Nice!? Question...do you worry about the heat from the range affecting the wood cabinet's top?? Is there a layer of insulation between the range and the wood top?? Or is the heat not a problem?? I have a commercial hot plate that in need of something similar to your cabinet, but have not looked into the heat problem (if there is one).??
SW
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Marlowe,
Nicely done.
Imran
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On Dec 26, 2020, at 7:03 PM, Marlowe McGraw <marlomcgraw@...> wrote: ?Hello all, I found a Viking propane 4 burner plus grill range top on craigslist.? ?Given that this will be our fuel at our new house construction,? I bought it as the first outdoor kitchen item. I kept the build secret, saying only that I was doing elf work... The primary wood is teak, with walnut floor pieces and mahogany structure.? ?Screws were stainless and silicone bronze.? The floor pieces were just laid in and the handles (bolivian rosewood) were rough and hot glued on because the elf was behind schedule...
<IMG_9950.jpg> <IMG_9952.jpg> <IMG_9949.jpg>
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Marlowe,
Looks great! ?Our indoor kitchen runs on Propane in Bend and it works great! ?I did not have to build any supporting devices though. ?
Will you ever run out of bolivian rosewood? ?
Joe
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Hello all,
I found a Viking propane 4 burner plus grill range top on craigslist.? ?Given that this will be our fuel at our new house construction,? I bought it as the first outdoor kitchen item.
I kept the build secret, saying only that I was doing elf work...
The primary wood is teak, with walnut floor pieces and mahogany structure.? ?Screws were stainless and silicone bronze.?
The floor pieces were just laid in and the handles (bolivian rosewood) were rough and hot glued on because the elf was behind schedule...
<IMG_9950.jpg><IMG_9952.jpg><IMG_9949.jpg>
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Re: Easy-Lock & Quick-Lock
Really, Why would someone build a machine with a short leg?
Imran
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On Dec 26, 2020, at 7:37 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote: ? Heres a pic of that shorter “leg” <image0.jpeg> On Dec 26, 2020, at 7:11 PM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Actually, weirdly, there are only 2 holes pre drilled on the inboard side - one on each “leg” for seems about a 3/8” hole. One “leg” is shorter than all the others and had one leveler installed. The other two corners beneath the slider had no holes at all so I drilled for the 3/8” studded feet that I had but will need to open them all up to the 1/2”.? On Dec 26, 2020, at 5:09 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? I’m surprised you can get 1/2” studs into the holes on the bottom of the machine chassis. ?Every Felder machine I have or have seen has 11mm holes, which is too small for a 1/2” stud.
This is what I used on my Kappa 400:
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Yes, used a 2” pad version of the below from mcmaster, seemed fine on the k700 and one corner is like 1.5” - 2” in the air. Doesn’t seem enough on the k940 so i am installing 4” with 1/2” stud and extra thick oversized washers only because the ones u get at the big box are junk... using the grade 8 jam nut because one corner needs to be as close to the floor as I can get, should be ok.
<image1.jpeg>
? Thanks Mark, your photo explains it well. Question did you use leveling feet on your K700S? The layout drawing shows them, looks like 8 of them. Unfortunately my floor is not very level where my saw goes and I have had to shim/use levelers with all of my past saws in my shop. After 20+ yrs I am thinking about hiring a company to grind the floor to level out the high spots and put on a nice epoxy coating before the arrival of my new K700S 20 weeks from now.? Pat Rice
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Re: Easy-Lock & Quick-Lock
Heres a pic of that shorter “leg”
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On Dec 26, 2020, at 7:11 PM, Mark Kessler via groups.io <mkessler10@...> wrote:
? Actually, weirdly, there are only 2 holes pre drilled on the inboard side - one on each “leg” for seems about a 3/8” hole. One “leg” is shorter than all the others and had one leveler installed. The other two corners beneath the slider had no holes at all so I drilled for the 3/8” studded feet that I had but will need to open them all up to the 1/2”.? On Dec 26, 2020, at 5:09 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? I’m surprised you can get 1/2” studs into the holes on the bottom of the machine chassis. ?Every Felder machine I have or have seen has 11mm holes, which is too small for a 1/2” stud.
This is what I used on my Kappa 400:
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Yes, used a 2” pad version of the below from mcmaster, seemed fine on the k700 and one corner is like 1.5” - 2” in the air. Doesn’t seem enough on the k940 so i am installing 4” with 1/2” stud and extra thick oversized washers only because the ones u get at the big box are junk... using the grade 8 jam nut because one corner needs to be as close to the floor as I can get, should be ok.
<image1.jpeg>
? Thanks Mark, your photo explains it well. Question did you use leveling feet on your K700S? The layout drawing shows them, looks like 8 of them. Unfortunately my floor is not very level where my saw goes and I have had to shim/use levelers with all of my past saws in my shop. After 20+ yrs I am thinking about hiring a company to grind the floor to level out the high spots and put on a nice epoxy coating before the arrival of my new K700S 20 weeks from now.? Pat Rice
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No help here… if I had a pizza oven I’d be in deep trouble….
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Thanks Brian.? ?We are honing in on a pizza?oven... On Sat, Dec 26, 2020, 6:13 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Looks fantastic! The wife has wanted to build an outdoor kitchen for a long time now...
Hello all,
I found a Viking propane 4 burner plus grill range top on craigslist.? ?Given that this will be our fuel at our new house construction,? I bought it as the first outdoor kitchen item.
I kept the build secret, saying only that I was doing elf work...
The primary wood is teak, with walnut floor pieces and mahogany structure.? ?Screws were stainless and silicone bronze.?
The floor pieces were just laid in and the handles (bolivian rosewood) were rough and hot glued on because the elf was behind schedule...
<IMG_9950.jpg><IMG_9952.jpg><IMG_9949.jpg>
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Thanks Brian.? ?We are honing in on a pizza?oven...
On Sat, Dec 26, 2020, 6:13 PM Brian Lamb < blamb11@...> wrote: Looks fantastic! The wife has wanted to build an outdoor kitchen for a long time now...
Hello all,
I found a Viking propane 4 burner plus grill range top on craigslist.? ?Given that this will be our fuel at our new house construction,? I bought it as the first outdoor kitchen item.
I kept the build secret, saying only that I was doing elf work...
The primary wood is teak, with walnut floor pieces and mahogany structure.? ?Screws were stainless and silicone bronze.?
The floor pieces were just laid in and the handles (bolivian rosewood) were rough and hot glued on because the elf was behind schedule...
<IMG_9950.jpg><IMG_9952.jpg><IMG_9949.jpg>
|
Looks fantastic! The wife has wanted to build an outdoor kitchen for a long time now...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hello all,
I found a Viking propane 4 burner plus grill range top on craigslist.? ?Given that this will be our fuel at our new house construction,? I bought it as the first outdoor kitchen item.
I kept the build secret, saying only that I was doing elf work...
The primary wood is teak, with walnut floor pieces and mahogany structure.? ?Screws were stainless and silicone bronze.?
The floor pieces were just laid in and the handles (bolivian rosewood) were rough and hot glued on because the elf was behind schedule...
<IMG_9950.jpg><IMG_9952.jpg><IMG_9949.jpg>
|
Re: Easy-Lock & Quick-Lock
Actually, weirdly, there are only 2 holes pre drilled on the inboard side - one on each “leg” for seems about a 3/8” hole. One “leg” is shorter than all the others and had one leveler installed. The other two corners beneath the slider had no holes at all so I drilled for the 3/8” studded feet that I had but will need to open them all up to the 1/2”.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 26, 2020, at 5:09 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? I’m surprised you can get 1/2” studs into the holes on the bottom of the machine chassis. ?Every Felder machine I have or have seen has 11mm holes, which is too small for a 1/2” stud.
This is what I used on my Kappa 400:
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Yes, used a 2” pad version of the below from mcmaster, seemed fine on the k700 and one corner is like 1.5” - 2” in the air. Doesn’t seem enough on the k940 so i am installing 4” with 1/2” stud and extra thick oversized washers only because the ones u get at the big box are junk... using the grade 8 jam nut because one corner needs to be as close to the floor as I can get, should be ok.
<image1.jpeg>
? Thanks Mark, your photo explains it well. Question did you use leveling feet on your K700S? The layout drawing shows them, looks like 8 of them. Unfortunately my floor is not very level where my saw goes and I have had to shim/use levelers with all of my past saws in my shop. After 20+ yrs I am thinking about hiring a company to grind the floor to level out the high spots and put on a nice epoxy coating before the arrival of my new K700S 20 weeks from now.? Pat Rice
|
Hello all,
I found a Viking propane 4 burner plus grill range top on craigslist.? ?Given that this will be our fuel at our new house construction,? I bought it as the first outdoor kitchen item.
I kept the build secret, saying only that I was doing elf work...
The primary wood is teak, with walnut floor pieces and mahogany structure.? ?Screws were stainless and silicone bronze.?
The floor pieces were just laid in and the handles (bolivian rosewood) were rough and hot glued on because the elf was behind schedule...
|
Re: Machinery Choice and Workshop Layout
Hi Michael!?
Yeah, I'm crossing my fingers that the 3200mm setup will "actually" fit, if so I suspect I'll really appreciate it.?
The layout is a bit outdated, but thanks. I'll work on revising it once Grizzly updates their software. I've found that, for myself, this has been a very useful tool in terms of sorting out shop layouts, and will be nice for planning dust collection, lighting, and outlet placements.?
As far as the A3-41 goes, it's a great machine and has really opened a lot of doors for me in terms of finally owning a jointer and a non-benchtop thickness planer. I agree with you that the change over is pretty painless, and since I work solo it's not an impediment to have it set up one way or the other.?
Regarding keeping the A3-41 as a dedicated jointer and adding a planer, given my limited space I don't think I'd be able to squeeze in a planer, so I'll likely be locked in to jointer/planer combos for the foreseeable future. The A3-41 hasn't skipped a beat based on my current usage, but since I'll be setting up a 10hp phase converter in my Shop, I figured it might make sense to eventually bump up to a AD741/941/951 with a 3-ph 7.5hp package. This is all speculative, and won't happen for at least another 5-10 years, so at this time I'm just in information-gathering mode.....?
Best of luck on your machine purchase and shop planning, I'm excited to see what you come up with.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Easy-Lock & Quick-Lock
I’m surprised you can get 1/2” studs into the holes on the bottom of the machine chassis. ?Every Felder machine I have or have seen has 11mm holes, which is too small for a 1/2” stud.
This is what I used on my Kappa 400:
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Yes, used a 2” pad version of the below from mcmaster, seemed fine on the k700 and one corner is like 1.5” - 2” in the air. Doesn’t seem enough on the k940 so i am installing 4” with 1/2” stud and extra thick oversized washers only because the ones u get at the big box are junk... using the grade 8 jam nut because one corner needs to be as close to the floor as I can get, should be ok.
<image1.jpeg>
? Thanks Mark, your photo explains it well. Question did you use leveling feet on your K700S? The layout drawing shows them, looks like 8 of them. Unfortunately my floor is not very level where my saw goes and I have had to shim/use levelers with all of my past saws in my shop. After 20+ yrs I am thinking about hiring a company to grind the floor to level out the high spots and put on a nice epoxy coating before the arrival of my new K700S 20 weeks from now.? Pat Rice
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Re: The "Singing Planer" finally solved...I think
oops, my reply ended up making a new thread under "Update to the fix" because I changed the subject line.?
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Re: Machinery Choice and Workshop Layout
Hi Michael,
I ended up with a A951L and D963.??
SW
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Re: Easy-Lock & Quick-Lock
Yes, used a 2” pad version of the below from mcmaster, seemed fine on the k700 and one corner is like 1.5” - 2” in the air. Doesn’t seem enough on the k940 so i am installing 4” with 1/2” stud and extra thick oversized washers only because the ones u get at the big box are junk... using the grade 8 jam nut because one corner needs to be as close to the floor as I can get, should be ok.
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On Dec 25, 2020, at 12:36 PM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote:
? Thanks Mark, your photo explains it well. Question did you use leveling feet on your K700S? The layout drawing shows them, looks like 8 of them. Unfortunately my floor is not very level where my saw goes and I have had to shim/use levelers with all of my past saws in my shop. After 20+ yrs I am thinking about hiring a company to grind the floor to level out the high spots and put on a nice epoxy coating before the arrival of my new K700S 20 weeks from now.?
Pat Rice
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Re: Thoughts on going from K500 P to K700 S
There are some nice sliders on Woodweb right now, including a K940 that looks to be brand new for about 10K.? Dave
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I can tell you that it was +$1100 diff for me on the k940 vs the k700 and that included the auto scoring with the lights along with the full dro and slider on/off. Now I might have received some special pricing because of the issues but couldn’t
have been much, I didn’t even bother to negotiate.
Whats the cost on the phase conversion? The Phase perfect cost $2100 used and I installed myself, also paid an electrician $125 to consult with.
At some point i may post my impression of the k940 vs the k700 but i can tell you that the k940 is a slightly better build, (frame looks like the kappa 400, not sure though) there are a lot of little things that add up to make it a better choice than the
k700, now you may never no/miss that unless you have used a k700 and the k700 is plenty for a hobby and a huge step up from a cabinet saw.
Not that your asking for my opinion but I would forgo the xmotion on the k700, thats a lotta cash especially if you can get into the k940. Did you price the k940 with one moving dro on the xcut and the auto scoring? Even without the switch on the slider
and the warning lights ($300) it would be a great build, even potentially with out the auto score. However the auto score is one of tHe reasons I went with the k940, glad i did totally worth it.
On Dec 26, 2020, at 10:01 AM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote:
?Mark, I have crunched all the numbers many times over the last several day and the difference between the single phase K700S and the K940S with Phase Perfect converter is just under $7,400. Feature wise I would gain the scoring unit status light,
automatic rise / fall of scoring unit, 1.5 hp more, additional 350 lbs of weight and easy-lock on saw blade. These are the paper differences but I am sure in person there would be more tangible differences. ?The cost difference from the Kappa 400 X-Motion
to K700S is additional $10,830. There is a big difference between my wants and needs ?
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Re: Thoughts on going from K500 P to K700 S
I can tell you that it was +$1100 diff for me on the k940 vs the k700 and that included the auto scoring with the lights along with the full dro and slider on/off. Now I might have received some special pricing because of the issues but couldn’t have been much, I didn’t even bother to negotiate. Whats the cost on the phase conversion? The Phase perfect cost $2100 used and I installed myself, also paid an electrician $125 to consult with.
At some point i may post my impression of the k940 vs the k700 but i can tell you that the k940 is a slightly better build, (frame looks like the kappa 400, not sure though) there are a lot of little things that add up to make it a better choice than the k700, now you may never no/miss that unless you have used a k700 and the k700 is plenty for a hobby and a huge step up from a cabinet saw.
Not that your asking for my opinion but I would forgo the xmotion on the k700, thats a lotta cash especially if you can get into the k940. Did you price the k940 with one moving dro on the xcut and the auto scoring? Even without the switch on the slider and the warning lights ($300) it would be a great build, even potentially with out the auto score. However the auto score is one of tHe reasons I went with the k940, glad i did totally worth it.
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On Dec 26, 2020, at 10:01 AM, JP Rice via groups.io <jprphotos@...> wrote:
?Mark, I have crunched all the numbers many times over the last several day and the difference between the single phase K700S and the K940S with Phase Perfect converter is just under $7,400. Feature wise I would gain the scoring unit status light, automatic rise / fall of scoring unit, 1.5 hp more, additional 350 lbs of weight and easy-lock on saw blade. These are the paper differences but I am sure in person there would be more tangible differences. ?The cost difference from the Kappa 400 X-Motion to K700S is additional $10,830. There is a big difference between my wants and needs ?
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I must admit I was kicking myself a bit for not taking some photos when I did this, not that its very difficult to remove the plate, just a few allen screws. But taking it back apart to look at it gave a little more info.?
I had put the low friction tape on the surface that contacts the wood, which turned out to not be especially durable. Its only been about a month of use since I put it on there and I could see that it was already getting pretty worn. So I removed it. Good news is, putting it all back together again still no singing noise, so it would seem the key modifications were those things that damned the vibration. I'll attach a photo to show what I did. The black material is drawer liner, stuck on with some spray adhesive. Then the cavity created by the final bend in the plate is filled with a bead of hot glue.?
In answer to your question Michael, I love the machine otherwise. In the past i've had separate machines (8 inch jointer, 15 inch planer both from Grizzly) which worked fine but took up more space, and I also had the Jet 12 inch combo machine with the helical head. That is a long story but I had many problems with that machine and ultimately after several service calls and technician visits that machine is gone. To Jet's credit, under the warranty they ended up refunding the purchase price of the machine (after several years of use) so that was good.?
After that bad experience with the Jet machine I went looking at the Hammer machines, and after talking to the rep about my past bad experiences with durability it wasn't hard for him to sway me in the direction of the Felder. I also got it with the power drive which not only makes change over from jointer to planer super easy (no turning a handle to get the table moved out of the way), it also makes it very easy to dial in exact thickness on the fly. When the machine was brand new I did have the slightest bit of snipe, but a quick conversation with the support folks in Delaware and I was able to tweak some things and now there is absolutely none.?
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Re: Thoughts on going from K500 P to K700 S
Mark, I have crunched all the numbers many times over the last several day and the difference between the single phase K700S and the K940S with Phase Perfect converter is just under $7,400. Feature wise I would gain the scoring unit status light, automatic rise / fall of scoring unit, 1.5 hp more, additional 350 lbs of weight and easy-lock on saw blade. These are the paper differences but I am sure in person there would be more tangible differences. ?The cost difference from the Kappa 400 X-Motion to K700S is additional $10,830. There is a big difference between my wants and needs ?
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Re: Machinery Choice and Workshop Layout
Hi Jason,?
I had separate jointer and planer in mind for a longer term arrangement. I actually have a Hammer A3 26 at the moment. I don’t find the change over too bad. Interesting that you’d prioritise separating the jointing and planing over the saw and shaper. It would be nice to go for a full 630mm planer though which is what I would get if I went separates.?
Thanks?
Michael?
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imran
Tom Gensmer
David P. Best
JP Rice