For my bent lamination projects - chairs, primarily - I rip on the bandsaw (using the 3/4" Trimaster blade). The full process continues, as I smooth the cut-edge on the jointer, the return to the bandsaw for the next rip. In this manner, I always have a smooth edge against the rip fence and only one surface needs smoothing prior to glue-up.
Take Care.
Mike D.
On Monday, January 24, 2022, 09:41:54 AM EST, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
In the middle of a cut on bandsaw walk away with saw running com back and finish . Try that on a table saw Designing and building for 50 years
On Jan 24, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via groups.io <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
? I rip lumber on the band saw.? Ply and sheet stock can be rippedanywhere.? I've never? heard of it closeing on the? blade. Certainly?hasn't happened to me.The advantages: Smaller Kerf, Never a care about kickback, Great DC, Ican rip thicker,? and it is faster.I eschew all those safety gizmos? that people festoon their sliders andtable saws with.? Can't stand 'em ? Never could.It as been my? experience that? Lumber whether kiln or air dried canmove. My first and only kickback was maybe 40 years ago on a cheesycraftsman TS. I was making the neck for a Guitar from English Walnut.Big piece of wood but that 0.75HP motor still manged to throw it atme.?? It was then I took to the habit of dropping wedges into the cut?on the lee side of the blade.Recently? I've been working? 2" thick Black Walnut for a 9 foot table.?It had been been sitting 5 years in a barn. It still moves.? I got allmy pieces squared jointed and planed and? got called away for a littlewhile and when I came back all the pieces had changed shape..On 1/23/22 11:58 AM, imranindiana wrote:?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?
I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.
There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.
Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?
Imran
--
Mike D.
Annapolis, MD
AD951; K700S; N4400
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In the middle of a cut on bandsaw walk away with saw running com back and finish . Try that on a table saw Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 24, 2022, at 7:54 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. via groups.io <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
? I rip lumber on the band saw.? Ply and sheet stock can be rippedanywhere.? I've never? heard of it closeing on the? blade. Certainly?hasn't happened to me.The advantages: Smaller Kerf, Never a care about kickback, Great DC, Ican rip thicker,? and it is faster.I eschew all those safety gizmos? that people festoon their sliders andtable saws with.? Can't stand 'em ? Never could.It as been my? experience that? Lumber whether kiln or air dried canmove. My first and only kickback was maybe 40 years ago on a cheesycraftsman TS. I was making the neck for a Guitar from English Walnut.Big piece of wood but that 0.75HP motor still manged to throw it atme.?? It was then I took to the habit of dropping wedges into the cut?on the lee side of the blade.Recently? I've been working? 2" thick Black Walnut for a 9 foot table.?It had been been sitting 5 years in a barn. It still moves.? I got allmy pieces squared jointed and planed and? got called away for a littlewhile and when I came back all the pieces had changed shape..On 1/23/22 11:58 AM, imranindiana wrote:?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?
I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.
There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.
Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?
Imran
|
I rip lumber on the band saw.? Ply and sheet stock can be ripped
anywhere.? I've never? heard of it closeing on the? blade. Certainly?
hasn't happened to me.
The advantages: Smaller Kerf, Never a care about kickback, Great DC, I
can rip thicker,? and it is faster.
I eschew all those safety gizmos? that people festoon their sliders and
table saws with.? Can't stand 'em ? Never could.
It as been my? experience that? Lumber whether kiln or air dried can
move. My first and only kickback was maybe 40 years ago on a cheesy
craftsman TS. I was making the neck for a Guitar from English Walnut.
Big piece of wood but that 0.75HP motor still manged to throw it at
me.?? It was then I took to the habit of dropping wedges into the cut?
on the lee side of the blade.
Recently? I've been working? 2" thick Black Walnut for a 9 foot table.?
It had been been sitting 5 years in a barn. It still moves.? I got all
my pieces squared jointed and planed and? got called away for a little
while and when I came back all the pieces had changed shape.
.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 1/23/22 11:58 AM, imranindiana wrote: ?Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?
I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.
There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.
Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?
Imran
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Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
? Here is another example for you
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On Jan 24, 2022, at 8:27 AM, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
? Wade,
Check David Best's post ().?
I did based on David Best's post using wood before. Yesterday, I modified mine to make the bottom piece replabale, also screwed the vertical 3/4" plywood into the 30mm x 30mm wood block.  
James
Hello group,
I¡¯m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence.? It¡¯s the heavier duty cross cut fence that you find on the Format saws.
Thank you,
Wade
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Thanks for the feedback. Seems it is more of a preference as the safety advantage, I think, has minimized with riving knife, slider and clamps - excluding specific cases mentioned in the OP. I do prefer lower noise of the bandsaw over the table saw. Perhaps I should look for opportunities to rip on the bandsaw.
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On Jan 23, 2022, at 12:05 PM, Jarrett Maxwell <j.a.max7@...> wrote: ? Hey Imran,?
I rip exclusively on the band saw unless I'm trying to straight line lumber. Every board goes to the jointer regardless of where I rip. The band saw never kicks back and has better dust collection since my slider doesn't have overhead dust collection.?
I've been doing it this way for about 12 years now and definitely prefer it over standard ripping at the table saw.?
Have a great day!?
Jarrett Over the years I have read here that some people prefer ripping on the bandsaw. I guess the poster may not have a slider, but I think that is a minority here. Anyhow, in case I am missing something, why would one carry out a basic rip routinely on the bandsaw when you have a slider?
I know ripping on the bandsaw is safer but I consider my slider pretty safe especially with dry lumber which most of us use most of the times. Special case of suspect wood or green wood could go to the bandsaw, fine.
There is less waste on bandsaw but in general, for me, that is not a consideration 99% of the times.
Then the obvious advantage of supporting heavy & long lumber on the slider without any extra effort. So what am I missing?
Imran
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Re: Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Wade,
Check David Best's post ().?
I did based on David Best's post using wood before. Yesterday, I modified mine to make the bottom piece replabale, also screwed the vertical 3/4" plywood into the 30mm x 30mm wood block.  
James
Hello group,
I¡¯m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence.? It¡¯s the heavier duty cross cut fence that you find on the Format saws.
Thank you,
Wade
|
Cross cut fence zero clearance insert
#k700s
Hello group,
I¡¯m just setting up my new K700S and wanted to ask about where or how to get a good zero clearance insert for the end of my cross cut fence. ?It¡¯s the heavier duty cross cut fence that you find on the Format saws.
Thank you,
Wade
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Re: Hammer A3-31 Table Flatness
#hammer
Hi Jonathan,
Thanks for your comment. Indeed I forgot the most important part... my problem is the following:
When jointing narrow stock, say 2~3 inches wide, everything works reasonably well near both edges of the tables, but in the center I get snipe. For lack of a better explanation I attribute this to the recess in the outfeed table, which is 0.25~0.3mm. I have not yet measured if this difference is consistent with the depth of the snipe. I will check this later today...
Best regards,
Michael
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Re: Cabinet Lift Recommendations
As an alternative - You can also use a lift table such as Felder Fat300 or Barth - You¡¯ll need to make a box to put between the table top and the cabinet to increse the max lift height of the table. Barth has a fine video showing exactly this?
--
Regards,
Mikkel
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Re: Hammer A3-31 Table Flatness
#hammer
On 21-1-2022 16:44, Michael Kraus via groups.io wrote: Hi all,
I have an issue with my A3-31 regarding table flatness. This seems to be a repeating topic, but I could not really find a solution. I adjusted the machine following the various tutorials and could get the tables into good alignment. However there remains an issue with table flatness, specifically that both tables are concave near the cutter head, although they are rather straight further outside. Already about 20cm away from the cutter head, the tables are reasonably flat. I filled out David Best¡®s table flatness sheet and attached it below. Caution: all values are in mm. I don't think the flatness of the table is a problem until it affects your result after jointing/planing. You don't mention why you started to investigate this. Do you get good results using the machine? Regards, Jonathan
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
I modified mine using scrap BB plywood? (as you can see some finish was left on it) today, the 1/2" plywood can be easily replaced, it is screwed into the vertical 3/4" plywood.
?  
James
On Sun, Jan 23, 2022 at 11:50 PM PK < pk@...> wrote: Just wanted to confirm that Bill's Blue sacrificial crosscut fence end does indeed work perfectly on my kappa 400 x-motion analog (for now) crosscut fence!
See attached pics!? I did need to adjust the supports for the outrigger cart so that the "splitter tongue" would not drag on the ground if left on the outrigger.
PK 
PK
PKwoodworking
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Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
there are lots of machine opinions and a lot depends on personal preference rather than what is better.? I'm a cast iron saw guy.? I like the way a cast iron bandsaw absorbs vibration yet uses a lighter upper wheel vs the new saw approach that blends a
heavy cast iron wheel with a steel frame.? The wheel compensates for the frame somewhat.? Most of the old cast iron saws that had the beef to resaw were 30 or 36".? New saws can do that at 24" although I've always liked the 28" steel saws.? Large table and
very stout frame.? Others here get very great results with a 1 carbide blade tensioned to 15000 lbs which is about the limit on a 610.? I like higher tension but it may be just that I have fast running 6700fpm blades and tend to push them hard.
I tend to buy used and larger saws are where the bargains are.? I liked the old Centauro steel saws at 24" and the ACM heavy series at 28".? They run? similar to the cast iron machines I'm used to due to mass and frame strength.? Doesn't make them better for
everyone, just for me.? I have the room for big stuff and the only machines that have disappointed me are the smaller, lighter ones so I tend to like what works for me.? In fairness I have not seen an FB in several years.? The earlier ones didn't impress me
much but Felder tends to improve with time so that impression is likely not valid any more.? Dave
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Greg Mix,?
Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experience and thoughts. I too am working in a home shop (~700 sq-ft), and while I'm not necessarily a furniture maker, I certainly perform a lot of random tasks. It seems that we have a similar assessment
of the machines, in that, other than a slightly wider rip capacity and slightly larger table, the 610 doesn't seem to be meaningfully different from the 510, other than perhaps larger, heavier wheels and greater overall mass. For my predicted needs I don't
necessarily think I'd need that, but that's why I'm asking the group and not just going forward with assumptions.?
David Kumm, can you articulate the benefits of opting for a larger saw, if the resaw capacity is generally the same (most machines in this class hover between 14"-16")? Do the larger saws just have larger rip capacity, or do the larger wheels convey other benefits?
?I know several users here have 32"+ machines, but I don't seem anything like that fitting in my current space. Given that I can't fit a 30"+ machine, is there going to be a meaningful difference between a 20" and a 24" machine??
The Laguna LT18 Resaw Master looks like a monster, accepting at 2" blade, but I just don't see myself needing that kind of capacity:??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Newest Splinter tongue design for non-DRO fences
Just wanted to confirm that Bill's Blue sacrificial crosscut fence end does indeed work perfectly on my kappa 400 x-motion analog (for now) crosscut fence! See attached pics!? I did need to adjust the supports for the outrigger cart so that the "splitter tongue" would not drag on the ground if left on the outrigger. PK   PK PKwoodworking
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Re: Kappa 550 x motion problems
I don¡¯t have the fancy linear rollers System with dissimilar materials just hard ways and hard balls in my old SCMI I occasionally wipe down my ways with this product and works great, ?i have used with fine success on Felder systems ,,wipe on wipe off method. I also use it with my band saw when cutting bars of 2.5¡±x 4¡±6061T603. Squirts a dab in the kerf and I get a lot more out of my Japanese blades. mac ,,,
Designing and building for 52 years
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On Jan 23, 2022, at 9:43 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
My question is..How do you clean it out of the bearings that are buried in the rolling table? it's not like they are exposed for easy access or cleaning
On Sunday, January 23, 2022, 07:28:41 AM PST, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:
Guess I will stop using it, wonder if maybe because I never used anything else it didn¡¯t gum up, maybe it binds or doesn¡¯t fully dissolve other previous lubricants. On Jan 22, 2022, at 8:50 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:
?
Just curious, who is Felder listening to when specifying Ballistol. I almost bought it a yr or 2 ago when it was mentioned here; can¡¯t recall for what purpose.
Imran
On Jan 22, 2022, at 8:37 PM, david@... via groups.io <david@...> wrote:
? Yes, in my case. ?The? Ballistol?collected enough of the bearing cage to be a dust magnet and began to run rough. ?I don¡¯t have the same remote start system as you have or the 550 OP. ?Mine is the older version that does not send any electrical signals through the sliding table. ?But the dust being collected on the bearing cage was causing issues within a few days, so I cleaned it all up with kerosene and denatured alcohol which was a total PITA. ?I do use a white Scotch-Brite pad () with WD-40 for routine cleaning of the slider ways as well as the telescoping support arm for the outrigger table to get the sawdust that gets pressed into the rollers out of that mechanism. ? I have not had issues (yet) i have used it 2-3 times on the slides but i wipe it completely off , Brian, David os that what you did and it still gummed up? ?Interesting, the rep said to apply with a white 3m pad. He also said denatured alcohol would work in the interim. Have others had this contact issue with the slider switch?
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Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
I had the chance to upgrade to a 610 from the Laguna 16hd I¡¯d had for 20+ years.? I really didn¡¯t know what I¡¯d been missing and find myself using a bandsaw (vs tablesaw) more and more.? The big table and heft make a big difference. ? Discussed on a different thread, I¡¯m now evaluating how to improve my ability to resaw (beyond just the blade).? Power feeding but also in/out feed support.? On the topic of multiple saws, a job I recently did gave me the excuse I¡¯d long waited for and I bought a Mafell portable (bandsaw).? Obviously a different tool but, turn it upside down on a bench (support with a piece of 4x4) and instant stationary bandsaw.? I¡¯ve used it in shop to save blade changes on the 610 and have taken it to job sites (and left jigsaw at home) more than once.? It hangs on the wall when not in use¡
On Sun, Jan 23, 2022 at 5:50 PM < tom@...> wrote: Greg Mix,?
Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experience and thoughts. I too am working in a home shop (~700 sq-ft), and while I'm not necessarily a furniture maker, I certainly perform a lot of random tasks. It seems that we have a similar assessment of the machines, in that, other than a slightly wider rip capacity and slightly larger table, the 610 doesn't seem to be meaningfully different from the 510, other than perhaps larger, heavier wheels and greater overall mass. For my predicted needs I don't necessarily think I'd need that, but that's why I'm asking the group and not just going forward with assumptions.?
David Kumm, can you articulate the benefits of opting for a larger saw, if the resaw capacity is generally the same (most machines in this class hover between 14"-16")? Do the larger saws just have larger rip capacity, or do the larger wheels convey other benefits?? I know several users here have 32"+ machines, but I don't seem anything like that fitting in my current space. Given that I can't fit a 30"+ machine, is there going to be a meaningful difference between a 20" and a 24" machine??
The Laguna LT18 Resaw Master looks like a monster, accepting at 2" blade, but I just don't see myself needing that kind of capacity:??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
Greg Mix,?
Thank you very much for taking the time to share your experience and thoughts. I too am working in a home shop (~700 sq-ft), and while I'm not necessarily a furniture maker, I certainly perform a lot of random tasks. It seems that we have a similar assessment of the machines, in that, other than a slightly wider rip capacity and slightly larger table, the 610 doesn't seem to be meaningfully different from the 510, other than perhaps larger, heavier wheels and greater overall mass. For my predicted needs I don't necessarily think I'd need that, but that's why I'm asking the group and not just going forward with assumptions.?
David Kumm, can you articulate the benefits of opting for a larger saw, if the resaw capacity is generally the same (most machines in this class hover between 14"-16")? Do the larger saws just have larger rip capacity, or do the larger wheels convey other benefits? ?I know several users here have 32"+ machines, but I don't seem anything like that fitting in my current space. Given that I can't fit a 30"+ machine, is there going to be a meaningful difference between a 20" and a 24" machine??
The Laguna LT18 Resaw Master looks like a monster, accepting at 2" blade, but I just don't see myself needing that kind of capacity:??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
|
Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
yes, you are correct...the wheel needs to be in front of blade to avoid all kinds of pinching issues. ?I wanted the feeder to be able to move the material completely through the blade and finish the cut...so I have the wheel just slightly in front of the blade.?
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Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
Maybe I should have got a Felder instead of the Laguna 24 Resaw. ?Not sure why I did not do that. ?Just a couple of observations. ?If I understand, the Felder has 2 ports, and not sure the current Laguna Bandsaws have that or just 1 port on the larger machines. ?Nice to have 2 ports, even though there is always some dust that gathers on the table. ?I do not know if the Felder has a positive stop for the tilt of the table, but the Laguna does not. ?When the table is perpendicular to the blade on this machine that has a heavy co-matic feeder and is just used for re-saw or rip cuts, at times the table wants to tilt a bit over time due to the force of the weight of the feeder. ?I know I can rig up something which would be especially easy to do if I had Metal working tools, but sure wish there was a locking stop at 90 degrees. ?
On the 1 vs 2 vs 3 bandsaws mentioned here and on another thread, I can say that I have 2. ?With the dedicated Feeder, great for ripping boards not so wide and re-saw, and I much prefer ripping on the bandsaw vs the panel saw. ?However, forget about other uses and forget about taking the feeder on and off. ?Can be done but not practical, especially if you use the heavy pneumatic feeders. ? That leaves everything else to the other bandsaw.
That everything else includes curved cuts, and straight cuts on things too wide for the other bandsaw (things more than 6 inches between the blade and feeder are too wide). ?A nice blades for ripping is not good for curved cuts and visa versa. ?One can always change blades, but it would sure be nice to have a bandsaw dedicated to each task. ?Although money is an issue, I suspect space is a bigger factor for most when deciding how many bandsaws they can have in their shops. ?
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Re: Felder bandsaws versus x
Just another solution to resawing
The Hitachi CB75F was designed to resaw- has a 2 inch plus blade
One of Australias best furniture makers used to swear buy it for
cutting our hardwoods for veneers ( about 3mm thick) which he used all
the time and even sold speciality veneers
Just another way to skin the cat
rgrds
Bob
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Re: Looking for photos of lift table workbench/assembly
That's clever what you did for the foot pedal so you don't have to drag it around when you move the cart. Dave Davies -- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
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imran
Jonathan Martens
PK
Tom Gensmer