that best performance is had with a ground or a counterpoise. Just for fun, I tried the house ground and that's
extremely noisy. Any recommendations for a suitable length of counterpoise?
The intended use is on the dining table of any holiday let we stay in.. so it'll need to snake around the room, I think.
Also, any feedback on how well these antenna kits work? Anything is better than nothing but the vendor feedback has an equal
balance of (very) good and (very) bad reviews.
Thanks
John G0GCD
-- The less you know, the sounder you sleep. --- Russian proverb
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Michael Davis
David
John, WA6YSY
Raimund Reh
Steve
Pietro Molina
Mike EI9FEB