开云体育

Exactly. Just like the tenoning plate. Position the sled so it isn’t machined during the profiling operation. Or, if you want to keep the sled stationary and use the PF, you can always cut out the

Same as always: https://youtu.be/9s2a02XI3BQ David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

David - Thank you for your input. The suggestion of building a sled that covers the slider as well as part of the cast iron table (with layers of the foil tape on the bottom side) seems like the

Hi Cornelius, If you handle long stock often I recommend looking into PF for jointer. Longest I have jointed is bit over 4m. I have done the width that required 3x of my Dual 51 (510 mm). I have to be

David, How did you make sure the slider is coplanar to the cast-iron? What is your reference point?

Here are my suggestions. Your sliding table should be adjusted to be the same distance above the cast iron top at both ends, and be coplanar to the cast iron top. It should also maintain its coplanar

Thanks for your feedback! Brett - your suggestion with the copy paper makes sense since we're only talking about a fraction of a mm, but how and where do you place/secure the paper when you feed a

I have a follow up question. Did how did you make sure the fence is coplanar with the sliding table? I tried to change the toe out of the slider, but when I am setting the back edge of the slider, the

I will recommend extra pressure modules from Aigner if you have rails mounted on your table, or also buy the rails and enjoy the versatility. There's a couple module attachments that look well suited

I think your slider is as low as it probably can be. Simplest solution to your current problem is to just glue boards without any profile/counter profile. I do understand the desire to use such

Cornelius, I used to keep a stack of copy paper nearby and run inboard of the slider if pieces became large enough to interfere. My slider table I believe was about 2 sheets of copy paper normally

Hi all sliding table shaper users, I have a question regarding the usual/best/preferred relationship of sliding table height to cast-iron top of a shaper (stand alone, not KF combo). The subject has

Jonathan, I do not think there is a way to calibrate them other than setting the zero position where you want it ( by pressing the Zero button) - at the end of the track or anywhere along it. The way

Nice set up Mariusz! I have the same SHAHE DRO and wondering if you found a way to calibrate them other than going to zero. [email protected]> wrote: -- Kindest Regards Jonathan Samways

Nothing will come close to what David has, but if someone wants to equip their F&F with a cheap DRO (not very elegant solution, but one that doesn’t require fine machining skills David has); here is

I used the birdsmouth bits to do mortises in goncalo alves (dense and hard), and they worked well. Marlowe McGraw [email protected]> wrote:

I would not call birdsmouth very slow. I was satisfied with my first door that I did with it. I can share pics and video of both bits cutting and the resulting mortices. Imran Malik

Thanks for that Imran. Do you find the birdsmouth bits to be very slow cutting? Chris

The first tooling I'm looking at getting is exactly what you've listed. Have to save up for them.

I haven't really moved it since it got it in place. The casters I got have a big rubber foot that comes out and locks it in place. It gives my the ability to move it a little but here and there. I