I'd look at the bearings too.? They might not be the problem but might contribute to it, and are probably due for replacement.? They run slow so I'd look for an ABEC 3 C2 or CN if you want sealed or if currently open and you want to keep them open, ebay is
a good source for C2planer bearings.? The clearance will tighten up the arbor which I assume is also part of the rotor.? I think a good machinist could straighten a shaft like that unless totally out of whack.
Northfield was very careful about setting the motor- I think they used babbit.? My Y20 motor has a bunch of shims under it.? Whatever you have, keep track of where they are so you can put them back in place.? you will want to put a dial on the shaft when installed?
to check for run out again.
Don't beat yourself up.? The used machine business has a lot of early frustration but the bones of those machines ios so good that when you finally sort out the issues, you will have a like new machine that would cost an arm and a leg to buy new.? While I've
been lucky periodically, I alwlays figure a used machine will take a month or two ( or year ) of my hobby time to sort out.? Dave
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I rebuilt the motor on my Deckel mill that looks about the same as yours. Think the bearings were cheap, like $30-$40 for both. Of course I had no runout issues with the shaft, but while it was apart I blocked up up
and checked the shaft for runout, pretty easy to do. If your Dad has a lathe, he can put it between centers and make sure the shaft is straight.
On Oct 17, 2020, at 8:19 AM, TJ Cornish <
tj@...> wrote:
Hey Jason - thanks for your note.
I confess I¡¯m a little disappointed that I may not have caught all of the issues at the dealer, but I¡¯m not at the point of regret yet.
I am pretty new to band saws and I¡¯m still getting up to speed on what matters and what doesn¡¯t. As is, the saw isn¡¯t bouncing across the shop, and I just performed my first resaw of about a 9¡± tall piece of white oak. I don¡¯t have my
new blade yet, so I¡¯m using the crappy one that came with the saw, and I don¡¯t have the heavier spring from Iturra yet so there isn¡¯t a ton of tension on the blade. My first cuts would impress no one in finish quality, but the saw seems to cut pretty straight
and it seems like 2HP is going to be fine for the low volume usage I have.
I think I¡¯m going to see what the new blade and spring do before looking too hard at the motor. There¡¯s definitely some kind of issue inside as without the lower wheel on the motor, the motor shaft wants to rotate to a particular spot,
so there¡¯s something wrong with the shaft inside the motor.
Any machining work on the existing motor is I think probably not a good time investment as the bearings are probably worn and any monkey business to try to straighten or remachine the shaft will start to approach the cost of
replacement, even if that¡¯s just my dad¡¯s and my time.
Worst case is I spend $525 on a new 1200RPM motor and tap my dad to help me resize the wheel for the new shaft. If I go that route I will get a smoother saw and marginally more speed and horsepower.
TJ
On Oct 17, 2020, at 9:31 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
?
TJ,?
I hope you are enjoying this adventure and will end up with a great saw in the end. I'd hate to have led you astray down a rabbit hole throwing good money at a problem machine.
Could the shaft be turned down and sleeved?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612.432.2765
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Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
