Re: Problem with Delivery of new Felder K770S
When I went to take delivery of my K700s in late September my heart sank when I saw the slider pallet. As the picture shows one end was damaged and the box had rips in it. After opening that end of box and finding only one very small ding I noted and photographed the damage and accepted the pallet. The saw pallet was undamaged.
The 2x4’s that ring the pallet are simply huge magnets for any number of things to grab hold of while being being whisked along at 15-20mph. These slider pallets hardly stand a chance! The good news is all was good with the slider during commissioning yesterday (separate thread).
Steve Krasovich
|
Re: Problem with Delivery of new Felder K770S
Bill: that's the most pristine machinery pallet I've ever seen, and I've received literally tons of them. My latest saw hiccup fortunately turned out okay once fully investigated, but it is the first time I ever was in a position of possible refusal, so I'd say yes, guys, you're right. The few bad ones are far outweighed by the successful ones. Just be sure to inspect ANYTHING that doesn't look as good as Bill's crate did. It is your right, I'm told.?
jeff
|
Re: Martin Fritz and Franz Jig For Sale
Scott, I don't blame you!
Larry
|
Awesome news Seamus. Yes always suggest looking for the simple stuff. If I guess, I imagine ~75% if no start reported here are stop switch related.
Since 24VAC circuit is normally open on a good machine, it is difficult to trouble shoot your case (high resistance switch) as voltage will appear normal. I believe input impedance of a typical DVM is in megaohms.
BTW, call Felder for a wiring schematic if your machine. They are very helpful.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 6, 2022, at 2:08 PM, S.Ryan <seamieryan@...> wrote: ?Hi Imran...
So I went ahead and built up another S/D starter for this saw with contactors and timers I had lying around,,, worked great on the bench...
so when I disconnected the Felder PCB from the machine to install my new starter, I was buzzing out the cables to see what was what, emo, saw blade cover etc etc.
Then I disovered the Stop button (which should be normally closed) had a resistance of about 1k, so clearly there was something amiss there.... so I decided then I'd give it the benefit of the doubt and reinstalled the Felder board again, but with a new Stop button.? Bingo.? It worked straight away... so the lesson here is to check out the basic stuff first!!!
All that said, I'd still love to have drawings for this, you'd never know when a guy would need them.
Thanks so much for your insights on this problem Imran... if I ever find drawings, I will upload them to the files section for sure.
Seamus
|
Re: Martin Fritz and Franz Jig For Sale
Larry, thanks for your inquiry. ? For now I have decided to keep the jig and try and develop better ways to quickly install and set precise angles.
Scott
|
Hi Imran...
So I went ahead and built up another S/D starter for this saw with contactors and timers I had lying around,,, worked great on the bench...
so when I disconnected the Felder PCB from the machine to install my new starter, I was buzzing out the cables to see what was what, emo, saw blade cover etc etc.
Then I disovered the Stop button (which should be normally closed) had a resistance of about 1k, so clearly there was something amiss there.... so I decided then I'd give it the benefit of the doubt and reinstalled the Felder board again, but with a new Stop button.? Bingo.? It worked straight away... so the lesson here is to check out the basic stuff first!!!
All that said, I'd still love to have drawings for this, you'd never know when a guy would need them.
Thanks so much for your insights on this problem Imran... if I ever find drawings, I will upload them to the files section for sure.
Seamus
|
Grizzly Universal Overarm Blade Guard
I know some here have used this to add overarm blade guard capability to their Felder machine. I am sure it won’t go for $25 (plus auction fee) but could be a good deal for someone near Tracy, CA. Grizzly currently sells it for $415.
Grizzly "T10113" Universal Overarm Blade Guard
Imran?
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
Whenever I put the cutterhead on the shaper, I follow the following instruction.
James
On Thu, Jan 6, 2022 at 10:41 AM David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
The top spacer has to be enough above the spindle so the recessed rim of the cap contacts it when tightened down.? There can be times when everything appears tight but the cap is contacting the center of the spindle but the rim isn't putting enough pressure
on the spacers.? Dave
Glen,
Sorry to hear about this accident.? I'm trying to understand what you mean when you say that the last spacer was above the top of the shaft.? So the cutterhead was mounted on the spindle, perhaps some spacers below it, then you had spacers on top of the cutter
head stacked to a height such that top of the spindle was below the top of the spacers?? So the top-most spacer wasn't fully in contact with the spindle?
|
Hi Seamus,
As I was putting the schematics back it occurred to me that my schematic is for 3KW & 4KW machines. Yours being 5.5KW is going to be different due to star delta, etc.
On my dual51 (7.35KW) I cannot hear the star-delta working but on my K975 (5.5KW), I can easily hear the switch. In fact, I was told by Felder once the machine is on, do not turn it off until I hear the relay switch. According to them, it could hurt the brake board.
Anyhow, your machine is going to be different due to this reason. When I had a brake issue on K975, the Felder tech walked me thru relay switching to determine what is wrong. Hopefully, they can help you diagnose it as well.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 5, 2022, at 9:34 AM, S.Ryan <seamieryan@...> wrote: ?Hi Imran,
Strange that the two machines are so different considering the same build year.? At least K1 is identified in your drawing, the four contactors in mine are not identified on any drawing I've seen, plus, they seem to be fitted in a kind of socket thats soldered to the board.? I'd much prefer your wiring design, as its easier follow whats connected to what.? There is even some kind of microcontroller or pic or something on this board, maybe the star/delta timing or phase monitoring by the current transformers is monitored by that... I'm not sure.? ?I think I'll end up building a new S/D starter on a DIN rail with regular contactors and put it into the saw panel and carry on...At the end of the day, its only a motor - all this fancy PCB stuff is a bit overkill....of course I'd be losing the brake.... but as things stand, the brake is no use if it doesn't run in the first place!
Thanks for your information so far Imran
Seamus
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
David, it just sold. Thanks for your interest. Ted
Sent from my ASUS
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
-------- Original Message -------- From:David Kumm Sent:Thu, 06 Jan 2022 10:41:48 -0500 To: [email protected]Subject:Re: [FOG] I need a little shaper help
The top spacer has to be enough above the spindle so the recessed rim of the cap contacts it when tightened down.? There can be times when everything appears tight but the cap is contacting the center of the spindle but the rim isn't putting enough pressure
on the spacers.? Dave
Glen,
Sorry to hear about this accident.? I'm trying to understand what you mean when you say that the last spacer was above the top of the shaft.? So the cutterhead was mounted on the spindle, perhaps some spacers below it, then you had spacers on top of the cutter
head stacked to a height such that top of the spindle was below the top of the spacers?? So the top-most spacer wasn't fully in contact with the spindle?
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
The top spacer has to be enough above the spindle so the recessed rim of the cap contacts it when tightened down.? There can be times when everything appears tight but the cap is contacting the center of the spindle but the rim isn't putting enough pressure
on the spacers.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Glen,
Sorry to hear about this accident.? I'm trying to understand what you mean when you say that the last spacer was above the top of the shaft.? So the cutterhead was mounted on the spindle, perhaps some spacers below it, then you had spacers on top of the cutter
head stacked to a height such that top of the spindle was below the top of the spacers?? So the top-most spacer wasn't fully in contact with the spindle?
|
Re: I need a little shaper help
Glen,
Sorry to hear about this accident.? I'm trying to understand what you mean when you say that the last spacer was above the top of the shaft.? So the cutterhead was mounted on the spindle, perhaps some spacers below it, then you had spacers on top of the cutter head stacked to a height such that top of the spindle was below the top of the spacers?? So the top-most spacer wasn't fully in contact with the spindle?
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
Interesting. Good to know.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 6, 2022, at 7:54 AM, David Sabo via groups.io <sabo_dave@...> wrote: ? An inexpensive, off the shelf, adjustable system has been available for a decade or more.?
Dave
Sent from my iEye On Jan 6, 2022, at 7:15 AM, Terence via groups.io <terencewoolston@...> wrote:
? David: ?Nicely done on the cherry cabinet. ?Terry
Glen, have a look at the adjustable shelf pull-out system I came up with for a client. ??
The goal here was to have adjustable height pull-out shelves behind doors that are hung with butt hinges. ?The client insisted that the shelves pull out full extension with the doors only open to 95°. ?On this job, the client had a strong bias against using Blum or Euro-style door/drawer hinges/slides. ?I decided to use conventional self-closing full-extension drawer slides - in this case?Accuride 3832C ?18” Full Extension Self-Close Slides. ? As you will see in the descriptions that go with each photo, each drawer slide is mounted on a batten that can be moved up/down within the cabinet on 30mm mounting centers. ?The batten has a slot at each end that registers with a shelf pin installed in shelf-pin holes in the cabinet sides near the front and back of the cabinet. ?These pins establish the height and level-alignment of the drawer slide, and also block-out the slides so that they clear the doors open at 95°. ?Each slide & batten is secured in place with a flat head machine screw into threaded inserts which are installed on both sides of the cabinet, again on 30mm centers but above the level of the shelf pins. ?Check out the details at the link above.
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 2 (2).jpeg>
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 5 (1).jpeg>
Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
An inexpensive, off the shelf, adjustable system has been available for a decade or more.?
Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 6, 2022, at 7:15 AM, Terence via groups.io <terencewoolston@...> wrote:
? David: ?Nicely done on the cherry cabinet. ?Terry
Glen, have a look at the adjustable shelf pull-out system I came up with for a client. ??
The goal here was to have adjustable height pull-out shelves behind doors that are hung with butt hinges. ?The client insisted that the shelves pull out full extension with the doors only open to 95°. ?On this job, the client had a strong bias against using Blum or Euro-style door/drawer hinges/slides. ?I decided to use conventional self-closing full-extension drawer slides - in this case?Accuride 3832C ?18” Full Extension Self-Close Slides. ? As you will see in the descriptions that go with each photo, each drawer slide is mounted on a batten that can be moved up/down within the cabinet on 30mm mounting centers. ?The batten has a slot at each end that registers with a shelf pin installed in shelf-pin holes in the cabinet sides near the front and back of the cabinet. ?These pins establish the height and level-alignment of the drawer slide, and also block-out the slides so that they clear the doors open at 95°. ?Each slide & batten is secured in place with a flat head machine screw into threaded inserts which are installed on both sides of the cabinet, again on 30mm centers but above the level of the shelf pins. ?Check out the details at the link above.
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 2 (2).jpeg>
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 5 (1).jpeg>
Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
David: ?Nicely done on the cherry cabinet. ?Terry
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Glen, have a look at the adjustable shelf pull-out system I came up with for a client. ??
The goal here was to have adjustable height pull-out shelves behind doors that are hung with butt hinges. ?The client insisted that the shelves pull out full extension with the doors only open to 95°. ?On this job, the client had a strong bias against using Blum or Euro-style door/drawer hinges/slides. ?I decided to use conventional self-closing full-extension drawer slides - in this case?Accuride 3832C ?18” Full Extension Self-Close Slides. ? As you will see in the descriptions that go with each photo, each drawer slide is mounted on a batten that can be moved up/down within the cabinet on 30mm mounting centers. ?The batten has a slot at each end that registers with a shelf pin installed in shelf-pin holes in the cabinet sides near the front and back of the cabinet. ?These pins establish the height and level-alignment of the drawer slide, and also block-out the slides so that they clear the doors open at 95°. ?Each slide & batten is secured in place with a flat head machine screw into threaded inserts which are installed on both sides of the cabinet, again on 30mm centers but above the level of the shelf pins. ?Check out the details at the link above.
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 2 (2).jpeg>
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 5 (1).jpeg>
Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: Problem with Delivery of new Felder K770S
I did forget to mention that the Pitt-Ohio driver who dropped off the HS950 didn't ask me to sign anything. Just handed me the paperwork, told me there was nothing to sign and he was gone. I'll be giving Felder logistics some feedback on that.
--
-- Measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk, cut it with a Hammer
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
No reason the design requires screws and tool other than my own paranoia. ?With the drawer/shelf installed, the slides & battens are captivated and aren’t going anywhere.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
That would work. I made the assumption that it had to be tool less as in adjusting shelves.
Imran ? Glen, have a look at the adjustable shelf pull-out system I came up with for a client. ??
The goal here was to have adjustable height pull-out shelves behind doors that are hung with butt hinges. ?The client insisted that the shelves pull out full extension with the doors only open to 95°. ?On this job, the client had a strong bias against using Blum or Euro-style door/drawer hinges/slides. ?I decided to use conventional self-closing full-extension drawer slides - in this case?Accuride 3832C ?18” Full Extension Self-Close Slides. ? As you will see in the descriptions that go with each photo, each drawer slide is mounted on a batten that can be moved up/down within the cabinet on 30mm mounting centers. ?The batten has a slot at each end that registers with a shelf pin installed in shelf-pin holes in the cabinet sides near the front and back of the cabinet. ?These pins establish the height and level-alignment of the drawer slide, and also block-out the slides so that they clear the doors open at 95°. ?Each slide & batten is secured in place with a flat head machine screw into threaded inserts which are installed on both sides of the cabinet, again on 30mm centers but above the level of the shelf pins. ?Check out the details at the link above.
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 2 (2).jpeg>
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 5 (1).jpeg>
Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
That would work. I made the assumption that it had to be tool less as in adjusting shelves.
Imran
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 6, 2022, at 12:44 AM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote: ? Glen, have a look at the adjustable shelf pull-out system I came up with for a client. ??
The goal here was to have adjustable height pull-out shelves behind doors that are hung with butt hinges. ?The client insisted that the shelves pull out full extension with the doors only open to 95°. ?On this job, the client had a strong bias against using Blum or Euro-style door/drawer hinges/slides. ?I decided to use conventional self-closing full-extension drawer slides - in this case?Accuride 3832C ?18” Full Extension Self-Close Slides. ? As you will see in the descriptions that go with each photo, each drawer slide is mounted on a batten that can be moved up/down within the cabinet on 30mm mounting centers. ?The batten has a slot at each end that registers with a shelf pin installed in shelf-pin holes in the cabinet sides near the front and back of the cabinet. ?These pins establish the height and level-alignment of the drawer slide, and also block-out the slides so that they clear the doors open at 95°. ?Each slide & batten is secured in place with a flat head machine screw into threaded inserts which are installed on both sides of the cabinet, again on 30mm centers but above the level of the shelf pins. ?Check out the details at the link above.
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 2 (2).jpeg>
<Hitachi Potential Mounting - 5 (1).jpeg>
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
Glen, have a look at the adjustable shelf pull-out system I came up with for a client. ??
The goal here was to have adjustable height pull-out shelves behind doors that are hung with butt hinges. ?The client insisted that the shelves pull out full extension with the doors only open to 95°. ?On this job, the client had a strong bias against using Blum or Euro-style door/drawer hinges/slides. ?I decided to use conventional self-closing full-extension drawer slides - in this case?Accuride 3832C ?18” Full Extension Self-Close Slides. ? As you will see in the descriptions that go with each photo, each drawer slide is mounted on a batten that can be moved up/down within the cabinet on 30mm mounting centers. ?The batten has a slot at each end that registers with a shelf pin installed in shelf-pin holes in the cabinet sides near the front and back of the cabinet. ?These pins establish the height and level-alignment of the drawer slide, and also block-out the slides so that they clear the doors open at 95°. ?Each slide & batten is secured in place with a flat head machine screw into threaded inserts which are installed on both sides of the cabinet, again on 30mm centers but above the level of the shelf pins. ?Check out the details at the link above.
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Re: Adjustable pull out trays
?Glen, ?First thought that comes to mind is having a stack of dovetail ways on the inside on each side of the lower cabinet. The width of the dovetail way should be wide enough to receive a dovetailed part that one can mount the drawer slide to. A pin/screw of sort will be required to prevent the dovetail slide to pull out.
Not as adjustable as pins but I can’t imagine that working without incorporating lateral support that would keep the runners pushed into the cabinet sides. This support will also push on the sides of the cabinet outward. I guess the drawer could itself be tight fitting to accomplish this but I am not sure if slides are designed to do so. Also, it would not be easy to relocate them because the runners would need to be held onto the sides while the drawer is inserted. Maybe I am not following this concept properly.
Imran?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jan 5, 2022, at 11:00 PM, Glen Christensen <grchris1966@...> wrote: ?Well While I am at it and until I fix my spindle..
One of the jobs I am doing now, The customer wants pull out trays in the lowers.
You remember those things we did in the 80/90 days instead of drawers.
so because I like to go on and above I would like to make them adjustable.
I am looking for ideas on doing that. I thought about a runner for the slide that pins in to the shelf support holes that I did not drill in this case, but not sure if they would stay in place when the tray is pulled out.
Any ideas, TIA
Glen
|
Larry
imran
Bill Hope
David P. Best