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Hi guys, I am building a (huge) tool cabinet, 42"h x 41"w and about 3/4 thick. I am wondering what kind of hinge I should use to hold the doors. The doors will be about 3.5" deep, everything in hard

You have to get that rusted ring off the studs first. I'm guessing it's been there long enough, and probably slightly stuck in the paint, once it's off you will be able to lift the motor, I can see

Hi Imran:I have a Felder FB600 bandsaw and Hammer A3-31 at home but no slider either at home or work. This is the first time we've had a project that involved cutting this much wood at work.?Fred

Hi Fred, i have been following this and am curious why did you not use your felder saw? perhaps this is at work and saw is at your home. either way, well done ? imran

Nicely done! Brian Lamb blamb11@... www.lambtoolworks.com

Yes, all our equipment has hanging electrical lines. Use properly rated materials and strain reliefs, and twist lock connectors (preferably at shoulder height for easy reach or above your head so you

Acharya, i have not done it but what would be the concern? if there is going to be a receptacle in the ceiling make sure it is one that locks the plug. imran

Sounds a lot like overcurrent protection/thermal cutout since there's clearly a cool down period and it cuts out with load, I don't know where this resides on the 2002 model. I have a 2005 B3 and it's

David you are correct and so is Jeff when he initially asked if belt should go in between the two rollers, looks as if smaller roller/tensioner is attached to link arm that engages the feed by

Jeff, I can’t be sure, but looking at your most recent photo, it appears to me that the belt tensioning may be done via the idler wheel with spring tension, rather than a tensioning system involving

Jeff pry off retainer plate in photo, now that nuts have been removed, this will show you if you have any more travel upwards on what should be elongated holes on machine body. Happy to help after the

I took off the bolts. Here is what it looks like. It's not clear to me what to do next. I do appreciate the help. As you might guess, I've both never done this and am concerned about breaking

Joe, I'm not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but owwm.org, or old woodworking machines, has information on older vintage machines.? Doing a search on "tannewitz ph 30" found 109 matches. Dennis

Jeff, I should of said in previous post that when you take the 4 retaining bolts out that should allow you to remove retaining flange on pulley side, this will allow you to see what is stopping you

Jeff good to hear it is loose, the 4 retainer bolts will be in elongated holes in machine body to allow movement of motor up & down without taking out of retaining bolts as then the motor would hang

Does anyone have success with running the power line to a Felder KF700 from above and attaching it to the vertical support of the overarm saw guard?

I jiggled the motor from the rear and it moves a bit.? I tried levering from the front again like in the photo from the doc David sent and the motor moves up maybe 1mm or 2.? It sort of makes sense

Jeff, with 4 elect motor mounting retaining bolts just loosened, I would try to loosen elect motor flange mounting that is clamped with the 4 retaining bolts to planer/thicknesser body by gently using

Thanks David, Hoping that I never have to do this, I nonetheless saved the doc. the 160Hz resonant tone from the plucked belt is much more useful than trying to figure out how to measure 330 - 380Nm

Thanks David for the document and the cocktail ice tip. It had given me more ideas. Thanks also to Colin for the tips. I sprayed WD40 on the motor bolts and bought a 13mm extension socket and got them