Re: Straightlining lumber
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Imran,?
I've not used the SLR sled in the earlier reference mostly because I don't like taking time to make jigs if I can just get the job done some other way. I'm not in a position to argue it's effectiveness, rather offering another set of points for consideration. Despite the fact using a slider is fantastic, it's still not always the only answer.?
In my referenced job recently I had to dimension and mill angles on all 4 corners and do some squirrelly?stuff to match and splice into an existing build. I tried to hand feed first just to see if it would pass muster, and discovered that it worked great. I forget myself to give credit to the fact that a $20k+ saw is one heck of a hand-feed right-side-of-the-blade machine too. ;)
But I HATED having to flip the boards 2 different ways for the miter-tilt to accommodate and running the boards through 4 different passes. Just handling the boards was a huge pain. I can't imagine doing it for 150+ boards, my shoulders are already in shape from stripping and carrying doors and furniture all day but I felt the handing of just doing 10 or so boards, 4 times through each, flipping and spinning. Glen's a good guy, I'd speak up to him to spare any pain possible!
On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 8:40 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brett,
Have you used a sled for SLR?
I would do may be 3 to 5 boards with track saw but sled comes out for higher qty. No contest for over 100 boards Glen is looking at.
Getting them S1S is definitely a big time saver but I have my stash of air dried lumber. Since K975 I have not used sled, which is great.
Imran ? Glen,?
Are you getting S1S? I buy my quantity lumber at minimum 1-side straightlined and hit-and-miss planed. Plus I find I can stack it easier and the price is insignificant compared?to the confidence I get in better yield per board.?
Having had to do 16'+ length T+G recently myself, I opted this method (mind you one side was bought straight-lined already):
1. Use expanding roller tables on outfeed?side to carry the long boards off the saw.?
2. Use flat tables on my rolling carts to support infeed so it didn't sag/bow
3. HAND FEED right side of the blade with rip fence. The riving knife?protecting the boards after the cut.
4. Don't worry about saw kerf marks, when processing the T or G, the cutters clean them off anyway.?
5. Stand board on edge to verify plane.
6. Repeat.
7.?
Handling 16'+ boards around slider clamps, ceiling heights, over-saw dust shrouds, and possibly having to flip them when you realized you lined them up wrong will get very tedious after the 2nd board. Then carrying them to and from the stack.You will then say to yourself "there's got to be a better way".
BETTER METHOD:
1. If you have a Festool track saw and enough track (or a jig) to make the length, use it. In a pinch I've used metal studs clamped together or a stick or Timberstrand LSL, way cheaper than Festool rails if you need to be creative, but it won't demonstrate where the cut will be before you cut it like the guide rails, so you might want to make a set of guide blocks to aid setup if you go that route.
2. It's not really "better quality" than your slider, but it's acceptable and way easier steps. You can basically slide one board off the side of the stack enough to clear the kerf, chop it, and side-slide it into a new stack, maybe even leaving the whole mess on your trailer without fully unloading or having to pick up the weight of a full board.
3. Drive to the buddie's house, with a case of beer for you and him. On Tue, Mar 23, 2021 at 6:16 AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Glen,
The video Jonathan shared shows how to make one. I would add few observations from my use of one.
First I made mine with thin ply on each side of 1/2¡± spacers. Being 12¡¯ long I added 4¡¯ length on opposing ends so the joint is offset. I believe it is 3/4¡± thick but not sure if it would be substantially stiffer if I used 1¡± thick wood between plys. It is about 14¡± wide. I do have two ~2¡± wide continuous runs of wood (lengthwise) between plys that line up with 2 slots in the slider.
People with short slider like 76¡± on my KF700 may benefit from having the runner that is captured in slider slot, that is how I did mine. It prevents the sled from lifting but down side is that you have to thread the sled in the slot as opposed to just dropping it down.
Working alone with long pieces it helps to have a stop block screwed on the leading end with a nail in it. I push end grain of the board into nail to fix that end and then move to the trailing end to adjust it without having the leading end move on me.
Now that I have 10¡¯ slider, there is not a great chance of lifting besides 16¡¯ sled is too long to thread.?I will likely experiment with a fixed runner secured in the slider and make sled out of solid material as apposed to box construction of my current sled. One advantage is that it is easier to support the sled with flat bottom (runner not attached to the bottom of the sled). You will need to support the sled if it goes 3¡¯ (just a guess but there about) or more off of the slider. For this reason I lock my slider in middle so support stands stay in one place as sled is moved.
The advantage of solid board vs my box construction is that one can use the dovetail hold downs as shown in video. My original hold downs were just scraps of wood holding down the long edge not being cut. I later added Kreg hold downs with a captured T bolt that is recessed into the bottom surface of sled. With 2 sets of T bolt holes I can handle narrow and wide boards.
Imran ?In my great ability to take on jobs that are over my head, I got a new one today.
I am going to run 2400 of T&G siding. coming to the conclusion that try to do this is going to be down right impossible with my tools my fellow woodworking buddy will run it for me if I pay him for the knives a hundred bucks for wear and tear on the machine and a case of beer. So i need to straight line material before i take it over and I recall that you all make a sled to run longer material than the slider. If I am correct on this , could some of you share a picture of what you built so I can wrap my head around it. My slider is 10 ft and the boards are 16 ft. There is onl 150 of them.
Then what would be the best way to slice the oppisite side?
Thank You all as always.
Glen
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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