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In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
ROTFLOL
I think this YouTube video does an excellent job:?https://youtu.be/AC9mBotnoBg
Yikes!?
A board for the jig wider than your work so you can setup some stop blocks or a fence??
You're welcome. Good luck!?
Kind regards,?
Jonathan?
|
SLR saw for sure. Doesn't your buddy have one? Most people who have a moulder do. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 23, 2021, at 12:32 AM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote: ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Glen,?
Are you getting S1S? I buy my quantity lumber at minimum 1-side straightlined and hit-and-miss planed. Plus I find I can stack it easier and the price is insignificant compared?to the confidence I get in better yield per board.?
Having had to do 16'+ length T+G recently myself, I opted this method (mind you one side was bought straight-lined already):
1. Use expanding roller tables on outfeed?side to carry the long boards off the saw.?
2. Use flat tables on my rolling carts to support infeed so it didn't sag/bow
3. HAND FEED right side of the blade with rip fence. The riving knife?protecting the boards after the cut.
4. Don't worry about saw kerf marks, when processing the T or G, the cutters clean them off anyway.?
5. Stand board on edge to verify plane.
6. Repeat.
7.?
Handling 16'+ boards around slider clamps, ceiling heights, over-saw dust shrouds, and possibly having to flip them when you realized you lined them up wrong will get very tedious after the 2nd board. Then carrying them to and from the stack.You will then say to yourself "there's got to be a better way".
BETTER METHOD:
1. If you have a Festool track saw and enough track (or a jig) to make the length, use it. In a pinch I've used metal studs clamped together or a stick or Timberstrand LSL, way cheaper than Festool rails if you need to be creative, but it won't demonstrate where the cut will be before you cut it like the guide rails, so you might want to make a set of guide blocks to aid setup if you go that route.
2. It's not really "better quality" than your slider, but it's acceptable and way easier steps. You can basically slide one board off the side of the stack enough to clear the kerf, chop it, and side-slide it into a new stack, maybe even leaving the whole mess on your trailer without fully unloading or having to pick up the weight of a full board.
3. Drive to the buddie's house, with a case of beer for you and him.
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Glen,?
You might check what a local lumberyard would charge to straight line rip. My vendor in Oklahoma City charges $0.08 a board foot to straight line. It's hard to beat that price.?
Jarrett?
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021, 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Hi Glen Why not just joint them than batch a bunch together and plane to width or let the moulder do it. We I assume are just talking 16¡¯ 1¡± and less than 25# a price ?even if 2¡± not so much so no big deal. Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 23, 2021, at 6:16 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran
On Mar 23, 2021, at 12:32 AM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
a basic 22n will do all 4 in one pass Designing and building for 50 years
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On Mar 23, 2021, at 4:53 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? SLR saw for sure. Doesn't your buddy have one? Most people who have a moulder do. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Brett,
Have you used a sled for SLR?
I would do may be 3 to 5 boards with track saw but sled comes out for higher qty. No contest for over 100 boards Glen is looking at.
Getting them S1S is definitely a big time saver but I have my stash of air dried lumber. Since K975 I have not used sled, which is great.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 23, 2021, at 9:13 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Glen,?
Are you getting S1S? I buy my quantity lumber at minimum 1-side straightlined and hit-and-miss planed. Plus I find I can stack it easier and the price is insignificant compared?to the confidence I get in better yield per board.?
Having had to do 16'+ length T+G recently myself, I opted this method (mind you one side was bought straight-lined already):
1. Use expanding roller tables on outfeed?side to carry the long boards off the saw.?
2. Use flat tables on my rolling carts to support infeed so it didn't sag/bow
3. HAND FEED right side of the blade with rip fence. The riving knife?protecting the boards after the cut.
4. Don't worry about saw kerf marks, when processing the T or G, the cutters clean them off anyway.?
5. Stand board on edge to verify plane.
6. Repeat.
7.?
Handling 16'+ boards around slider clamps, ceiling heights, over-saw dust shrouds, and possibly having to flip them when you realized you lined them up wrong will get very tedious after the 2nd board. Then carrying them to and from the stack.You will then say to yourself "there's got to be a better way".
BETTER METHOD:
1. If you have a Festool track saw and enough track (or a jig) to make the length, use it. In a pinch I've used metal studs clamped together or a stick or Timberstrand LSL, way cheaper than Festool rails if you need to be creative, but it won't demonstrate where the cut will be before you cut it like the guide rails, so you might want to make a set of guide blocks to aid setup if you go that route.
2. It's not really "better quality" than your slider, but it's acceptable and way easier steps. You can basically slide one board off the side of the stack enough to clear the kerf, chop it, and side-slide it into a new stack, maybe even leaving the whole mess on your trailer without fully unloading or having to pick up the weight of a full board.
3. Drive to the buddie's house, with a case of beer for you and him. On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Imran,?
I've not used the SLR sled in the earlier reference mostly because I don't like taking time to make jigs if I can just get the job done some other way. I'm not in a position to argue it's effectiveness, rather offering another set of points for consideration. Despite the fact using a slider is fantastic, it's still not always the only answer.?
In my referenced job recently I had to dimension and mill angles on all 4 corners and do some squirrelly?stuff to match and splice into an existing build. I tried to hand feed first just to see if it would pass muster, and discovered that it worked great. I forget myself to give credit to the fact that a $20k+ saw is one heck of a hand-feed right-side-of-the-blade machine too. ;)
But I HATED having to flip the boards 2 different ways for the miter-tilt to accommodate and running the boards through 4 different passes. Just handling the boards was a huge pain. I can't imagine doing it for 150+ boards, my shoulders are already in shape from stripping and carrying doors and furniture all day but I felt the handing of just doing 10 or so boards, 4 times through each, flipping and spinning. Glen's a good guy, I'd speak up to him to spare any pain possible!
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 8:40 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brett,
Have you used a sled for SLR?
I would do may be 3 to 5 boards with track saw but sled comes out for higher qty. No contest for over 100 boards Glen is looking at.
Getting them S1S is definitely a big time saver but I have my stash of air dried lumber. Since K975 I have not used sled, which is great.
Imran ? Glen,?
Are you getting S1S? I buy my quantity lumber at minimum 1-side straightlined and hit-and-miss planed. Plus I find I can stack it easier and the price is insignificant compared?to the confidence I get in better yield per board.?
Having had to do 16'+ length T+G recently myself, I opted this method (mind you one side was bought straight-lined already):
1. Use expanding roller tables on outfeed?side to carry the long boards off the saw.?
2. Use flat tables on my rolling carts to support infeed so it didn't sag/bow
3. HAND FEED right side of the blade with rip fence. The riving knife?protecting the boards after the cut.
4. Don't worry about saw kerf marks, when processing the T or G, the cutters clean them off anyway.?
5. Stand board on edge to verify plane.
6. Repeat.
7.?
Handling 16'+ boards around slider clamps, ceiling heights, over-saw dust shrouds, and possibly having to flip them when you realized you lined them up wrong will get very tedious after the 2nd board. Then carrying them to and from the stack.You will then say to yourself "there's got to be a better way".
BETTER METHOD:
1. If you have a Festool track saw and enough track (or a jig) to make the length, use it. In a pinch I've used metal studs clamped together or a stick or Timberstrand LSL, way cheaper than Festool rails if you need to be creative, but it won't demonstrate where the cut will be before you cut it like the guide rails, so you might want to make a set of guide blocks to aid setup if you go that route.
2. It's not really "better quality" than your slider, but it's acceptable and way easier steps. You can basically slide one board off the side of the stack enough to clear the kerf, chop it, and side-slide it into a new stack, maybe even leaving the whole mess on your trailer without fully unloading or having to pick up the weight of a full board.
3. Drive to the buddie's house, with a case of beer for you and him. On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Hi Brett,
That is fair. I just asked because I have done both and I find sled efficient and easier. However, I am far from being an expert on anything. I am in awe of you and others who routinely handle a vast variety of jobs. So I always inquire when I read something that does not match my experience because I could be doing something wrong or not as efficiently as possible.
Imran
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On Mar 23, 2021, at 9:55 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote: ? Imran,?
I've not used the SLR sled in the earlier reference mostly because I don't like taking time to make jigs if I can just get the job done some other way. I'm not in a position to argue it's effectiveness, rather offering another set of points for consideration. Despite the fact using a slider is fantastic, it's still not always the only answer.?
In my referenced job recently I had to dimension and mill angles on all 4 corners and do some squirrelly?stuff to match and splice into an existing build. I tried to hand feed first just to see if it would pass muster, and discovered that it worked great. I forget myself to give credit to the fact that a $20k+ saw is one heck of a hand-feed right-side-of-the-blade machine too. ;)
But I HATED having to flip the boards 2 different ways for the miter-tilt to accommodate and running the boards through 4 different passes. Just handling the boards was a huge pain. I can't imagine doing it for 150+ boards, my shoulders are already in shape from stripping and carrying doors and furniture all day but I felt the handing of just doing 10 or so boards, 4 times through each, flipping and spinning. Glen's a good guy, I'd speak up to him to spare any pain possible! On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 8:40 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brett,
Have you used a sled for SLR?
I would do may be 3 to 5 boards with track saw but sled comes out for higher qty. No contest for over 100 boards Glen is looking at.
Getting them S1S is definitely a big time saver but I have my stash of air dried lumber. Since K975 I have not used sled, which is great.
Imran ? Glen,?
Are you getting S1S? I buy my quantity lumber at minimum 1-side straightlined and hit-and-miss planed. Plus I find I can stack it easier and the price is insignificant compared?to the confidence I get in better yield per board.?
Having had to do 16'+ length T+G recently myself, I opted this method (mind you one side was bought straight-lined already):
1. Use expanding roller tables on outfeed?side to carry the long boards off the saw.?
2. Use flat tables on my rolling carts to support infeed so it didn't sag/bow
3. HAND FEED right side of the blade with rip fence. The riving knife?protecting the boards after the cut.
4. Don't worry about saw kerf marks, when processing the T or G, the cutters clean them off anyway.?
5. Stand board on edge to verify plane.
6. Repeat.
7.?
Handling 16'+ boards around slider clamps, ceiling heights, over-saw dust shrouds, and possibly having to flip them when you realized you lined them up wrong will get very tedious after the 2nd board. Then carrying them to and from the stack.You will then say to yourself "there's got to be a better way".
BETTER METHOD:
1. If you have a Festool track saw and enough track (or a jig) to make the length, use it. In a pinch I've used metal studs clamped together or a stick or Timberstrand LSL, way cheaper than Festool rails if you need to be creative, but it won't demonstrate where the cut will be before you cut it like the guide rails, so you might want to make a set of guide blocks to aid setup if you go that route.
2. It's not really "better quality" than your slider, but it's acceptable and way easier steps. You can basically slide one board off the side of the stack enough to clear the kerf, chop it, and side-slide it into a new stack, maybe even leaving the whole mess on your trailer without fully unloading or having to pick up the weight of a full board.
3. Drive to the buddie's house, with a case of beer for you and him. On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Hi Glen,
?
As far as T&G is concerned the surprise for me has been that even with hundreds of $ invested in pressure modules they do not guarantee that the board does not move away from the fence. I have only done 8¡¯ to 12¡¯ lengths in any qty and despite trying to keep an eye on it I still find boards that moved away from fence near trailing edge. This is with 2 pressure modules. I use 4 wheeler in middle straddling fences and 2 wheeler on outfeed. No scientific study but I suspect this is likely to happen more with longer boards where a good part is unsupported by the fence.
?
Solution is outboard fence. I have not tried it but some here have and seem satisfied. Now that I have a dedicated shaper I plan to try it at the next opportunity.
?
Imran
On Mar 23, 2021, at 12:32 AM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Thanks Jonathan, That's kinda of what I envisioned, I do like the clap idea , That was my next question Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 12:04 AM Jonathan Martens < jonathan@...> wrote:
ROTFLOL
I think this YouTube video does an excellent job:?
Yikes!?
A board for the jig wider than your work so you can setup some stop blocks or a fence??
You're welcome. Good luck!?
Kind regards,?
Jonathan?
|
Lason, He does but since he is doing this to help me get the job, I really don't want to take his time for straightening . I really would like to try it on the saw but I might change my mind after 20 or so boards. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 2:53 AM Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote: SLR saw for sure. Doesn't your buddy have one? Most people who have a moulder do. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Brett, TypicallyI get the same as you but in this case its all in the rough. I dont think handling will be to hard in my case as I can fork lift the unit in behind the saw, I have adjustable carts that I can put one on each end to support the sled and park the forklift on the out feed side to stack directly on then spin the pile and repeat the process. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
Glen,?
Are you getting S1S? I buy my quantity lumber at minimum 1-side straightlined and hit-and-miss planed. Plus I find I can stack it easier and the price is insignificant compared?to the confidence I get in better yield per board.?
Having had to do 16'+ length T+G recently myself, I opted this method (mind you one side was bought straight-lined already):
1. Use expanding roller tables on outfeed?side to carry the long boards off the saw.?
2. Use flat tables on my rolling carts to support infeed so it didn't sag/bow
3. HAND FEED right side of the blade with rip fence. The riving knife?protecting the boards after the cut.
4. Don't worry about saw kerf marks, when processing the T or G, the cutters clean them off anyway.?
5. Stand board on edge to verify plane.
6. Repeat.
7.?
Handling 16'+ boards around slider clamps, ceiling heights, over-saw dust shrouds, and possibly having to flip them when you realized you lined them up wrong will get very tedious after the 2nd board. Then carrying them to and from the stack.You will then say to yourself "there's got to be a better way".
BETTER METHOD:
1. If you have a Festool track saw and enough track (or a jig) to make the length, use it. In a pinch I've used metal studs clamped together or a stick or Timberstrand LSL, way cheaper than Festool rails if you need to be creative, but it won't demonstrate where the cut will be before you cut it like the guide rails, so you might want to make a set of guide blocks to aid setup if you go that route.
2. It's not really "better quality" than your slider, but it's acceptable and way easier steps. You can basically slide one board off the side of the stack enough to clear the kerf, chop it, and side-slide it into a new stack, maybe even leaving the whole mess on your trailer without fully unloading or having to pick up the weight of a full board.
3. Drive to the buddie's house, with a case of beer for you and him.
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
--
Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Jarrett , Thanks for that idea, I am sure my wholesaler might do it and if it is around 8 cents there is no point of me doing it Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:13 AM Jarrett Maxwell < j.a.max7@...> wrote: Glen,?
You might check what a local lumberyard would charge to straight line rip. My vendor in Oklahoma City charges $0.08 a board foot to straight line. It's hard to beat that price.?
Jarrett?
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021, 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Mac I don't think I could joint a 16 ft board and get it straight and it would take multiple passes. I do use that technique when i am making stiles and rails and the like.
I like the N22 idea, I will add that to my next machine order, I guess I should Get the machine to make the knives too. Any chance you could swing by and show me how to use? it? Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:39 AM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: a basic 22n will do all 4 in one pass Designing and building for 50 years On Mar 23, 2021, at 4:53 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
? SLR saw for sure. Doesn't your buddy have one? Most people who have a moulder do. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 24, 2021, at 3:59 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote: ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Hi Irman, I kinda wanted to do the tslot version to eliminate lift issues, But I get your point that it will be harder to insert. I wanted to screw from the bottom but that is going to be hard but maybe putting the board in the slot and pinning the plywood to it and screw from the bottom as it comes out of the slider? I see one major problem is that to get a good thickness on the wood strip, It will hit my push handle on the slider. I hate to hack out a notch in it but I think I am going to have too. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 1:14 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: ? Glen,
For insert, I used Sycamore as I had it around. Not sure if you are going to do anti lift design or not. Here is what mine look like
For 16¡¯ you probably just want straight insert that can be dropped. As for installing, just lay inserts in the slider and place the sled on top ensuring blade side is past the blade. Secure sled in this position and screw from top. When you run it thru blade first time you will have the zero clearance edge to align lumber with.
Imran ? Thank you Imran for sharing how you built yours
I just glued 2 3/4" panels of CDX with biscuits? to make 12' ply for my arch form. I was quite surprised how well it worked.
I was going to try the same for the sled and come up with some kind of stiffener. I just ordered the clamps as in the video and was planing to put on three. Cut that slot I think I am going to have to laminate another 1/2"board on the bottom. If i don't carry it around flat I think it will hold together. What material did you use for the insert? I was going to go hard maple but my last batch was all over the place so I am not sure how straight I can get it to stay put. And how to set a 16' strip with any accuracy.
Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 4:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
|
Jonathan Martens
Jason Holtz
imran