On 03/06/2021 01:38, Sdippert@... wrote: Is there any reason to unlock the rollers on the planer don't you want them always hooked up. When planing yes, when jointing no. Kind regards, Jonathan
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Re: Door tooling and jigs
PC Hinge jig-click see all buying options at right
The Bosche hinge jigs are my preference. I've had both. More accurate than the PC, as the jig doesn't happen to be flipped upside down to move from door to jamb. Originally sold as Stanley, they're the same jigs. Unfortunately, they are no longer manufactured.
Templaco Bore master kits (best made) and other templates/tools???
If doing a bunch of the same doors, Templaco will make custom hinge jigs:?
If there are good door and jamb suppliers anywhere nearby, see what they have for fixed hinge jigs.
The Porter Cable 126 Porta Plane, with spiral carbide blades is the best door planer by miles. Also, no longer available, but now that most door people just use pre-hung and split jamb doors, with patience they can be found used..
Happy hunting,
Lance
?Hi all I am looking for the following tooling that I had as a kid and made the stupid mistake of selling back in the day.
i do believe they are long out of production but maybe some of you might have one laying around you want to sell or can give a recommendation on something equal or better.
This is what i had, dont have part #"s
Porter cable door boring jig, it did 2-3/8, 2-3/4, Dills of 1-5/8 and 2-1/4"? it was a great set and easy to use.
Porter cable Hinge routing template set, it was 4 templates adjustable 3.5 4.0 4.5 and i believe 5"? It had bars to hook it all together and i could do 6/8 7/0 & 8/0 doors easy.
and last
Porter cable bevel planer, it was good and I really can do this on my machines, I would buy it anyway for specific tasks.
I guess the local door shop is not doing well and I am getting a lot of requests hang doors, luckily I know this well as I owned a door shop for 10 years?
i am looking to get the basics and see how this goes before I break down and get a Norfield Magnum.
If you have any of these you want to unload, I am interested, Or if you
know of better stuff, I would would like to hear.
Thanks in advance
Glen
Never thought I was going down this path again.
|
Re: Door tooling and jigs
Mac, do recall if that was from Norfield or Northfield, I would like to do some digging and see what I can find. Glen
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 6:14 PM Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression < airtightclamps@...> wrote: Northfield had a nice jig that held the jamb on the door edge and you routed both at ounce , not sure they still make but lot less than a magnum Designing and building for 50 years ?Hi all I am looking for the following tooling that I had as a kid and made the stupid mistake of selling back in the day.
i do believe they are long out of production but maybe some of you might have one laying around you want to sell or can give a recommendation on something equal or better.
This is what i had, dont have part #"s
Porter cable door boring jig, it did 2-3/8, 2-3/4, Dills of 1-5/8 and 2-1/4"? it was a great set and easy to use.
Porter cable Hinge routing template set, it was 4 templates adjustable 3.5 4.0 4.5 and i believe 5"? It had bars to hook it all together and i could do 6/8 7/0 & 8/0 doors easy.
and last
Porter cable bevel planer, it was good and I really can do this on my machines, I would buy it anyway for specific tasks.
I guess the local door shop is not doing well and I am getting a lot of requests hang doors, luckily I know this well as I owned a door shop for 10 years?
i am looking to get the basics and see how this goes before I break down and get a Norfield Magnum.
If you have any of these you want to unload, I am interested, Or if you
know of better stuff, I would would like to hear.
Thanks in advance
Glen
Never thought I was going down this path again.
|
Thanks for all the positive feedback about the shop - much appreciated. ?I do have to say that sanding the floor with a 4” Bosch handheld belt sander was certainly the highlight of the past two months. ?There were so many times when I wished Lucky were here again to enjoy the process with me. ?LOL ?At 73 now, I think we’ll hire it out next time.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 2, 2021, at 4:50 PM, David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi David B.:
I just had a chance to watch your shop tour on YouTube. Quite frankly, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a better use of space, ever. I’ve stood in your shop and thought then, and am now reminded with this video, just how carefully and densely packed is every corner. I guess I can’t complain about the size of my space!
Although I like my high ceilings, I am jealous of the ability to store items overhead, right to hand. I need to implement that idea of using some of my “shop air” by bringing struts down from my 3200mm ceiling and building some shelving to store items, attach magnetic tool holders, etc.
David, I laughed out loud when you said your Oneway Lathe does not see much use. Well, not when it is facing backwards to the wall! LOL
Thanks for making and sharing the video. Loved it.
Lucky
Here is the link to my latest book - yet another Survival Guide, this time on indexable tooling for the metal lathe:
I dont do much with metal but keep running into things where it would help - my son is spending more time with metal now, what is the name of the book - sounds like a perfect gift On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 8:42 AM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
That place is so clean I'm embarrassed to look at my stuff.?
For those interested in metalworking, David has written a book on tooling that is outstanding.? I'm new to metalworking and was desperate for information to decipher the insert, tooling, and million other codes needed to get started.? Best's book is the best.?
Dave
Really nice!!!
On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 7:49 AM imranindiana via
<imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote:
--
--
|
Re: Door tooling and jigs
Mac, I prefer a Pol Roger or Louis Roederer “Magnum” myself.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 3 Jun 2021, at 11:14 am, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression <airtightclamps@...> wrote:
? Northfield had a nice jig that held the jamb on the door edge and you routed both at ounce , not sure they still make but lot less than a magnum Designing and building for 50 years On Jun 2, 2021, at 7:57 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
?Hi all I am looking for the following tooling that I had as a kid and made the stupid mistake of selling back in the day.
i do believe they are long out of production but maybe some of you might have one laying around you want to sell or can give a recommendation on something equal or better.
This is what i had, dont have part #"s
Porter cable door boring jig, it did 2-3/8, 2-3/4, Dills of 1-5/8 and 2-1/4"? it was a great set and easy to use.
Porter cable Hinge routing template set, it was 4 templates adjustable 3.5 4.0 4.5 and i believe 5"? It had bars to hook it all together and i could do 6/8 7/0 & 8/0 doors easy.
and last
Porter cable bevel planer, it was good and I really can do this on my machines, I would buy it anyway for specific tasks.
I guess the local door shop is not doing well and I am getting a lot of requests hang doors, luckily I know this well as I owned a door shop for 10 years?
i am looking to get the basics and see how this goes before I break down and get a Norfield Magnum.
If you have any of these you want to unload, I am interested, Or if you
know of better stuff, I would would like to hear.
Thanks in advance
Glen
Never thought I was going down this path again.
|
Re: Door tooling and jigs
Northfield had a nice jig that held the jamb on the door edge and you routed both at ounce , not sure they still make but lot less than a magnum Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jun 2, 2021, at 7:57 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote:
?Hi all I am looking for the following tooling that I had as a kid and made the stupid mistake of selling back in the day.
i do believe they are long out of production but maybe some of you might have one laying around you want to sell or can give a recommendation on something equal or better.
This is what i had, dont have part #"s
Porter cable door boring jig, it did 2-3/8, 2-3/4, Dills of 1-5/8 and 2-1/4"? it was a great set and easy to use.
Porter cable Hinge routing template set, it was 4 templates adjustable 3.5 4.0 4.5 and i believe 5"? It had bars to hook it all together and i could do 6/8 7/0 & 8/0 doors easy.
and last
Porter cable bevel planer, it was good and I really can do this on my machines, I would buy it anyway for specific tasks.
I guess the local door shop is not doing well and I am getting a lot of requests hang doors, luckily I know this well as I owned a door shop for 10 years?
i am looking to get the basics and see how this goes before I break down and get a Norfield Magnum.
If you have any of these you want to unload, I am interested, Or if you
know of better stuff, I would would like to hear.
Thanks in advance
Glen
Never thought I was going down this path again.
|
Hi all I am looking for the following tooling that I had as a kid and made the stupid mistake of selling back in the day.
i do believe they are long out of production but maybe some of you might have one laying around you want to sell or can give a recommendation on something equal or better.
This is what i had, dont have part #"s
Porter cable door boring jig, it did 2-3/8, 2-3/4, Dills of 1-5/8 and 2-1/4"? it was a great set and easy to use.
Porter cable Hinge routing template set, it was 4 templates adjustable 3.5 4.0 4.5 and i believe 5"? It had bars to hook it all together and i could do 6/8 7/0 & 8/0 doors easy.
and last
Porter cable bevel planer, it was good and I really can do this on my machines, I would buy it anyway for specific tasks.
I guess the local door shop is not doing well and I am getting a lot of requests hang doors, luckily I know this well as I owned a door shop for 10 years?
i am looking to get the basics and see how this goes before I break down and get a Norfield Magnum.
If you have any of these you want to unload, I am interested, Or if you
know of better stuff, I would would like to hear.
Thanks in advance
Glen
Never thought I was going down this path again.
|
Is there any reason to unlock the rollers on the planer don't you want them always hooked up.?
Steve
|
David B, Thank you for that shop video, You are great at fitting that amount of tooling in your space and making it workable and usable. I know how detailed you are and I am very impressed. I also know that I will never post a video of my shop because It is far from clean and well thought out as yours. But you give me inspiration to take some time this winter and maybe improve my mess. Thank you, I really enjoyed that. Glen ? .
Alpine Moulding and Millwork Inc.
Mail: ?? P.O. Box 486
?????????? Murphys , CA. 95247 Shop: 441 Pennsylvania Gulch Road ????????? Murphys, CA. 95247
????????? 209-540-7501
LIC # 707507
On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 4:50 PM David Luckensmeyer < dhluckens@...> wrote: Hi David B.:
I just had a chance to watch your shop tour on YouTube. Quite frankly, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a better use of space, ever. I’ve stood in your shop and thought then, and am now reminded with this video, just how carefully and densely packed is every corner. I guess I can’t complain about the size of my space!
Although I like my high ceilings, I am jealous of the ability to store items overhead, right to hand. I need to implement that idea of using some of my “shop air” by bringing struts down from my 3200mm ceiling and building some shelving to store items, attach magnetic tool holders, etc.
David, I laughed out loud when you said your Oneway Lathe does not see much use. Well, not when it is facing backwards to the wall! LOL
Thanks for making and sharing the video. Loved it.
Lucky
Here is the link to my latest book - yet another Survival Guide, this time on indexable tooling for the metal lathe:
I dont do much with metal but keep running into things where it would help - my son is spending more time with metal now, what is the name of the book - sounds like a perfect gift On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 8:42 AM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
That place is so clean I'm embarrassed to look at my stuff.?
For those interested in metalworking, David has written a book on tooling that is outstanding.? I'm new to metalworking and was desperate for information to decipher the insert, tooling, and million other codes needed to get started.? Best's book is the best.?
Dave
Really nice!!!
On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 7:49 AM imranindiana via
<imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote:
--
--
|
Re: Sometimes digressions are worth it
a few pic that I could find 
|
Re: Sometimes digressions are worth it
Greenlee made some great machinery.? I have their 356 vertical borer from the 1920s and it still works wonderfully.? My 1925 pocket catalog shows what looks like the machine in the article or a later version of it.? Also a picture of my 356.? Dave
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Show quoted text
No its not related to Felder, but some here will find something in this great story...If you only want to read on Felder this can be skipped
as a digression, but sometimes digressions are worth it?
1910 Greenlee Variety Woodworker
it deserves to be read and disussed and homage paid.
Rare woodworking machine restored in Kalispell heads to Smithsonian museum
by Vanessa Perez
Thursday, May 27th 2021
KALISPELL, Mont. — A rare Greenlee woodworking machine used in a Montana copper shop is now headed to a Smithsonian museum.
Steve Williams runs his Kalispell woodworking shop where he restores vintage machines to factory new conditions.
Williams says he’s had an ad on Craigslist for vintage woodworking machines wanted.
Three years ago, he got a phone call from a man in Chester, who had the 16-inch jointer machine. It had been sitting in a crate at his brother-in-law’s commercial farm near the Canadian border.
The machine does a variety of woodworking functions in an industrial environment.
Williams bought the machine and brought it back to Kalispell. He says he did research and found that the machine was originally purchased new by the Anaconda Copper Company in Great Falls in 1910.
Williams says he’s a part of a 20,000-member worldwide organization that's fascinated with woodworking machinery. He says the organization is confident that the machine is the last one in the world.
“There has been no mention of an existing machine, and one of us would know -- absolutely one of us would know,” Williams said.
Williams says he put in about 1,500 hours to restore the machine.
He says he notified the machine’s company, now owned by Emerson, about his plans to restore it.
“I just wanted them to know that this machine was still in existence, and it was going to have a new future,” Williams said.
He says the Smithsonian found out about the rare machine and showed interest a few weeks later.
Emerson provided the funding for the restoration, and the Smithsonian agreed to add it to their permanent collection at the National Museum of Industrial History Museum.
“They liked the idea of this machine because it was so unique, so rare, and had a great history -- great Montana history,” Williams said.
website
Our StorListen to our latest NPR interview here:
The 1910 Greenlee Variety Woodworker
I am Steve Williams. I’m a 72 year old Vietnam Vet who lives in Kalispell Montana. I operate a wood shop specializing in the reproduction of woodwork for historic buildings. I’ve also been restoring vintage woodworking machinery for 30 years. My machinery,
like me is vintage… It’s restored to factory new condition and I use it every day.......more
please add any thoughts/comments.? Supposedly this 16" jointer weighs in at 3 tons?
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Re: Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
I don’t have a good way to measure the stiffness.? The new outer and the old spring wire is the same dimension and the same number of turns.? The new
inners is not nearly as stiff as it’s a lot smaller wire.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Wednesday, June 2, 2021 4:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
?
Joe, is the new spring more or less stiff than the old one?? My oliver 217 will tension a trimaster but I didn't see the spring when it was off so I don't know the dimensions.? My Yates 20" spring
was very weak and i put a new $20 one from Iturra on it.? I have experimented with various settings and a Trimaster will saw decently at lower tension but 25K is the sweet spot when resawing wide stock.? What are the inner, outer, and length dimensions?? Dave
The original spring was a single spring.? The new one is two springs. An outer one the same size as the original and a smaller diameter one wound from
square wire that fits inside the old spring.? Later I will put a dial indicator on the arm to see how much deflection I get.? I also wound if my Starrett is accurate but it’s a really simple device, two clamps and a dial indicators so I don’t know how it could
go out of calibration.
?
?
Hi Joe:
I don’t have a tension gauge but have set up many bandsaws over the years, often with the Trimaster blade you reference. I’m sure you set up many yourself as well.?
I find that while the Trimaster will resaw adequately at lower tensions (eg. at the appropriate 25mm tension on the inbuilt gauge of my Felder FB540), it resaws significantly smoother and faster when I ramp up the tension (eg. so tight
the Felder gauge becomes completely unusable as it goes well beyond the highest setting). I’ve done the same with an FB510 and an FB600 and my old Wadkin DR36, among others. The saw and blade performs demonstrably better at high tensions, whatever those tensions
may be.?
It is interesting that the new spring maxes out. The spring on my Wadkin is way too weak as well and I need something much stiffer - I just haven’t gotten around to it. This begs the question: perhaps the carbide
modern blades are beyond the tension-ability of the springs on older saws? Your tannewitz advice may be true for older, non carbide bands? I wonder. David K or Mac, any insights here?
?The restoration is complete. I received the new $170 tension springs from Tannewitz and alas the new spring is also fully compressed at 12,000 PSI per my Starrett bandsaw tension gauge with a 1” Lennox trimaster . ?I spoke with Tannewitz
when I first bought the saw and the guy there told me blade tension specs were nonsense and to use the flutter method. I don’t yet have a fence and have not rigged up a temp so I don’t know well it cuts. What say you all?
|
Hi David B.:
I just had a chance to watch your shop tour on YouTube. Quite frankly, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a better use of space, ever. I’ve stood in your shop and thought then, and am now reminded with this video, just how carefully and densely packed is every corner. I guess I can’t complain about the size of my space!
Although I like my high ceilings, I am jealous of the ability to store items overhead, right to hand. I need to implement that idea of using some of my “shop air” by bringing struts down from my 3200mm ceiling and building some shelving to store items, attach magnetic tool holders, etc.
David, I laughed out loud when you said your Oneway Lathe does not see much use. Well, not when it is facing backwards to the wall! LOL
Thanks for making and sharing the video. Loved it.
Lucky
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Here is the link to my latest book - yet another Survival Guide, this time on indexable tooling for the metal lathe:
I dont do much with metal but keep running into things where it would help - my son is spending more time with metal now, what is the name of the book - sounds like a perfect gift On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 8:42 AM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
That place is so clean I'm embarrassed to look at my stuff.?
For those interested in metalworking, David has written a book on tooling that is outstanding.? I'm new to metalworking and was desperate for information to decipher the insert, tooling, and million other codes needed to get started.? Best's book is the best.?
Dave
Really nice!!!
On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 7:49 AM imranindiana via
<imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote:
--
--
|
Re: Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Luckensmeyer
Sent: Wednesday, June 2, 2021 3:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
?
Hi Joe:
Maybe do some experimental sawing at different tensions, including the “12,000” PSI and see how good the cuts are?
Lucky
?
The original spring was a single spring.? The new one is two springs. An outer one the same size as the original and a smaller diameter one wound from
square wire that fits inside the old spring.? Later I will put a dial indicator on the arm to see how much deflection I get.? I also wound if my Starrett is accurate but it’s a really simple device, two clamps and a dial indicators so I don’t know how it could
go out of calibration.
?
?
Hi Joe:
I don’t have a tension gauge but have set up many bandsaws over the years, often with the Trimaster blade you reference. I’m sure you set up many yourself as well.?
I find that while the Trimaster will resaw adequately at lower tensions (eg. at the appropriate 25mm tension on the inbuilt gauge of my Felder FB540), it resaws significantly smoother and faster when I ramp up the tension (eg. so tight
the Felder gauge becomes completely unusable as it goes well beyond the highest setting). I’ve done the same with an FB510 and an FB600 and my old Wadkin DR36, among others. The saw and blade performs demonstrably better at high tensions, whatever those tensions
may be.?
It is interesting that the new spring maxes out. The spring on my Wadkin is way too weak as well and I need something much stiffer - I just haven’t gotten around to it. This begs the question: perhaps the carbide
modern blades are beyond the tension-ability of the springs on older saws? Your tannewitz advice may be true for older, non carbide bands? I wonder. David K or Mac, any insights here?
?The restoration is complete. I received the new $170 tension springs from Tannewitz and alas the new spring is also fully compressed at 12,000 PSI per my Starrett bandsaw tension gauge with a 1” Lennox trimaster . ?I spoke with Tannewitz
when I first bought the saw and the guy there told me blade tension specs were nonsense and to use the flutter method. I don’t yet have a fence and have not rigged up a temp so I don’t know well it cuts. What say you all?
?
|
Re: Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
Joe, is the new spring more or less stiff than the old one?? My oliver 217 will tension a trimaster but I didn't see the spring when it was off so I don't know the dimensions.? My Yates 20" spring was very weak and i put a new $20 one from Iturra on it.? I
have experimented with various settings and a Trimaster will saw decently at lower tension but 25K is the sweet spot when resawing wide stock.? What are the inner, outer, and length dimensions?? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The original spring was a single spring.? The new one is two springs. An outer one the same size as the original and a smaller diameter one wound from square wire that
fits inside the old spring.? Later I will put a dial indicator on the arm to see how much deflection I get.? I also wound if my Starrett is accurate but it’s a really simple device, two clamps and a dial indicators so I don’t know how it could go out of calibration.
?
?
Hi Joe:
I don’t have a tension gauge but have set up many bandsaws over the years, often with the Trimaster blade you reference. I’m sure you set up many yourself as well.?
I find that while the Trimaster will resaw adequately at lower tensions (eg. at the appropriate 25mm tension on the inbuilt gauge of my Felder FB540), it resaws significantly smoother and faster when I ramp up the tension (eg. so tight the Felder gauge becomes
completely unusable as it goes well beyond the highest setting). I’ve done the same with an FB510 and an FB600 and my old Wadkin DR36, among others. The saw and blade performs demonstrably better at high tensions, whatever those tensions may be.?
It is interesting that the new spring maxes out. The spring on my Wadkin is way too weak as well and I need something much stiffer - I just haven’t gotten around to it. This begs the question: perhaps the carbide modern blades are beyond the tension-ability
of the springs on older saws? Your tannewitz advice may be true for older, non carbide bands? I wonder. David K or Mac, any insights here?
?The restoration is complete. I received the new $170 tension springs from Tannewitz and alas the new spring is also fully compressed at 12,000 PSI per my Starrett bandsaw tension gauge with a 1” Lennox trimaster . ?I spoke with Tannewitz when I first bought
the saw and the guy there told me blade tension specs were nonsense and to use the flutter method. I don’t yet have a fence and have not rigged up a temp so I don’t know well it cuts. What say you all?
|
Re: Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
I think the proof is in the cutting… never had a tension gage and never worried about it. Of course I use an old Inca three wheeler and just buy bimetal blades, they last me a couple years each, and cost like $17 a piece. I’ve done quite a bit of resaw up to about 9” tall in hard maple, works, not the fastest, but I don’t have a huge amount of hp either.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The original spring was a single spring.? The new one is two springs. An outer one the same size as the original and a smaller diameter one wound from
square wire that fits inside the old spring.? Later I will put a dial indicator on the arm to see how much deflection I get.? I also wound if my Starrett is accurate but it’s a really simple device, two clamps and a dial indicators so I don’t know how it could
go out of calibration. ?
? Hi Joe:
I don’t have a tension gauge but have set up many bandsaws over the years, often with the Trimaster blade you reference. I’m sure you set up many yourself as well.?
I find that while the Trimaster will resaw adequately at lower tensions (eg. at the appropriate 25mm tension on the inbuilt gauge of my Felder FB540), it resaws significantly smoother and faster when I ramp up the tension (eg. so tight
the Felder gauge becomes completely unusable as it goes well beyond the highest setting). I’ve done the same with an FB510 and an FB600 and my old Wadkin DR36, among others. The saw and blade performs demonstrably better at high tensions, whatever those tensions
may be.?
It is interesting that the new spring maxes out. The spring on my Wadkin is way too weak as well and I need something much stiffer - I just haven’t gotten around to it. This begs the question: perhaps the carbide
modern blades are beyond the tension-ability of the springs on older saws? Your tannewitz advice may be true for older, non carbide bands? I wonder. David K or Mac, any insights here?
?The restoration is complete. I received the new $170 tension springs from Tannewitz and alas the new spring is also fully compressed at 12,000 PSI per my Starrett bandsaw tension gauge with a 1” Lennox trimaster . ?I spoke with Tannewitz
when I first bought the saw and the guy there told me blade tension specs were nonsense and to use the flutter method. I don’t yet have a fence and have not rigged up a temp so I don’t know well it cuts. What say you all?
|
Re: Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
Hi Joe:
Maybe do some experimental sawing at different tensions, including the “12,000” PSI and see how good the cuts are?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
The original spring was a single spring.? The new one is two springs. An outer one the same size as the original and a smaller diameter one wound from
square wire that fits inside the old spring.? Later I will put a dial indicator on the arm to see how much deflection I get.? I also wound if my Starrett is accurate but it’s a really simple device, two clamps and a dial indicators so I don’t know how it could
go out of calibration. ?
? Hi Joe:
I don’t have a tension gauge but have set up many bandsaws over the years, often with the Trimaster blade you reference. I’m sure you set up many yourself as well.?
I find that while the Trimaster will resaw adequately at lower tensions (eg. at the appropriate 25mm tension on the inbuilt gauge of my Felder FB540), it resaws significantly smoother and faster when I ramp up the tension (eg. so tight
the Felder gauge becomes completely unusable as it goes well beyond the highest setting). I’ve done the same with an FB510 and an FB600 and my old Wadkin DR36, among others. The saw and blade performs demonstrably better at high tensions, whatever those tensions
may be.?
It is interesting that the new spring maxes out. The spring on my Wadkin is way too weak as well and I need something much stiffer - I just haven’t gotten around to it. This begs the question: perhaps the carbide
modern blades are beyond the tension-ability of the springs on older saws? Your tannewitz advice may be true for older, non carbide bands? I wonder. David K or Mac, any insights here?
?The restoration is complete. I received the new $170 tension springs from Tannewitz and alas the new spring is also fully compressed at 12,000 PSI per my Starrett bandsaw tension gauge with a 1” Lennox trimaster . ?I spoke with Tannewitz
when I first bought the saw and the guy there told me blade tension specs were nonsense and to use the flutter method. I don’t yet have a fence and have not rigged up a temp so I don’t know well it cuts. What say you all?
|
Re: Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
The original spring was a single spring.? The new one is two springs. An outer one the same size as the original and a smaller diameter one wound from
square wire that fits inside the old spring.? Later I will put a dial indicator on the arm to see how much deflection I get.? I also wound if my Starrett is accurate but it’s a really simple device, two clamps and a dial indicators so I don’t know how it could
go out of calibration.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Luckensmeyer
Sent: Wednesday, June 2, 2021 2:40 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
?
Hi Joe:
I don’t have a tension gauge but have set up many bandsaws over the years, often with the Trimaster blade you reference. I’m sure you set up many yourself as well.?
I find that while the Trimaster will resaw adequately at lower tensions (eg. at the appropriate 25mm tension on the inbuilt gauge of my Felder FB540), it resaws significantly smoother and faster when I ramp up the tension (eg. so tight
the Felder gauge becomes completely unusable as it goes well beyond the highest setting). I’ve done the same with an FB510 and an FB600 and my old Wadkin DR36, among others. The saw and blade performs demonstrably better at high tensions, whatever those tensions
may be.?
It is interesting that the new spring maxes out. The spring on my Wadkin is way too weak as well and I need something much stiffer - I just haven’t gotten around to it. This begs the question: perhaps the carbide
modern blades are beyond the tension-ability of the springs on older saws? Your tannewitz advice may be true for older, non carbide bands? I wonder. David K or Mac, any insights here?
?The restoration is complete. I received the new $170 tension springs from Tannewitz and alas the new spring is also fully compressed at 12,000 PSI per my Starrett bandsaw tension gauge with a 1” Lennox trimaster . ?I spoke with Tannewitz
when I first bought the saw and the guy there told me blade tension specs were nonsense and to use the flutter method. I don’t yet have a fence and have not rigged up a temp so I don’t know well it cuts. What say you all?
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Re: Tannewitz PH 32” Bandsaw Blade tension questions
Hi Joe:
I don’t have a tension gauge but have set up many bandsaws over the years, often with the Trimaster blade you reference. I’m sure you set up many yourself as well.?
I find that while the Trimaster will resaw adequately at lower tensions (eg. at the appropriate 25mm tension on the inbuilt gauge of my Felder FB540), it resaws significantly smoother and faster when I ramp up the tension (eg. so tight the Felder gauge becomes completely unusable as it goes well beyond the highest setting). I’ve done the same with an FB510 and an FB600 and my old Wadkin DR36, among others. The saw and blade performs demonstrably better at high tensions, whatever those tensions may be.?
It is interesting that the new spring maxes out. The spring on my Wadkin is way too weak as well and I need something much stiffer - I just haven’t gotten around to it. This begs the question: perhaps the carbide modern blades are beyond the tension-ability of the springs on older saws? Your tannewitz advice may be true for older, non carbide bands? I wonder. David K or Mac, any insights here?
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On 3 Jun 2021, at 6:47 am, Joe Jensen <joe.jensen@...> wrote:
?The restoration is complete. I received the new $170 tension springs from Tannewitz and alas the new spring is also fully compressed at 12,000 PSI per my Starrett bandsaw tension gauge with a 1” Lennox trimaster . ?I spoke with Tannewitz when I first bought the saw and the guy there told me blade tension specs were nonsense and to use the flutter method. I don’t yet have a fence and have not rigged up a temp so I don’t know well it cuts. What say you all?
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Re: Sometimes digressions are worth it
Never used in all that time because the only warrantable 3 phase converter to power it was a Phase Perfect, and it hadn't been invented yet, so it sat in the box and waited! Lol. -- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Jonathan Martens
David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer
Joe Jensen
