开云体育

I feel your pain on the drawer fronts Glen! I've remade a couple things this week already and it's only Monday... Our shop is in Minnesota. It's very humid here in the summer, and even though we have

While on the topic, what causes the water build up? is it the compressor , the temp in and outside the building or humidity. I was going to put in an air dryer but haven't yet, and I just checked my

David, Your drops look almost identical to ours. We did install a refrigerated air dryer as well because in the summer we still have excessive water build up. Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307

Nice, When I do my copper lines I was thinking of doing an “s” shape with a drip leg at the bottom to allow the air to cool from the compressor and allow it to condensate, anyone try that? Worth

Heath Kits ? I loved those as a kid. My Dad finally had to buy me my own soldering gun because I always had his in my room. Made many things with those. Maybe that's why I like doing it. That brings

I’m not quite understanding your email. What DRO functions do you want? As Dave stated, we make a DRO flipstop, and DRO parallel fences. If you are looking for rip fence, it’s too easy to make

I used type L copper piping/fittings with 50/50 solder which will flow easily with propane torch. Silver solder is for drinking water applications and requires higher heat like Mapp gas. Like Glen, I

Michael Brian Lamb makes one https://lambtoolworks.com/dro-flipstop or you can make your own with a Fiama DRO head [image: image.png] Dave Davies wrote: -- Dave & Marie Davies www.myfinishingtouch.com

Joe, I am a firm believer in copper. I ran 1" from the compressor to the DC and 3/4 everywhere else. I did slope all my lines to condensate drains but so far I have not had any water build up. I

Imran they aren't really stuck with the tooling it's just there is better tooling for certain cuts as I have pointed out. This isn't something you are going to get from most sales people or the

Another vote for PEX - easy to install, fewest joints, hasn't developed any leaks since install 10 years ago. John Stevenson

I used Parker Hannifin rubber push loc 801-6-blk. Rated for 350 pounds in 3/8 with their brass fittings. I am really happy with how it turned out, easy install, no leaks and easy to cut in a “T”

That's very true.. you don't want to rip with a 100 tooth blade..lol I was referring something like cross cutting or a procedure where a blade with a higher tooth count would cut cleaner over a blade

Well for ripping more teeth is not the right direction. I asked the question regarding chip evacuation vs more cuts/in because people who are stuck with $1100 in dado tooling may be able to get better

Decided to go with the 500 professional. The digital readouts I’ll have three phase, unless I want to wait 4 to 5 months for a new build. I don’t want to deal with $1500-$3000 phase converter’s

For once, I’m in complete alignment with John on this topic. I’ve put copper in all my shops and wouldn’t use anything else. David Best - via mobile phone

Hey thanks Rick! You're a star!

You're talking about this little table ( https://us.feldershop.com/en-US/en-US/en-US/en-US/Sawing/Accessories/Additional-support/Table-Extends.html ) , right?? I struggled getting that lined up as

They make straight pex , I use 1/2”I’d rubber hose But I will use pex in basement it is just to to to easy. Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106

We used 3/4" PEX to re-run our pneumatic plumbing last year, it's been good to us and flexible to make splices and changes as we've needed. It feels like our air plumbing system holds about 20 gallons