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Yes, this happens frequently on the Kappa 400. The dust extraction on these systems is inferior to the K975 it replaced, and a couple of us here on FOG have had distasteful arguments with Hansj?rg

Hi Mike: I have a Kappa 400 which is similar to your machine under the cast iron table. Because mine is an x-motion version, instead of a “light” showing a sensor fault for blade speeds, the fault

Hi Mike, There are sensors on my K975 but I am not certain if they are optical. The description in the book is not detailed enough. This is what it looks like in the exploded assembly deg (item 28). I

K940S...Has anyone experience the belt speed sensors throwing on the "fault" light because the sensors are constantly getting covered in dust!? First time it happened, a quick call to Felder

Nice fit, VEVOR 3T Prylever Bar 6600 Lbs Capacity Steel Pry Lever Bar Heavy Duty with Wheels Prylever with 5FT Length Handle amazon.com martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave.

My Hammer A3-31 jointer-thicknesser has lived in the corner of my garage workshop for about 8 years now ... ( https://postimages.org/ ) This is okay for moderate size work pieces, but larger boards,

I would be quiet interested, would you ship it to europe? Also would it be possible to buy it without the router? Many thanks, Rich [email protected]> wrote:

Not sure how I missed that the first time but wow Mr Best, wow. Mark Foster

I second that!

David, You keep teasing us with picture of your F&F...time to go into production mode. Dave Davies [email protected]> wrote: -- Dave & Marie Davies www.myfinishingtouch.com 318-219-7868

When needing to make minor adjustments to the stop on the F&F, nothing comes close to having a digital readout. /g/felderownersgroup/message/103406 David Best DBestWorkshop@...

JP, I like the ability to adjust the stop and an easy way to sight the measurement, but the stop seems small. Have you ever needed to add a block for oddly shaped stock? Thanks, Mike

1. Try Naptha. If it is too fast but still works, downgrade to mineral spirits. 2. If #1 doesn't work, xylene or "xylol" 3. If #2 doesn't work, denatured alcohol 4. If you want it really gone, lacquer

Hi, Not a Felder question at all. I recently finished my Ipe deck with an ipe oil finish. For one reason or another I left too much oil on the wood and it gummed up rather than soaked into the wood.

Hi Christopher: You are likely not missing much. Hardwax oils are easy to use, look good, and last fairly well. But those three descriptors could be used for a wide variety of finishes! Maybe the only

Jason, good point about the wax in these products. I did make a sample and the poly went on fine and still ok after a couple days. Way back when we did cabinets using glazes, stains and catalyzed

Hi Mike: Can you give more specifics on this product? Emmet’s urethane gel or …? Thanks! Warm regards, Lucky Dr David Luckensmeyer ________________________________ Sent: Monday, September 16, 2024

We have used ‘The Good Stuff’ for the last 20+ years on butcher block tops. ?A little fussy to apply, (wipe on and off), and durable. ?Plus it’s easy to touch up. ?Haven’t found anything

I have only used Rubio twice. It was the easiest thing to apply I have ever used, and smelled nice, sort of like honey, while it was going on as well. I applied two coats, which drastically improved