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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig

 
Edited

I did the same¡­ love it! I set the TSO tracks back 3/4¡± from the saw blade (don¡¯t want it touching the aluminum) and attached a replaceable piece of hardwood to trim flush and prevent spelching on the back of the cut. The TSO stops are super easy to recalibrate if the edging is replaced.
Sorry, can¡¯t post pictures, camping in the Rockies right now :-)
?
--
Daniel Day
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada
Re: Kappa crosscut fence extension

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks very much!
Elwin

On Sep 15, 2024, at 7:15?AM, mariusz_m via groups.io <mariusz_m@...> wrote:

?
I have created a 3D file for the Kappa crosscut fence extension. It is a copy of what Felder offers in wood - ?I printed mine in white PLA and it works great. If anyone is interested please PM me and I will email it to you or if someone lets me know how, I will gladly upload it to the files.

Mariusz
<photo-2.jpg>
File /3D Printer Files/Endcap.stl uploaded #file-notice

Group Notification
 

The following files and folders have been uploaded to the Files area of the [email protected] group.

By: mariusz_m <mariusz_m@...>

Description:
Kappa crosscut extension/endcap
Kappa crosscut fence extension

 
Edited

I have created a 3D file for the Kappa crosscut fence extension. It is a copy of what Felder offers in wood - ?I printed mine in white PLA and it works great. I have just uploaded it to the files section/3d files. You will find it under the name Endcap.?

Mariusz
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig

 

Hi JP,?
?
That's a clever utilization of the TSO components, I'll have to give that a try myself. One appeal of this setup is that the TSO flip stops are pretty easy to fine-tune and adjust as needed. Thank you for sharing!?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig

 

Yes I used the TSO track and applied Starrett Stix tape. You can also use Incra track with their measuring scales.

Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig

 

Very nice. ?Is that the TSO track with a scale applied? Or another track?
thanks
?
Re: The Wood Whisperer's first Felder toy

 

Not sure how I find this thread right now, but someone ask Marc about getting a slider this week and he said he isn¡¯t going to bring one since his core audience would never get one.
?
people can still relate to him when he has a fancy planer, because it the same thing as box planer, but a slider is a different animal and require different operations, so he sticks with American cabinet saws.
Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig

 

My original Fritz & Franz jig I used Incra stops which worked but had several drawbacks. Decided to build version 2.0 using TSO stops and I think I am really going to like the new setup.

Re: Wax/oil finishes

 

I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don¡¯t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels.
Re: Wax/oil finishes

 

Andy,
I¡¯m planning on waiting a week. I just did a sample and watching that. Yes they don¡¯t recommend it but I have no problem breaking the rules.
Re: Wax/oil finishes

 

Hey Joe

Do you wait until the Rubio is cured fully to apply a poly top coat?? I¡¯ve considered putting poly over some pieces that get a lot of wear but the manufacturers don¡¯t recommend it.?

For osmo I¡¯ve found that using their extra thin clear product before a coat of polyx yields great results, especially on walnut.?



On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 6:12?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote:
[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Lucky,
I have only been using the Saicos premium hard wax oil on my home projects and the yurt I built for my son. I know they have other products but that¡¯s the only one I have used. I used some Osmo years ago and it seemed to work the same but certainly have not put the research into this like you have. When I first started using these I felt like the build and protection was not so good wiping that first coat off. Hence going to leaving a heavy coat on the first application. It does dry fairly coarse and needs sanding with 320. The 320 is a hold over from my hard finish days but getting the sheen and feel I like. I just use the microfiber roller they sell and leaving the material on without wiping doesn¡¯t seem like the type roller matters much.
I¡¯m not using Hardwax oil for any exterior work. I have been using the Saicos UV exterior oil for this applied the same way. I have tried several of the European exterior oils and also US made Heritage Oil. It used to be made locally. They are all similar, with exterior oil the recoating and maintenance is necessary depending on exposure.

Now for my bar project I¡¯m using Rubio only because I like the way their stains go on. Not a fan of staining anything but an old fashioned bar calls for it. And the customer is always right! Or should we say - he with the gold makes the rules! The color is coming out good but the one coat just doesn¡¯t seem like enough. I plan to use the sheen additive for a second coat. I did not see any reason to use the hardener since it will be a while before it is even installed.
I talked to a guy that came to Alpine a few years ago that was using Rubio. He has since gone from a one man shop to a full on architectural shop with employees. He said he was getting a lot of callback on Rubio finished horizontal work. He started adding N3 Nano to the topcoat and said that helped some but said he finally set up a spray booth using Poly and conversion varnish.
For my bar tops I am going to go over the Rubio with Poly. Bars I built 20 to 30 years ago we finishe the bar tops with poly and easy to refinish when necessary. Conversion varnish is tougher but very difficult to refinish in the field.
Re: Wax/oil finishes

 

I've been really happy with Rubio the few times I've used it so far. Especially their hybrid wood protector that I used on a large outdoor planter. It has been sitting fully exposed to all 4 seasons here in the North East for around 18 months now and hasn't shown any signs of failure.
?
I'm considering using the hybrid wood protector instead of the regular oil for an interior bathroom vanity project, which will no doubt see more water than other furniture.
--
?
Larry Long Neck
Just a noob trying to learn the ways of wood

> Making youtube videos now!
??? -

Re: Wax/oil finishes

 

Hi Chris,
Good question, if it¡¯s working more power to you for avoiding these high priced Euro finishes!
I used watco for years and my former shop associate uses Waterlox a lot for countertops and tables. I have no experience with that but he likes it. I was also thinking back when I used the Sam Maloff oil- poly - wax mix and it looked good and pretty durable on horizontal surfaces.
Re: Wax/oil finishes

 

Ok ya¡¯ll..
For years I have been using Watco and Waterlox, with what I believe to be success.
Am I missing something critical, or am I just clueless? I am not producing my projects commercially, and maybe that has some value in this discussion.

Chris Rozycki

On Sep 14, 2024, at 6:12?AM, Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> wrote:

?[Edited Message Follows]

Hi Lucky,
I have only been using the Saicos premium hard wax oil on my home projects and the yurt I built for my son. I know they have other products but that¡¯s the only one I have used. I used some Osmo years ago and it seemed to work the same but certainly have not put the research into this like you have. When I first started using these I felt like the build and protection was not so good wiping that first coat off. Hence going to leaving a heavy coat on the first application. It does dry fairly coarse and needs sanding with 320. The 320 is a hold over from my hard finish days but getting the sheen and feel I like. I just use the microfiber roller they sell and leaving the material on without wiping doesn¡¯t seem like the type roller matters much.
I¡¯m not using Hardwax oil for any exterior work. I have been using the Saicos UV exterior oil for this applied the same way. I have tried several of the European exterior oils and also US made Heritage Oil. It used to be made locally. They are all similar, with exterior oil the recoating and maintenance is necessary depending on exposure.

Now for my bar project I¡¯m using Rubio only because I like the way their stains go on. Not a fan of staining anything but an old fashioned bar calls for it. And the customer is always right! Or should we say - he with the gold makes the rules! The color is coming out good but the one coat just doesn¡¯t seem like enough. I plan to use the sheen additive for a second coat. I did not see any reason to use the hardener since it will be a while before it is even installed.
I talked to a guy that came to Alpine a few years ago that was using Rubio. He has since gone from a one man shop to a full on architectural shop with employees. He said he was getting a lot of callback on Rubio finished horizontal work. He started adding N3 Nano to the topcoat and said that helped some but said he finally set up a spray booth using Poly and conversion varnish.
For my bar tops I am going to go over the Rubio with Poly. Bars I built 20 to 30 years ago we finishe the bar tops with poly and easy to refinish when necessary. Conversion varnish is tougher but very difficult to refinish in the field.





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<IMG_9437.jpeg>

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Re: Wax/oil finishes

 
Edited

Hi Lucky,
I have only been using the Saicos premium hard wax oil on my home projects and the yurt I built for my son. I know they have other products but that¡¯s the only one I have used. I used some Osmo years ago and it seemed to work the same but certainly have not put the research into this like you have. When I first started using these I felt like the build and protection was not so good wiping that first coat off. Hence going to leaving a heavy coat on the first application. It does dry fairly coarse and needs sanding with 320. The 320 is a hold over from my hard finish days but getting the sheen and feel I like. I just use the microfiber roller they sell and leaving the material on without wiping doesn¡¯t seem like the type roller matters much.
I¡¯m not using Hardwax oil for any exterior work. I have been using the Saicos UV exterior oil for this applied the same way. I have tried several of the European exterior oils and also US made Heritage Oil. It used to be made locally. They are all similar, with exterior oil the recoating and maintenance is necessary depending on exposure.

Now for my bar project I¡¯m using Rubio only because I like the way their stains go on. Not a fan of staining anything but an old fashioned bar calls for it. And the customer is always right! Or should we say - he with the gold makes the rules! The color is coming out good but the one coat just doesn¡¯t seem like enough. I plan to use the sheen additive for a second coat. I did not see any reason to use the hardener since it will be a while before it is even installed.
I talked to a guy that came to Alpine a few years ago that was using Rubio. He has since gone from a one man shop to a full on architectural shop with employees. He said he was getting a lot of callback on Rubio finished horizontal work. He started adding N3 Nano to the topcoat and said that helped some but said he finally set up a spray booth using Poly and conversion varnish.
For my bar tops I am going to go over the Rubio with Poly. Bars I built 20 to 30 years ago we finishe the bar tops with poly and easy to refinish when necessary. Conversion varnish is tougher but very difficult to refinish in the field.

IMG_9438.jpeg
IMG_9437.jpeg

Re: Drum sanders

 

I want to thank everyone who responded to my post. You are all amazing! I doubt there is another place where I could find this much information. Thank you all for your time to share your thoughts, knowledge and first hand experience!
Mariusz
Re: Drum sanders

 

Thank you David, this amazing wealth of information!?
Re: Drum sanders

 

Prior to ordering my North State 16" wide belt sand, I looked into the Houfek Cindy sanders as well. At the time, Houfek was willing to import a machine, but they wouldn't ship until they had a shipping container's worth of product sold, and in general the logistics seemed a bit challenging. That being said, I have seen Houfek machines in North America, though they do seem to be few and far between.?
?
As Marius points out, the Cindy machines are not inexpensive, ~$20k is in the ballpark of what was quoted to me a few years ago. Unaffordable for me at the time, and would be a tough pill to swallow even now. That being said, the Cindy machines seemed more sophisticated, presumably justifying the cost premium over the North State/Powermatic.?
?
One interesting detail on the Cindy machines is that the feed bed is stationary, while the sanding aggregate moves up- and down-.?
?
As already pointed out, the North State/Powermatic 16" machine is pretty slick, and a good value for the cost. In terms of footprint, it really doesn't take up much more room than a similarly sized drum sander, but I acknowledge it is more expensive, requires more power, better dust extraction, and compressed air to operate properly.?
?
That is rather strange that there aren't more options for a small-format wide belt in Europe.?
?
?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Drum sanders

 

I had a 15" open ended wide belt, badged Bridgewood but the same as powermatic, North State etc. solid machine. There's actually one on local auction here in Minnesota right now.?

Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765

--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
3821 - 3840 of 141192