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Neither one of those t-nuts will meet the requirements. You need two set-screws to anchor the T-nut in the slider, and counterbores at each end so you can reverse the T-nut for leveling with grub

I am meeting tomorrow with the metal shop guy to discuss the final details. The new T-nut is still faulty and doesn’t register properly. Here is a comparison between the two. ill give more detials

Say more - I don’t understand. I was wondering today if you’d gotten a quote for the T-nut and how you were moving forward on this. David Best DBestWorkshop@...

With these two adjustment points you should be able to get the feeder tires perfectly aligned to be coplanar to the cast iron top: ? David Best DBestWorkshop@...

By the way, they also changed a bit the T nut that secured the short cross cut fence.

That “thumbscrew” looks to me like the element you called out in the parts diagram. That device secures the tension end-stop lock for the belt when the motor is articulated fully back and the belt

For the complainer, I don’t see the 2nd lever you refer to. i only have 3 lever there, one that control the tilt, but it has a fix indexing ping that prevent it from doing small increments. the 2nd

This is the thumb screw . 2)Just to make sure we are talking about the same thing, I am not referring to the picture you attached where you move the PF, but to move the base that is attached to the

Show a photo of the “thumb screw” you found in the wrapping please.

I am setting up my shaper and I faced couple of issues with the process. 1) When I picked up the machine from the warehouse and when I stopped to charge my truck I found a thumb screw in the machine

If you build your uppers with a 1/4" back with nailers, then you can route a space for a 1x4 to sit under your nailer. This is how I typically hang my uppers. I can do all the prep work of fixing a

Sorry if this is too simplified….cut in a 1X6 into the drywall at the top and bottom (which would necessitate removing a bit of each stud as well) or use half inch ply and cut that in to the

John, This is how I connected my RL200 with Nordfab. I think I used a coupler over the RL200 flange, then a cut off 5’ section of pipe coupled to the 90. Joe

I have used similar that I get from Hafele for years on many cabinet installs. It works well as long as you can catch enought studs or have blocking in the walls. Mollybolts on an end if you

Air Handling systems contact Ka martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330 cell airtightclamps@... airtightclamps.com

Hi All Any suggested/recommended hardware for hanging kitchen wall cabinets? Ideally I would like to install a steel rail to the wall, picking up the studs, and then make minor alterations on the

Just ordered the right part from our handling systems talk to Kay martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330 cell airtightclamps@...

Hi Andrew, There’s a rivet, but the head isn’t large and is under a lot of caulk/epoxy gunk at the seal at the bottom of the inlet. (Dear Felder, this could be a lot cleaner.) The adapter fit has

I agree with Brett. The EGL should be solid in all positions. You mention calibrating. Using a dial indicator against the fence in the 90 degree position is a good way to calibrate. Use a magnetic

John, When the egl is adjusted to fit your slider, there should be a strip on low-friction material on each leg of the 90-degrees barely contacting table. I found I had to fiddle with the bracket set