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Sounds like the only type of blade to use now that you bring it up and I think about the dangers associated with radial arm saws.

McMaster Carr has a great page on pin wrenches, if only to get you calibrated as to what kind / size you need: https://www.mcmaster.com/pin-wrenches/ -- Michael Garrison Stuber

Might seem stupid, but is the saw blade turning in the correct direction? It might be you electrician switched to leads making it spin in the reverse direction and cause bad cutting speed, vibration

Got advice from someone who recently rebuilt one. That is a threaded bushing. Where is a good place to get a spanner wrench? I’ve attached pics from the other fellow and a pick of the assembly from

I have a Delta 18-900L.? With good drill bits, it performs adequately.? From what posted here, it is no better than the golden offerings.? For about $800 when I bought it new, it meets

You should use a negative rake on both radial and cutting alu. aluminum should use lubricant on saw blades. If raw aluminum it gums up fast I never use that stuff Make sure aluminum is mechanically

Joe First nut seems like a dumb design but ya a looking method. Might be better off with double hook wrench nut Second one usa bugged up nut hole for a spaner wrench You should be able to see threads

The first item, the set screw in the face, yes, that is a locknut. The second part… hard to say, those might be holes for a spanner wrench and what does the opposite end look like? The end on the

Paul, I bought a Luna MD20BV. I think Luna is a Swedish brand, and the machine seems to only be available in Sweden, Norway and Denmark.

Micheal I've been eyeing that Jet machine. Your comments were illuminating and off-putting. My impression was that Jet is a step up from Axminster own brand machines which of themselves I have found

My mitutoyo absolute? calipers did the same damn thing.?? They have changed the design since.? I sent mine back? I?? think the repair was $60.00? or there abouts.

Need some help from my FOG friends. The first two pics are just a curiosity. They are pics of the nut that is on the end of the upper wheel shaft opposite the wheel. There is a slot around about 1/5th

I have a couple of 10” N.F. blades and all have 60 teeth or more. It’s the high tooth count more than the grind or rake that make them awful at ripping.

HI fellow woodies, I bought new a 2002 C3-31 and mostly use the table saw, (bought a used mini-max 350 for separate jointer planer) and Ive been having an issue where it cuts out when using it for not

I had a similar drill press. It's from Axminster and it looks very much like a Powermatic, but I have no clue if it's the same machine or not. I wasn't happy with it. It was unbalanced, had runout and

I have a 2800.? It's been disappointing since the day I bought it.? The variable speed mechanism shakes like an unbalanced washing machine when you set it towards the bottom the range.? I called

I don't have that machine, but in that situation I usually cut a blank to width that will make all the fronts for a cabinet bank. Edge band the sides, then rip it apart and band the top and bottom.

I'm guessing your non-ferrous blade has a negative rake angle on the teeth, so it's going to be less aggressive than a normal crosscut blade for wood. I'm thinking it would not rip very well at all

#2 is about 3200 and later model 3 is about 3600. The #3 has a little slower auto feed rate ( each has three feeds ) which is nicer for boring steel. Key is to find one with good bearings. The ABEC 9

OMG, what does the Moore weigh? Would win the vibration damping contest for certain!