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Marlow everything you want in a facer. My EMA is the same but no tersa ,,,darn darn darn. Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330 cell

You can polish your shaft with a marron pad while it spins and you can wipe on LPS 1 and wipe it off . No grease! martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106

There is always a way I’ve been doing this a long time so have presses, pullers , bearing, heaters, torches couple cranes , needle scalers and on and on. But like I said always a way ,,, bearing

Well I'm glad that you're not totally defeated yet! My Oliver 192 has yet to cut a board and I've had it almost a year ? Sounds like you've got good machinist help too, as do I. I did pull the

If the bottom isn't flat ( except for the ears ) that is a sharpening issue. After boring, the teeth should be tipped off by the sharpening service to ensure the bottom is flat. FS Tool are good

FWIW, I use FS Tool 6-inch dado on my K3, re-bored for Felder.? It cuts bat ears with somewhat flat bottoms.? Maximum dado depth is 5/8 inches, a height that is limiting occasionally.? I don't

I had floated the idea of selling my Martin planer on the FOG but got no takers (I had posted no photos though…). ?I’m fine with selling my newly restored Griggio PSA 630 Planer instead. ?4

I had the same issue.? Unfortunately my rebate head did get welled on but I got a machine shop to press it off and to repolish the arbor to get the gall line off. It still feels very tight. For

He has a great shop. I took a shaper class there a few years back -- best view from a shop that I've ever seen. Kerry -------------- Kerry Smtih Gotham Woodworks www.gothamwoodworks.com

TJ so almost typical of old machines If in a shop with poor maintenance ( almost all)!!! Is going to have stuff like this happen! Stick to it and count yourself lucky that you have a dad that can

I'd look at the bearings too. They might not be the problem but might contribute to it, and are probably due for replacement. They run slow so I'd look for an ABEC 3 C2 or CN if you want sealed or if

I rebuilt the motor on my Deckel mill that looks about the same as yours. Think the bearings were cheap, like $30-$40 for both. Of course I had no runout issues with the shaft, but while it was apart

Hey Jason - thanks for your note. I confess I’m a little disappointed that I may not have caught all of the issues at the dealer, but I’m not at the point of regret yet. I am pretty new to band

TJ, I hope you are enjoying this adventure and will end up with a great saw in the end. I'd hate to have led you astray down a rabbit hole throwing good money at a problem machine. Could the shaft be

The current shaft is 1.125”. Most 215T motors I am seeing are either 1.375 or 1.625. I could rebore the wheel again if I had to. I have no idea what size the bearings are in my existing motor. Based

Does the wheel fit on a traditional motor shaft? What size are the bearings for the original motor? You want a heavy frame, large bearing motor if powering directly. 1200 rpm will be fine. My Oliver

If you talked to the same guy I did, he’s a funny one. I heard similar discouragement from him about motor replacement and the unlikelihood of getting a new motor lined up, but geez, we’re talking

Man i talked with whoever owns northfield about swapping the motor on my 36d. He said just buy a new saw. That was not an option. Mine is 900rpm with a 28” resaw capacity and he claims the original

Some of you have been following my refurbishing project of the Northfield 20 band saw. To make a long story short, I'm questioning if the motor is fixable. This is a direct drive saw. The lower wheel

On Felder 741 J/P manual, it says using grease to lubricate the height screw. I use Shell Gadus S3 grease, $5 at Carquest in Canada. James [email protected]> wrote: